SIG Kadet Senior Manuel utilisateur

Wingspan: 80.5 in. (2044.7 mm)

Wing Area: 1180 sq.in. (76.1 dm

)

Length: 64.75 in. (1644.6 mm)

Flying Weight: 6 - 6.5 lbs. (2722-2948 g)

Wing Loading: 11.7 - 12.7 oz./sq.ft. (36-39 g/dm

)

Radio: 4 Channel with 5 Standard Servos

Glow:

.40-.46 cu.in. (6.5-7.5 cc) 2-Stroke Engine

.50-.61 cu.in. (8.1-10 cc) 4-Stroke Engine

Electric:

500 watt (3528-1000kv) Motor

ASSEMBLY MANUAL

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on your purchase of the KADET SENIOR EG

ARF. The KADET SENIOR has a long and illustrious history in R/C

flying. It originally came on the scene in the early 1980s, designed

by AMA Hall of Fame modeler Claude McCullough. The first

KADET SENIOR was a build-it-yourself kit for 3-channel control -

elevator, rudder, and throttle, with no ailerons.

The KADET SENIOR rapidly earned a reputation as the easiest to

fly R/C trainer in the world. Tens of thousands of newcomers

successfully learned to fly R/C with a KADET SENIOR. In

addition, the versatile KADET SENIOR has been “kit bashed” for

use in many other applications besides training - like float flying,

banner and glider tow, aerial cameras, lights for night flying, etc.

Many builders added ailerons to their wing for “full house” control.

The KADET SENIOR’S light wing loading and slow flight

characteristics are perfect for all these applications.

This ARF (almost ready to fly) version of the KADET SENIOR is

100% true to the original’s outstanding flying characteristics, yet

gets you into the air quickly. It also comes with ailerons as

standard equipment! To make the ailerons more effective, the

dihedral angle has been reduced from the original design. To

make the airplane IMAA legal, the wingspan has been increased

to 80-1/4". The increased span also increased the wing area to a

huge 1180 sq. inches! The radio compartment in the fuselage is

roomy enough for almost anything that you might want to carry

aloft. All of this lifting capability still only requires a .40 - .46

2-stroke engine, a .50 - .61 4-stroke engine, or a 500 watt electric

motor, to fly the airplane well.

We urge you to read this assembly manual completely before

assembly. Familiarize yourself with the parts and their assembly

sequences. The successful assembly and flying of this airplane is

your responsibility. If you deviate from these instructions, you may

wind-up with problems later on.

If this is your first R/C Aircraft PLEASE READTHIS!

As already mentioned, the KADET SENIOR ARF is a perfect

model for learning to fly R/C. However, it is important to

understand that if you have never flown an R/C model before, you

will need to find a qualified R/C flight instructor to test fly the

airplane and teach you how to fly it. If this is your first radio control

model airplane, DO NOT attempt to fly it by yourself without a

qualified instructor.

ADDITIONAL ITEMSYOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE

In addition to this kit, you will need the following items to complete

your KADET SENIOR and make it flyable.

RADIO SYSTEM

The KADET SENIOR ARF requires a standard 4-channel radio

system and five standard servos. In addition, you'll need (2) 24"

Servo Extensions and (1) servo Y-Harness for connection of the

two aileron servos to the receiver.

POWER SYSTEM - GLOW OR ELECTRIC?

The biggest decision you will have to make is whether to power

your KADET SENIOR with a glow engine (2-stroke or 4-stroke) or

an electric motor. We have flown the KADET SENIOR on a variety

of both types of power systems, and we make the following

recomendations based on our successful on-field experience.

GLOW POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

ENGINE

We recommend the following size for the KADET SENIOR ARF.

2-STROKE - .40 to .46 cu. in.

4-STROKE - .50 to .61 cu. in.

Don’t let the large size of the KADET SENIOR fool you! Due to it’s

huge wing area, very light wing loading, and slow flight envelope,

these engines will provide ideal power for training or general sport

flying the KADET SENIOR. In fact, we can tell you that we have

flown a SENIOR carrying a half gallon of fuel on cross-country

flights using a 1970s vintage classic K&B 40 (non-schnuerle)

engine, without problem. Don’t overpower the KADET SENIOR!

Whatever brand engine you choose, take the time to carefully

break it in according to the manufacturer's instructions. A good

running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement for the

enjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft.

