White CLASSMATE 1570 Manuel utilisateur

-I

(1)

(I)

I-I

OUR

VALUED CUSTOMER...

You

are

now

the owner

new

zig

zag

sewing

machine, the most

versatile

type

its

kind you

can

possess,

Buttonholes,

monogramming,

overcasting

and

creative

embroidery

are

done

with

ease

and

speed.

aid

you

obtaining

the greatest

performance

from

your

new

sewing

machine,

this

book

its

care

and

use has

been

written

for

you.

Read

the

instructions

carefully,

thorough understanding

your

machine

will

reward

you

with many

hours

trouble4ree

creative

sewing.

This

manual

divided

into

seven

separate

sections.

Each

section

deals

with

one

special

portion

your

sewing

machine.

For

example:

“GETTING

READY

SEW”

explains the

basic

functions’of

your

machine; how

thread

your

machine,

wind

bobbins,

etc.

“STRAiGHT

AND

ZIG

ZAG”

explains

the

uses

straight

sewing,

zig

zag

stitches

and use

the built

utility

stitches.

“TWIN

NEEDLE SEWING”

explains how

use

twin

needle

and

the

application

twin

needle

sewing.

“BUTTONHOLES”

explains

four

different

styles

buttonholes.

“STRETCH

UTILITY

STITCHES” explains

the

use

elastic

triple

stretch stitches.

“FEATURES

AND

PARTS” explains many parts

and

features

your

machine.

“CARE

YOUR

MACHINE”

explains

maintenance,

oiling,

minor

problems

and

solutions,

alphabetical

index.

Also

included

the

front

portion

this manual

table

contents

and glossary

terms to

further

aid

you

enjoy

your

sewing

machine.

SEWING

MACHINE

Record

space

provided

below

the

Serial

No.

and

Model

No.

this

appliance.

The

Serial

No.

located

Rear

arm.

The

Model

No.

located

Rear

am,

Serial

No.

_______________________

Model

No.

Retain these

numbers

for

future

reference.

CONTENTS

Introduction/Contents

Cover

page

Glossary

sewing

machine

1.6

GETTING

READY

SEW

Using

the

foot

control

Connect

the

foot

control

wires

use

the

toot

pedal

Converting

tree-arm

sewing

Winding

the bobbin

Threading of

top thread

Twin

needle

upper

threading

Lower

threading

Inserting

bobbin

Picking-up lower

bobbin thread

CONTROLS

Top

tension

control

Checking

tensions

Reverse

stitch

control

OTHER ADJUSTMENTS

MACHINE

SEWING

Presser

foot

pressure

regulator

Darning

plate

Changing

the

needle

Fabric,

thread

and

needle

chart

Free-Arm

sewing

Pattern

setting

Presser

feet

Changing

toot

Starting

sew

STRAIGHT

AND

ZIGZAG

APPLICATIONS

THE

STRAIGHT

STITCH

Seams

Basting/topstitching

Darning

Elastic

thread shining

Holding

the

fabric

Turning corners

Curved

seams 25

Ending

seam/removal

fabric

APPLICATIONS

OF THE

ZIGZAG STITCH

Overcasting

Seeming

knits

Sewing on

buttons

Forming

thread

shank

button

Satin

stitching

Tapering/creative

embroidery

Manual

embroidery

designs 28

Free

hand

monogrammirig

Applique

Gathering

over

cord

APPLICATIONS

THE

MULTIPLE STITCH ZIGZAG

Overcasting 30

Patching

Mending

tear

instant

darning

Lace

applications

Flutter

hem 32

Elastic

application

Understitching

facings

Decorative

effects

APPLICATIONS

THE

BLIND

HEM

STITCH

Blind

hemming

Shell

tuck

Decorative

effects

Topstitching elfects

Shell

tuck

APPLICATIONS

THE

INTERLOCK

Lingerie

seam

Inserting

lace

TWIN

NEEDLE

SEWING

Twin

needle

upper

threading

Twin needle

sewing

effects

Decorative

tucks

designs 38

Tucks 38

BUTTONHOLES

Buttonholes

Preparation

Built-in

buttonholer

Turn-around

buttonholes

Corded

buttonholes

Stretch

buttonholes

STRETCH UTILITY

STITCHES

APPLICATIONS

OF THE

STRAIGHT

TRIPLE STRETCH

STITCHES

Seams

Topstitching (stretch

stitches)

