Duerkopp Adler 743-121 Manuel utilisateur

Contents Page:

Preface and General Safety Notes

Part 1: Operating Instructions for the 743-121

1. Product Description

1.1 Technical Specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.2 Patents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

1.3 Optional Equipment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2. Operating the Sewing Unit

2.1 Needles and Threads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.2 Threading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

2.3 Setting Thread Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2.4 Changing the Configuration Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

2.5 Dart Depth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.6 Dart Length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

2.7 Setting the Insertion Depth of the Folding Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

2.8 Setting the Controls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

2.9 Positioning the Sewing Pieces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

2.10 Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

3. Maintenance

3.1 Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

3.2 Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

1. Product Description

The DÜRKOPP 743-121 is a sewing unit for the automated sewing of

single-point darts with straight or curved seam configurations.

Maximum seam length 150 mm.

•The unit is equipped with a machine head in double chain stitch

execution.

•A configuration set appropriate to the seam configuration holds

and guides the material.

•The seam length control occurs either via light barrier or

programming, as desired.

•Seam securing at the beginning and end of the seam through stitch

condensing in the material and thread chain

•Thread trimming system: Controlled chain trimmer

•Transport carriage drive via step motor.

•The complete control of the sewing unit occurs through a

micro-computer. It assumes the control tasks, monitors the sewing

process and signals operating errors and malfunctions.

•An electronic thread monitor prevents a renewed starting of the

sewing procedure by thread breakage or when the thread is used

up.

1.1 Technical Specification

Machine head: Class 935 - 171 -100

Needle system: 934 SIN

Needle thickness: Nm 90

Threads: As needle and bobbin thread spun

monofilament sewing threads

Stitch type: 401 Double chain stitch

Stitch number: 4.800 / min

Stitch length: 2,2 mm

Stitch condensing: 1,0 mm

Sewing length: 150 mm

Folding table: 0 - 10° adjustable

Operating pressure: 6 bar

Air consumption: approx. 5 NL per work cycle

Nominal voltage: 0743 000524 3 ~ 380 - 400 V + N, 50 Hz

0743 000574 3 ~ 220 - 230 V, 50 Hz

0743 000644 3 ~ 220 - 230 V, 60 Hz

The sewing unit is delivered with one of the listed voltage sets

appropriate to the nominal voltage.

1.2 Patents

Following patents and registered utility models apply:

Status September 1993

42 28 943

1.3 Optional Equipment

0794 013222 Bundle clamp with swing arm and holder pipehr.

0794 000091 Supporting table (small).

(only in conjunction with the bundle clamp)

0794 000332 Remover device for smoothing the blown-out

sewing pieces.

(only in conjunction with the bundle clamp)

0794 013333 Blower pipe from the top or the right.

0794 013444 Supporting table

(when using in-house bundle clamp wagons)

0797 003031 Compressed air connection hose, connector

plug,

connector socket and hose clamp.

2. Operating the Sewing Unit

2.1 Needles and Threads

Needle system: 934 SIN

Needle thickness: Nm 90

Threads: As needle and bobbin thread spun

sewing threads

2.2 Threading

Caution Risk of Injury !

Turn main switch off.

Upper and lower threads may only be threaded with the machine

switched off.

The configuration set must be in the left end position.

Threading lower thread (Bobbin thread)

–Place thread spool 2 on the thread stand.

–Alternatingly feed the thread through all 4 guide eyes of the take

off arm 1.

–Unlock the slider bed and pull to the side.

–Guide the thread through the thread tensioner 4 + 5 and the thread

guide 12.

–Swing up the flap 13 over the thread take up disk. Guide the thread

to the right past the pins.

–Lead the thread through the hook 14 and pull tight.

–Close the flap 13 over the thread take up disk.

The thread must be in the flap slot.

–Return the slider bed to its initial position.

Hereby the leaf spring must lock in place.

Threading the upper thread (Needle thread)

–Place thread spool 3 on the thread stand.

–Alternatingly guide the thread through all 4 guide eyes of the

takeoff arm 1.

–Guide the thread through the thread tensioner 6 + 7, thread guide

9, check spring 10 and thread monitor 11.

–Lead the thread through the needle and the thread clamp.

Cut of the excess at the thread trimmer.

