Bernina Funlock 009DCC Manuel utilisateur

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/04/02 009DCC/1

BERNINA®009DCC

MASTERING

YOUR

BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR

009DCC

BERNINA®

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Cover & Chain Stitch

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MASTERING

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SECTION A

Cover & Chain Stitch

Machine Set-Up

• Identifying the serger parts – Owner’s manual pg__

• Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord – Owner's manual pg.____

• Assembling thread stand – Owner's manual pg.___

• Power Switch – Owner's manual pg.___

• Light Switch – Owner's manual pg.___

• Loopers – what are they? – Owner's manual pg.___

• The Looper Cover – Owner's manual pg.___

• Cover/Chain Stitch Foot

- Wider for better fabric feeding

- Floating toes level the foot for easier fabric feeding

- Closed holes with no thread outlet complete the threading path

Threads

Owner's manual pg.___

• Types to use

• The importance of quality threads

Needles

Owner's manual pg.___

• Always start with a new needle

• Match the needle to the fabric and thread – Owner's manual pg.___

• Change the needle often; using the needle inserter

• Loosening/re-tightening needle screws

Threading

Owner's manual pg.___

• Cone Holders and Spool Caps

- Holders used for large cones of serger thread

- Turn the cone upside down for the larger based cone threads.

- Caps used for “normal” sewing thread and decorative thread spools

• Raise the presser foot when threading

• Turn tension knobs to 1 when threading

• The threading paths – Owner's manual pg.___

• Use the road map inside the looper cover as a quick reference guide.

• Threading the first thread guide on all threads – Owner's manual pg.___. Lock thread into guide.

• Cover Stitch Threading Order –

- First – Cover Stitch Looper (Purple)

- Second – Right Needle (Green)

- Third – Left Needle (Yellow)

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• Chain Stitch Threading Order –

- First – Chain Stitch Looper (Purple)

- Second – Left Needle (Yellow)

Test Sewing

Owner's manual pg.___

• Always start and end stitching on fabric.

• Lift the entire presser foot by the handle at the back.

• Place fabric under presser foot; lower presser foot.

• Turn the handwheel counterclockwise for the first stitch. Continue sewing; stop at the end of the fabric.

• When stitching is completed, turn the handwheel counterclockwise to lower the needles to their lowest

positions.

• Then turn the handwheel clockwise to raise the needles to their highest position; this releases the

needle threads from the looper.

• Raise the presser foot; remove work.

• Use the thread cutter to cut the thread chain.

Cleaning and Oiling

Owner's manual pg.___

• Clip all threads at the thread guide support.

• Raise presser foot.

• Turn all tension knobs to 1.

• Gently pull threads from serger. Always remove threads in the direction of sewing. If you encounter any

resistance, stop and rotate the handwheel slightly to release the threads from the loopers.

• Open the looper cover and side door.

• Using a vacuum cleaner adapter or a 1” cosmetic brush, remove all lint and fluff from the loopers and

feed dog areas of the machine.

• Following the oiling guide inside the looper cover, place a drop of oil on each of the two oiling points.

• Remove old needles and replace them with new.

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COVER STITCH

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for cover stitch using thread

colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger (use blue thread for purple markings).

• Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and place the fabric completely

under the foot.

• Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.

• Serge to the end of the fabric.

• At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the needles are at their lowest

position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise until the needles are at their highest position to release

the threads from the looper.

• Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work.

• Cut the thread using the thread cutter.

• Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic on page__ of the Owner's

manual.

• Read the tension adjustments information on page__ of the Owner's manual for information about

the stitch formation and correcting any stitch irregularities.

• Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.

• Trim and mount the sample.

Fabric: Firm fabric, 3” x 6”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 3 cones of serger thread

(yellow,green,blue)

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

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MOCK FLAT FELLED SEAM

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for cover stitch

using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger (use blue

for purple markings).

• Fold the fabric to form a ½” tuck lengthwise through the center of the fabric.

