Mill-right M3 KIT Manuel utilisateur

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE MILLRIGHT CNC MODEL M3 KIT

Version 1.11

Important safety rules for operating your MillRight CNC M3:

Never place your hands near a spinning end mill or bit.

Unplug the router before changing cutting tools.

Always wear eye and hearing protection while operating your machine.

Always run dust collection or wear a mask while performing a milling operation.

Do not leave the machine unattended while running a milling operation.

Do not operate your machine while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.

Do not place your hands between the bed and frame while the machine is moving.

Visually inspect wires prior to power up to prevent short circuits.

Ensure work pieces are properly secured before running a milling operation.

Always wear the red tinted safety glasses when operating the laser (if equipped).

Research material considerations prior to machining or lasing (if equipped).

Page 1 of 35

Welcome to the assembly instructions for the MillRight CNC Model M3 kit. Assembly will

take between eight hours and a weekend depending on your experience, tools, and work pace.

Don’t get in a rush. Although you are probably eager to get your machine together, it will pay

off to take your time and have fun along the way. We encourage you to read the instructions all

the way through first. This will help you understand how the step you are working on ties into

the next. After that, follow these instructions step by step. If you get stuck or just have general

feedback, please email us at [email protected]. We strive to email back within a day.

Tools Required:

Phillips Screwdrivers, #3, #2, and #1 sizes

Small Adjustable Wrench

Needle nose pliers

8mm socket with socket driver (preferred) or ratchet and extension (acceptable)

10mm open end wrench

Allen wrench (also known as hex keys), sizes M1.5, M2, M3 (set screws and other

hardware socket sizes can vary)

Basic voltage meter (needed to set stepper driver current)

Hammer (needed to nail one wire retaining clip and tee nuts)

Note that these are just the minimum tools recommended to assemble the kit.

Items included in basic kit: (Materials in upgrades not listed below)

(1) Set of laser cut aluminum plates including (1) X Axis Bearing Plate, (1) Z Axis Bearing Plate, (2)

Y Axis Bearing Plates, (1) Y Belt Anchor Plate, (1) Z Spring Stud Bracket

(1) Precision cut MDF frame set including front, rear, left, and right pieces

(12) V wheel kits with each including (2) 625-2RS bearings, (1) Polycarbonate V Wheel, (1) M5

Screw or M5 Bolt, (1) M5 washer, (1) M5 Nylock nut.

(6) Fixed aluminum spacers, ¼’’ (6.35mm) long (In bag with V Wheels)

(6) Eccentric spacers, ¼’’ (6.35mm) long (In bag with V Wheels)

(1)

24 Volt Power Supply, adapter to break out barrel plug to individual wires, small length of wire

for connection from power supply adapter to CNC shield

International buyers must supply their own plug

(3) NEMA 17 Stepper Motors

(2) NEMA 17 Steel L Bracket Mounts (you only need two, the Z motor mounts to the X plate)

(1) Generic Uno (electronic controller board)

(1) Generic CNC Shield with (4) DRV8825 Stepper Motor Drivers (one extra)

(1) Fan for cooling the Stepper Motor Drivers (always point it close to the drivers!)

(2) V Slot Rails 2020

(1) V Slot Rail 2040

(1) MDF bed with (16) pronged tee nuts with #10-32 threads (nuts in hardware kit)

(10) 90 degree cast aluminum corner brackets. NOTE:Beginning in January 2017, some kits started

shipping with slots in the frame to allow for clearance of the tabs on the corner brackets. If your

kit is like this, then (8) corner brackets will still have all tabs and (2) will have the tabs ground

down on one side. The two with tabs ground down are for mounting the idler bearings

(10) 625-2RS bearings (In bag with corner brackets; for X, Y, Z idlers, not related to V wheels)

(4) Linear rod mounts

Page 2 of 35

(2) Chromed, hardened linear rods, 8mm diameter

(4) Linear bearing blocks for 8mm rod

(3) Pulleys, GT2 profile, wide (In bag with hardware)

(3.14) Meters of GT2 belt, 9mm wide [ (1) 900mm, (1) 1200mm, (1) 1040mm section ]

(3) Aluminum spacers, 10 mm long, 8mm OD, 5.1mm ID (for spacing of Z pulleys) (In bag with

hardware)

(1) Extension spring (In bag with hardware)

(1) Hardware set (See the resources section of www.millrightcnc.com for a hardware matrix)

The contents of each order are independently checked by two people to confirm that everything is

included. If you find you are missing something, contact us at suppor[email protected]

Overview of build steps:

V Wheel Kit Assembly

Y Axis Stage Assembly

Z Axis Bearing Plate Assembly

X Axis Stage Assembly

X & Z Axis Assembly Connection to Y Axis Assembly

X & Y Axis Motor Mounting and Belt Routing

Homing Switch Installation (only if you ordered this upgrade)

Rigidity Kit Installation (only if you ordered this upgrade)