APPLICATION

THE RICK-RACK

TopstitchinglRick-rack

Tapering/Rick-rack 45

APPLICATION

STRETCH OVERLOCK

APPLICATIONS

SMOCKING

STITCH

Seaming

smocking

stitch

Elastic

thread

shirning

APPLICATIONS

DOUBLE

OVERLOCK

STITCH

Seaming

double

overlock

stitch

Hemstitching

effect

Topstitching

double

overlock

APPLICATIONS

ULTRA

STRETCH

Seaming

ultra

stretch

FEATURES-f-PARTS+ACCESSORIES

Accessories

KNOWING

YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Front

view

Back view

The

all

purpose

foot

The

button

sewing

foot

The

buttonhole

foot

Changing

foot

Buttonhole

foot

Button

sewing

foot

Cloth

guide

Zipper

sewing

foot

lnisertcording

The

Ouilting

guide

Buttonhole

cutter

Straight

stitch

foot

CARE OF

YOUR MACHINE

Maintenance

59-60

Take

out

tangled

thread

bobbin

case

Trouble

chart

GLOSSARY

SEWING

MACHINE TERMS

ACCESSORY

BOX

For

storage

extra

feet,

needles,

bobbins

and

accessories.

BOBBIN CASE

Holds

thread

bobbin

case and

balances

TENSION

SPRING

upper

and

lower

tension

threads.

BOBBIN

TENSION

SCREW

adlust

the tension

bobbn

thread

BOBBIN

WINDING

For

winding

bobbin

with

thread.

SPINDLE

BOBBIN

WINDING

STOP

For

automatically

stopping

bobbin

full

capacity

CABINET

Used

mount

sewing

machine

furniture;

also

storage

area

to’

machine.

FACE

COVER Snaps

open

for

changing

the

bulb

Also

provides

easy access

needle and

presser

bar assembly

for

oiling.

FEED

DOG

For

feeding

material

through

machine

FOOT

CONTROL

For

activating power

the

machine,

amount

pressure

exerted

the

foot

pedal

controls

the

speed;

attached

wires

plug

into

machine

and

wall

socket.

HANDWHEEL

For

turning

mechanism

hand

bring

needle

and

take

hgh

position.

This

wheel

turns

toward

operator.

LIGHT

SWITCH On

face

cover, back

portion;

turn

off

NEEDLES

Used

form

lock

stitch

your

machine,

variations

are

many;

example:

sharp,

ball,

leather,

etc

NEEDLE

CLAMP

For

attaching

the

needle

the

lower

end

the

needle

bar,

NEEDLE

CLAMP

THUMB SCREW

For

fastening

needle

into

needle clamp,

NEEDLE PLATE

For

supporting

material when

sewing. This

plate

marked

for

several

hem

sizes

PORTABLE

CASE

PRESSER

BAR

PRESSER

FOOT

PRESSER

FOOT

LIFTER

PRESSER

FOOT

THUMB

SCREW

RACE

REVERSE

STITCH

BUTTON

receptacle

store

sewn

machine when

not

use.

Controls the

pressure

exerted

various

materials

being

sewn.

When

lowered

onto

material

holds

the

material

against

the

feed dog.

For raising

the

lowering

the

presser

bar

and

presser

foot.

When

raised,

the

tension

released and

when lowered,

the tension

engaged

For

fastening

presser

foot

and

attachments

the

presser bar.

Groove

which

shuttle

turns.

For

changing

from

forward

reverse

directiun,

button

must

held

down

fur

continuous

reverse

sewing.

SHUTTLE For

forming

lock

stitch.

Access

bobbin

case

and

bobbin.

