SIG FOUR-STAR 60 Manuel utilisateur

FOUR-STAR 60 ARF ASSEMBLY MANUAL

INTRODUCTION:

SIG’s FOUR-STAR 60 ARF combines the classic looks and

performance of Sig’s Four-Star series in an almost ready to fly

package. The FOUR-STAR 60 ARF is easy to fly and makes an

ideal choice for your first low wing airplane. Intermediate and

advanced flyers will love the maneuverability and smooth handling

of the Four-Star 60 ARF, making it the sport model you'll want to

take to the flying field every time.

Set the control throws at the suggested low rates for your first

flights, throttle back and enjoy a truly honest, gentle airplane. As

your skill level advances, dial-up the control throws a little to enjoy

a very aerobatic airplane. Inside and outside loops, rolls, inverted

flight, and snap maneuvers are all in the FOUR-STAR 60 flight

envelope.

The FOUR-STAR 60 ARF kit has been engineered to get you into

the air quickly as possible with an R/C model that will truly last.

The airframe has been expertly built and covered with AeroKote™.

This material is both rugged and easy to repair. The covering trim

scheme is provided on three large peel & stick mylar decal sheets.

This assembly manual has been specifically sequenced to get

your FOUR-STAR 60 ARF assembled and into the air very quickly.

We strongly suggest that you read through the manual first to get

familiar with the various parts and their assembly sequences. The

proper assembly and flying of this aircraft is your responsibility. If

you are new to the sport/hobby of radio control, we urge you to

seek the assistance of a qualified person to help you assemble this

model airplane. If you do not understand a particular assembly

step or sequence, do not guess - find qualified help and use it.

RADIO EQUIPMENT:

The FOUR-STAR 60 ARF requires a standard 4-channel radio

system and five standard servos. We have used and can highly

recommend both the Hitec™and Airtronics®systems. Both of

these very affordable and reliable radio systems offer all the

features you’ll need for this and the many other R/C aircraft in your

future. For reference, this assembly manual shows the installation

of a Hitec™radio system with standard servos. In addition, you will

need two aileron 12” servo lead extensions and a 6” aileron servo

Y-harness for connection to the receiver.

ENGINE SELECTION:

Engine choices for the FOUR-STAR 60 ARF are many. The

FOUR-STAR 60 ARF has been designed to produce excellent

performance when using the recommended engine sizes. Do not

use an engine larger than recommended.

2-stroke engines are a perfect choice to power your FOUR-STAR

60 ARF. Any plain-bearing or bearing equipped .60 to .75 sport

engine would be a good choice. For example, a great choice

would be the Irvine .61 engine. Like all Irvine engines, the .61 is

powerful, reliable, and quiet. Whatever engine you choose, take

the time to carefully break it in according to the manufacturer’s

instructions. A good running, reliable engine is a minimum

requirement for the enjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft.

The FOUR-STAR 60 ARF can also use a variety of 4-stroke

engines. Any 4-stroke engine in the .65 - .90 displacement range

should provide plenty of power. An important thing to remember is

that typical 4-stroke engines have their throttle arms usually

located differently than throttle arms on 2-stroke engines. If you

want to power this model with a 4-stroke engine, you will likely

have to install a new, relocated throttle cable tube. While this is not

difficult, it is something to consider when choosing an engine.

COVERING MATERIAL:

Your FOUR-STAR 60 ARF has been professionally covered using

AeroKote™. This material is well known for its ease of application,

light weight, and consistency of color. If you live in a dry climate,

you may notice that some wrinkles might develop after removing

the covered parts from their plastic bags. This is perfectly normal

in low humidity climates. Your model was built and covered in a

part of the world with relatively high humidity and therefore the

wood was likely carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed

to drier air, the wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally

“shrinking” in the process. In turn, this may cause some wrinkles.

However, wrinkles are easy to remove by just using a hobby type

heat iron.

We suggest covering the iron’s shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such

as an old T-shirt, to prevent scratching the film. The iron should be

set to about 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC). Use the heated

iron to lightly shrink the material - do not press on it. Then, lightly

iron the material back down to the wood. You can also use a

hobby-type heat gun to re-shrink the covering but you must be

careful around seams or color joints. Re-heating seams may

cause them to “creep”, making them unsightly.

