Husqvarna Classica 90 Manuel utilisateur

Survey

the

machine

Hance

Thread tension

dial

Thread

guide

Thread

tension discs

Thread

take-up

lever

Presser

foot

pressure

dial

Front

thread

guide

with

thread

take-up

spring

Sewing

light

Needle

bar

Needle

plate

(stitch

plate)

Feed

dog

13.

Free

arm

14.

Bobbin

case

Thread

cutter

16.

Shuttle

(hook)

17.

Door

for

shuttle

18.

Base

plate

19.

Presser

bar

lever

20,

Needle

clamp

screw

21.

Presser

bar

22.

Presser

foot

ankle

23.

Presser

foot

24.

Drop

feed

button

Recommended

stitch

length

Spool

pins

Stitch

length

dial

Stitch

selector

Handwheel

Bobbin winding

spindle

Thread

guide

for

bobbin

winding

Main

switch

Reverse

feed

button

Socket

for

foot

control

Thread

cutter

Screw

for

edge

guide

Unpacking

Place

the

machine

the

table and

remove

the

packing.

Wipe

the

machine

clean

before

you

start

sewing,

and

especially

careful

with

the

stitch

plate

and

the

space

around

the

needle.

The

machine

equipped

with

number

presser

feet

and

these

are

packed

two

plastic

bags.

reserve

the

right

change

the

equipment

the machine

without

prior

notice.

Putting

the

machine

away

Pull

the

plugs

out

the

wall

outlet

and the

socket

the machine.

Wind

the

cords

around

the

foot

control

and

place

the

foot control

over

the

free

arm.

Lower

the

presser

foot.

—

10;

11.

12.

25.

26.

27.

28.

29.

30.

31.

32.

33.

34.

35.

36.

Connecting

the

foot

control

Place

the

foot

control

under the

table.

Insert

the

foot

control

plug

with

the

marking

upward

into

the

socket

the

right-hand

side

the

machine.

Connecting

the

wall

outlet

The

voltage

(V)

and

frequency

(Hz)

are

indicated

under

the

base

the

machine. Check that

these

values

corre

spond

those

the

electricity

source

before

connecting

the machine.

Free

arm

Trouser

legs

and

sleeves

can

drawn

onto

the free

arm,

making

easy

sew, mend

patch

these

parts.

The

free

arm

also

makes

much

easier

attach

collars

and

cuffs

well

sew

children’s

clothes,

darn

socks

and

stockings

the machine.

Main

switch

The

light

and

the machine are

turned

pressing

the

inner

part

the

main

switch.

Reverse

feed

button

As long

you

keep

the

reverse

feed

button

depressed

the machine

will

sew

reverse

but

will

revert

ordinary

sewing

soon

you

release

it.

Excellent

for

fastening

_______

off.

Presser

bar

lever

means

the

presser

bar

lever

the

rear

the

machine, the

presser

foot

can

raised

and

lowered.

When

raising,

the

presser

foot

will

remain

the raised

position,

but

the

height

can

increased

by 3

pushing

the

presser

bar lever upward

and

holding

this

position. This

useful

when

you

want

put

garments

with

thick

seams

under

the

presser

foot.

The

presser

foot

should be

lowered

while

sewing.

Presser

foot

pressure

The

presser

foot

pressure

can

adjusted

with

the

aid

amarked

dial

the

left

side

the machine.

Normal

pressure

obtained

setting

the

dial

the

white

dot.

The

higher

the

number,

the

greater

the

pressure.

setting

the

dial

the

symbol

the

presser

foot

pressure

completely

released.

This

setting should

used

when

free-hand

sewing

with

the

darning

foot

(extra

accessory),

i.e.

darning, monogramming,

machine

embroidery

and

quilting.

you

turn

the

graded

dial for

the

presser

foot

pressure

the

lowest

number,

possible

darn

with

presser

foot

Lower

the

feed

dog

and

move

the

fabric forward,

back

ward

and

sideways

hand.

Lowering

the

feed

dog

You

lower

the

feed

dog

pushing

the

upper

part

the

push-button.

order

raise

the

feed

dog

again

push

the

lower

part.

The

feed

dog

should

lowered

for

certain

type

darning

and

when

sewing

buttons.

also

easier

get

thick

garments

under

the

presser

foot

the

teeth

the

feed

dog

are

not

above

the

level

the

stitch

olate.

emoviflg

the

bobbin

case

open

the door

front

the

shuttle

means

the

small

recesS

the

left

side.