Located under

the

face

cover

change

the

light

bulb.

One for

sewing

one

for

winding

bohbin,

both

for sewing

with two

threads

and twin

needle.

For

changing

the

length

stitch

either

forward

and

reverse

direction

For disengaging

the

handwheel

from

mechanism when

winding the

bobbin

without

the needle

moving

and

down.

For

drawing

the

top thread

form

tight

stitch.

For

cutting

excess

thread,

located

the

back

and

into

the

presser

bar

Holds

thread taut

for

even

winding.

Guides

thread

from

spool

pins

the

tension.

Two

needles with

one

thank

making

possible to

sew

with

two

top

threads.

Use

separately

for

single

two

thread

sewing.

Used

to change

upper

tension numbered

from

“0”

“9”.

SLIDE

PLATE

SOCKET

SPOOL PINS

IRETRACTABLEi

STITCH LENGTH

DIAL

STOP MOTION

KNOB

TAKE

LEVER

THREAD

CUTTER

THREAD

GUIDE FOR

BOBBIN

WINDING

THREAD

GUIDE FOR

UPPER

THREADING

TWIN

NEEDLES

UPPER

THREAD

TENSION

UPPER

THREAD

TENSION

DIAL

ZIGZAG

WIDTH

CONTROL

For

setting

width

zigzag

stitching.

—2—

GLOSSARY

SEWING

TERMS

APPLIQUE

Applying

material

with

specific

design

onto

another

material

using

straight

zigzag

stitch.

BASTING

sew

with

temporary

stitch

that

can

removed

with

ease.

This

possible

using

the

longest

straight

stitch,

setting

your

top

tension

“0”

and

sewing

line

stitches.

The

top

stitch

will

loose

and

the

bottom

stitch tight;

this

allows

you

able

remove

the

lower

thread

pulling,

may

necessary to

cut

the

lower

thread

different

points

for easier removal.

BLIND

HEM

variation

of the

zigzag

stitch

used

finish

hem

where you

can

control

the

holding

stitch.

BUTTONHOLE

means

strengthening

the

sides

hole

cloth

zigzag

stitch to

hold

button.

COUCHING

fasten down

another

material,

ribbon,

ace,

with

fine

zigzag

stitch.

DARNING

method

repairing

rip

sear by

stitching

over

the

flaw.

EMBROIDERY To

decorate

with

stitching,

using

either

straight

zigzag

stitch.

FACING

The

addition

another

piece

material

increase

the

body

or edge

material.

GATHERING

Forming

zigzag

stitch

over

cord, elattic,

or any

separate material.

Another

term

for

shirring.

HEM

fold,

sewn

down

an edge

cloth.

MONOGRAMMING

Using

straight stitch

for

tracery

or zigzag

stitching to

form

design.

OVERCASTING

The

use of

zigzag

stitch

finish

seam

edge

cloth,

prevent the

ravelling

loose

weave

cloth.

OVER

LOCK

STRETCH)

triple

stretch

pattern

used

finish

seams

stretch

buttonholes.

PATCHING Same

darning but

covering

the

hole

with

piece

cloth.

PICOT

STITCH

triple stretch

pattern

used similar

tricot

stretch

giving

hand

stitch effect.

QUI

LTING

Joining

several

cloths

together

form

bulk cover for beds,

furniture

clothing.

RICK

RACK

triple

stretch

pattern

using

basic

zigzag

give

RICK

RACK

effect.

—3--

SATIN STITCH

solid

tine

zig

zag

stitching formed

zigzag

stitch

sewn

very close

together.

SEAM

line

formed

when

sewing

two

pieces

material

together.

SHELL

TUCK

The

use

the

zigzag

variation

the

zigzag

stitch

give

shell

effect

the

edge

material.

SHIRRING To

gather cloth

by drawing

two

or more

threads together.

STRAIGHT

STITCH

forward

reverse

single

line

of sewing

which

may vary

from

stitches

per

inch

“0”

stitches.

STRETCH BUTTONHOLE

buttonhole

made

with

stretch

stitch

pattern

used

double knits,

sweaters,

etc.

