Chef's Choice 15XV Manuel utilisateur

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USE.

IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU FOLLOW THESE

INSTRUCTIONS TO ACHIEVE OPTIMUM RESULTS.

ELECTRIC KNIFE SHARPENER

15 Electric

IMPORTANT SAFEGUARDS

When using electrical appliances, basic safety precautions should

always be followed including the following:

1. Read all instructions. Every user should read this manual.

2. To protect against electrical hazards, do not immerse the

Chef’sChoice® Model 15 in water or other liquid.

3. Make sure that only clean knife blades are inserted in

Chef’sChoice® Model 15.

4. Unplug from outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking

o parts and before cleaning.

5. Avoid contacting moving parts.

6. Do not operate any appliance with a damaged cord or plug or

after the appliance malfunctions, or is dropped or damaged in

any manner.

U.S. customers: You can return your sharpener to EdgeCraft’s

factory for service where the cost of repair or electrical or

mechanical adjustment can be estimated. When the electrical

cord on this appliance is damaged, it must be replaced by the

Chef’sChoice® distributor or other qualiﬁed service to avoid the

danger of electrical shock.

Outside U.S.: Please return your sharpener to your local

distributor where the cost of repair or electrical or mechanical

adjustment can be estimated. If the supply cord is damaged, it

must be replaced by the manufacturer, its service agent or

similarly qualiﬁed persons in order to avoid a hazard.

7. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by

EdgeCraft Corporation may cause ﬁre, electric shock or injury.

8. The Chef’sChoice® Model 15 is designed to sharpen knives. Do

not attempt to sharpen scissors, ax blades or any blade that

does not ﬁt freely in the slots.

9. Do not let the cord hang over edge of table or counter or touch

hot surfaces.

10.When in the “ON” position (Red ﬂash on switch is exposed when

“ON”), the Chef’sChoice® sharpener should always be on a stable

countertop or table.

English — 2

11. WARNING: KNIVES PROPERLY SHARPENED ON YOUR Trizor

XV® Model 15 WILL BE SHARPER THAN YOU EXPECT. TO

AVOID INJURY, USE AND HANDLE THEM WITH EXTREME

CARE. DO NOT CUT TOWARD ANY PART OF YOUR FINGERS,

HAND OR BODY. DO NOT RUN FINGER ALONG EDGE. STORE

IN A SAFE MANNER.

12.Do not use outdoors.

13.Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used by or

near children. Children should be supervised to ensure that they

do not play with the appliance.

14.Do not use honing oils, water or any other lubricant with the

Chef’sChoice® Model 15.

15.For household use only.

16.This appliance is not intended for use by persons (including

children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities,

or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been

given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance

by a person responsible for their safety.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

English — 3

English — 4

YOU MADE A GOOD CHOICE

The Chef’sChoice® Model 15 from Chef’sChoice® is the world’s ﬁrst sharpener

designed specially to create the exceedingly sharp and eective Trizor® edge on all

household cutlery.

The Trizor® edge gives you the superior edge durability of the Chef’sChoice® triple

bevel edge while forming each of the major edge facets at 14 degrees (28° total) for a

sharpness that artisans devoted lifetimes to develop the skills required to hand sharpen

edges of this quality.

UNDERSTANDING THE TRIZOR EDGE

The Trizor® design uses multiple diamond abrasives of successively ﬁner grits to shape the

facets into a modiﬁed gothic arch to create an edge that has added strength, durability,

and sharpness. The Trizor® edge is made by a three step sharpening, honing and stropping

process but the major edge angle is set at 14° (See Figure 1) for added sharpness and

eortless use.

You will appreciate the reduced eort in cutting and the enhanced sharpness.

Remember the edge will be sharper than you expect.

GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE CHEF’SCHOICE® MODEL 15

The Chef’sChoice® Model 15 (see Figure 1) is a three stage sharpener with 100% diamond

abrasives in the ﬁrst two stages to sharpen and hone the edge, followed in Stage 3

with the Chef’sChoice® proprietary stropping/polishing disks to create an astonishingly

sharp edge.