Controller Mounting and Software Configuration

Stepper Drivers, Stepper Connections, and Powering Up

V WHEEL KIT ASSEMBLY

Locate the (12) V Wheel Kits included with the basic kit. NOTE: Those that ordered the rigidity

kit upgrade should assembly the extra (2) V wheels that you have now. Take the wheel body and

snap (1) 625 bearing into one side. Run an M5 bolt through the inside hole of that same bearing,

then flip it over in your hand. Slide an M5 washer that comes in the V Wheel Kit down over the

threads of the M5 Bolt. This helps properly locate the washer on the race of the bearing. DO

NOT FORGET TO INSTALL THIS WASHER BETWEEN THE TWO BEARINGS, OR THE V WHEEL WILL NOT

SPIN WHEN TIGHTENED AND WILL BE VERY HARD TO GET BACK APART. While leaving the bolt in,

snap another 625 bearing into the wheel. It may take some effort as sometimes it’s a pretty tight

fit. Set the assembled V Wheel Kits to the side for use in the next steps.

Page 3 of 35

Y AXIS STAGE ASSEMBLY

Locate the Y Axis Bearing plates and (8) of the V wheels that you assembled in the last step.

Grab one of the V wheels and one of the Y Axis

Bearing Plates. Install an M5 bolt through one of

the holes indicated in the picture to the right.

Now install a non-adjustable 6.35mm (quarter inch) spacer on the opposite side of the plate,

sliding it over the threads of the bolt. Install an assembled V Wheel onto the threads of the bolt,

then tighten it down using an M5 nylock nut.

Using an Allen wrench or Phillips screwdriver

(depending on if your kit came with allen or phillips

head M5 screws) and 8mm socket, get these snug

now. Don’t torque too much, just a bit of tension is

fine. If you are straining as you tighten, it is FAR too

tight! The wheel should still turn fairly freely once

tightened. If it’s really hard to spin, back off the nut

a tad. Install another V wheel the same way in the

other hole indicated by the arrow.

Now, take an eccentric spacer and put it in one

of the holes opposite those installed that you just

installed. Spin the eccentric spacer in that hole

and observe how the bolt hole in the spacer gets

closer then farther away from the V wheel kits

that you already installed. This will allow you to

snug up the bearings to the V rail after installing

them. Leave the eccentric spacer in its loosest position (bolt hole farthest away from the other

bearings). Now run an M5 socket head bolt through the plate, then the spacer, then install a V

wheel and loosely install an M5 nylock nut. You should end up with the bolt head, then Y Axis

Bearing Plate, then eccentric spacer, the V wheel, then an M5 nylon nut. Do NOT tighten these

very much yet because you will need to be able to spin the spacer soon. Install another

eccentric spacer and V wheel in the other hole just like you did this one.

Repeat these steps to install the V wheels on the other Y Axis Bearing Plate. Keep the assembled

Y Axes Bearing Plates nearby.

Locate both 2020 V rails as well as the front frame piece (long rectangular piece with four holes in

the middle). Notice the small half circle notch at the bottom of this piece. If that notch is at the

bottom left, then you are looking at the front side of the piece. Check out the middle picture on

page 22 to see the correct orientation of this piece when installed.

Page 4 of 35

Using a flat surface, flip the front MDF frame part

upside down and slide an M5 washer on a self-

drilling screw, then start threading the self-

drilling screw into the appropriate hole of the

MDF frame. Once the head of the screw starts to

poke through the other side, slide the center hole

of the 2020 V rail over the screw point.

Press the V rail against the MDF frame, while

holding it down against the flat surface and keep

driving the screw in. Get it snug, but not super

tight. The machine is designed for the top of the

Y Axis V Rails to flush up to the top of the front

frame piece, so flipping it upside down and

using a flat surface will help flush things up.

You should now have both 2020 V Rails screwed

into the front frame piece. Grab one of the Y

Axis Bearing Plates that you already installed the

V wheel bearings on, and slide it onto the right

V rail. Notice that the Y Axis Bearing Plate has

one side that is longer than the other. The

longer side (the one with four total holes, two of

which have eccentric spacers in them), will go

towards the outside. The bolts on the outside

wheels should be loose enough to allow you to

spin the eccentric spacer with a 10mm wrench,

but not “sloppy loose.” Now spin the eccentric

spacer on one of the v wheels so as to tighten

the V wheel into the V channel in the V rail. It’s

probably already almost tight enough.

Page 5 of 35

Tighten both eccentric spacers an equal amount. These wheels will need very little tightening with

the spacer. TAKE VERY CAREFUL NOTE OF THE FOLLOWING, OR YOU WILL CAUSE YOURSELF A

PROBLEM LATER. DO NOT OVERTIGTHEN THE V WHEELS INTO THE V RAIL. THE V WHEELS ARE

MADE OF A VERY TOUGH PLASTIC (ACETAL OR POLYCARBONTE), BUT THEY WILL DEFORM IF

TIGTHENED TOO MUCH, LEAVING YOU WITH

CLUNKY MOTION WHICH WILL RESULT IN POOR

CUTS. SET THE TENSION SUCH THAT YOU CAN

DRIVE THE ENTIRE Y AXIS BEARING PLATE BY

ROLLING A WHEEL WITH YOUR FINGER BUT LOOSE

ENOUGH THAT THE WHEEL WILL SLIP IN THE RAIL

IF YOU LIGHTLY HOLD THE Y AXIS BEARING PLATE

WHILE YOU SPIN A WHEEL. Slide the bearing plate

back and forth to make sure that it glides

smoothly along the rail. If the wheels are too

tight, loosen the spacer a bit and recheck. Note

that, if over time, you find the wheels develop a

flat spot over time from being too tight, you can

loosen the wheel and it will move back to its

circular shape in a few hours.