For part number reference, your FOUR-STAR 60 ARF was

covered in AeroKote™film with the following part numbers:

#SIGSTL311 Bright Red or #SIGSTL330 BrightYellow.

REQUIRED TOOLS:

For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and

materials available:

A selection of glues - SIG Thin and Thick CA and

SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy

Threadlock Compound, Such as Loctite®

Non-Permanent Blue

Screwdriver Assortment

Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose

Diagonal Wire Cutters

Small Allen Wrench Assortment

Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits

Hobby Knife With Sharp #11 Blades

Scissors

Heat Iron and Trim Seal Tool

Masking Tape

Paper Towels

Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits

Dremel®Tool With Selection of Sanding and Grinding Bits

A soldering iron and solder.

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST:

The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.

Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to

inventory the parts in your kit.

BASIC AIRCRAFT PARTS:

❑1 each Fuselage

❑1 each Right & Left Wing Panel Set with Ailerons.

❑1 each Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator Set.

❑1 each Vertical Fin & Rudder Set

WIRE PARTS:

❑1 each Formed Elevator Joiner Wire

❑1 each Formed Tailwheel Wire

❑2 each 2-56 x 1 1/4”Threaded Rods; servo end of elevator

& rudder pushrods

❑2 each 2-56 x 3 1/2”Threaded Rods; control surface end of

elevator & rudder pushrods

❑2 each 4-40 x 8”Threaded Rods; aileron pushrods

METRIC HARDWARE:

❑1 each M2 x 20mm Phillips Head Screw; for tailwheel

installation

❑2 each M2 Flat Metal Washers; for tailwheel installation

❑1 each M2 Hex Nut; for tailwheel installation

❑1 each 2mm I. D.Wheel Collar with set screw; for tailwheel

installation

❑1 each Allen "L" Wrench; for 2mm wheel collar

❑3 each M4 x 16mm Phillips Head Screws; for main landing

gear attachment

❑4 each M4 x 22mm Phillips Head Screws; for engine mount

attachment

❑2 each M4 x 30mm Phillips Head Screws; main wheel axles

❑2 each M4Hex Nuts; for axles

❑6 each M4Flat Metal Washers; (4) for engine mount

(2) for axles

❑2 each 4mm I. D.Wheel Collars with set screws; for axles

❑1 each Allen "L" Wrench; for 4mm wheel collars

❑4 each #2 x 8mm Phillips head washer style sheet metal

screws; for canopy

❑4 each Nylon "button" washers; for canopy

U.S. HARDWARE:

❑2 each 1/4-20 x 1-1/2”Nylon Wing Bolts; for wing mounting

❑1 each 2-56 x 3/4”Threaded Brass Coupler; for carb end of

throttle pushrod

❑3 each 2-56 Nylon R/C Links; for elevator (1), rudder (1),

throttle (1)

❑3 each 2-56 Solder R/C Links; for elevator (1), rudder (1),

throttle (1)

❑1 each Short, Right Nylon Control Horn; for aileron

❑1 each Short, Left Nylon Control Horn; for aileron

❑1 each Medium, Right Nylon Control Horn; for rudder

❑1 each Medium, Left Nylon Control Horn; for elevator

❑8 each #2 x 3/4”Sheet Metal Screws; for control horns

❑2 each 4-40 Metal R/C Links; for aileron (2)

❑2 each 4-40 Solder R/C Links; for aileron (2)

❑2 each 4-40 Hex Nuts; for aileron (2)

MISCELLANEOUS:

❑1 each 12mm Hardwood Front Wing Joiner

❑1 each 6mm Plywood Rear Wing Joiner

❑2 each 2mm Plywood Wing Hold-Down Plates

❑1 each 3mm Plywood Aileron Positioning Guide

❑1 each 3mm Formed Aluminum Main Landing Gear

❑1 each Molded Clear Plastic Canopy

❑1 set 4pc. Adjustable Engine Mounts, 60-size

❑22 each CA Hinges; for ailerons (12), elevator (6), rudder (4)