You will ﬁnd it easy to convert any of your household knives can be restored to

factory-new condition in just minutes.

All traditional-single beveled knives such as sashimi knives require special care and must

be sharpened primarily on one side of the edge. You will ﬁnd you can also sharpen your

serrated blades with the Chef’sChoice® Model 15 by following the special instructions

included on page 10.

The Chef’sChoice® Model 15 retains the popular EdgeSelect® feature, introduced by

Chef’sChoice®, which allows you to sharpen each knife according to your intended use,

such as gourmet food preparation, butchering, dressing of game or of ﬁsh. The three

stages can be used in dierent sequences, for example to give you either an astonishingly

sharp, smooth faceted edge for eortless cutting or one with a selected amount of

residual “bite” – ideal for cutting ﬁbrous food, meats, stalky vegetables or dressing of

game. This feature is described in detail in a following section.

Chef’sChoice® Model 15 is equipped with a manually actuated diamond dressing system

that can be used, when necessary, to clean any accumulated food or sharpening debris

Figure 1. The Model 15 Knife Sharpener. Figure 2. A typical kitchen knife.

Heel

Bolster

Handle

Edge

Tip

English — 5

from the surface of the ultraﬁne abrasive Stage 3 polishing/stropping disks. We strongly

urge that you always thoroughly clean your knives before sharpening them. Unless you

are a heavy user of the sharpener, you will be able to sharpen for months or even a year or

more before you need to dress the stropping/polishing disks. Only if you sense a distinct

decrease in polishing eciency in Stage 3 is there any need to use this convenient feature

described on page 10.

Never operate the sharpener from the back side. Use just enough downward pressure

when sharpening to ensure uniform and consistent contact of the blade edge with the

abrasive disks on each stroke. (See Suggestion 5, page 11). Additional pressure is

unnecessary and will not speed the sharpening process. Avoid excessive cutting into

the plastic enclosure. Accidental cutting into the enclosure however will not functionally

impact operations of the sharpener or damage the edge.

Try a practice pull through the sharpener before you turn on the power. Slip the knife

blade smoothly into the left slot between the left angle guide of Stage 1 and the plastic

knife holding spring. Do not twist the knife. Move the blade down in the slot until you feel

it contact the diamond disk. Pull it towards you lifting the handle slightly as you approach

the tip. This practice pull will give you a feel for the spring tension. Remove the knife and

read the following instructions speciﬁc to the type of knife you will be sharpening.

HOW TO CREATE THE TRIZOR EDGE ON

EURO/AMERICAN AND

CONTEMPORARY ASIAN BLADES

START IN SHARPENING STAGE 1

Turn ON the power and pull the length of blade thru the left slot (Figure 4) and then

thru the right slot of Stage 1, using the left and right slots on alternate pulls. (Take about

3-4 seconds for each pull of a 5” long blade). The ﬁrst time you sharpen an European or

American knife it may take up to 20 pair of pulls to fully re-angle the edge of a thin blade.

Thicker blades will require more pulls. Check for a burr as described below and continue

to make more pulls if necessary to create a small burr along the entire length of the blade.

If you are sharpening a contemporary Asian blade (which probably has been sharpened

previously at 15 degrees) you will ﬁnd that only a few (1-2) pairs of alternating pulls

(alternating left and right slots) will be needed to develop a burr. Do not over sharpen.

When you have developed a burr along the full blade length proceed to Stage 2.

English — 6

DETECTING THE BURR

To conﬁrm the presence of a burr (see Figure 4) move your foreﬁnger carefully across the

edge in the direction shown. Do not move your ﬁnger along the edge – to avoid cutting

your ﬁnger. If the last pull was in the right slot, the burr will appear only on the right side

of the blade as you normally hold it and vice versa. The burr, when present, feels like a

rough and bent extension of the edge; the opposite side of the edge feels very smooth

by comparison. If there is no burr continue sharpening in Stage 1, alternating left and

right slots until a full burr develops. When a burr is present along the entire blade length

proceed as below to Stage 2.

