FuzzDog BSIAB2 Manuel utilisateur

BSIAB2

Brown ound In A Box -

high gain distortion fun

PedalParts.co.uk

chematic

BOM

R1 1M

R2 390R

R3 680R

R4 1M

R5 1M

R6 470K

R7 1M

R8 1M

R9 120R

R10 82K

R11 5K6

R12 82K

R13 47K

R14 10K

R15 10K

R16 2K2 (CLR)

C1 250p

C2 220n

C3 1u

C4 68n

C5 22n

C6 470p

C7 150p

C8 100n

C9 22n

C10 100n

C11 22n

C12 2n2

C13 1u elec

C14 2n2

C15 100u elec

D1 1N4148

Q1 2N5457

Q2 2N5457

Q3 J201

Q4 J201

Q5 2N5457

DRIVE 500KA

TONE 100KB

VOL 100KA

TRIM 100K*

*Original spec is 100K - I supply 47K. Much easier to tweak the sweet spot.

Wiring shown overleaf will disconnect the battery when you remove

the jack plug from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.

Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush in the box.

You should use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diode and

transistors when soldering. They aren’t keen on heat. Any more

than 3-4 seconds of iron and they’re toast.

I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting Resistor for the LED into the

board for your pleasure.

Once its all built and hooked up to test (see next page), adjust the

trimmer. You’re aiming to have the voltage at the Drain of Q5 at

around 50% of the supply voltage. Note - the diode will drop the

voltage going to the circuit by around 1V.

So.. get your multimeter and hook it up to a convenient GND point.

Measure the voltage at the negative side of D1 (A). Now, measure

the voltage at the Drain of Q5 (D) and adjust the trimmer until you

hit around 50% of (A)’s voltage. That’s your starting point. Now fine

tune by ear until its perfect for you.

1 2 3

Test the board!

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before

starting on the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down

troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this

stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what?

You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections

for 9V, GND, IN and OUT. Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as

shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a

small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the

9V wire, same method. lug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.

At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get

it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

YRET

NI UO TU

Wire it up

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the

board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the

board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / Sleeve ositive. That’s the same as your standard pedals

(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

Now... CCCRAAAAAANNNNGGGGGGG!

edal arts.co.uk

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

Table des matières

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