NOTE:If you intend to use your KADET SENIOR for “heavy lifting”,

or choose a larger engine than listed above, please use caution.

The light wing loading and light structure of the slow flying KADET

SENIOR is designed to handle normal flight loads when using the

above recommended engines for training and sport flying. If larger

engines are used that result in higher speeds, or if heavy loads are

being carried, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to

reinforce the high stress points of the airplane to insure its

structural integrity under those abnormal flight loads.

PROPELLER FOR GLOW

Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for

recommendations on proper propeller size for their engine. In our

experience, most 2-stroke .40-.46 glow engines will fly the KADET

SENIOR very nicely with a 10x6 or 11-6 prop.

ELECTRIC POWER RECOMMENDATIONS

500 watt BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER MOTOR

We use the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 Brushless Outrunner

Motor. dia.: 35mm

length: 54mm

weight: 197g (6.9 oz.)

Kv = 1000

Rm = .020

Lo = 2.6

MOTOR MOUNT

We use the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Large Motor Mount. This

plastic cone-shaped mount provides the exact firewall-to-propeller

distance needed to fit inside the KADET SENIOR cowling, without

modifications. If you go shopping for another brand mount, you will

need a mount that can provide 4-1/2" from the front of the firewall

to the back of the propeller (or spinner if being used).

50-60 amp ESC (Electronic Speed Control)

We use the Castle Creations ICE 50 ESC or the Castle Creations

Phoenix 60 ESC. We typically see amp draw of 30 to 48 amps,

depending on whether a 3 cell or 4 cell lipo is being used, and the

propeller size.

NOTE: The Castle Creations ESCs that we used, as well as the

many of the other ESCs on the market, have a BEC (Battery

Eliminator Circuit) built in. BEC allows you to use the same battery

pack to power both your motor and your radio system, eliminating

the normal radio battery pack. As the dual purpose battery runs

down in flight, the BEC circuit in the ESC will shut down the motor

and leave enough power to operate the radio while you land the

model. However, the BEC feature in many ESCs does not work

with 4 cell lipo battery packs - only 3 cell packs. Check the manual

of your particular ESC to learn if this is true in your case.

If your ESC is only rated for 3 cell operation, you have three

options: 1) fly only 3 cell lipo packs; 2) install the normal radio

battery pack to run the radio full time; or 3) install an aftermarket

BEC that is rated for 3 or 4 cells. We wanted to be able to fly both

3 cell and 4 cell packs interchangeably, so we elected to use the

normal radio battery pack, since we already had it and the little bit

of extra weight is no problem for the KADET SENIOR. We then

disabled the BEC feature of our Castle ESC, since we no longer

needed BEC. Disabling the BEC allows the speed control to be

used with both 3 cell and 4 cell packs without problems. A

common way to disable BEC in many ESCs is to remove or clip the

middle wire from the plug on the ESC that goes into the radio

receiver - see your ESC manual for more guidance.

3 or 4 cell 5300mah LITHIUM-POLYMER BATTERY PACK

With the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 motor we use 3 cell (3S1P)

5300mAh or 4 cell (4S1P) 5300mAh Li-po packs. A 3 cell pack

(11.1 volts) provides flight performance similar to a .40 glow

engine. A 4 cell pack (14.8 volts) provides flight performance

similar to a .46 glow engine. We find that 5300mAh lipo packs

provide between 10 to 18 minutes of flight time, depending on

propeller selection and other factors (quality of pack, throttle

management, outside temperature, etc.). CAUTION: You must

match your propeller size to the cell count of your lipo pack, to

avoid drawing too many amps and damaging your ESC or motor.

PROPELLER FOR ELECTRIC

With a 3-cell (3S1P) 11.1v lipo pack, we recommend an APC

11x7E, APC 11x8E, or APC 12x6E propeller for the Maxx

Products HC3528-1000 motor. All three sizes delivered good

performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .40 glow engine. For

a starting prop we recommend the APC 12x6E. Other brand

propellers of same size and similar design can also be used.

NOTE: Your results may vary due to other factors - the specs of

your individual motor and battery pack, etc. You may need to

experiment with different props to find your best combination.

With a 4-cell (4S1P) 14.8v lipo pack, we recommend an APC

10x6E, APC 10x7E, or APC 11x5.5E propeller for the Maxx

Products HC3528-1000 motor.. All three sizes delivered good

performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .46 glow engine. For

a starting prop we recommend the APC 10x6E. Other brand

propellers of same size and similar design can also be used.