HONING IN STAGE 2

Make about 1 or 2 pairs of pulls through Stage 2 (Figure 5) alternating each pull in the left

and right slots. Take about 3 seconds for each pull on a 5 inch (12 cm) long blade.

Check for a burr before proceeding to Stage 3. If necessary make additional pairs of pulls

to develop a burr along the entire length of blade before proceeding to Stage 3.

STROPPING/POLISHING THE EDGE IN STAGE 3

Pull the blade through the left slot of Stage 3 (see Figure 6) and then through the right

slot of Stage 3. Make 3 pairs of pulls, alternating each pull in the left and right slots. You

should take about 3 to 4 seconds for each pull for a 5 inch (12 cm) long blade.

Then make 2 pairs of alternating faster pulls in this Stage, about 1 second per pull for a

5 inch (12 cm) blade to put a ﬁnal polish on the edge.

Check the blade for sharpness. For a sharper edge make a few more pairs of fast pulls and

check for sharpness.

Figure 3. Sharpen Euro/American and

contemporary Asian knives ﬁrst in Stage 1.

Burr

Figure 4. When you create a distinct burr along

the blade edge, it can be detected by sliding ﬁnger

across and away from the edge. Caution! See text.

Figure 5. Honing in Stage 2 (left slot). Figure 6. Stropping/Polishing in Stage 3.

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SHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL

(SINGLE BEVEL) JAPANESE BLADE

Traditional Japanese knives such as the sashimi blade shown here are single sided and

have a large factory bevel on the front side of the blade. There are a large number of

manufacturers of knives of this type used widely to prepare sashimi. The factory bevel

(Bevel A) is commonly ground at about 10 degrees, but there are exceptions and that

angle is not standardized at the factories. Designs of the traditional Japanese knives and

the detailed structure of the cutting edges likewise vary widely from one manufacturer to

the next, however there are some similarities. The cutting edge consists of a small primary

facet on the front face of the blade below the large bevel and a much smaller secondary

microfacet along the back face. Commonly the back side microfacet can be easily seen

only with a hand magniﬁer. The back face is ground ﬂat at the factory or more commonly

it is slightly hollow ground to ensure that an eective microfacet can be formed there as

part of the cutting edge. Because of the lack of standardization, the manual approach

used to sharpen these knives in Asia has proven dicult, laborious and time consuming.

The Chef’sChoice® Model 15 is designed to sharpen all traditional Asian blades and to

create a factory-quality edge.

Before you start to sharpen a traditional blade, examine it carefully in order to conﬁrm

that you have the traditional single bevel blade and to determine whether you have a

right or left handed type. It is essential that you follow carefully the sharpening

procedure and sequence as described below in order to achieve the optimum edge on

your traditional blade.

Again conﬁrm which side of the blade has the large factory Bevel A. Hold the blade in

your hand (as when you are cutting) and if the large factory bevel is on the right side of

the blade, the blade is right handed. For the right handed blades start sharpening in the

left slot of Stage 2 so that only the beveled side (right side) of the edge will contact the

honing wheel.

STEP 1

START HONING TRADITIONAL JAPANESE KNIVES IN STAGE 2

(RIGHT HANDED BLADES)

In this example which assumes your traditional blade is right handed, you must hone

only in the left slot of Stage 2 (see Figure 7). The number of pulls that you need to make

depends on the factory angle of Bevel A and how dull your blade may be.

Figure 7. Honing a right-handed traditional

Japanese knife in Stage 2.

