FuzzDog Candyman Manuel utilisateur

CANDYMAN

Boutique OD with

a long waiting list

PedalParts.co.uk

Schematic

BOM

1 2M2

2 510K

3 3K3

4 3K3

5 3K3

6 1K5

7 3K3

8 8K2

9 10K

10 2K2 (CL )

C1 47n

C2 100p*

C3 1u

C4 39n

C5 10n

C6 1u

C7 47u elec

C8 47u elec

D16 1N4148

D7 1N4001

IC1 4559**

D IVE 1MA

BASS 50KA

T EBLE 50KA

VOL 10KA

SW1 2WAY DIP

SPST

*Silver Mica in original

- try ceramic if you

don’t have one.

**Other op-amps may

give better results than

the original - down to

personal taste. Try

4558, 072, OPA2134 etc

The board has two pads marked JUMP. This is the

dashed blue connection shown above, between

D5-6 and D3-4. This connection is on the orignal,

but it is optional. The Jan ay doesn’t have this link.

Snap the little metal tag off the pots to mount them flush in the

box.

You should use some kind of heat sink on the legs of the diodes

when soldering. hey aren’t keen on heat.

Any more than 3-4 seconds of iron and they’re toast.

I’ve incorporated the Current Limiting Resistor for the LED into

the board for your pleasure.

SW1 is opional. You can just leave it out to omit D1 and D2 from the clipping section,

or add a jumper across both sets of pads shown above in red to keep them

permanently in the circuit. Connect only one of these links for asymetrical clipping.

the switch is recommended though.

DRIVE and BASS pots can be mounted to the underside of the PCB with header pins

or snipped component legs, or just wired as normal. REBLE and VOL must be wired.

he board was designed this way to allow space for battery use if required, while still

having a convenient way to mount the PCB in the enclosure.

NO E:

he BASS and REBLE are CU controls -

clockwise turn will decrease the amount of each.

Why? Ask the designer. Probably didn’t have access to Reverse Log pots.

1 2 3

Test the board!

Once you’ve finished the circuit it makes sense to test is before starting on

the switch and LED wiring. It’ll cut down troubleshooting time in the long

run. If the circuit works at this stage, but it doesn’t once you wire up the

switch - guess what? You’ve probably made a mistake with the switch.

Solder some nice, long lengths of wire to the board connections

for 9V, GND, IN and OU . Connect IN and OU to the jacks as shown. Connect

all the GNDs together (twist them up and add a small amount of solder to

tack it). Connect the battery + lead to the 9V wire, same method. Plug in. Go!

If it works, crack on and do your switch wiring. If not... aw man.

At least you know the problem is with the circuit. Find out why, get it

working, HEN worry about the switch etc.

YRET

NI UO TU

Wire it up

he Board GND connections don’t all have to directly attach to the

board. You can run a couple of wires from the DC connector, one to the

board, another to the IN jack, then daisy chain that over to the OU jack.

It doesn’t matter how they all connect, as long as they do.

his circuit is standard, Negative GND. Your power supply should be ip

Negative / Sleeve Positive. hat’s the same as your standard pedals

(Boss etc), and you can safely daisy-chain your supply to this pedal.

PedalParts.co.uk

BOARD

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

GND

BOARD

INPUT

BATTERY

OUT

BOARD

GND

BOARD

LED+

Table des matières

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