GriP

the

bobbin

case

with

the

thumb

and

index finger

that

the

latch

depressed

and

pull

the

bobbin

case

out.

The

bobbin

will

remain

the

case

long

the

latch

dePress&J When

you

release

the

latch,

the

bobbin

will

released.

Bobbin

winding

Turn

the

empty

bobbin

until

the

small

round

mark

one

side

outward.

Slide

the

bobbin

onto

the

bobbin

winding

spindle

located

the

right

side

the

machine.

Raise

the

presser

foot

and

pull

the

thread

from

the

thread

guide

the

needle

clamp

through

the

thread

guide

the

right

the

machine

the

bobbin.

Wind

the

thread

around

the

bobbin a

couple

times,

eginnmg

from

underneath,

you

are

using

metal

nreSser

foot,

allow

the

thread

through

the

eye

the

eedle

and

under

the

presser

foot.

Never

run

the

thread

direct

from

the

eye

the

needle

the

bobbin

because

iou

will

run

the

risk

bending the

needle.

Hold

the

thread

and

lightly

depress

the

foot

control.

soon

as wind

ing

starts

you

can

release

the

thread

end.

threadIng

the

lower

thread

When

the

bobbin

winding

finished,

place

the

bobbin

its

case

with

the

marking

upward.

The

thread

should

run

shown

the

figure.

Slide

the

thread

into

the

slot

the

edge

the

bobbin

case.

Pull

the

thread

under

the

tension

spring.

Check

that

the

bobbin

rotates

the

direction

the

arrow

(clock

wise)

when

the

thread

pulled.

The

thread

must

pulled

the

direction

the

spring,

otherwise

the spring

will

overloaded.

Insertion

the

bobbin

case

Slide

the

thread

behind

the

projection

the

bobbin

case

and

the

right.

Put

the

bobbin

case

into

place.

Press

the

bobbin

case

until

clicks

ensure

that

fits

properly.

The

thread

cutter

located

the

left of

the

bobbin

case.

Hold

the

thread

end

and

draw

the

thread

from

underneath

and

toward

the

thread

cutter.

doing

the

thread

will

cut

off

and

kept

place. Shut the

door.

Threading

the

upper thread

Raise

the

presser

foot.

Check

that the

needle

its

highest

position.

Place

the

spool

thread

the

left

spool

and

thread the

machine

for

sewing.

Slide

the

thread

into

thread

guide

the

upper

arm

and

draw

upward.

Then

draw

the

thread

the

front

between

the

tension

discs

and

down

around

thread

guide

Continue

threading

drawing

the

thread

from

the

right

into

the

slot

thread take-up

lever

and draw

down

the

needle,

ensuring

that

goes

through

thread

guide

Thread

the

needle

from

the

front.

Due

the

white

color

the

presser

foot

ankle

the

needle-eye

clearly

seen

and

the

threading

the

needle

7, is

easier.

Pull

the

thread

under

the

presser

foot

about

(6”)

toward the

rear.

Thread

cutter

the

back

the

presser

bar

you

will

find

notch,

the

thread

cutter,

means

which you

can

easily

cut

off

the

threads

when

you

have

finished

sewing.

Tension

the

upper

thread

The

thread tension

dial

graduated

from

0—10.

The

higher

the

number, the

tighter

the

tension.

Normal

thread

tension

obtained

setting

the

dial

the

white index.

may

necessaty

adapt

the

thread

tension

the

thickness

the

thread

and

the

type

fabric.

There

also

mark

the

thread

tension

dial

for

the

tension

that

suitable

for

making

buttonholes,

for

satin

stitching,

topstitching,

embroidering,

etc.

Correct

and

incorrect

thread

tension

order

easily

understand

the

importance

correct

thread tension,

you

can

try

different

thread tensions

sewing

scrap

fabric. Begin

using

excessively

loose

tension,

i.e.

set

the

tension

dial

near

0”.

The

lower

thread

lies

straight

and

the

upper

thread

drawn

under

neath the

fabric.

If,

however,

you

set

the

dial

the

highest

number,

the

opposite

will

occur,

the

seam

may

pucker.

The

thread

tension

correct

when

the

threads

interlock

the

middle

both

layers

fabric.

Please

note

that

even

the

best

quality

thread

may

vary

thickness.

When

sewing

fine

fabrics,

the

knot

may

sometimes

visible.