STRETCH

STITCH

combination

stitches formed

forward and backward

motion

which

allows

the

stitches to

flex

and

not

break,

used

stretch

materials,

double

knits,

tricot,

lingerie,

etc.

TAPERING

line

zigzag

sewing

varying

from

narrow

wide

range.

THREAD

SHANK

space

composed

thrçad

between

the

button

and

cloth

engage

button

buttonhole

bulky

material.

TOPSTITCHING

line

series

lines

straight

zigzag

sewing

which

enhances

border

gwlng

the

stitching

raised

effect.

TRICOT

STITCH

triple

stretch

pattern

used

finish

delicate

fabrics

lace.

TRIPLE STRETCH

term

used

for

stretch

patterns,

pattern

formed

forward,

sideward

and

backward

combination

stitches.

ULTRA

STRETCH

triple stretch

pattern

which

excellent

make

seams

bulk

materials

sweater

and

swimwear,

UNDERSTITCHING

Using

variation

the

zig

zag

stitch to

finish

hem or seam

that

hidden.

VARIEGATED THREAD

single

strand

thread

with

varying

colors,

used

for

decorative effect.

ZIGZAG

term

which

describes

the

side

motion

the

needle which

creates

width

straight

sewing.

—.4—

THIS

INSTRUCTION

MANUAL

DESIGNED

GIVE

BASIC

INFORMATION,

UNDERSTAND

THE

FUNCTIONS

SEWING

MACHINE,

THREAD,

AND

NEEDLES.

For

sewing

normal

seam,

the

material

must

fed

regularly

for

the

formation

each

stitch.

The

feed

dog

does

the

conveying,

together

with the

presser

bar

which

presser

foot

has

been

fastened.

Feed

Dog

The task

the

feed

dog

move

the

cloth

on for

certain distance

after

each

stitch.

This

distance,

called

stitch

length,

can

accurately

adjusted

means

lever

knob,

which

acts

the

feed

mechanism.

The

feed

dog

equipped

with

small,

sharp

teeth.

Fig.

shows the

most common

types

feed

dogs.

Fig.

thread

left-twist

if,

when

held

horizontally,

the

individual

strands

slant

the

left

from

bottom

top.

thread

right-twist

if,

when

held

horizontally,

the

individual

strands

slant

the

right

from

bottom

top.

Fig.

The

“L”

shaped

feed

dog

the

oldest type

and

common

sewing

machines

with vibrating

shuttles.

It has

the

disadvantage

that

does

not

feed

all

kinds

work,

such

ii.

collar

points,

evenly.

The

“H”

shaped

feed

dog,

with

row

teeth

either

side

the

needle

plate

hole,

improve

ment

the

former,

but

does

not

feed

narrow

strips

hems

well.

The “M”

and

“0”

shaped

feed dogs

guarantee the

uniform

feed

any kind

work

material.

Twist

the

Thread

Depending

the

kind

shuttle

used,

the

twist

the

thread

certain

importance.

thread

with

right-hand

twist

used,

will

unravel

slightly, when

the

stitch

formed,

due

the

direction

rotation

the

shuttle.

This

naturally

reduces

the

tensile

strength

the

thread.

For

sewing,

the

question,

whether

left-

right-

hand

twist

used,

lesser

importance.

strongly

recommended,

however,

use

left-twist

thread

for

darning

with

fine

thread.

The

difference

between

the

two

kinds

twist

best

determined

the

following

manner:

tion.

The

Needle:

Aim:

become

acquainted

with

the

structure

the

sewing

machine

needle

detail,

later

able

understand

better

how

the

stitch

formed. Different

systems

and

sizes.

has

already

been

mentioned,

needles

have

existed

since

the

most

ancient

times.

They

were made

thorns,

horn,

fish-bones,

gold

and

ivory.

The

first

steel rteedles

were

made

Germany.

The

needle

with

the

eye

near

the

point

became more

widely

used

with

the

introduction

the

Iockstitch

sewing

machine. At

first,

each

manufacturer

used

needle

which

could

only

used

his

own

models.