Hi-Maxx "COMBO 40" Complete System

Maxx Products, the manufacturer of the motor that we used in this

manual, markets a "Combo 40" electric motor system. The Maxx

"Combo 40" package consists of (1) Hi-Maxx HC3528-1000

Brushless Outrunner Motor;(1) Prop Adapter Assembly;(1) Castle

Creations 50 Amp Speed Control (ESC); and (1) APC 12-6E

Propeller. It's a good system for the KADET SENIOR.

Maxx Products, Inc.

815 Oakwood Rd.

Lake Zurich, IL 60047

Web: www.maxxprod.com

Ph: 847-438-2233

REQUIRED TOOLS

For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and

materials available:

A selection of glues - SIG Thin, Medium, & Thick CA Glue

CA Accelerator, CA Debonder

SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy

Screwdriver Assortment

Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose

Diagonal Wire Cutters

Small Allen Wrench Assortment

Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits

Hobby Knife with Sharp #11 Blades

Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits

Dremel®Tool With Selection of Sanding & Grinding Bits

Scissors

Sandpaper

Heat Iron & Trim Seal Tool

Masking Tape

Paper Towels

Alcohol and/or Acetone For Epoxy Clean-up

COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST

The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.

Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to

inventory the parts in your kit. Use the check-off boxes ( )

provided in front of each part description. Please also note that

the bolts and nuts required to mount your engine to the motor

mounts are not included and must be purchased separately.

(1) Fuselage

(1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged

(1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged

(1) Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator, hinged

(1) Vertical Fin & Rudder, hinged

(1) Cowling with (4) M2.6 x 10mm PWA Mounting Screws

Main Landing Gear

(2) 5mm dia. Main Landing Gear Wires

(2) 3-1/2" Dia. Main Wheels

(2) Nylon Landing Gear Retaining Straps

(4) M2.5 x 16mm PWA Screws

(2) 5mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacers

(2) 5mm I.D.Wheel Collars with Set Screws

Nose Gear Assembly

(1) 4mm dia. Nose Gear Wire

(1) 3-3/8" Dia. Nose Wheel

(1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bracket

(1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw

(4) M3 x 18mm Mounting Bolts

(4) M3 Flat Washers

(1) 4mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacer

(1) 4mm I.D.Wheel Collar with Set Screw

Spinner Assembly

(1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Cone

(1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Backplate

(1) Prop Adapter Rings

(2) T3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Mounting Screws

Clear Plastic Side Windows

(1) Side Window, Right Front

(1) Side Window, Right Rear

(1) Side Window, Left Front

(1) Side Window, Left Rear

Aileron Servo Hatches

(1) Right Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

(1) Left Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

(4) 3/8” x 3/4” x 3/4” Hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks

(8) M2.6 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo hatches

(4) M2 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo blocks

Control Horns

(4) Nylon Control Horns; for ail(2); elev(1); rud(1)

(2) Nylon Control Horn Bases; for elev(1); rud(1)

(4) M2 x 20mm Mounting Bolts; for rud & elev control horns

(4) M2.6 x 16mm PWA Screws; for aileron control horns

Pushrods

(1) 3/8” dia. x 33-1/2” Wood Elevator Pushrod

(1) 3/8” dia. x 22” Wood Rudder Pushrod

(2) 1/8” O.D. x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubes;

for throttle & nose gear

(4) Heat Shrink Tubing

(1) 2mm x 1-5/8” Pushrod Wire; threaded on one end, with

"Z-bend" on other end; for nose gear

(2) 2mm dia. x 3-5/8” Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end

with "Z-bend" on other end; for ailerons

(2) 2mm dia. x 4” Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end

with "Z-bend" on other end; for rud & elev (servo end)

(2) 2mm dia. x 11-3/4” Pushrod Wires; threaded on one end;

for rud & elev (tail end)

(3) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Studs; for nose gear pushrod

(servo end) & throttle pushrod (both ends)

(7) Metal R/C Links; for ail(2); rud(1); elev(1); thr(2);

nose gear (1)

Miscellaneous

(1) 5/16” x 3/4” x 4-9/16” Balsa Stick, for Fuel Tank Retainer

(2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Nylon Wing Bolts

(1) Aluminum Front Wing Joiner Blade

(1) Steel Rear Wing Joiner Pin

(1) Decal Sheet

Fuel Tank for Glow Engine

(1) Fuel Tank Body - 350cc (11.8 oz.)