Needle

and

thread

The

machine

delivered

with

spool

synthetic

thread,

which

can be

used

for

all

types

fabrics and

most

seams.

Mercerized

cotton

can

also

used.

For

buttonholes,

topstitching

and

darning,

embroidery

silk

recommended.

Always

use

needles

coded 130705K.

The

needle

fitted

the

machine

No.

80.

Two

needles

for

sewing

stretch

fabric

and

denim

are

specially

designed

for

the

purpose.

Always

use

the stretch

ieedle

when

sewing

stretch

fabrics

and

soft

leather.

Changing

the

needle

ven

the

needles

look

alike

there

can

slight

varia

ions

which

can

affect

the sewing

result.

sure

use

ugh

quality

needles.

DnIy

completely

undamaged

needle

will

give

perfect

5ewing

results.

Therefore,

change

the

needle

you

have

slightest

reason

believe

that

bent

that

the

)oint

damaged.

remove

the

needle,

loosen

the

;crew

the

needle

clamp.

With

the

flat

side

the

shank

way

from

you,

insert

the

new

needle

into

the

needle

;ocket

far

will

go.

Tighten

the

screw

with

the

;crewdriver.

Stitch

selection

The

different

stitches

Ofl

the

pattern

scale

are

indicat

with

letters

and

symbols.

The

tjtGh

set

turning

the

stitch

selector

the

letter jndicating

the

required

stitch.

you

have

the

choice

three

different

zig-zag

WidthS.

The

traight

stitch

can

sewn

with

the

needle

the

center

left

needle

position.

The

left

needle

nitiOfl

suitable

when

sewing

narrow

hems

when

sewing

light

fabrics

where

the

fabric

well

supported

the

outer

edge

the

needle

plate

slot.

Choice

stitch

length

There are

figures

under

the

stitch

symbols

which

indicate the

most

suitable

stitch

length when

sewing

normal

fabrics.

Set

the

stitch length

means

the

stitch length

dial to

the

right

above

the symbols.

The symbol

indicates the

stitch

length

which

best

for

sewing

buttonholes.

Always

use

the

recommended

stitch

length

start

with

but

experiment

until

you arrive

the

exact

stitch

length

for

the actual

work

you

will

doing.

The

stitch length

can

varied

between

and

mm,

see

table

below.

‘—

1-3————-’

2-5

05-15

setting

stitches

Recommended

Stitch

Straight

stitch

—

Straight

stitch

Range

use

titcn

length

t-’resser

foot*

Joining

2—2.5

Sewing

zippers

2—2.5

Top

stitching, tacking (basting)

4—5

Gathering

3—3.5

Joining

light

fabrics

2—2.5

Top

stitching

edges

3—5

Zig-zag

Joining

stretch

fabrics

1.5—2

Bound

edging

1.5

Sewing on

lace,

appliqués,

etc.

0.5—1.5

Zig-zag

Gathering

over

elastic

cord

2—2.5

Zig-zag

Satin stitching

0.3—0.5

Free-hand

embroidery

---

—

Three-step

zigzag

Overcasting,

darning

and

mending

Sewing

terry

cloth

5—2

Presser

feet

The

presser

feet

are

marked

with

letters.

The

different

feet

are

used

for

different

purposes.

Presser

foot

fitted

the machine

delivery

and

used

for

straight

stitching,

zig-zag and

three-step

zig-zag.

This

foot

has

notches

which

can

used

guides

when

sewing.

When

straight

stitching

with

the

needle

the

center

position,

you

will

have

(1/4”)

seam

allow

ance

you

guide

the

fabric

even

with

the outer

edge

the

foot;

(/16”)

the

inner

edge

and

(/32”)

the

innermost

notch.

Zipper

foot

can

attached

the

right

the

left

the

needle,

making

easy

sew

both

sides

the

zipper.

General

hints

The

best

way

hold

the

fabric

let

your

left

hand

rest

lightly

the

work

and

guide

forward.

Hold

the

edge

the

fabric

with

your

right

hand

and

guide the

work.

not

pull

the

fabric—just guide

toward

the

presser

foot

and

let

the machine

the

feeding.

When

you

wish

straight

stitch,

place

the

work

that

the

needle

goes

down

the

center

the

marking

for

the

seam.

When sewing

zig-zag,

place

the

marking

for

the

seam

along

the

left

edge

the

needle

plate

slot.

Lower

the

presser

foot,

start

the

machine

gently

and

increase

the

speed

gradually.

