Duerkopp Adler 550-12-12 Manuel utilisateur

Contents Page:

Preface and General Safety Notes

Part 1: Operating Instructions Cl. 550-12-12

1. Product Description

1.1 Short Description and Proper Use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.2 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.3 Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2. Operation

2.1 Threading the Needle Thread (Upper Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.2 Threading the Hook Thread (Lower Thread) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.3 Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2.4 Upper Thread Quantity for Sure Stitch Formation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2.5 Optional Equipment reinforcing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.5.1 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.5.2 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.5.3 Operating Elements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

2.5.4 Loading the reinforcement tape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2.5.5 Adjustments on the tape unwinder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2.5.6 Replacing the presser foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3. Maintenance

3.1 Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

3.2 Lubricating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

1. Product Description

1.1 Short Description and Proper Use

The DÜRKOPP ADLER 550-12-12 is a configured sewing station for

the programmed advance crimping of shoulders and sewing on of the

sleeve joining.

With the appropriate optional equipment it can also be used for

selvedges on armholes, neckholes, etc.

•The sewing station is equipped with a single needle-double chain

stitch sewing machine with differential bottom transport and foot

upper transport.

•The upper transport and forward feed dog of the differential bottom

transport work synchronized. They can be set and switched

different to the rear feed dog.

•Electro-pneumatic thread trimmer for upper and lower thread.

•Pressure foot stroke and stitch condensation at seam beginning

and seam end.

•A microprocessor control assumes the automatic multi-width

regulation with programable follow-up switching.

•The memory capacity of the controls allows the pre-programming

of 20 sewing programs including the complete graduated size sets.

Each sewing program can contain up to 13 steps per seam run.

Each step can have its own designated crimp value.

•Mirroring left-right sewing piece via the push of a button.

•Very simple programming via an operating terminal with graphic

monitor. The operating surface of the monitor can be called up in

10 languages by pushing a button.

•With a memory card program transfer to other sewing stations, as

well as program retention, can occur.

Proper Use !

The DÜRKOPP ADLER 550-12-12 may only be used for the advance

crimping of shoulders, the sewing on of sleeve joinings and, with the

appropriate optional equipment, for selvedge work with materials of

textile fibers and leather.

1.2 Optional Equipment

If the DÜRKOPP ADLER 550-12-12 is to be used for bordering of

armholes, neckholes, etc., then is must be equipped with the optional

equipment listed in chapter 2.5.2.

1.3 Technical Specification

Machine head: Class 935 - 940 - 6

Needle system: 934 SIN

Needle thickness: Nm 90

Threads: As needle and hook thread spun monofilament

sewing yarns

Stitch type: 401 double chain stitch

Number of stitches: 3200 / min (recommended number of stitches

ex works)

Stitch length: 2.5 mm for rear feed dog (fixed setting)

Transport length for forward feed dog and

transport foot adjustable up to 6 mm

Stitch condensation: 1.5 mm

Operating pressure: 6 bar

Air consumption: approx. 0.5 NL per work cycle

Nominal voltage: 1 x 220 - 240 V, 50 / 60 Hz

Dimensions: (H x W x D) 1600 x 1530 x 951 mm

2. Operation

2.1 Threading the Needle Thread (Upper thread)

Caution Risk of Injury !

Turn main switch off.

Thread the upper thread only with the machine switched off.

–Place the thread spool 1 on the thread stand.

–Guide the thread as shown through the holes and tension discs in

the thread guide plate.

–Guide the thread in order through guide plate 3, thread guide 4,

thread tension 8, thread guide 6 and thread drawing plate 7.

–Guide the thread through thread guide 13 and thread drawing lever

12.

–Guide the thread through pre-tension 9, thread guide 10 and

needle eye. Cut off the excess thread end.

2.2 Threading the Hook Thread (Lower Thread)

Caution Risk of Injury !

Turn main switch off.

Thread the lower thread only with the machine switched off.

–Place the thread spool 2 on the thread stand.

–Guide the thread as shown through the holes and tension discs in

the thread guide plate.

–Guide the thread in order through the guide plate 3, thread guide

4, thread tension 5 and lower thread guide 19.

–Feed the thread through the slot (see arrow) in the thread gutter 18.

–Remove cover plate 11 and swing holder 14 up out of its catch.

Guide the thread through thread guides 15 and thread drawing

hook 16.

Swing holder 14 back and allow to catch.

–Pull the thread through the hook 17 with a tweezers and pull tight.

Insert cover plate 11 again.

67 8

12 13

17 18 19

2.3 Thread Tension

The tension of the needle thread (upper thread) must be greater than

that of the hook thread (lower thread).