(1) Rubber Stopper

(1) Metal Front Clamp

(1) Metal Rear Clamp

(1) M3 x 18mm Bolt

(1) Metal Clunk Pick-Up

(1) Fuel Tubing, inside tank

(1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 60mm

(1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 50mm

(1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 40mm

Engine Mounts for Glow Engine

(1) Right Engine Mount

(1) Left Engine Mount

(4) M3 x 20mm Mounting Bolts

(4) M3 Flat Metal Washers

Your KADET SENIOR ARF is covered with Oracover™, a premium

quality covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by Hanger-9

as Ultracote™.

Colors

Oracover™#10 White (Ultracote #HANU870)

and

Oracover™#29 Transparent Red (Ultracote #HANU950)

Oracover™#59 Transparent Blue (Ultracote #HANU954)

If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or

matching paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobby

dealer or online from Hanger-9.

HowTo Tighten Loose Covering

After you open your KADET SENIOR and take all the covered

parts out of their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle.

This is not unusual and is no cause for alarm.

Your airplane was built and covered in a part of the world which

has relatively high humidity and therefore, the wood was likely

carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the

wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the

process. In turn, this may cause some wrinkles. However,

wrinkles are easy to remove by just using a hobby type heat iron.

Caution: Trying to remove the wrinkles by hastily going over them

with a heat gun can lead to more problems. You should take your

time to carefully go over the entire model with a covering iron, as

we will describe.

We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process.

Cover the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old t-shirt,

to prevent scratching the covering as you work.

After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the

COVERING MATERIAL

correct temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result!

The iron should be set to about 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) as

measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.

If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct

temperature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.

Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over over solid

wood, such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the

covering to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the

covering is getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron

and repeat the test.

If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.

Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find

the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without

forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.

Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the entire

framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is

securely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes

in contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is

worth the effort.

After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn

the temperature of the iron up to approximatelly 300OF - 320OF

(149OC - 160OC). This is the correct temperature for shrinking the

covering material.

Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the

model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the

wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering

is tight with no wrinkles.

If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need to

“ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is

sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat is

applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of

shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each

rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air

escape and the covering to shrink properly.

Caution When Using Heat Guns: You can also use a hobby-type

heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around

seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may

cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful

when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and

side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.

Recommended Temperatures:

To adhere the covering - 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC)

To shrink the covering - 300OF - 320OF (149OC - 160OC)

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

(1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron

(1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron

(1) Right Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

(1) Left Aileron Servo Hatch, covered

(8) M2.6 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo hatches

(4) 3/8” x 3/4” x 3/4” Hardwood Servo Mounting Blocks

(4) M2 x 8mm PWA Screws for servo blocks

(2) Nylon Control Horns

(4) M2.6 x 16mm PWA Screws for control horns

(2) 2mm dia. x 3-5/8” long Pushrod Wires;

threaded on one end with "Z-bend" on the other end

(2) Metal R/C Links

(1) Aluminum Front Wing Joiner Blade

(1) Steel Rear Wing Joiner Pin

(2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2” Nylon Wing Bolts

You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):

(2) Servos, standard size

(2) 24" Servo Extension Chords

(1) Y-Harness Servo Chord

1) Note that the wing panels in your kit come with the ailerons

permanently hinged in place. Give each aileron a gentle pull to the

rear to double check that they are securely glued.

2) The aileron servos will be mounted on the back (uncovered)

side of the plywood Servo Hatches.

a) To prepare the two hatches, use a ruler and sharp pencil to

find the center of each hatch. Draw a center line all the way across

each hatch, as shown.

b) Then draw two parallel lines, one on each side of the center

line, exactly 1-7/32" away from the center line. The total distance

between the two outer parallel lines should be 2-7/16". These lines

mark the outer location limits for the two Hardwood Servo

Mounting Blocks which will be mounted to each hatch.

