Vacuflo 760 Dual Motor Manuel utilisateur

PlanAhead!

Planning is the key to the suc-

cessful installation of a central

vacuum system. Strive to obtain

a balance between the best loca-

tions for the inlet valves and the

practicality of servicing these

locations. Always fully consider

the implications before you cut

into a wall.

INSTALLATION MANUAL

CentralVacuum

System

•1/2" (1.3 cm) Right Angle Heavy Duty Electric Drill

•Battery Drill

•2-1/4" to 2-9/16” Self Feed Drill Bit

•1/4" (6.4 mm) Masonry Drill Bit

•Common Hacksaw or Small Handsaw with 18 teeth

per inch blade or 2" PVC Pipe Cutter

•Mitre Box

•Pocket or Utility Knife

•Steel Tape Measure

•Screwdriver (Slot and Phillips)

•Electrical Tape or Duct Tape

•Tie Wraps

•Wire Coat Hanger

•Hammer and Nail Puller

•Side Cutters

•Wire Connectors for #18 (1.00 mm) wire

•Flashlight

•Drywall Saw

•Wire Stripper

•Crimping Tool

Installing a central vacuum system is a straightforward do-it-

yourself project that doesn’t require special tools or skills.

Read the instructions thoroughly before you begin. Take your

time and follow the instructions carefully. Make sure you have

chosen the right installation location and that you are not cut-

ting into any hidden electrical wires or plumbing.

This kit contains all the materials required to install the vacu-

um system including the Vaculine fittings. Vaculine fittings

are manufactured to exacting standards to provide positive

seals, easy installation, and superior airflow characteristics.

Recommended Tools

The power unit can be located in the garage, basement,

utility room, or any other area that is dry and remote

enough that living areas will not be affected by the

sound of the electric motor. Preferably install the unit

on an outside wall away from heat-producing units such

as an incinerator, water heater, dryer, etc. (DO NOT

INSTALL POWER UNIT IN ATTIC.) The unit must be

mounted within three feet of an electrical outlet.

Electrical specifications of the power unit should be

checked to avoid overloading the circuit. The unit

should be mounted so that it is out of the way, but still

accessible for emptying.

Inlet valves are usually located on inside walls in hall-

ways, near doorways, archways, and near the bottom of

staircases. These locations provide the maximum area

of cleaning coverage with a minimum number of inlet

valves—frequently making it possible to clean three or

four rooms from one valve. The hose must be able to

reach every corner of the house and go around furni-

ture to get there.

After locating inlet valves, use a 30 foot (9.5 m) length

cord (our standard hose length) or a piece of string to

scale if working with blueprints, to be sure all areas of

the house can be cleaned from selected inlet valve loca-

tions. If an electrical beater brush is to be used now or

in the future, the inlet valve should be located within

five feet of an electrical outlet. Turbine driven beater

brush heads do not require electricity and thus allow

more flexibility when choosing inlet valve locations.

It is preferable to plan on using wall inlet valves; how-

ever, the same inlet valve can be placed in the floor if

tubing cannot be installed in the wall. For basements,

garages, and other areas where tubing is exposed, utili-

ty valves are used. They are installed easily, directly

into our standard tubing.

HOW TO DETERMINE LOCATION FOR POWER UNIT

HOW TO DETERMINE LOCATIONS FOR INLET VALVES

HelpfulHint

Vacuums must breath—do not

enclose them! If the unit is to be

located in a closet or utility room,

it must be vented. Louvered doors

fulfill this purpose. A muffler can

be used to minimize noise.

HelpfulHint

When determining locations for

inlet valves, make sure the hose

can reach all areas of the house

including closets, ceiling corners,

and walls. Allow sufficient slack in

the cord to get around furniture.

HelpfulHint

Venting considerations: 1) do not

vent into a wall, a ceiling, or a

concealed space of a building or

structure; 2) avoid venting to

patios and entranceways.

PAGE 2

PlanningtheCentralVacuumSystem

HOW TO PLAN THE TUBE SYSTEM

HelpfulHint

When planning the tubing system,

avoid gravity drops! A branch line

located directly below an over-

head trunk line will accumulate

dirt due to the effects of gravity.