English — 8

Make ﬁve (5) to ten (10) pulls in only the left slot of Stage 2 and then check for a burr

along the back side of the blade edge. (The burr created in Stage 2 will be small but easily

felt as shown in Figure 4. Make certain the burr is present along the entire length of the

edge. If there is no burr or only a partial burr, continue to make additional pulls all in the

left slot about ﬁve (5) at a time and check for a burr after each group of ﬁve (5) pulls. In

general 20-30 total pulls in the left slot will be adequate to raise a burr; it is unlikely to

take more than 50 left slot pulls to create the burr. When a burr is conﬁrmed, proceed to

Step 2.

STEP 2

STROPPING/POLISHING THE FINAL EDGE

ON TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE IN STAGE 3

(RIGHT HANDED BLADE)

a. Make ﬁve (5) regular pulls 3-4 seconds each only in the left slot of Stage 3 (Figure 8)

and then proceed to remove any burr as follows:

b. Make one (1) regular pull in right slot of Stage 3 along the back side of the edge.

c. Make several fast pulls (one [1] second each) in the left slot of Stage 3.

d. Make one (1) fast pull in the right slot of Stage 3.

Check the blade carefully for sharpness using a thin sheet of paper. The blade should be

razor sharp. If not razor sharp repeat 3c and 3d above and retest the blade for sharpness.

NOTE: If your traditional blade is excessively worn or if the edge is chipped and irregular

you can use the left slot of Stage 1 to recondition the edge. Use the left slot only (for right

handed blades). Make as many pulls as necessary to reestablish a smooth uniform edge

line. Use a black felt pen to mark facet and follow progress of sharpening along the edge

until edge line is restored. Then proceed in Stage 2 and 3 as described on page 8 and this

same page above.

RESHARPENING THE TRADITIONAL JAPANESE BLADE (RIGHT HANDED)

In general you will be able to resharpen quickly by following the sequence a thru d of

Step 2 in the preceding section. Repeat this if necessary to obtain a razor sharp edge.

When resharpening only in Stage 3 fails to develop a sharp edge or if the edge has been

substantially dulled you will need to re-hone the edge in Stage 2. Use only the left slot

of Stage 2. Generally you will ﬁnd that about ﬁve (5) re-honing pulls will be sucient in

Stage 2. In any event develop a burr before moving back to Stage 3. Finish the edge in

Stage 3 following Step 3a, b, c, d.

SHARPENING LEFT HANDED TRADITIONAL BLADES

The procedure you must use with left handed blades is similar to that procedure for right

handed blades as detailed above – Except, in all cases the slots you must use are reversed.

Where the sharpening procedure for right handed blades calls for use of just the left slot,

you must use only the right slot when sharpening a left-handed blade. Likewise use the

left slot where the right handed instructions call for using the right slot.

Figure 8. Stropping/Polishing a traditional

Japanese knife in Stage 3.

English — 9

THE EDGESELECT® FEATURE –

OPTIMIZING THE KNIFE EDGE FOR EACH USE

The gourmet chef will appreciate the unique ability of The Model 15 knife

sharpener to tailor the knife edge to optimize performance for each individual cutting

task. These procedures are not suggested for your traditional Asian knives.

GOURMET FOOD PREPARATION:

(EUROPEAN, AMERICAN, AND CONTEMPORARY ASIAN KNIVES)

Where the ﬁnest and smoothest cuts are preferred in order to prepare smooth unmarked

sections of fruits or vegetables, sharpen in Stages 1 & 2 as described above and make

extra pulls thru Stage 3. Three or more pairs of fast pulls with each pull alternating in the

left and right slots of Stage 3 will reﬁne the third facet and create remarkably smooth and

sharp edges, (Figure 9a) ideal for the gourmet chef.

When resharpening the Gourmet edge use Stage 3 each time (alternating left and right

slots). If after a number of resharpenings, it is taking too long to resharpen, you can speed

the process by resharpening ﬁrst in Stage 2 following the procedures detailed, and then

resharpen in Stage 3. By this method you will retain very smooth edges and prolong the

life of your knives. This procedure unlike conventional sharpeners will give you extra-

ordinary sharp knives every day while removing very little metal.