WING ASSEMBLY

c) Hold one of the servos up against the back side of the hatch,

with the servo arm centered in the pre-cut slot in the hatch. Mark

the bottom of the servo grommets onto the hatch. Then draw a

pencil line across the hatch at this mark (this line runs across the

hatch, perpendicular to the other lines you drew).

d) Use Medium CA or epoxy to glue two Hardwood Servo

Mounting Blocks in position on the hatch, right up against the lines

you drew on the hatch, as shown. Let dry.

e) M2 x 8mm PWA Screws are provided to reinforce the

mounting of the hardwood servo blocks to the hatch. Use a ruler

to find the center of each block and mark it on the covered side of

the hatch. Drill a 1/16" dia. pilot hole about 1/4" deep, through the

hatch and into the mounting block. Install a screw in the hole.

Repeat to install a screw in the other mounting block.

f) Mount your servo to the hatch, using the screws that were

provided with the radio system. Be sure to drill pilot holes in the

mounting blocks before screwing the servo in place.

g) Set up and turn on your radio system to center the servo and

check servo travel. Install the servo arm. Check to see that the

arm does not bind on the slot in the hatch at extremes of travel.

h) Repeat steps 2a) through g) to mount the other aileron servo

to the other hatch.

3) Attach a 24” long servo extension chord onto the end of the

aileron servo wire. Wrap the connection with a piece of plastic

tape to insure that it won’t come unplugged.

4) Inside the aileron servo bay in the bottom of the wing panel you

will see a short balsa stick with a string tied to it. This string will be

used to pull the aileron servo chord through the wing. You will find

the other end of the string tied to another balsa stick that is inside

the small round hole in the bottom wing sheeting, right next to the

end rib.

a) In the servo bay, gently break the small balsa stick loose

from the wing structure. Pull it out and unwrap the extra string.

Remove the wood from the string and disgard it. Tie the end of the

string securely to the end of the servo wire, as shown.

b) Break loose the balsa stick that has the opposite end of the

string tied to it - from its location at the inboard end of the wing

panel. Begin carefully pulling the string and the aileron chord

through the wing towards the end of the wing panel. You may

occasionally feel like the wire has become stuck inside the wing.

This is simply the plug on the end of the servo wire hitting the side

of one of the holes in the wing ribs. Gently work the string back

and forth from both ends until the plug slips through the hole.

Sometimes the servo plug comes through all the ribs the first time

without getting hung up, and other times it seem like it gets hung

up on every rib. Be patient and don’t try to force it. The holes in

the ribs are large enough to get any common servo plug through.

c)When the servo plug appears in the round hole, reach in with

a narrow needle nose pliers or a hemostat and grasp the plug and

pull it out of the hole. Pull the servo lead fully out of the hole,

leaving very little slack in the aileron servo bay. Remove the string

from the servo plug and temporarily tape the plug to the wing

surface so it can’t fall back inside the wing.

d) Repeat this step to pass the other aileron servo wire through

the other wing panel.

e) Install the hatches/servos in place in the wing using the

M2.6 x 8mm PWA Screws provided.

5) From the kit contents locate (2) Nylon Control Horns, (4) M2.6

x 16mm PWA Screws for mounting the control horns, (2) 2mm dia.

x 92mm (3-5/8”) long Pushrod Wires (threaded on one end with

"Z-bend" on other end), and (2) Metal R/C Links.

6) Install a Nylon Control Horn on the bottom of the aileron. Make

sure the horn is directly in line with the servo arm, and that the

base of the horn is right at the front edge of the aileron.

a) Hold the control horn in correct location on the aileron and

use a pencil or sharp awl to mark the mounting hole locations for

the control horn onto the surface of the aileron.

b) Drill a 3/62” dia. (or #56) pilot hole into the aileron at both

marked locations. Do not drill completely through the aileron, just

far enough to accept the mounting screws.

c) Mount the control horn in place using two M2.6 x 16mm

PWA Screws.

d) Repeat this process for the other aileron.

7) Before installing the pushrods you should hook your two aileron

servos up to your radio system to check their operation.

a) Plug the two servo wires into the leads of a standard

Y-Harness. Then plug the single end of the Y-Harness into the

aileron slot in your receiver.

b) Turn on the radio system and center the aileron trim lever on

the transmitter.

c) Check to see if the aileron servo arms are both perfectly

centered on each servo - the arms should be perpendicular to the

servo body when the servo it at neutral. If necessary take the

servo arm off the servo and reposition to make it perpendicular.

Don’t forget to put the retaining screw back in the arm when done!

d) Now move the transmitter aileron stick to test for correct

direction of travel and full motion of the servos. Note that the

aileron servos should be moving in opposite directions to each

other.