The result will be a pile of dirt at

the base of the inlet valve every

time it is opened.

The amount of airflow that

reaches the hose is depend-

ent on the efficiency of the

tubing system layout. Lines

are to be kept as straight

as possible. Tight 90-degree

fittings are to be used only

at inlet valve locations and

sweep 90-degree fittings used in all other applications.

1. The Trunk Line

The trunk line connects the furthest inlet valve to the

power unit. All other inlet valves will be serviced by

branch lines flowing into the trunk line. If the base-

ment is unfinished, the trunk line is best run beneath

the joists in the basement ceiling. The upper floors can

be serviced through closets, cold air return ducts, or in

partition walls. Alternatively, the trunk line could run

straight up to the attic and service the floors beneath

by branch lines dropping through closet ceilings or par-

tition walls. The location of the trunk line will greatly

depend on the construction of the house and location of

the power unit.

Multi-Story Houses

While roughing in tube lines during construction is

comparatively simple, existing two- and three-story

houses present special installation situations that

require careful planning before installation is started. In

a two-story house, sometimes it is preferable to run a

trunk line directly into the attic or crawl space. From

this point, branch lines can be run across the attic to

partitions and down within partition walls to inlet

valves. Tube lines carrying dirt upward should never

exceed one-story. If dirt must be lifted higher than one-

story, run at least eight feet (2.4 m) of tubing horizon-

tally between the two floors.

There are several methods of gaining access to the sec-

ond floor or the attic including installing the tubing in

a closet, in the wall beside the soil pipe, inside the cold

air return, or in a partition wall (be sure to avoid

switches, wiring, and other obstacles).

2. Branch Lines

Branch lines join the remaining inlet valves to the trunk

line. As with the trunk line, these lines should be kept

as straight as possible. When possible, use 45-degree fit-

tings to avoid sharp corners. Airflow direction should

always be considered when installing branch lines.

PAGE 3

PlanningtheCentralVacuumSystem(Continued)

Measuring: Measurements should be taken from the

base of the pipe-stop, which is on the inside of the fit-

ting hub. As each section of tubing is cut, it should be

dry fitted before the next measurement is taken.

Cutting: The tubing must be cut as straight and square

as possible. A miter box should be used if available. All

rough edges must be removed with a utility knife or

coarse sandpaper.

Dry Fitting: Once all the pieces are cut, they should be

dry fitted to check for correct fit. The markings on the

fittings can be utilized to assure proper alignment.

Gluing: PVC solvent cement actually welds the fitting to

the tubing. A chemical reaction permanently joins the

molecules from each surface to produce an airtight seal.

Before cementing, both the tubing and the fitting must

be free of PVC burrs, dirt, and grime. The components

should be wiped with a clean cloth if necessary. Cement

should only be applied to the tubing because cement

applied to the fitting will be pushed ahead and create a

rough bead on the inside of the fitting. This bead will

reduce airflow and could cause a clog. The tubing

should be inserted all the way into the fitting and

twisted a quarter turn to evenly distribute the cement.

All excess cement should be removed with a rag. The

glue should be allowed to set for several hours before

the vacuum system is used.

Every power unit has an on/off switch that is activated

by completing a circuit at the inlet valves. The power

unit is turned on by simply inserting the hose in the

inlet valve. To facilitate this, low voltage wire must fol-

low the tubing system. At the junction of a branch line

and the trunk line, the wires must be spliced together.

Each inlet valve must be able to activate the machine

independently of the other valves. There must be an

uninterrupted route from each inlet valve to the power

unit. With wire ties, attach the wire to the tubing at

least every four feet. If using Lexan inlet valves, do not

loop wires at valve locations. Only one pair of wires

can be hooked up to these valves.

HOW TO CUT AND CEMENT PVC TUBING AND FITTINGS

LOW VOLTAGE WIRE

PAGE 4

PlanningtheCentralVacuumSystem(Continued)

The power unit should be mounted on an outside wall

to minimize the length of the exhaust line. Mount the

unit at a height that will provide convenient access to

the dirt receptacle, or about 6 feet (1.8 m) from the

floor to the top of the wall-mounting bracket which

holds the power unit. For proper ventilation and access,

the wall-mounting bracket must be at least 14" (355

mm) from ceiling and 14" (355 mm) from a side wall.