FOR MEATS, FIELD DRESSING AND HIGHLY FIBROUS MATERIALS

For butchering, ﬁeld dressing or cutting ﬁbrous materials you may ﬁnd it advantageous

to sharpen in Stage 1 – followed directly by Stage 3. This will leave sharpened microﬂutes

along the facets near each side of the edge (Figure 9b) that will assist in the cutting of

such materials.

To prepare this type edge on either your Euro/American knives or contemporary Asian

knives, sharpen in Stage 1 (see page 6) until a burr is developed along the edge. Then

move directly to Stage 3 and make two or three pairs of pulls there.

To preserve this type of edge, when the knife needs resharpening, use Stage 3 for only

one or two resharpenings. Then go back to Stage 1 for one pull in each of the left and

right slots and then return directly to Stage 3. Do not oversharpen in Stage 1.

FOR GAME AND FISH

The optimum edge for cooked poultry generally can be obtained by using Stage 2

followed by Stage 3. (Figure 9c). For raw poultry, Stage 1 followed by Stage 3 as

described above may be preferable.

For ﬁlleting ﬁsh use a thin but sturdy blade sharpened in Stages 2 and 3.

Figure 9a. A larger polished facet

adjacent to edge is ideal for

gourmet preparations.

Figure 9b. Retention of larger

microﬂutes adjacent to edge

helps when cutting ﬁbrous foods.

Figure 9c. For ﬁsh and poultry

retention of ﬁner microﬂutes

adjacent to edge can be helpful.

English — 10

PROCEDURE FOR

SHARPENING SERRATED BLADES

Serrated blades are similar to saw blades with scalloped depressions and a series of

pointed teeth. In normal use the pointed teeth do most of the cutting.

Serrated blades of all types can be sharpened in The Chef’sChoice® Model 15. However,

use only Stage 3 (Figure 10) which will sharpen the teeth of the serrations and develop

microblades along the edge of these teeth. Generally ﬁve (5) to ten (10) pairs of

alternating pulls in Stage 3 will be adequate. If the knife is very dull more pulls will be

needed. If the knife edge has been severely damaged thru use make one fast pull

(2-3 seconds for an 8” blade) in each of the right and left slots of Stage 2, then make a

series of pulls in Stage 3, alternating right and left slots. Excessive use of Stage 2 will

remove more metal along the edge then is necessary in order to sharpen the teeth.

Because serrated blades are saw-like structures, the edges will never appear to be as

“sharp” as the edge on a straight edge knife. However, their tooth-like structure can be

helpful—for example to break the skin on hard crusty foods and penetrate other materials

such as cardboard.

DRESSING OF STROPPING/POLISHING DISKS – STAGE 3

The Chef’sChoice® Model 15 is equipped with a built-in system to manually clean/dress the

stropping/polishing disks in Stage 3. In the event these disks become glazed with grease,

food or sharpening debris, they can be cleaned and reshaped by actuating the manual

lever on the rear of the sharpener. This lever is located within a recess as shown in Figure

11 on the lower left corner as you face the rear of the Sharpener. To actuate the cleaning/

dressing tool, make sure the power is “ON” and simply press the small lever in the recess

to the right, hold about 3-4 seconds and then press to the left and repeat for 3-4 seconds.

When the lever is moved in one direction, the dressing tool cleans and reshapes the active

surface of one stropping/polishing disk. By moving the lever in the opposite direction you

clean the other disk.

Use this clean/dress mechanism only if the Stage 3 white disks are seriously darkened and

when Stage 3 no longer appears to be stropping/polishing well. Using this tool removes

material from the surface of the Stage 3 disks and hence, if used excessively, it will

unnecessarily remove too much of the abrasive surface – wearing the disks out

prematurely. If that should occur, factory replacement of the disks will become necessary.

If you clean your knives regularly before sharpening you may need to clean or dress the

Stage 3 disks less than once a year.

Figure 10. Use only Stage 3 for sharpening

serrated knives.

Figure 11. Use dressing tools sparingly (see

following page for instructions).

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