• Center the fabric under the presser foot. Lift the presser foot and place the fabric completely

under the foot, with the bulk of the fold to the left. Align the folded edge with the inside of the

right floating toe of the presser foot.

• Coverstitch, forming a tuck along the edge of the fabric. Serge to the end of the fabric.

• At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the needles are at their

lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise until the needles are at their highest

position to release the threads from the looper.

• Raise the presser foot and carefully remove the work. Cut the thread using the thread cutter.

• Trim and mount the sample.

Fabric: Medium weight cotton twill, 4” x 6”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 3 cones of serger thread

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

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Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for cover stitch

using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger (use blue

for purple markings).

• Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin in place.

• Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric under the needles

with the fold to the right of the presser foot, with the right side of the fabric up and the

hem/wrong side down.

• Coverstitch the hem in place.

• Trim and mount the sample.

COVER STITCH HEM

Woven Fabric

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 5” x 6”

Needle: 80/12Universal

Thread: 3 cones of serger thread

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

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COVER STITCH HEM

Knit Fabric

Fabric: Cotton jersey, 5” x 6”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 3 cones of serger thread

(yellow, green, blue)

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for cover stitch

using thread colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger (use blue

for purple markings).

• Fold up a 2” hem along the 6” edge of the fabric. Glue stick or pin in place.

• Using the markings on the stitch plate as a guide, place the fabric under the needles

with the fold to the right or the presser foot, with the right side of the fabric up and the

hem/wrong side down.

• Coverstitch the hem in place. There is no need to stretch the fabric while stitching, as the

cover stitch has natural stretch.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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ATTACHING LACE

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 6”

8” of 1” wide lace edging

Needle: 80/12Universal

Thread: 3 cones of serger thread

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Use spray starch or fabric stiffener to stabilize the fabric and lace.

• Position the lace on the right side of the fabric with the scalloped edge of the lace

even with the left side of the fabric.

• Place fabric and lace under the needles with the lace header positioned even with

the inside edge of the right floating toe.

• Coverstitch the lace to the fabric.

• Trim the fabric from beneath the lace.

• Trim and mount sample.

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CHAIN STITCH SEAM

Fabric: 2 pieces of medium weight cotton, 3” x 6”

Needle: 80/12Universal

Thread: 2 cones of serger thread (yellow, blue)

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for chain stitch using thread

colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger (use blue thread for purple markings).

• With right sides together, place the fabric under the needles. Align the the raw edges

with the 5/8” mark on the stitch plate.

• Turn the handwheel clockwise for the first stitch.

• Serge to the end of the fabric.

• At the end of the stitching, turn the handwheel counterclockwise until the needle is at its

lowest position. Then turn the handwheel clockwise until the needle is at its highest

position to release the thread from the looper.

• Following the instructions on page ___ of the Owner’s manual, raise the presser foot and

carefully remove the work.

• Cut the thread using the thread cutter.

• Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the stitch graphic on page__ of the

Owner's manual.

• Read the tension adjustments information on page__ of the Owner's manual for information

about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch irregularities.

• Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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ATTACHING BINDING

Fabric: Pre-quilted fabric, 3” x 6”

20” of wide prefolded bias binding

Needle: 80/12Universal

Thread: 2 or 3 cones of serger thread

Presser Foot: Coverstitch

Cover Stitch Option:

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for cover stitch.

• Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric; secure in place with 505 temporary

spray adhesive.

• Place the fabric under the needles with the unstitched edge of the binding even with the inside of the

left floating toe, with the quilted fabric to the left.

• Coverstitch the binding to the quilted fabric.

Chain Stitch Option:

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Following the instructions in the manual (page ___), thread the serger for cover stitch.

• Wrap the bias binding around one 6” side of the quilted fabric; secure in place with 505 temporary

spray adhesive.

• Place the fabric under the needles with the unstitched edge of the binding even with the inside of the

right floating toe, with the quilted fabric to the right.

• Coverstitch the binding to the quilted fabric.

• Trim and mount the sample.

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