FuzzDog RockBox Manuel utilisateur

Rock Box

Full-on Rock Distortion

with a nice post-Boost

PedalParts.co.uk

chematic + BOM

R1 82R

R2 1M

R3 1M

R4 1M

R5 5K1

R6 470K

R7 1M

R8 1M

R9 100R 270R

R10 5K1

R11 1M 510K*

R12 1M

R13 330R 360R

R14 5K1

R15 47K

R16 82K

R17 10K

R18 10K

R22 1M

R23 1M

R24 5K1

R26 47K

R27 2K2

R28 2K2

C1 47u

C2 100n

C3 22n 10n

C4 470p

C5 22n 10n

C6 1u

C7 10n 100n

C8 22n

C9 1n 2n2

C10 1n empty

C11 1n 2n2

C12 1n empty

C13 100n

C14 10u

Q1-4 B 170

D1 1N4001

D2 9.1v zener

D3 9.1v zener

GAIN 5KC

TONE 100KB

LEVEL 100KB

BOO T 5KC

W1-2 3PDT

Main BOM is JTM45 version.

Tweaks for ‘59 Bassman in blue.

*520K in original. 510K is fine.

As the GAIN and BOOST controls on this babe are actually

Boner Boost circuits, they will produce a crackle when you

adjust them. This is normal. Panic not.

At full crank this circuit puts out a OT of signal, so

always start off with the ‘BOOST’ turned right back.

Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush

in the box.

You MUST use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diodes and the

BS170s when soldering. They aren’t keen on heat. Any more than 3-4

seconds of iron and they’re toast.

A the components mount on the top side of the board. It’s also

recommended that all wires go this side, thus cutting down the risk of

anything shorting on the lid of the enclosure when finished.

EDs - leave these out until you’re boxing it all up - see later.

1 2 3

POT WIRING

Give yourself enough wire to be able to manoeuvre things around in the box

without ending up with spaghetti junction in there. 35-40mm is plenty.

JACK and DC WIRING

I’d recommend longer wires until the circuit has been tested. Then you can

detach them, put everything in place in the box, then make them as short as

possible (without tension) in the final boxing up.

FOOTSWITCHES

The holes for the footswitch tags have been made deliberately a little bigger

than required so there’s a bit of slack for placement. If you’ve ordered a

pre-drilled enclosure the holes for the footswitches are 1mm bigger than

would normally be supplied. Wiggle room is always good.

To attach the footswtiches to the board, first put them in place in the

enclosure. Don’t fully tighten them - just enough to hold them in place.

Now place the PCB down on top of the footswitches and manouevre until

you’re happy with placement. Now solder them in. Get plenty of solder in

there. It isn’t necessary to completely fill the holes but it won’t harm to be

sure of a good connection.

WIRING FOR TESTING

Connect everything up but the EDs.

Ensure your power supply is 9V Tip Negative, or connect up a battery for

now. If connecting a battery, solder long lengths of wire to the +V and GND

pads on the PCB, then attach the battery to the other end of these. This

saves desolding stuff from the board, which is a pain.

JACK SOCKETS DC SOCKET

GND

SIGNA

Ignore the third tag

- you only need that

if wiring up for

battery.

SIGNA is JACK IN and

JACK OUT on the PCB.

Each socket has its own

GND connection

conveniently placed.

Plug in. Go! Do remember to turn all the knobs fully counterclockwise

before you start. This thing kicks out some serious volume.

If it works, crack on and get it in the box. If not, troubleshoot. Check you

have everything in the right place and reflow any poor joints.

BOXING UP

Here’s how it’ll look when boxed up. Notice the two outer pots are turned

inwards 90°. This keeps them well clear of the jacks.

What about my EDs?

Pre-drilled enclosures are supplied with 3mm holes for the EDs, rather than

larger ones that require a mounting bezel. Why? Because you can hold the ED

securely in place with the PCB. When you come to box up your lovely new circuit,

get the pots in place first. Then the jacks. Now, slide your EDs all the way into

the PCB (long leg to square pad) and bend the legs ever so slightly so they don’t

fall out. Alternatively put a little bluetac on there. Now locate your footswitches

into place and tighten.

When everything is secure, let

your EDs slide down into the

holes - use some needle-nosed

pliers or skinny fingers to

position them fully in the holes.

Once in place, solder.

Those little lights aren’t

going anywhere!

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

IN L

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

OUT

BOARD

GND

ROCK BOOST

BOARD

IN A

BOARD

OUT A

BOARD

IN B

BOARD

OUT B

BOARD

LED A

BOARD

LED B

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip Negative

/ Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc), and you can

safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

PedalParts.co.uk

NOTE: Effect order is Distortion > Boost.

Wow, look at that. You can use either circuit

on its own. Click in the BOOST section and

you’re rockin’ a Boner Boost. NICE!

This is how the whole shebang is connected within the PCB traces.

NOTE: This is just for illustration purposes - none of this wiring needs to be done!

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