Chef's Choice Angle Select 1520 Manuel utilisateur

MODEL 1520 INSTRUCTIONS

Angle Select®Knife Sharpener

Read these instructions before use.

It is essential that you follow these

instructions to achieve optimum results.

FIGB

IMPORTANT SAFEGUARDS

When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should always be

followed including the following:

1. Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.

2. To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the AngleSelect®Model 1520 in

water or other liquid.

3. Make sure that only clean knife blades are inserted in Model 1520.

4. Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts and before cleaning.

5. Avoid contacting moving parts.

6. Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or after the appliance

malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in any manner.

U.S. customers: You can return your sharpener to EdgeCraft’s factory for service where

the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. When the

electrical cord on this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by the Chef’sChoice®

distributor or other qualiﬁed service to avoid the danger of electrical shock.

Outside U.S.: Please return your sharpener to your local distributor where the cost

of repair or electrical or mechanical adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord

of this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by a repair facility appointed by

the manufacturer because special tools are required. Please consult your Chef’sChoice®

distributor.

7. CAUTION! This appliance may be ﬁtted with a polarized power plug (one blade is wider

than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug will ﬁt in a polarized outlet

only one way. If the plug does not ﬁt fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not

ﬁt, contact a qualiﬁed electrician. Do not modify the plug in anyway.

8. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by EdgeCraft Corporation may cause

ﬁre, electric shock or injury.

9. The Chef’sChoice®AngleSelect®Model 1520 is designed to sharpen American, Euro-

pean, and Asian style knives. Do not attempt to sharpen scissors, ax blades or any blade

that does not ﬁt freely in the slots.

10.Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch hot surfaces.

11.When in the “ON” position (Red ﬂash on switch is exposed when “ON”), the

Chef’sChoice®sharpener should always be on a stable countertop or table.

12.WARNING: KNIVES PROPERLY SHARPENED ON YOUR AngleSelect®Model 1520 WILL

BE SHARPER THAN YOU EXPECT. TO AVOID INJURY, USE AND HANDLE THEM WITH

EXTREME CARE. DO NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS, HAND OR BODY.

DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE IN A SAFE MANNER.

13.Do not use outdoors.

14.Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used by or near children.

15.Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the AngleSelect®Model 1520.

16.For household use only.

17.SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

YOU MADE

A GOOD

CHOICE

Congratulations! As an owner of the highly versatile Chef’sChoice®

AngleSelect®Sharpener Model 1520 you will appreciate how easy it

is to maintain all of your American, European and Asian style knives

in factory sharp condition. A highly precise guide system is provided

to position each style knife automatically at the optimum sharpen-

ing angle as customized diamond abrasive disks quickly restore and

hone a fresh edge. The edge is then stropped with the Chef’sChoice®

patented stropping disk to astonishingly sharpness.You will appreciate

the joy of effortless cutting and the unmatched presentation of each

ﬂawless slice.

The Model 1520 is designed to sharpen your Asian style knives with

primary edge facets of 15 degrees (30 degrees total) matching the

sharpness and edge shape of the highest quality Asian knives. Your

American or European knives on the other hand will be sharpened with

primary edge facets of 20 degrees (40 degrees total), the conventional

angle of the Western countries.

Because the typical Asian edge is formed with its primary edge facet

at an angle of 15º (30º total) it is inherently a “sharper” edge than

the conventional Western edge formed at the larger 20º (40º total).

Because the Asian edge is thinner it is usually considered to be a

weaker edge because of that lower angle. Uniquely the Model 1520 is

designed to create a precise 15º primary angle on the Asian blade but

you can at your choice create a second small microbevel along that

edge facet that adds signiﬁcant strength and durability to that already

very sharp edge.

Thus you will realize the extra advantages in sharpness and durability

that has made the Chef’sChoice®Trizor®multibevel edge the edge of

choice for the professional chef.

We strongly encourage you to read the following sections that detail

optimum sharpening procedures for each style blade. Enjoy!

GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE MODEL 1520 SHARPENER

The Model 1520 (Figure 1) is a unique three stage sharpener with Stage 1 designed

exclusively to sharpen Asian style (15º faceted) knives. Stage 2 is designed primarily to sharpen

conventional American and European knives. Stage 3 contains the proprietary Chef’sChoice®

ultraﬁne abrasive stropping disks designed for both Asian and Euro/American blades to create a

microscopic bevel along the edge and to polish it to astonishing sharpness.

Asian knives (15 degrees) are sharpened ﬁrst with ﬁne diamond abrasives in Stage 1, and then

stropped and polished in Stage 3. Optionally for a stronger edge on Asian style blades two pair of

pulls can be added in Stage 2 to form a small second bevel, before proceeding to Stage 3 which

creates the third microscopic bevel and polishes the resulting edge with micron size abrasive.

American and European knives (20 degrees) are sharpened ﬁrst with ﬁne diamond abrasives in

Stage 2, followed by stropping and polishing with micro abrasives in Stage 3. Knives of the 20º

design are not sharpened in Stage 1 unless as described later you wish to convert this 20º edge

facet to the smaller Asian angle of 15º.

Special procedures for sharpening serrated blades are included beginning on page 12.

All traditional-single sided Asian knives such as sashimi knives require special care and must be

sharpened primarily on one side of the edge as explained in later sections.

The Model 1520 is equipped with a manually actuated diamond cleaning system that can be

used, when necessary, to clean any accumulated food or sharpening debris from the surface

of the ultraﬁne abrasive Stage 3 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly urge that you always

thoroughly clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you are a heavy user of the sharp-

ener, you will be able to sharpen for months or even a year or more before you need to clean the

stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense a distinct decrease in polishing efﬁciency in Stage 3

is there any need to use this convenient feature described on page 13.

Figure 1. Chef’sChoice®AngleSelect®Sharpener Model 1520 designed to sharpen both Asian and

the Euro-American style knives.

On/Off

Switch

LeftLeft Left

Stage 2 Stage 3Stage 1

Right Right Right

Sharpen

Euro/American Stropping/Polishing

Sharpen

Asian

Because of their thickness and heavy duty blade design we do not recommend the Model 1520

for the much older thick European cleavers. These can be readily sharpened in Models 120,

2000 and 2100. However, the Model 1520 is ideal for sharpening Asian cleavers.

Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure when

sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade edge with the abrasive disks

on each stroke. (See Suggestions, page 14.) Additional pressure is unnecessary and will not

speed the sharpening process. Avoid excessive cutting into the plastic enclosure. Accidental

cutting into the enclosure however will not functionally impact operations of the sharpener or

damage the edge.

Try a practice pull through the sharpener with the power “OFF”. Slip the knife blade smooth-

ly into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 or Stage 2 and the plastic knife

holding spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel it contact

the diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach the tip. This

practice pull will give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and read the following

instructions speciﬁc to the type of knife you will be sharpening.

DESCRIPTION OF EURO/AMERICAN AND ASIAN BLADES

Over the years, the European and American blades have been designed to prepare foods

common to their own culture and heritage – namely for heavier foods including a wide

variety of meats and more ﬁbrous vegetables. As a result these knives are generally heavier,

thicker, and sharpened with sturdy 20 degree facets (40 degree total angle) (See Figure 3b). By

contrast the Asian foods have been lighter, de-

signed primarily for seafood, and less ﬁbrous

vegetables. Consequently many of the Asian

knives are thinner and sharpened with the

more delicate 15 degree facets (See Figure 3a).

Some Asian blades are very specialized, for

example the traditional Japanese blades which

are formed as single sided blades with a single

15 degree facet. Sharpened correctly they are

exceedingly sharp.

Figure 3. Typical

edge, illustrating the

primary facet.

Figure 2. A typical kitchen knife.

