VAMISOUND Schoeps electret Mode d’emploi
Schoeps electret
BUILDING
INSTRUCTIONS
Dear DIY friend,
first of all thank you for your support and choice of the VAMISOUND product.
We wish you a happy DIY and the joy of a new microphone in your arsenal!!
Jan and Milan
SCHOEPS ELECTRET BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
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Document info
Document name
Schoeps electret building instructions
Document revision
1.0
PCB revision
1.1
Date
December 2023
Project difficulty
Complexity of soldering
Risk of electrick shock
Changes and notes
Before you start building your new microphone please carefully read this
building instructions.
Attention: Schoeps electret is a quite easy project. The circuit is made up of
only a few components. However, it should be borne in mind that certain
manual skills will be required or the successful completion of the mic
construction. Good soldering experience and soldering stations with fine
soldering tip are recommended. If you do not have this, please delegate the
construction to a more experienced technician with proper equipment. We
are not responsible for malfunctioning construction or injuries associated
with improper assembly of our kits.
SCHOEPS ELECTRET BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS
The Schoeps electret board allows you to build a microphone that is based on the circuitry from the legendary
Schoeps small diaphragm microphone. However, thanks to a small modification of the circuit, it can use
a electret capsule. The circuit is frequency flat, with no internal equalizer.
Start by fitting the smallest components which are the zener diodes D1, D2 and D3. Keep in mind that these are
components that have polarity, so their correct placement matters. The black stripe on the zener diode
indicates the cathode. The cathode points to the line on the footprint of the component.
Continue by soldering resistors as in the picture. R2 and R3 form a matched pair, the same for R4 and R5.
Install the teflon pin and the remaining R1 that feeds into it as if in air.
Continue by installing the FET transistor. I chose the original BC264, whose GATE leg is on its edge. If you
choose another FET, keep in mind that the GATE leg may be elsewhere. Always check this against the data sheet
of the particular FET transistor. Note that the GATE leg is also soldered in the air to the teflon pin.
Notice that on the board around the footprint of the FET transistor there are small marks D, S and G (= drain,
source and gate). Make sure that the selected FET transistor uses the same footprints. If necessary, adjust
according to the markings on the board. Gate leg of FET transistor solder to teflon pin as if in air. Q1 pcb
footprint on the board match BC264 (original Schoeps FET) pin out. If you plan, for example, to use 2N3819 FET
tranzistor keep in mind that the GATE pin is the middle one (always check it against the FET transistor
datasheet).
Next up is P1 trimmer resistor near the FET transistor.
Now solder the two film capacitors. Note that the C1 position remains unoccupied. C1 forms the LPF for very
bright capsules. You can experiment with values of round 22nF if needed.
Continue with the installation of two transistors T2 and T3. Before that, match the HFE parameter on these
transistors. Most multimeters have a socket for the transistors and can therefore measure the base HFE
parameter.
Two electrolytic capacitors remain to be installed.
Clean the back of the board thoroughly with a brush and isopropyl alcohol to keep it perfectly clean and free of
soldering debris.
Now comes probably the most challenging stage of the build and that is installing the RF filter on the XLR
connector insert. Take two 2.2nF ceramic capacitors. Solder the first one between pin 1 of the XLR connector
insert and pin 2, and the second one between pin 1 and pin 3 of the XLR connector insert.
Then output two 47uH inductors from pin 2 and pin 3 of the XLR connector insert as seen in the photo.
Do not forget to connect pin 1 of the XLR connector to the ground loop (also located on the connector insert).
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