8) Installing the Aileron Pushrods

a) Thread the metal R/C Link on to the threaded end of the

aileron pushrod. Thread it on about halfway for now, allowing for

equal adjustment in either direction.

b) The end of the pushrod with the Z-Bend is the end that

attaches to the servo arm. Install it in the last hole in the servo arm

- the furthest hole from center. Note, you will need to drill out the

hole in the servo arm with a drill bit to accept the pushrod wire.

Use a #49 (.073”) , a 5/64”, or a 2mm dia. drill bit.

c) With the aileron servo in neutral position, hold the R/C Link

up against the side of the nylon control horn on the aileron.

Determine if the length of the aileron pushrod needs to be adjusted

so that the aileron is in neutral position when the servo is neutral.

Adjust accordingly.

d) When you have the pushrod length approximately correct,

snap the Metal R/C Link into control horn, using second hole from

the bottom of the horn.

e) Turn the radio system on and double check that the aileron

servo is in neutral position. Readjust the length of the aileron

pushrod again if necessary so the aileron is also perfectly neutral.

f) Test the entire range of movement of the aileron. The

movement should be smooth with good centering back to neutral.

If there is any binding, find the cause and fix it now.

g) Refer ahead in this manual to the section titled CONTROL

SURFACE MOVEMENTS to learn the recommended amount of

aileron travel. Use the EPA (End Point Adjustment) feature of your

transmitter to achieve the recommended amount of aileron travel.

h) Don’t forget to check that the ailerons are moving in the

correct direction. Looking at the wing from the rear, moving the

transmitter stick to the "left" aileron should cause the left aileron to

move up and the right aileron to move down. If the movement is

in the wrong direction, use the servo-reversing feature on your

transmitter to reverse the direction of the aileron servos.

i) Repeat this process for the other aileron.

9) Test fit the two finished wing panels together with the Aluminum

FrontWing Joiner Blade and the Steel Rear Wing Joiner Pin. Then

test fit the wing assembly on the fuselage. The tab that is formed

by the two panels at the center, leading edge, fits into the cutout in

the windshield former. At the rear, two 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" nylon wing

bolts secure the wing to the fuselage. If you encounter any

difficulties mounting the wing to the fuselage, find the problem and

fix it now. Then remove the wing from the fuselage and set it aside.

NOTE:

Any references to left or right, refers to your left and

right as if you were seated in the cockpit of the airplane.

The KADET SENIOR ARF is a large airplane and is very

adequately powered with the 2-stroke or 4-stroke engine sizes

suggested. The airplane does not benefit from being over-

powered. Doing this tends to put undue stress on the airframe

without any real gain in performance. This airplane was always

intended to "fly on the wing", not on excessive power.

Note that the engine installation for either 2-stroke or 4-stroke

powerplants is basically the same. The only differences being in

the throttle arm locations on the carburetors and the muffler

locations. The factory-installed throttle pushrod sleeve in the

fuselage has been placed to exit the firewall on the right side of the

fuselage. Note that it is not yet glued in place and is removable.

This positioning is typical for the throttle arm location on most

2-stroke engines. If you plan to use a 4-stroke engine, it may be

necessary to relocate the throttle pushrod sleeve over to the left

side of the firewall to line-up with the 4-stroke engine’s throttle arm.

This is easy to do, using a long 1/4" dia. drill bit to drill a new hole

(aligned with the engine’s throttle arm) through the firewall and

through the second fuel tank support former behind it.

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

(1) Right Glass-Filled Engine Mount

(1) Left Glass-Filled Engine Mount

(4) M3 x 20mm Phillips-Head Mounting Bolts

(4) M3 Flat Metal Washers

(1) 1/8” od x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Throttle Pushrod Tube

(2) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Studs for throttle pushrod

(2) Metal R/C Links

(1) 350cc (11.8 oz) Fuel Tank Assembly

(1) 5/16" x 3/4" x 4-9/16" Balsa Stick

(1) Cowling

(4) M2.6 x 10mm PWA Screws for cowl mounting

(1) Spinner Assembly, 2” dia., black

You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):

(1) R/C Engine and suitable Propeller

(4) Socket-Head Engine Mounting Bolts

(4) Lock Nuts for engine mounting bolts

(4) Flat Metal Washers for engine mounting bolts

(2) 6" lengths of Silicone Fuel Line Tubing

(1) Silicone Sealer (common kitchen & bath type)

ENGINE AND MOUNTS

The engine shown in these instructions, is a typical .46 size

2-stroke engine. The engine is mounted in the upright position,

providing easy access for field adjustments.