Heel

Bolster

Handle

Edge

Tip

Model 15 edge

30°

15°

Primary

Facet

factory edge

40°

20°

Primary

Facet

a. Typical Asian Edge, 15° b. Typical Euro/American Edge, 20°

In recent years, as cultures and foods of the eastern and the western countries have become

more ubiquitous and available on a global scale, the knives commonly associated with those

foods also have become widely available. Many European and American brands are selling

Santoku blades and certain traditional European styles are now sold under Asian brands.

The Model 1520 is designed to sharpen virtually any of this growing variety of blades and to

maintain the angles and edge designs of their tradition.

If one can identify the manufacturer of a knife or establish the country of origin of the

knife’s particular design it is relatively easy to classify the edge as Asian (15 degrees) or as

American/European (20 degrees) and to sharpen

accordingly. For example the Santoku knife is charac-

teristically sharpened as an Asian blade (15 degrees)

regardless of where the knife is manufactured. Other-

wise if you are using a given knife for heavier cutting

or chopping it probably is best sharpened as an Ameri-

can/European blade at 20 degrees. If you use a small

or medium size knife only for light work such as paring,

peeling, or light slicing you may prefer to sharpen it as

an Asian knife at 15 degrees in order to take advantage

of its increased sharpness.

The following descriptions may be helpful in identifying

your knives or in explaining their edge structures.

EUROPEAN/AMERICAN BLADES

(20 DEGREE FACETS)

European/American ﬁne edge blades are universally double

beveled and are sharpened on both sides of the blade. Most of

the Euro/American knives, shown on the right, Figure 4 have

a thick cross-section designed for heavier work. However, the

associated conventional paring, ﬁllet and utility blades, are

smaller and have a relatively thin cross-section well suited to

their intended application.

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES

(15 DEGREE FACETS)

The most popular Asian blades; the thin, light weight

Santoku and Nakiri for example are generally double faceted

(sharpened on both faces of the blade) as shown in Figure 5.

Occasionally Santoku knives are sold with single facets but

these are not readily available in the United States.

There are other but somewhat heavier double-faceted Asian

knives, the Deba and Gyutou, popular in Asia, which are

used for chopping hard vegetables, for tailing and ﬁlleting

ﬁsh and for meats. These are basically Asian chefs knives

designed for heavier duty work. While these heavier knives

are commonly sold with 15 degree facets, you may wish

to sharpen them with 20º angles. The Chinese cleaver is

included in this class.

Figure 4. European/American blades are

generally thicker.

Figure 5. Double faceted contemporary Asian

blades are usually thinner.

Figure 6. Single beveled traditional Asian

blades are thinner and sharpened primarily

on one side.

TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES

(15 DEGREE FACETS)

The traditional Japanese knife is single beveled and has

a large factory bevel A along the lower section of the front

face of the blade. These are sold as either right handed or

left handed versions as shown in Figure 6. The large wide

factory bevel A is ground, commonly at about 10 degrees.

The most popular example of this type blade is the sashimi

knife also known as Yanagi and Takohiki, designed as shown

in Figure 6. This lengthy, thin slicing blade is ideal for prepar-

ing very thin slices of raw tuna or salmon. The back side of

this blade is commonly slightly hollow ground. A small single

cutting edge facet of about 15º is created below the large

factory bevel along the front side of this type blade as shown

in Figures 6 and 7 in order to establish the geometry of the cutting edge. An even smaller cutting micro-

facet (barely visible to the unaided eye) is customarily created at the edge on the back side of the blade

to enhance the sharpness of the ﬁnished edge. Figure 7 shows a greatly enlarged cross-section view of a

typical traditional single-bevel Japanese knife edge as sharpened at the factory. The large factory bevel A

serves to deﬂect the food slice away from the blade as it is cut. When sharpening the traditional Japanese

blades, you should always follow these instructions carefully. Always sharpen this style knife at 15º (Asian

style) unless it is a thicker specialized blade designed for heavy duty work. Always remember these knives

will be extremely sharp.

SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIFE

OR OTHER DOUBLE-FACETED EDGE AT

15 DEGREES (30º TOTAL)

Virtually all Asian blades are factory sharpened at 15 degrees. The popular Santoku blade shown

above is a typical contemporary Asian style, double faceted and each of its facet is sharpened on

each side at 15 degrees to create a total edge angle of 30º.

HONING THE EDGE IN STAGE 1

Turn ON the power and pull the blade thru the

left slot (Figure 8) of Stage 1, then thru the

adjacent right slot. Repeat pairs of pulls in

Stage 1 using the left and right slots on

alternate pulls. Take about 4-5 seconds for

each pull of a 5” long blade. Take longer for

longer blades and slightly less if shorter. The

ﬁrst time you sharpen this type of knife it may

take up to 10 pair of pulls (alternating left and

right slots) to fully re-angle the edge of a thin

Figure 7. Cross-section of a typical factory

traditional Asian knife edge, magniﬁed 50x

(right-handed).

Figure 8. Sharpen contemporary Asian knives ﬁrst in

Stage 1.

blade. Thicker blades will require more pulls. After 3 pairs of pulls check for a burr as described

below and as necessary continue to make more pairs of pulls until you create a small burr along

the entire length of the blade.

If you are sharpening a contemporary Asian blade (which probably has been sharpened previ-

ously at 15 degrees) you will ﬁnd that only a few (2-4) pairs of alternating pulls (alternating left

and right slots) will be needed to develop a burr. Do not over sharpen. When you have developed

a burr along the full blade length proceed to Stage 3.

DETECTING THE BURR

To conﬁrm the presence of a burr (see Figure 9) move your foreﬁnger carefully across the edge

in the direction shown. Do not move your ﬁnger along the edge – to avoid cutting your ﬁnger. If

the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will appear only on the right side of the blade as you

normally hold it and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a rough and bent extension

of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth by comparison. If there is no burr

continue sharpening in Stage 1, alternating left and right slots until a full burr develops. When a

burr is present along the entire blade length proceed as below to Stage 3.

STROPPING/POLISHING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN EDGE IN STAGE 3

Pull the blade through the left slot (see Figure 10) and then through the right slot of Stage 3.

Make 4 pairs of pulls, (each pull 4-5 seconds) alternating each pull in the left and right slots of

Stage 3. You should then make about 4 to 5 pairs of alternating faster pulls in this Stage, about

1-2 seconds per pull for a 5 inch (12 cm) blade to put a ﬁnal polish on the edge.

Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls and

check for sharpness. Repeat this procedure as needed to create an exceedingly sharp edge.

RE-SHARPENING THE CONTEMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

Re-sharpen following the Stropping/Polishing procedure in Stage 3 as described above.

Depending on its use, you should be able to re-sharpen to a razor sharp edge 3 or more times

using only Stage 3 before ﬁnding it necessary to again hone in Stage 1. Hone in Stage 1 only

when you ﬁnd it is taking too long or too many pulls in Stage 3 to bring the edge to razor sharp-

ness. In that event, follow the entire honing and stropping/polishing sequence in Stages 1 and

3 as described above.

Note: To recreate the special stronger Trizor®edge (discussed in the following section) on the

Asian style blades as you re-sharpen make two pair of pulls (3 second pulls) in Stage 2 after the

burr has been developed in Stage 1. Finish re-sharpening in Stage 3 as described in this section.

Figure 9. When you create a distinct burr along the

blade edge, it can be detected by sliding ﬁnger across

and away from the edge. Caution! See text.

Figure 10. Stropping/Polishing a contemporary Asian

knife in Stage 3.