When sewing

fine

and

soft

fabrics,

start

the

seam

acouple

(½”) from

the

edge

the

fabric,

prevent

from

being

pulled

down

into

the

needle

plate

slot.

you wish

extend

the

seam

out

the

very

edge

the

fabric,

sew

few

reverse

stitches

and then

hold

the

threads

behind the

presser

foot

when

sewing

forward

again.

Fasten

off

the

seam

depressing

the

reverse

feed

but

ton

and

sew

few

reverse

stitches.

When the

seam

finished,

raise

the

presser

foot,

remove

the

work

from

behind

and

cut

off

the

threads

leaving

least

(6”)

thread

behind

the

needle.

Straight

stitching

Check

that

the

needle

the

highest

position. Turn

the

stitch

selector

the

letter

Set the

stitch

length

dial to

the

recommended

basic

set

ting

2.5

but

experiment

until

you arrive

the

exact

stitch

length

for

the

actual

work

you

will

doing.

Increase

the

stitch

length

when basting

and topstitching.

The

straight

stitch

sewn

with

the

needle

the

left

position

when

you

turn

the

stitch

selector

the

letter

This

very

useful

when

sewing

light

fabrics.

They

will

supported

better

the

presser

foot

and

the

needle

plate

and

will

easier

sew

top

stitching

edge.

also

important

when

turning

corners.

With

the

needle

the

center

position

may

difficult

for

the

feeder

grip

the

material.

2-5 2-5

Zig-zag

Check

that

the

needle

the highest

position.

You

have

the choice

three

zig-zag

widths,

1.5,

and

mm.

Turn

the

stitch

selector

the

letter

indicating

the

required

zig-zag

width.

Recommended

stitch length

1.5—2.5.

Zig-zag

used

for

sewing

lace,

gathering,

bound

edging,

appliqués,

etc.

The

small

zig-zag

can

used

for

joining

stretch

and

knitted

fabrics.

Three-step

zig-zag

recommended

for

overcasting,

binds

better

and

attractive.

Three-step

zig-zag

Check that the

needle

the

highest

position.

Turn

the

stitch

selector

the

letter

Recommended

stitch length

Three-step

zig-zag

suitable

for

overcasting

most

fab

rics,

especially

stretch,

lightweight or

loosely

woven

fab

rics.

has

many

advantages

compared

ordinary

zig

zag.

elastic and

will

not

pucker

the

edge

the

fabric.

ideal

for

sewing

terry

cloth

and

also

used

for

darning

and

mending.

Buttonholes

When

sewing

buttonholes,

change

the

buttonhole

foot

This

foot

has

graduated

markings

help

you

make

the

buttonholes

the

same

length.

Decrease

the

upper

thread

tension

turning

the

thread

tension

dial to

the buttonhole

symbol.

Set

the

stitch

selector

and

stitch length

dial

the

buttonhole

symbol.

The

finer

thread

you

use,

the

attractive

and

even

the

buttonhole

will

be.

Make

mark

the

fabric

where

you

wish

begin

the

buttonhole.

Always

test sew

abuttonhole and

adjust the

stitch

length

setting,

Insert

the

fabric

under

the

presser

foot,

remem

bering

that

the machine

will

begin

sew

reverse.

Set

the

stitch

selector

The machine

sews

the

first

column

reverse.

Stop

when

you

reach

the

cor

rect column

length.

Turn

2—4.

Turn

back

2—4.

The

machine

will

Now

the

machine

will

form

the

bar

tack.

form

the

final

bar

tack.

Sew

three

four

Sew

three

four

stitches. stitches.

Turn

and

lock

the

threads

the

first

column.

Precision

setting

means

screw

top

the

machine, under

the

handle, the

tightness

the

columns

can

adjusted.

the

left

column

tighter

than

the

right

one,

tighten

the

screw

slightly.

the

right

column

tighter

than the

left

one,

loosen

the screw

sliqhtlv.

iE24

—

241

Turn

Sew

the

other

column

the

same

length

the

first

one.

Corded

buttonholes

small

cord

can

used

sew

buttonholes

elastic

material,

order

keep

the

shape

better.

Attach

the

cord

around

the

projection

the

heel

the buttonhole

foot

own

the

illustration

and

sew

the buttonhole

the

normal

way.

heavy

garments

you

can

sew

reinforced

buttonholes

ewing

the columns

twice

and

the bar

tacks

the

second

time.