❑2 each 8.5cm dia. (approx. 3.35”) Main Wheels

❑1 each 30mm dia. (approx. 1.17”) Tailwheel

❑1 each Formed Metal Tailwheel Strap

❑1 each 2-1/2”dia. Spinner assembly

❑1 each 10mm sq. X 94mm Balsa; Fuel Tank Retainer

❑2 each 1cm x 8cm x 20cm Foam Rubber; for radio packing

❑1 each 2mm x 3.15mm x 26cm Plastic Throttle Pushrod

Tube

❑1 each 380cc (12.8 oz.) Plastic Fuel Tank with Hardware

❑1 each .065" O. D. x 18" Stranded Steel Cable - for throttle

pushrod

MISCELLANEOUS CONTINUED:

❑2 each .200 O. D. x .074 I. D. x 36”Inner Nylon Pushrods

Tubes for elevator and rudder

❑1 each Four-Star 60 ARF Assembly Manual

❑1 each Sig Four-Star 60 Fuselage Stars decal

❑1 each Sig Four-Star 60 Right Wing & Stabilizer Stars decal

❑1 each Sig Four-Star 60 Left Wing & Stabilizer Stars decal

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED (NOT INCLUDED IN KIT):

❑4 each 6-32 x 1 1/2”Socket Head Screws

❑4 each 6-32 Lock Nuts

❑4 each No.6 Flat Washers

❑1 each 4 Channel Radio with 5 Standard Servos

❑2 each 12”Servo Extension cables

❑1 each 6”Aileron "Y" Harness

❑1 each .60 to .65 2-Stroke engine & Muffler

or .65 to .90 4-Stroke engine & Muffler

❑1 each Propeller to match engine used

❑2 each 9”Medium Silicone fuel tubing

ASSEMBLING THE WING:

The wing on the FOUR-STAR 60 ARF is designed as a strong,

easy to assemble one piece unit. For precise control there is one

servo mounted in each wing panel to control the ailerons. To avoid

unnecessary dents, dings, or scuffing of the various covered parts,

we suggest that you cover your workbench with a protective

blanket or foam sheet while assembling your model.

Installing the ailerons and aileron servos:

For the following steps you will need:

•1 each left and right wing panels (with ailerons & hinges)

•2 each standard servos

•2 each 12”servo extensions

•1 each 6”Servo “Y”Harness for your particular radio system.

❑1) The aileron servo bays are located on the bottom surface of

each wing panel. These bays have been covered over and now

need to be opened to allow access. Use a hobby knife to open the

aileron servo bay in one wing. To make the neatest possible job,

we suggest cutting each corner of the opening at a 45Oangle

toward the middle of the opening. Then, make a cut at the middle

of the opening, connecting it with the four previous corner cuts.

❑2) Use a covering iron to seal the four loose edges of each

side of the servo bay opening and trim the excess covering

material with a hobby knife.

Inside the servo bay opening you will see the plywood servo mount

and a short length of wood with a string tied to it. This string is

used to pull the aileron servo lead through the wing and out of the

opening in the top of each wing panel - leave it in place for now.

❑3) Also, on the top of each wing panel, just inboard of the

center wing rib, you will need to remove the covering from the

square opening. This is the servo lead exit. Inside this opening

you will see a piece of wood with a string tied to it. This is the other

end of the string in the aileron servo bay. Leave the string in place

for now.

❑4) Before installing the aileron servos you must attach an

extension cable to the aileron servo cable. The typical combined

length required is 21”.A12”extension cable will usually provide

sufficient length. Plug the extension cable into the servo and

secure well with tape. Also, install the mounting grommet and

eyelets onto the servo as described in the instructions that came

with your radio.

❑5) Pull the wooden block and line out of the servo bay

opening. Remove the wood from the line and discard it. Tie the

line securely to the connector end of the servo cable. Carefully

pull the line and servo cable through the wing until the servo cable

emerges from the opening in the top of the wing.

❑6) Fit the servo into the servo mount in the wing panel, (note

that the servo is positioned so that its output arm is at the forward

end toward the wing leading edge). Take up any slack in the servo

cable as you insert the servo by pulling on the end of the cable

where it exits the top of the wing. Use a pin vise and a small drill

bit to drill small pilot holes in the servo mount for the servo

mounting screws. Use the screws supplied with your radio system

to mount the servo securely in place on the servo mount. Repeat

this procedure to mount the servo in the opposite wing panel.