To mount on a masonry wall, use the wall-mounting

bracket as a template to locate two holes on a mortar

joint or on the surface of a cement block. Drill the two

marked holes 1" (25 mm) deep using a 1/4" (6.4 mm)

masonry drill bit.

To anchor, insert a 1/4" (6.4 mm) plastic anchor in

each hole. Secure the mounting bracket to the wall with

two 1" No. 12 (?5.5 x 25 mm) sheet-metal screws.

In anchoring to a wood or plaster wall, locate the wall-

mounting bracket on a stud. Securely anchor bracket to

stud with two No. 14 x 1 1/2" (?6.3 x 38 mm) screws

through the two vertical holes.

Hang Power Unit and Install Exhaust Line

The manufacturer recommends that a muffler be

installed with all power units. Mufflers are sold separate-

ly. Install the muffler vertically in the exhaust line with-

in the building, and extend the exhaust line outside.

The connection of the intake line and wiring to the

power unit will be completed after the balance of the

system is installed

.Electrical Requirements

All Vacuflo Power Units are supplied with a power supply

cord for connection to a grounded receptacle. All wiring

must meet local codes. Warning: When using the system,

electric shock might occur if used on a wet surface.

Grounding Instructions

This appliance must be grounded. If it should malfunc-

tion or breakdown, grounding reduces the risk of elec-

tric shock by providing a path of least resistance for

electric current. This appliance is equipped with a cord

having an equipment-grounding conductor and ground-

ing plug. The plug must be plugged into an appropriate

outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accor-

dance with all local codes and ordinances.

WARNING!

Electric shock is a risk when the equipment-grounding

conductor is improperly connected. Check with a quali-

fied electrician or service person if you are in doubt as

to whether or not the outlet is properly grounded. Do

not modify the plug provided with the appliance—if it

will not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a

qualified electrician. This appliance is for use on a nomi-

nal 120-volt circuit. Make sure that the appliance is con-

nected to an outlet having the same configuration as the

plug. No adapter should be used with this appliance.

INSTALLATION OF THE POWER UNIT - NEW & EXISTING HOMES

HowtoInstalltheSystem

Step1

INSTALLATION OF INLET VALVES –

EXISTING HOMES

Step2

HelpfulHint

Probe for obstructions by insert-

ing a sufficient length of tubing

into the wall before cutting the

inlet valve hole.

The hole in the wall for the inlet valve should be locat-

ed between studs—clear of obstructions such as plumb-

ing, wiring, heating ducts, etc. NOTE: Minimum stud

depth for sufficient clearance of the adapter elbow is 2

3/4" (70 mm).

Determine the exact location of an inlet valve and locate

a point on the floor directly below vertical center of the

desired location. For appearance, the height of the inlet

valves should be centered with the height of electrical

receptacles. Drill a small pilot hole (against the wall)

through the flooring and sub-flooring. The straight sec-

tion of a wire coat hanger cut at an angle makes a good

pilot hole drill bit. (Be careful not to snag carpeting.)

From beneath the floor, this pilot hole will serve as a

guide point from which you can measure over approxi-

mately 2 1/2" (63 mm) to locate and drill a 2 1/4" (57

mm) diameter hole in the center of the sole plate.

Before cutting the 2 1/4" x 3 3/4" (57 mm x 95 mm)

hole in the wall for the inlet valve, drill the 2 1/4" (57

mm) diameter hole up through the sole plate. Using a

flashlight, inspect the interior of the wall to make sure

there are no obstructions. It is also advisable to probe

for obstructions by inserting a sufficient length of tub-

ing into the wall BEFORE cutting the inlet valve hole.

PAGE 5

INSTALLATION OF INLET VALVES - EXISTING HOMES (C0NTINUED)

Step2

Having determined that there are no obstructions in

the wall, cut a hole 2 1/4" (57 mm) wide by 3 3/4" (95

mm) tall for the inlet valve.

