FuzzDog Animatron Manuel utilisateur

Animatron

Muff-based bass fuzz

with germanium growl

No reproduction permitted without the express written

Schematic + BOM

R1 1M

R2 100K

R3 100K

R4 680K

R5 4K7

R6 4K7

R7 470K

R8 33K

R9 100K

R10 470R

R11 470K

R12 10K

R13 10K

R14 100K

R15 100R

R16 470K

R17 10K

R18 10K

R19 100K

R20 100R

R21 470K

R22 15K

R23 100K

R24 100K

R25 10K

R26 470K

R27 2K2

R28 12K

R30 39K

R31 100K

C1 10n

C2 6n8

C3 470p

C4 470p

C5 100u

C6 470p

C7 100n

C8 100n

C9 10n

C10 100n

C11 470n

C12 470n

C13 2u2

C14 10u

C15 10u

C16 10u

C17 4n7

C18 1u‡

D1-4 1N4148

Q1-5 C2240*

Q6 NPN Ge**

Q7 PNP Ge**

DIST 100KA Dual Gang

TONE 100KB

VOL 100KB

T1 22K trimmer***

SW1 DPDT ON-ON

*The original circuit uses

C2240, but you could try

other B T. The circuit is

basically a Big Muff Pi.

C2240 have a non-

standard pin-out so there

are extra pads on the PCB

to accomodate those and

standard CBE cans. See

later in this document for

more info on that.

**NTE102/3 in the

original, but you can try

other germaniums. We

supply AC128/AC176

which work well. You

could replace these with

silicon if you prefer.

***10K in original but

we’ve made it bigger to

accommodate a wider

range of germaniums.

‡Yes, C18 is shown as

470n in the cover pic.

We were all out of 1u

when we built it.

The power and signal pads on the PCB conform

to the FuzzDog Direct Connection format, so can

be paired with the appropriate daughterboard for

quick and easy offboard wiring. Check the

separate daughterboard document for details.

Be very careful when soldering the diodes and

transistors. They’re very sensitive to heat. You

should use some kind of heat sink (crocodile clip

or reverse action tweezers) on each leg as you

solder them. Keep exposure to heat to a

minimum (under 2 seconds).

Snap the small metal tag off the pots so they can

be mounted flush in the box.

Positive (anode) legs of the electrolytic caps go to

the square pads. C5 can be bent back over the

adjacent resistors to save on height - see the

cover image.

Negative (cathode) legs of the diodes go to the

square pads.

You should solder all other board-mounted

components before you solder the pots. Once

they’re in place you’ll have no access to much of

the board. Make sure your pots all line up nicely.

The best way to do that is to solder a single pin of

each pot in place then melt and adjust if

necessary before soldering in the other two pins.

If your pots don’t have protective plastic jackets

ensure you leave a decent gap between the pot

body and the PCB otherwise you risk shorting out

the circuit.

Same goes for the toggle switch. Use your

enclosure as a guide for positioning them to

ensure they line up properly. Solder one lug, then

melt it and adjust to get it straight before

soldering any others.

Trimmer T1 is used to bias Q6-7. There’s no ‘right’

setting, just do it by ear until it sounds sweet

TRANSISTOR ORIENTATION

Standard EBC transistors

such as 2N5088 orientate

like this:

SMALL HACK-ETTE

You need to jumper two of the trimmer pads

together. The original schematic shows T1 as a

voltage divider which is unlikely to work except for

a very small selection of Q6-7 pairings.

umpering pins 1+2 changes the configuration so

thta C2 is coming straight from the emitter of Q7

which makes much more sense. umper shown

in red above and below.

C2240 are ECB, so should be

placed like this:

Test the board!

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES will tro bleshooting help

be offered if yo have skipped this stage. No exceptions.

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on the switch and

LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long run. If the circuit works at this

stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a

mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections for 9V, GND, IN and OUT.

Connect IN and OUT to the jacks as shown. Connect all the GNDs together (twist them up

and add a small amount of solder to tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire,

same method. Plug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man. At least you know the

problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it working, THEN worry about the switch etc.

BATTERY

IN OUT

Your nice, new circuit board

INCLUDING WIRED POTS!!!!

IN 9V GND OUT

Wiring shown above will disconnect the battery when you remove the jack plug

from the input, and also when a DC plug is inserted.

The Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the board. You

can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the board, another to

the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OUT jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

This circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be Tip

Negative / Sleeve Positive. That’s the same as your standard pedals (Boss etc),

and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

Wire it up (if using a daughterboard please refer to the relevant document)

This template is a rough guide only. You should ensure correct marking of your

enclosure before drilling. You use this template at your own risk.

Pedal Parts Ltd can accept no responsibility for incorrect drilling of enclosures.

FuzzDog.co.uk

Drilling template

Hammond 1590B

60 x 111 x 31mm

It’s a good idea to drill the pot and

toggle switch holes 1mm bigger i

you’re board-mounting them.

Wiggle room = good!

Recommended drill sizes:

Pots 7mm

Jacks 10mm

Footswitch 12mm

DC Socket 12mm

Toggle switch 6mm

32mm

15mm

16mm

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