❑7) The ailerons are now hinged to the wing panels. The

installation process for these hinges is the same for all of the

control surfaces on this model. Press the six CA hinges into the

slots in the aileron. Use pins in the center of each hinge to keep

them centered when pressing them into the slots in the trailing

edge of the wing.

❑8) Carefully press the hinges into the trailing edge of the wing.

Adjust the aileron so that the tip of the aileron is flush with the wing

tip. The ailerons should be tight against the pins in the hinges to

minimize the gap between the wing and the aileron. The aileron is

now in the proper position for permanently gluing them in place

with thin CA glue.

❑9) Flex the aileron down and hold it into this position with a

piece of masking tape. Remove the pins from one hinge and apply

3-4 drops of thin CA glue to the hinge. We suggest using a fine

tipped applicator on the glue bottle to better control the flow of

glue.

❑10) When the glue is dry, you can repeat the gluing procedure

on the remaining five hinges. Remove the tape that is holding the

flexed aileron in position and flex the aileron in the opposite

direction and re-apply the masking tape to hold it in this position.

Now, apply 4-5 drops of thin CA glue to the bottom of each hinge

on the aileron. Remove the masking tape and return the aileron to

its center position. Because it takes a little time for the glue to fully

wick its way through the entire surface of the hinge and the

surrounding wood, allow 10 minutes before flexing the aileron.

Any spilled glue can be removed with Sig Debonder.

After sufficient time has passed, flex the aileron up and down

several times to create free and easy movement. You must also

pull on the aileron at each hinge location to be sure that the hinges

are firmly bonded in place. Repeat this process to attach the

aileron to the other wing.

Installing the ailerons, horns, and pushrods:

For the following steps you will need:

•2 each 4-40 x 8”Threaded Rods

•2 each 4-40 Metal R/C Links

•2 each 4-40 Solder R/C Links

•2 each 4-40 Hex Nuts

•1 each Short Right Nylon Control Horn

•1 each Short Left Nylon Control Horn

•4 each #2 x 3/4”Sheet Metal Screws.

❑1) We recommend using servo output arms for the aileron

servos. Install the arms to the two aileron servos so that when

they are in neutral the arms are pointing toward the center of the

wing (towards the fuselage). The arms should be at 90Oto the

servo when the aileron control stick on the transmitter is in neutral

and the transmitter trims are in neutral as well.

❑2) Screw one of the 4-40 hex nuts all of the way onto one of

the 8”4-40 threaded pushrods. Now, thread one of the 4-40 Metal

R/C Links onto the pushrod so that about 3/8”of the threads on the

rod are showing past the barrel of the connector.

❑3) Attach the 4-40 link and pushrod to the second to last hole

in the aileron servo output arm. Position the pushrod so that it is

90Oto the aileron hinge line. Use a felt tip pen to mark the pushrod

location on the trailing edge of the wing just ahead of the aileron.

❑4) Swing the pushrod out of the way and locate the control

horn. There are a left and right horn and the base of the horn

should point toward the inboard (fuselage) end of the wing.

Set the control horn on the bottom of the aileron. The upright arm

of the horn should be parallel with the servo and should line up

with the pushrod pen mark on the wing to establish the proper left

to right position. Now, the horn should be moved forward or aft

until the linkage holes in the upright arm are directly over the hinge

line.

❑5) Use a 1/16”drill bit to drill through the aileron for the control

horn screws. Use two of the #2 x 3/4”Sheet Metal Screws to

attach the control horn to the wing by screwing them into the two

holes in the nylon retaining plate that is molded with the horn. The

aileron should be sandwiched between the control horn on the

bottom and the retaining plate on the top. After the screws are

securely tightened, the excess screw that is extending past the

retaining plate can be cut off with a pair of side cutting pliers.

3/8”

❑6) Place the 4-40 Solder R/C Link into the last hole in the

control horn. Swing the aileron pushrod against the control horn.

Make sure that the servo is still in the neutral position and tape the

aileron into approximately neutral position. Hold the pushrod

against the 4-40 Solder R/C Link. Mark the pushrod wire 3/16”

beyond the end of the center barrel of the solder link.