Tape low voltage wire to the end of a sufficiently long

piece of tubing and pass it up from beneath. Leave

approximately 10" (250 mm) of wire beyond the end of

the tube to permit easy wiring of the inlet valve. When

the main trunk line is overhead, tubing can also be

passed down to inlet valve locations in the wall.

Apply adhesive to the adapter elbow stem and insert

adapter elbow through the wall opening and into the

tube. After putting the wire through the top oval hole of

the mounting plate, insert mounting plate diagonally

through the wall opening with the four bent tabs facing

adapter elbow. Line up slots on the mounting plate with

tabs on adapter elbow; then rotate mounting plate into

an upright position. Be sure approximately 6" (150 mm)

of #18-2 (1.00 mm) solid wire is through the top oval

hole of the wall-mounting plate.

Split wires at least 1" (25 mm), then strip 3/8" (10

mm) insulation from each wire. Insert stripped wires

into the two holes on switch on the back of the inlet

valve. Press firmly to engage.

Be sure gasket is in place on inlet valve stem before

inserting into adapter elbow.

Secure inlet valve into place with the four screws provid-

ed. Be sure inlet valve covers the hole on all sides and is

straight. Do not over tighten screws. Snub down lightly.

Be sure the inlet valve lid opens and closes freely.

PAGE 6

HelpfulHint

Do not over tighten the screws

that attach the inlet valve to the

mounting plate. If a whistling

noise develops during operation,

slightly loosen the screws.

HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

Closet Wall Installation of Inlet Valve

If obstructions make it impossible to run vertical tube

lines through partition walls, the best and easiest alter-

native is to go through the insides of closets. This

works especially well when a closet on the second floor

is directly above a closet on the main floor.

Drill a horizontal pilot hole through the center of a

suitable inlet valve location. Probe for hidden obstruc-

tions with a bent piece of coat hanger. With the pilot

hole as a center, drill a 1 1/2" hole through both sides

of the wall. Using a keyhole saw, cut a hole 2 1/4" (57

mm) wide by 3 3/4" (95mm) long in the outside and

inside wall. (See drawing below.)

From Inside the Closet

Feed the low voltage wire

through the top hole of the

mounting plate then through

the wall to the other side.

Attach the 90 adapter to the

mounting plate. Secure

mounting plate flange to the

inside wall with screws to

hold this part temporarily in

position. Install a valve exten-

sion through the wall into the

90 adapter insuring that the flange is at least 1/4”

inside of the wall and that the screw holes are lined up

squarely. Glue this valve extension into the 90

adapter. Allow glue to set - then install wire into valve

and insert valve into valve extension and secure with

screws. Drill a 2-1/4” - 2-9/16” hole below the 90

adapter and connect PVC to trunk line.

SPECIAL SITUATIONS - EXISTING HOMES

Step3

Floor Installation of Inlet Valve

While the normal installation of inlet valves is in parti-

tion walls, occasionally one must be installed in the

floor. In this case, the location for the inlet valve

should be about two inches from the wall and not in a

high traffic area. As with wall installations, use a pilot

hole drill to make sure the location is clear of obstruc-

tions below. Cut a hole that is 2 1/4" (57 mm) wide by

3 3/4" (95 mm) long. Attach mounting plate to 90˚

adapter elbow. Assemble inlet valve as shown on page

6. Facing wall, valve should open to the left for ease

of use.

In the case of linoleum or uncovered floors, the mount-

ing plate will be installed from below. If the floor is

carpeted, cut a hole in the carpet with a utility knife

and slip the untrimmed mounting plate under the car-

pet. Fasten the mounting plate to the floor with screws.

If a wall or floor is over 1" (25 mm) thick, use inlet

valve stem extension #5018. Shorten extension to fit.

The flange on the extension should be 1/4" (6 mm)

below the surface to insure a proper fit of the valve.

PAGE 7

HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

HelpfulHint

For houses with flat roofs

and slab floors, inlet

valves are installed in

exterior walls and branch

lines are run outside the

house. The tubing system

can be run underground

or under the eaves of the

house.