Too great thread tensions cause a puckering of the material. A too low

hook thread tension leads to missing stitches.

–Set the needle thread tension with the knurled screw 1.

–Set the hook thread tension with the knurled screw 2.

2.4 Upper Thread Quantity for Sure Stitch Formation

With elastic sewing yarns (e.g. synthetic fiber yarns or monofilament

yarns) a certain upper thread quantity must be drawn off for assured

stitch formation.

Elastic sewing threads: Non-elastic sewing threads:

Caution Risk of Injury !

Turn main switch off.

Set the thread regulator only with the machine switched off.

Elastic sewing threads:

–Turn the handwheel until the thread drawing lever 5 is in its lowest

position.

–Loosen screws 3.

–Set the thread regulator 4.

The thread hole in the thread drawing lever 5 must be visible

below the thread regulator 4.

–Tighten screws 3 again.

–Guide the needle thread down over the forward bow of the thread

regulator 4.

Non-elastic sewing threads (e.g. cotton):

–Turn the handwheel until the thread drawing lever 5 is in its lowest

position.

–Loosen screws 3.

–Set the thread regulator.

The thread hole in the thread drawing lover 5 must be visible

above the thread regulator 4.

–Tighten screws 3 again.

–Guide the needle thread down in front of the forward bow of the

thread regulator 4.

2.5 Optional Equipment reinforcing

2.5.1 General With the optional reinforcing equipment the cut edge of the material

is secured (reinforced) by attaching tape .

The tape feeder automatically feeds the reinforcement tape during

sewing.

The tape unwinder enables tension-free attaching of the reinforcement

tape.

After a programmed number of stitches the tape scissors cut the

reinforcement tape within the seam.

Thus, the reinforcement tape does not jut out at the material edges.

Exchangeable presser feet enable the use of 3 different reinforcement

tape widths.

Reinforcing can be performed either during automatic operation or

manual operation.

2.5.2 Optional equipment Z129 3202Tape unwinder for tension-free feeding of reinforcement ta-

pes

Z129 3002Tape feeder and cutter for automatic feeding and cutting the

reinforcement tape

940 10010Feeding foot specifically for reinforcing operations

Depending on the tape width:

940 10002Presser foot with guide worm for 1.5-mm-wide reinforce-

ment tape

940 10022Presser foot with guide worm for 2-mm-wide reinforcement

tape

940 10042Presser foot with guide worm for 3-mm-wide reinforcement

tape

This also requires:

940 10050Tape guide at the tape feeder for 3-mm-wide reinforcement

tape

2.5.3 Operating elements

The tape feeder features 3 switches (see figure Loading the

reinforcement tape).

The switch functions are listed in the table below.

Switch Setting Function

loading Threading and positioning the

reinforcement tape.

on Operation setting when sewingwith automatic

operation (automatic feeding of the

reinforcement tape).

The indicator lamp is switched on.

off The tape feeder is switched off.

Manual feeding of the reinforcement tape.

Manual cutting of the reinforcement tape.

2.5.4 Loading the reinforcement tape

–Load the reinforcement tape as shown in the figure Loading the

reinforcement tape.

While loading make sure not to twist the reinforcement tape.

–Set the switch Aat "loading".

–Introduce the reinforcement tape into guide B.

The reinforcement tape is transported via the guide into the

funnel C.

–Pull the reinforcement tape upward out of the funnel C using a pair

of tweezers.

–Set the switch Aat "on" (centre position).

The reinforcement tape is automatically cut and clamped above

the funnel.

It is now in its feeding position.

ATTENTION !

Always be sure to remove the cut pieces of the reinforcement tape

from the funnel.

If the cut pieces are not removed, they will hinder the automatic

feeding of the reinforcement tape !

Remove the cut pieces using a pair of tweezers or by sewing with air

jet.

–The tape feeder is ready for sewing.

2.5.5 Adjustments on the tape unwinder

The tape unwinder enables tension-free attaching of the reinforcement

tape.

The tape unwinder rollers draw a defined length of reinforcement tape

from the tape roll. This drawn reinforcement tape is then attached.

The speed and feeding period of the tape unwinder rollers must

be adjusted to each other such that even at maximum sewing

speed and with maximum seam length the reinforcement tape is

never drawn directly from the tape roll.

Adjusting elements

Two potentiometers are at the tape unwinder (see figure Loading the

reinforcement tape).

Potentiometer Function

Setting the speed

Setting the fee-

ding period

The potentiometer serves to set

the speed of the tape unwinder

rollers.

The potentiometer serves to set

the feeding period (operating

period) of the tape unwinder

rollers.

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