NOTE: Depending on the type of servo that you use, you may

have to bend the pushrod slightly in the middle to angle it up from

the wing so that it is aligned with the control horn without putting

any bending force on the servo arm.

❑7) Remove the pushrod from the servo and remove the solder

link from the control horn. Cut the pushrod at the mark. Slip the

solder link onto the end of the pushrod so that the end of the rod

extends 3/16”beyond the barrel on the link and solder into

position, using enough heat to “sweat”the joint completely.

❑8) Reattach the pushrod to the servo and the control horn.

The aileron should be approximately neutral. Final adjustment will

come later. Now fabricate and install the opposite pushrod and

control horn assembly the same way.

Joining the Wings:

For the following steps you will need:

•Both wing panels

•1 each 12mm Hardwood Front Wing Joiner

•1 each 6mm Plywood Rear Wing Joiner.

❑1) Slide the front and rear wing joiners into one of the wing

panels and then, slide the other wing panel into position to test the

fit of the joiners. The wings should fit tightly together and the

center ribs should fit flush around their edges. If you need to make

any adjustments to get the proper alignment you may slightly trim

the openings in the wing ribs.

❑2) Use Sig Slow Cure epoxy to join the two wing panels

together. Apply the glue generously to the end ribs, Work some

glue into the joiner slots and coat the joiners. Carefully slide the

wing halves into place and hold them in the proper alignment with

tape until the epoxy cures. Wipe away any excess epoxy that

oozes from the center joint with a paper towel or a rag dampened

with isopropyl alcohol before the glue cures. Be careful that the

leading and trailing edges of the two wings are perfectly aligned

and that there is no built in twist.

Fitting the Wing to the Fuselage:

For the following steps you will need:

•The assembled wing

•The fuselage.

•2 each 1/4-20 x 1-1/2”Nylon Wing Bolts

•2 each 2mm Plywood Wing Hold-Down Plates

❑1) Place the plywood wing hold down plates on the bottom of

the wing. The 1/4”holes in the plates should line up with the holes

in the wing panels. The rear edges should be flush with the wing

trailing edge and they should be centered on the wing joint.

Carefully draw around the plywood plates with a felt tip pen to mark

their location on the wing covering. Lift the plates from the wing.

3/16”

❑2) Carefully remove the covering from the bottom of the wing

at the location of the plywood plates by using a sharp knife to cut

the covering approximately 3/32”inside the drawn lines and

remove the covering from the wing.

❑3) Use Medium CA to glue the plywood plates to the bottom of

the wing. Now mount the wing onto the fuselage and install the

nylon bolts through the wing and into the blind nuts installed in the

fuselage. Now remove the wing and bolts and set them aside until

later.

ASSEMBLING THE FUSELAGE:

Preparing The Fuselage:

For the following step you will need the fuselage.

The fuselage has been built and covered but there are several

openings that must now be opened up. These are:

1 - Stabilizer & Rudder openings...Located at rear of

fuselage

2 - Antenna Exit opening...Located on the bottom rear

of fuselage

3 - Three screw holes for mounting landing gear...Located

on the bottom of the fuselage just ahead of the wing

opening.

4 - Engine compartment drain hole...Located on the

bottom of the fuselage just ahead of the firewall.

Installing the Main Landing Gear

For the following step you will need:

•The Fuselage

•1 each Formed Aluminum Main Landing Gear

•2 each M4 x 30mm Phillips Head Screws

•2 each M4 Hex Nuts

•2 each M4 Flat Metal Washers

•2 each 4mm I. D. Wheel Collars with set screws

•1 each Allen "L" Wrench

•3 each M4 x 16mm Phillips Head Screws.

Note: When assembling the hardware in the following steps you

must use a thread-locking compound such as Locktite #242.

❑1) Slip one M4 washer onto each M4 x 30mm Phillips Head

Screw. Insert the screws into the axle holes at the bottom of the

landing gear legs, from the inside surface. Thread one M4 hex nut

onto the threads of each screw, all of the way up to the

Antenna exit

Pushrod exit

Gear Screw Holes

Drain Hole

aluminum landing gear. Use a phillips screw driver and a small

wrench to firmly tighten the nuts to the screws on the landing gear.