INSTALLATION OF INLET VALVES - NEW CONSTRUCTION

Step4

Vertical tube lines and low voltage wiring for inlet

valves are roughed in while the house is in the framing

stage.

After selecting the location for an inlet valve, drill a 2

1/4" (57 mm) hole in the center of the plate next to

the stud. Cement sufficient tubing to adapter elbow for

riser or drop to extend 3" (76 mm) beyond the plate.

Assemble the mounting plate to the adapter elbow with

plaster guard tabs facing forward.

Insert tubing through the hole in the plate and nail the

mounting plate to the front of the stud, with the

adapter elbow next to the stud. For appearance, inlet

valve height should be the same as electrical recepta-

cles in the room.

Bring approximately 10" (250 mm) of low voltage wire

through the top oval hole of the mounting plate and

double it back into the adapter elbow. Also allow

approximately 2 feet (.6 m) of wire beyond the plate.

Press the red plaster guard insert firmly into the face

of the mounting plate between the tabs.

After the walls are finished, the inserts will be

removed before installing the valves. After the house is

finished, complete the system following the applicable

portions of these instructions.

Happy vacuuming!

HelpfulHint

Take measurement from floor

to bottom of electrical box.

Add 1-7/8” to get Center Point

of Vac Mounting Plate.

PAGE 8

HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

SPECIAL SITUATIONS - NEW & EXISTING HOMES

Step5

Installation of Inlet Valves

For walls 1/4" (6 mm) thick or less, the rubber gasket

seal on the inlet valve stem should be moved forward

to the front groove to insure a proper seal. A slot is

provided 3/8" (10 mm) from the end

of the stem in order that it may be

sawed off with a standard hack-

saw. If the inlet valve will not

cover a hole in the wall in a new

or existing installation, an inlet

valve trim plate (ivory #5007 or

brown #5008) is available. The

trim plate fits behind the valve

and covers any oversized hole up

to 1/2" (13 mm).

Installation of a Utility Valve

A utility valve is used next to the power unit or in

basements, garages, and other areas where tubing is

exposed. To install, put the screw provided with the

valve into the wall (using an anchor if

necessary) until it protrudes 3/4"

(19 mm). Check 3/4" (19 mm) with

the gauge on the back of the valve.

Connect wiring to low voltage wire-

leads in valve, and push connec-

tions into space provided. Using a

1/8" allen wrench, change valve to

the unlocked position, place over

the screw, and turn to "L" for

locked position. If not snug, remove

valve and adjust screw slightly.

SPECIAL SITUATIONS - NEW & EXISTING HOMES (CONTINUED)

Step5

Center VacPan under

cabinet so as to

avoid standards and

cabinet supports. Use

a 1x4 and a 2x4 under pipe to

get correct height. Dry fit horizontal pipe

into sweep 90 that comes up under cabinet. We recom-

mend having cabinet people put a false bottom in this cabinet. Pipe

opening is not centered to opening in mopboard. Measure 4" to right side of cen-

ter and 2-1/2" to left of center, 6-1/2" width x 1-3/4" height over all. If installation of

VacPan is only possible from front of mopboard, cut opening 6-1/2" x 3-1/2" and use

oversized trim plate.

PAGE 9

HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

COMPLETION OF TUBING SYSTEM (NEW AND EXISTING HOMES)

Step6

With the inlet valves installed, start at the most distant

valve and extend the trunk line toward the power unit.

Connect branch lines to trunk with 90-degree TYs,

being careful to have directional flow toward the power

unit.

Note: Never drop a branch line directly out of the bot-

tom of a trunk line because this will provide a pocket

for dirt to drop into. Always run a branch line out of

the side or top of the trunk line. No. 18-2 (1.00 mm)

low voltage wire follows tubing from each inlet valve.

Junctions or splices using wire connectors (check local

code) are made at each branch or TY. Tape the wire to

the tubing or staple it to the joists. At the power unit,

connect the wires to the low voltage terminals.

HelpfulHint

Tube lines may be installed in par-

titions, attics, crawl spaces, under

or between floor joists, or on

walls or columns in basements.

PAGE 10

HowtoInstalltheSystem(Continued)

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