Cutting

the buttonhole

pierce

the

fabric

right

angle

until

the curved blade

edge

reaches

down

the

buttonhole.

With

the

knife

less

parallel

the

fabric,

push

forward,

taking

care

not

cut

the columns

the

buttonhole.

The

small red

bead

serves

guide.

Cut

the

buttonhole

the

middle

and

then

repeat

the

cut

from

the

other

direction.

sewing

buttons

Lower

the

feed

dog.

Remove

the

presser

foot,

put

the

button

place

and

lower

the

presser

bar.

Set

the

stitch

selector

the

widest

intermediate

zig-zag.

Turn

the

handWheel

toward

you

and

test

carefully

that

the

needle

enters

the

first

hole

and then

the

other

hole.

Sew

five

six

stitches.

Move

the other

holes

and

repeat.

Set

the

needle

straight

stitch

the

left

needle

position

and

fasten

the

threads

with

few

stitches.

When

“shank’

required,

use

the

button

reed

illus

trated.

Changing

the

light

bulb

The

light

located

the

left of

the

needle.

remove,

press

the

light

bulb

upward,

turn

quarter

turn

the

direction

the

arrow.

insert

the new

light

bulb,

push

upward

and

turn

quarter

turn

the

opposite

direction.

The

wattage

the

bulb

indicated

the

rear

the

machine.

Care

the

machine

you

want

clean

the

machine,

remove

the

presser

foot

and

lower

the

feed

dog.

There

recess

the

free

arm

the

right

above

the

hook

cover.

Push

the

stitch

plate

straight

and

backward

the

same

time

until

loosens.

Clean

between

the

teeth

the

feed

dog

with

the

brush.

When

replacing

the

stitch

plate, insert

from

behind

into

the

recess

the

arm.

Ease

the

front

edge

onto

the

small

and

continue

push

forward

until

snaps

into

place.

Belts

3elt

adjustment

not

required.

Why

haven’t

got

the

results

expected?

Always

start

checking the

needle

important part

which

needs

changed

from

time

the

needle.

Always

start

with

new

needle

soon

you

discover that

seam

not

what

you

expected.

Check that

correctly

inserted.

Unattractive

stitches

The

thread tension

not

correct.

See

page

The

machine

may

incorrectly

threaded.

The

correct threading

shown

page

the

machine

skips

stitches,

change

stretch

needle.

Wrong

upper

thread.

should be

the

same

thickness

the

lower

thread.

Bobbin

wrongly

inserted

the

bobbin

case.

See

page

The

needle

breaks

You

may

have

helped the machine

feed

pulling

the

fabric.

The

needle

can

easily

strike

against

the

needle

plate and

break.

The

upper

thread breaks

Check

the

thread

spool

see

that

has

not

caught

any

way.

The

needle eye

may

have

sharp

edges

which

cut

the

thread.

so,

change

the needle,

See

page

Use

stretch

needle

for

stretch

fabrics

and

soft

leather.

The

upper

thread

incorrectly

threaded.

See

page

The upper

thread

may

have

too much

tension.

Refer

thread

tension,

page

The

thread

knotted.

The

hole

the

needle

plate

may

chipped and

have

sharp

edges.

Replace

the

needle

plate.

Lower

thread

breaks

The

bobbin

case

incorrectly

inserted.

See

page

The

lower

thread

may be incorrectly

threaded. See

page

The

bobbin

overwound.

Uneven

thread tension

This

may

due

poor quality

thread.

Irregular

bobbin

winding

The

bobbin

not

placed

correctly.

See

page

The

machine

not

correctly

threaded

for

bobbin

winding.

See

page

The

fabric

puckers

The

upper

thread

tension

too

tight.

See

Page

for

correct

thread

tension.

The

machine

does

not feed

the

fabric

The

stitch

length

too

short.

Turn

the

stitch

length

dial to

higher

number.

The feed

dog

may be

lowered.

Raise

Pressing

the

lower

part

the

feed

dog

button.

See

page

The

presser

foot

pressure

disengaged. See

page

The

feed

dog

full

dust

and

dirt.

Clean

with

the

brush.

See

instructions

above.

Machine

runs

sluggishly

Dirt

lint

has

fastened

under

the

needle

plate.

Loosen

the

needle

plate and brush

clean

between

the

teeth

the feed

dog.

See

instructions

above.

Dirt

lint

has

fastened

the

hook.

Remove

the

bobbin

case

and clean

with

the

brush.

See

instructions

above.

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