❑2) Now, slide the main wheels onto the axle screws. The

dished side of the wheel hub should face out. Place the M4 wheel

collar onto the axle. Leaving just a little play for the wheel, tighten

the wheel collar set screw with the allen wrench provided.

❑2) The entire landing gear assembly is now mounted onto the

bottom of the fuselage using the three M4 x 16mm Phillips Head

Screws.

ENGINE AND FUEL TANK INSTALLATION:

The 380cc (12.8oz.) fuel tank supplied with this kit is easily

assembled. We suggest using a simple two line fuel system in this

airplane. One fuel line is connected to the "clunk" or fuel pick-up

line and the engine's carburetor. This same line will also be used

to fill the tank. The second line is the overflow line for use when

filling the tank. After filling the tank, this same line is then

connected to the engine's muffler pressure nipple, providing

muffler pressure to the tank. Note that the rubber stopper for the

tank has two holes all the way through it. Use these holes for the

two fuel lines. Gently bend the aluminum overflow tube upwards

to 90O, to reach the top of the tank. Adjust the length of the

internal silicon fuel tubing to allow free movement of the fuel

pick-up inside the tank. Install the stopper assembly into the neck

of the tank and secure by tightening the compression screw.

ENGINE INSTALLATION:

This instruction sequence will install both the fuel tank and the

engine. Therefore, you will need the following:

•The Engine (with muffler removed) - not included

•The Assembled Fuel Tank

•1 each 10mm sq. x 94mm balsa strip

•1 each Motor Mount Assembly (4-piece)*

•4 Each M4 x 22mm Screws

•4 Each M4 Washers

•2 Each 9" Lengths of Silicon Fuel Tubing - not included

•4 Each 6-32 x 1 1/2" Socket Head Screws - not included

•4 Each 6-32 Lock Nuts - not included

•4 Each #6 Washers - not included

(*NOTE: The motor mount system provided in the kit can be used

in two ways - with or without the adjustable bases. The two bases

can be used when you need a little more mounting arm length for

your engine. This could be the case when working with larger

4-stroke engines. However, typical 2-stroke engines do not need

this extra length. In this case the mounting bases can be set aside

and not used.)

NOTE: If you are using a 4-stroke motor, please skip ahead to

step #6 in this section for special instructions relating to 4-stroke

installation.

❑1) The fuel tank is installed first. Apply a bead of silicon sealer

around the neck of the fuel tank and install it into the fuel

compartment, aligning the neck with the round hole in the firewall.

Press the neck into the firewall hole. Allow the silicon sealant to

cure before applying any pressure to the fuel lines.

❑2) Glue the 10mm sq.x 94mm balsa strip into position against

the fuselage sides and against the rear of the fuel tank. Trim as

required to obtain a tight fit against the fuselage sides.

NOTE: The engine compartment was fuel proofed during

production of the airplane. However, for a little extra insurance,

you could give the engine compartment an additional coat of

surfacing resin. If you decide to do this, use a brush to apply the

resin and be sure to brush the resin up to the covering edges.

❑3) Apply a little thread-locking compound to the four

M4 x 22mm screws and install the two motor mount arms to the

firewall - do not tighten in place yet. As mentioned earlier, these

arms can be positioned to adjust to the width of the engine's

crankcase. Place your engine on the motor mount arms and move

the arms as needed to accept the engine. Also, center the engine

to the fuselage in the top view. When everything appears correct,

tighten the screws, securing the mounts to the firewall.

❑4) Use a punch or pencil to mark the engine's mounting screw

locations directly onto the motor mount arms. Remove the engine

and drill the four required holes in the mounts for your engine. If

you are using 6-32 x 1 1/2”screws and lock nuts (not supplied) to

mount your engine, use a 5/32" dia. bit for the clearance holes. Do

not drill and tap these motor mounts. Doing so may weaken them.

Use a little thread-locking compound on all screws when

assembling these components. The muffler should be mounted

after the throttle linkage has been made in the following section.

❑5) Some engine configurations have rear-mounted, remote

needle valve assemblies. If you are using this type of engine, you

will have to likely drill a hole in the side of the fuselage to allow the

needle valve to clear. Be sure to fuel proof any exposed wood in

such holes with epoxy resin, clear dope, etc.