DEVELOPING THE TRIZOR®TRIPLE BEVEL EDGE

FOR CONTEMPORARY ASIAN AND 15 DEGREE KNIVES

The thin 15 degree edge (30 degree total) noted for its sharpness is generally considered slightly

less durable than the 20 degree (40 degree total) faceted edge. The unique Chef’sChoice Model

1520 is designed, at your option to create in Stage 2 a small intermediate bevel along the edge

of the 15 degree facet before the ﬁnal microbevel is created in Stage 3 where the edge is

polished to astonishingly sharpness.

To create the Trizor®edge, sharpen the 15 degree edge ﬁrst in Stage 1 as described above until

a burr is fully developed. Then move to Stage 2: Make two pairs of pulls of about 2 seconds for

a 5” blade. A small burr will exist along the edge. Do not make more pulls in Stage 2. The small

bevel developed by the two pair of pulls will make a micro-arch at the very tip of the primary

edge facet and leave you with a stronger edge without a noticable change in sharpness of

the knife.

Proceed to Stage 3 and follow the instructions in the proceeding section for Stropping/Polishing

in Stage 3.

SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL (SINGLE SIDED)

JAPANESE BLADE

Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown above are single sided and have a

large factory bevel (Bevel A, Figure 6) on the front side of the blade. There are a large number of

manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi. The factory bevel (Bevel A)

is commonly ground at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions as that angle is not standard-

ized at the Asian factories. Designs of the traditional Japanese knives and the detailed structure

of the cutting edges likewise varies widely from one manufacturer to the next, however there

are some similarities. The cutting edge consists of a small primary facet on the front face of the

blade below the large factory bevel and includes a much smaller secondary microfacet along

the back face. Commonly the back side microfacet (Figure 7) can be easily seen only with a

hand magniﬁer.The back face is ground ﬂat at the factory or more commonly it is slightly hollow

ground to ensure that an effective microfacet can be formed there as part of the cutting edge.

Because of the lack of standardization, the manual approach is commonly used to sharpen

these knives in Asia. Consequently sharpening these knives continues to be difﬁcult, laborious

and time consuming.The Chef’sChoice®Model 1520 Sharpener is designed to sharpen virtually

all traditional Asian blades and to create a factory-quality edge.

Before you start to sharpen a traditional Japanese blade, examine it carefully in order to conﬁrm

that you have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a right or

left handed type as described on page 6, Figure 6. It is essential that you follow carefully the

sharpening procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the optimum edge

on your traditional blade.

Conﬁrm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in your hand (as

when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of the blade, the blade

is right handed. For the right handed blades sharpen only in the left slot of Stage 1 so that

only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the honing wheel. Proceed as

described below.

STEP 1

HONING TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN STAGE 1

(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)

In this example which assumes your traditional blade is right handed, you must hone only in the

left slot of Stage 1 (see Figure 11). The number of pulls that you will need to make depends on

the factory angle of Bevel A (Figure 6 and 7) and how dull your blade may be.

Make ﬁve (5) to ten (10) pulls (3-4 seconds) in only the left slot of Stage 1 and then check for a

burr along the entire back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 1 will be small but

can be felt as shown in Figure 9. Make certain the burr is present along the entire length of the

edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make

additional pulls all in the left slot about ﬁve (5) at a time and check for a burr after each group

of ﬁve (5) pulls. In general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise a burr; it is

unlikely to take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is conﬁrmed, proceed

to Step 2.

STEP 2

STROPPING/POLISHING THE FINAL EDGE ON TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE IN STAGE 3

(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)

a. Make ﬁve to eight (5-8) slow pulls, 3-4 seconds each, only in the left slot of Stage 3 (Figure

12) and then proceed to remove the burr in step b below.

b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge. (Pull about

3-4 seconds.)

c. Make 2-3 pair of fast pulls (1-2 seconds each) alternating in left and right slots of Stage 3.

Test blade for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. It should be razor sharp but if not repeat

steps a, b and c above.

Figure 11. Hone traditional Japanese knife only in left

slot of Stage 1 (right handed).

Figure 12. Strop and Polish edge of traditional Japanese

knife in Stage 3. Follow instructions carefully.

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