The

differ

ent

kinds

needles

have

since

been

standardized

International

Agreement,

Needle

Systems

There exist

approximately

2000

rliffer

ent

types

of needles,

amongst

which

system

705

(U.S.A.:

style

the

most

frequently

used

for

household

sewing

machines.

This

needle

also

used

for

the

ELNA!

WHITE

and

described

below

detail:

eye

body

short

groove

point 0)

shaft

long

groove

flat

Parts

Necessary

for

Forming

Stitch

-—

Stitch

Forma

Fig. 3

—5—

THE

TENSION

What

happens

now,

the

upper

tension

too weak?

the

moment

the

lower

thread

should

drawn from

the

bobbin

finish

the

stitch,

its

resistance becomes

too

strong

relation

the

upper

tension.

Thus

the

upper

thread

unwound

before

the

lower

thread

drawn

into

the

material.

The

thread

take-up

lever

longer

meets

with enough

resistance

from

the

upper

tension

enable

the

thread

cross

the material

and

the

hewer

thread

remains

tretched

(Fig.

C).

What

happens,

the

upper

tension

too

tight?

At the

moment

the

lower

thread should

drawn from

the

bobbin

finish

the

stitch,

its

resistance

too

weak

relation

the

upper

tension.

The lower

thread

thus

winds

too

freely and

does

not

offer

enough

resistance

the

pull

the

upper thread.

The

upper

thread withdraws

entirely

from

the

material

and

remains

stretched

top

it.

whilst

the

lower

thread

crosses

right

through

(Fig.

8).

most

important

that

the

functioning

the

upper

tension

and how

should

adjusted

explained

detail

the

user.

Fig.

starts

showing

perfect

seam,

then

skipped

stitch

(A)

and then

broken

thread

(B).

Skipped

stitches

are

caused

when,

for

one

reason

another,

the

point

the

hook

does

not

catch

the

loop

the

upper

thread.

all

lock-stitch

machines,

regardless

what

shuttle

systems

they

may

have,

the

upper

thread

has to

form

the

loop

explained

detail

below.

When

threaded

needle

pierces

the

material,

the

thread

will

slip

into

the

two

grooves

the needle,

order

thus

offer

the least

resistance

when

passing

through

the

material.

However,

this

resistance

increases

the

side

the

short

groove,

the

latter

disappears

the

materi

al,

because

the

thread

now no

longer

the

groove

but

jammed

between

the

body

the

needle

and

the

material.

Thus the

thread

remains

stretched,

until

the

needle

reaches

its

lowest

point

(Fig.

6>.

When

the needle

starts

moving

upwards

again,

the

thread

the

long

groove

(F)

can

slide

without

difficulty

tween

the needle

and

the

material

(Fig.

7). As

the

short-grooved

side

(E)

the

thread

jammed,

can

not

slide

along

with

the

needle

and,

therefore,

forms

small

loop

the

same

side.

Fig.

Now

the

different

shuttle

systems

come

into

play.

They

all

have

the

same

task,

which

pass

the

bobbin

with

the

lower

thread

through

the

loop.

This

what

called

stitch

formation.

Fig.

—6-—

USING

THE

FOOT

CONTROL

CONNECT

THE

FOOT

CONTROL

WIRES:

Connect

special

plug

block

machine

shown

diagram

above.

Connect

outlet

plug

electrical

outlet.

When

sewing,

keep

children’s hands

away from

toot

control

and wiring.

After

sewing,

disconnect

plug

from electrical

outlet.

Your

sewing

machine

equipped

with

grounded

foot

control,

the

outlet

plug

will

have

third

round

prong

which acts

ground.

Your

electrical

outlet

must

have

matching

recepticle.

USE

THE

FOOT

PEDAL:

Begin

sewing

turning

the hand

wheel

toward

you and

apply

gradu

ally

increasing

pressure

foot

pedal.

Sewing

constant

speed

will

give

best

results.

—

7—

Table des matières

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