4-STROKE INSTALLATION DETAILS:

Note: If you are using a two stroke motor you may move on to the

next section of the instructions.

❑6) When using a 4-stroke motor you will have to relocate the

throttle pushrod housing to fit your installation. Remove the

housing from the fuselage now.

❑7) Apply a little thread-locking compound to the four

M4 x 22mm screws and install the two motor mount arms to the

firewall - do not tighten in place yet. As mentioned earlier, these

arms can be positioned to adjust to the width of the engine's

crankcase. Place your engine on the motor mount arms and move

the arms as needed to accept the engine. Also, center the engine

to the fuselage in the top view. When everything appears correct,

tighten the screws, securing the mounts to the firewall.

❑8) Install a Servo Connector (not included) onto the throttle arm

on your motor. Set your motor into position and mark the firewall

with the new location of the throttle pushrod.

Now, remove the motor and drill a 1/8”hole in the firewall at the

marked location. You will also need to drill a new hole in the

fuselage frame that is at the front of the wing if the new location on

the firewall is on the opposite side than the factory installation. The

pushrod housing should be glued into position in the holes in the

firewall and former.

❑9) Now install the motor as described in step #4 of this section.

❑10) Now install the fuel tank as described in steps #1 & #2 of

this section.

TAIL SURFACE INSTALLATION:

For the following step you will need:

The Fuselage

•1 each Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator Set.

•1 each Vertical Fin & Rudder Set

•1 each Formed Elevator Joiner Wire

•1 each Formed Tailwheel Wire

•1 each M2 x 20mm Phillips Head Screw

•2 each M2 Flat Metal Washers

•1 each M2 Hex Nut

•1 each 2mm I. D. Wheel Collar with set screw

•1 each Allen "L" Wrench; for 2mm wheel collar

•10 each CA Hinges; elevator (6), rudder (4)

❑1) Prepare the fuselage to receive the horizontal stabilizer and

vertical fin. At the front of the stab platform, underneath the

covering material, are 2 balsa tail fairing blocks. The tail fairing

blocks are supported (to prevent shipping damage) by extra

spacer blocks, also underneath the covering. These spacer blocks

must be removed to allow installation of the stabilizer and fin.

a) Mark the positions of

the stab and fin on the

fuselage. Both the stab and

fin are 3/8”thick, so make

the marks 3/8”wide.

b) Remove the covering

material between the marks

to reveal the spacer blocks

that must be removed.

c) Cut the spacer

blocks loose with a #11

knife. Slide the spacer

blocks out, leaving the two

covered tail fairing blocks

attached to the fuselage.

d) The remaining tail

fairing blocks should be

handled carefully until the

stabilizer and fin are

permanently glued in place

in later steps.

❑2) Prepare to install the elevator joiner wire into the inboard

leading edges of both elevator halves. Start by first removing a

strip of covering material over the channel and hole that are

already in the leading edges of the elevators for the joiner wire.

Trial fit the joiner wire. Make any small alertations for proper fit.

❑3) Use a toothpick or small dowel to apply epoxy into the

elevator joiner holes and channels in each elevator half. Press the

wire elevator joiner into each elevator half and lay the assembly on

a flat work surface, protected with waxed paper. Wipe off any

excess glue with a paper towel and alcohol. Make sure the leading

edge of the entire elevator assembly is straight, so that it will mate

up properly against the back of the stabilizer. Allow the epoxy to

cure completely before continuing.

❑4) Use a felt tip pen and a small square to mark the centerline

on the top of the stabilizer.

❑5) Test fit the horizontal stabilizer in place into the rear of the

fuselage. Position the stab accurately and make any final

adjustments that might be needed. We have found it helpful

to attach the wing panels to the fuselage before gluing the stab in

place. This provides a good visual aid when checking the stab for

level and also for being square to the wings in the top view. Slip

the stab in place, being careful to align it squarely and that the slot

at the rear of the stab is aligned with the fuselage sides. With the

fuselage on a flat surface, sight the model from the front. The stab

should be absolutely aligned with the wings, without leaning to one

side or the other. If it is leaning, use a small weight or a little

masking tape to straighten it out.

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