Now find the back frame piece (the other long

rectangular piece). Slide the Y Axis Bearing Plates

that you just installed onto the rails all the way to

the Front Frame Piece. Hold the Back Frame Piece

upside down and cantilever the Front Frame Piece

and Y Axis Bearing Plates over the edge of your

table so the other side of the rail flushes up to the

Back Frame Piece. Slide an M5 washer onto a

self-drilling screw and place it in the appropriate hole. If it’s snug in that hole, continue to turn it

through the Back Frame Piece until the drill point of the screw is sticking out. Slide the tip of that

screw into the center tap how of the V Rail. Do the same with the other rail. Grab the rail firmly

with your hand as you tighten. The torque of threading the screw tends to cause the rail to spin,

which you want to prevent. As you start to get good bite into the V rail with both screws, you can

set this assembly in its natural position (as it will be on the completed machine) in order to make

Page 6 of 35

tightening and alignment easier. Remember that the top frame piece should flush up to the top

of the V rail. Make sure it ends up that way when you finish tightening the screws. Now confirm

that the rails are close to parallel. This shouldn’t be a problem, but the holes sometimes allow

for a bit of a free fit for the screws, so you will want to check this and adjust accordingly. If you

have a square, you can check that the rail and the frame pieces are perpendicular, but this

usually just arises naturally from how it all goes together. Flip them back over and sit it down on

a known flat surface. If there is a bit of rock back and forth, you need to slightly loosen one or

more of the self-drilling screws

Keep this close and find the MDF bed. Lay the bed top down so you can see all of the pockets

that look like this:

Page 7 of 35

Flip the bed back over so the Y Axis Assembly is upside

down. Using your hammer, tap the T-nuts into the 16

holes labelled “A” in the above diagram.

Now find the Y Axis Belt Anchor Plate. Slide an M6 washer onto an M6x25 screw then put the

bolt through the plate in the orientation shown below. If you were looking down at the plate

in this orientation, you should see the bolt heads. In this orientation, the M6 screw needs to

go through an M6 flat washer, through the plate, then through a split-lock washer, then

secured with an M6 nut. Get a final tighten on the nuts now. These don’t screw to anything

else, they just serve as studs to anchor the belt.

Put the Y Belt Anchor Plate against the bed so the heads of

the M6 bolts are laying inside the holes marked “D” in the

center of the above picture. Line up the holes on the

corners of the Y Belt Anchor Plate with the holes marked

“B” that form a square around the holes marked “D.” Slide

an M5 washer onto a 5/8” wood screw, then screw it into

the bed in order to secure the Anchor Plate to the bed. DO

NOT OVER-TORQUE THESE OR THE SCREW WILL RIP THE

HOLE OUT. Pick one corner to start, and leave the screw

alittle loose. Line up the hole on the opposite corner,

then screw it in. Put a final torque on the four wood

screws once you have them all in. A contributor to this

kit’s development has suggested inserting the screw

fully, pulling it out, putting a couple drops of

superglue (not included) in the hole, and

immediately rethreading the screw in the

hole. This is intended to prevent the screws

from vibrating loose over time.

You will now install the Bed onto the Y Axis

Assembly. Orient the bed so that it holes are

facing up, like in the diagram above. The holes

designated as “C” above are recesses for the

bolt heads of the V Wheel Kit bolts that are

on the Y Axis Bearing plate. Flip the Y Axis

Page 8 of 35

Assembly upside down and

lay it onto the bed so that

these bolt heads lay in

those recesses. Looking at

the bed in the orientation

above, the Front Frame

Piece should be towards the

top. Notice that each Y Axis

Bearing Plate has three

small holes left. Line these

holes in the plate up with

the small pilot holes. Slide

an M5 washer onto the

wood screws, then begin to

thread it into the holes. Do

not tighten the wood

screws down until you get

all the screws in both

bearing plates (six total,

three in each plate). Check

as you tighten the screws

down that the bed flushes up

to the front of back Frame

Piece. It should not be

canted or twisted. After you

finish mounting the bed, flip

the Y axis assembly back

over and slide it back and

forth to ensure that the

motion is smooth. If not,

either the eccentric spacers

are too tight or the bearing

plates were a bit cocked

relative to one another

when you torqued them down tight.

Z AXIS BEARING PLATE ASSEMBLY

We will now assemble the Z Axis plate. This is the plate that will carry your router or spindle

up and down. The diagram to the below shows the FRONT of the Z Axis plate. Notice that the

Page 9 of 35

position of the holes marked (A) being

slightly left of center will help you orient

the plate properly. The Z Axis plate was

designed to accommodate some of the

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