1) Bolt the engine mounts in place on the front of the firewall with

four M3 x 20mm mounting bolts and four M3 flat metal washers.

Leave the mounting bolts slightly loose for the moment - do not

tighten them until the next step.

2) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine mounts. If

the beams of the mounts are too far apart to fit your engine, slide

the mounts closer together. If they are already too close together,

slide them apart. Notice that the holes in the mounts for the bolts

are slotted to allow you to adjust the mounts to fit your engine.

After you get the mounts in correct position, tighten all four

mounting bolts, securing the engine mounts on the firewall.

GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION

Then take width and length measurements off your engine and

transfer them to the top of the cowl, using the centerline as the

base reference point. The simple pattern shown in the previous

photo was quickly made by measuring the diameter of the engine

head and the overall length of the engine. It will serve as an

undersize starting point for removal of material.

2) A Dremel®Tool, or similar powered hand-tool, with a 5/8" dia.

coarse grit sanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use for

removing the material inside the lines quickly, easily and

accurately. However, if you do not have access to such a power

tool, you can cut the opening with a drill, a hobby knife, and a file

- by first drilling a series of almost touching holes inside the pattern

lines (1/8” dia. works well); then using the knife to cut through the

connecting material between each hole; and finally finishing the

edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block.

Be aware that there are no hard and fast "rules" for the exact

perfect shape for openings in a cowling. Most important, make it

big enough to provide the access you need to the engine. The

best method is to "sneak up" on these openings, continually trial

fitting the cowling over the engine until it finally fits properly. Once

the opening is big enough for you to slip it over the engine and

place it in correct location on the model, then continue modifying

the opening as needed to provide access to the needle valve and

the fuel line tubing at the carb.

3) When satisfied with the opening in the cowling, mount the cowl

to the fuselage with the four M2.6 x 10mm PWA Screws provided.

a) Start by placing the cowl over the engine and in correct

position on the front of the fuselage.

b) Mount the 2” dia. spinner on the engine. Note that the

spinner backplate may not fit tightly on the propeller shaft of your

particular engine. Four different sizes of plastic adaptor rings are

included with the spinner to “sleeve” the backplate. Try each ring

until you find the one that fits your engine propeller shaft. It should

fit smoothly with no play. Then fit the spinner backplate onto the

prop shaft and over the adapter ring, all the way to the rear of the

shaft, against the engine. To hold the backplate in place, mount a

propeller on the shaft and hold it in place against the spinner

backplate using the engine propeller washer and propeller nut.

c) Move the cowling back into proper position on the fuselage,

leaving a 3/32”to 1/8”gap between the front of the cowling and the

back of the spinner, for clearance. Tape the cowling in correct

position using a low-tack tape.

d) At the rear of the cowl there are four small pre-drilled

mounting holes - two on each side of the airplane. Use a 1/16" drill

bit to make a guide hole through one of the cowl mounting holes

and into the fuselage side. Install an M2.6 x 10mm PWA Screw

into the drilled hole and screw it in place - do not over-tighten the

screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowl and make any

adjustments needed with tape to hold it in place. Then on the

opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" guide hole and

install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the remaining

two cowl mounting holes. Remove the tape.

4) Remove the cowling and set it aside for now, while installing the

throttle pushrod.

THROTTLE PUSHROD

Locate the following parts from the kit contents:

(1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage)

(1) 1/8” od x 19-3/4” Nylon Inner Throttle Pushrod Tube

(2) M2 x 7/8” Threaded Studs

(3) Metal R/C Links

1) The first step is to install your throttle servo in the fuselage,

using the rubber grommets, eyelets, and screws that came with

the servo. Mount the servo in the front opening in the servo tray,

lengthwise across the fuselage. The servo arm should be towards

the right side of the airplane, as shown in the following picture.

2) The152047 uo7e429.4(The ser)-29.9(v)24.8(o)00.0Q eo5(im6he ser)-29.9(v)24.8(E f)29.7(ollo)14.8(wing pir)-29.9(96.-1.27351 Tf6i)9.

3) Cut off the front end of the sleeve approximately 1-1/2” away

from the center of the throttle arm. Glue the sleeve to the firewall.

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