2.3 Setting the Thread Tension

There are 2 tensions to be set for each needle and bobbin thread at

the tensioning units.

The tension normal is always available.

The tension enhanced is only switched on in the area of stitch

condensing. This occurs pneumatically through the machine.

Needle thread tension:

1 normal: 70 g

2 enhanced: 120 g

Bobbin thread tension:

3 normal: 15 g

4 enhanced: 40 g

The value for the thread tension enhanced is the total tension of the

two individual tensions.

2.4 Changing the Configuration Set

A configuration set corresponding to the desired seam configuration

must be inserted.

Configuration set 0793 078001 = straight seam

Configuration set 0793 078002 = curved seam

Configuration set 0793 078xxx = customer version

Caution Risk of Injury !

Turn main switch off.

The configuration set may only be changed with the machine switched

off.

Removing the configuration set

–Turn the handwheel until the needle is in the 2nd position (OT).

–Push the configuration set to the left end position.

–Turn the grip 5 counterclockwise about 90°.

–Lift the configuration set 6 at the left side and carefully detach from

the transport carriage.

–Remove the configuration set.

Inserting the configuration set

–Turn the handwheel until the needle is in the 2nd position (OT).

–Push the transport carriage into the left end position.

–Carefully place the right side of the configuration set on the

transport carriage.

–Turn grip 5 counterclockwise about 90° and lay the configuration

set completely onto the transport carriage.

–Turn grip 5 back.

The configuration set is locked in and seated fast onto the

transport carriage.

–Position the press-on cylinder 7 with the guide roller in the control

curve 8.

–Push the configuration set to the right hand stop.

2.5 Dart Depth

The dart depth is dependent on:

–the configuration set used

–the dart length

–the setting of the folding table

The folding table is continuously adjustable between 0 - 10°.

Example:

With configuration set 0793 078001 the dart depth is:

–maximum 0.4 cm at 0° and 9.5 cm dart length

–maximum 2.1 cm at 10°and 9.5 cm dart depth

THe diagram shows the dart depths for other angles and lengths. The

curve for configuration set 0793 078002 is also shown.

Setting the angle

–Press the handle 2 together and adjust the folding table according

to the scale 1.

–Release the handle.

The angle is set.

2.6 Dart Length

Maximum dart length 150 mm.

The dart length control occurs via programming ( Buttons L1, L2, L3 )

or the light barrier.

A programmed seam length control is recommended for diaphanous

material.

Work range dart

Example with configuration set 0793 078001 and 0793 078002

(1) Dart depth max. 2,1 cm at 10°, Length 9,5 cm

(2) Dart depth max. 0,4 cm at 0°, Length 9,5 cm

(3) Configuration set 0793 078001

(4) Configuration set 0793 078002

Work range waist pleat

Waist pleat length (cm)

Example with configuration set 0793 078034

(1) Waist pleat depth max. 3,2 cm at 5°, Length 5 cm

(2) Waist pleat depth max. 2,5 cm at 0°, Length 6 cm

(3) Configuration set 0793 078034

Angle adjustment range

Range of shapes

Dart length (cm)

Pleat width min.

Parallel adjustment range

Angle adjustment range

Range of shapes

2.7 Setting the Insertion Depth of the Folding Table

The first stitch of the needle into the material should occur as close as

possible to the front edge.

In order to achieve a uniformly slim dart point with differing material

thicknesses, the machine is equipped with a fine adjustment.

7 different insertion depths can be set with the stops 4.

Caution Risk of Injury !

Turn the main switch off.

The insertion depth may only be set or changed with the sewing unit

turned off.

Setting the insertion depth

–Release lever 3.

–Push the folding table a bit forward on the guide.

–Set one adjusting screw 4 ( 7-off ) to the desired insertion depth.

–Turn setting knob 2 to the desired insertion depth ( stop ).

–Push the folding table to the back on the guide again.

The adjusting screw 4 must firmly touch the stop 1.

–Tighten lever 3 again.

Changing the insertion depth

–Release lever 3.

–Push the folding table a bit forward on the guide.

–Turn setting knob 2 to the desired insertion depth ( stop ).

–Push the folding table to the back on the guide again.

The adjusting screw 4 must firmly touch the stop 1.

–Tighten lever 3 again.

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