Bernina Serger 700D Manuel utilisateur

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/04/02 700D/800DL/1

BERNINA®700D/800DL

MASTERING

YOUR

BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR

700D/800DL

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/04/02 700D/800DL/2

BERNINA®700D/800DL

MASTERING

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BERNINA®

Table of Contents

SECTION A Pages 3-17

Let’s Start With The Basics

SECTION B Pages 18-37

4-Thread Techniques

SECTION C Pages 38-59

3-Thread Techniques

SECTION D Pages 60-74

Let’s Experiment

MASTERING YOUR BERNINA®1/04/02 700D/800DL/3

BERNINA®700D/800DL

MASTERING

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BERNINA®

MASTERING YOUR

700D/800DL

BERNINA®

OWNER’S WORKBOOK

Section A

Let’s Start With The Basics

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MASTERING

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BERNINA®SECTION A

Let’s Start With The Basics

Machine Set-Up

• Identifying the serger parts – Owner’s manual pg__

• Attaching the Foot Control and Power Cord – Owner's manual pg.____

• Assembling thread stand – Owner's manual pg.___

• Power Switch – Owner's manual pg.___

• Loopers – what are they? – Owner's manual pg.___

• The Looper Cover – Owner's manual pg.___

- Safety feature – machine won’t sew when the cover is open

Threads

Owner's manual pg.___

• Types to use

• The importance of quality threads

Needles

Owner's manual pg.___

• Always start with a new needle

• Match the needle to the fabric and thread – Owner's manual pg.___

• Change the needle often; using the needle inserter

• Loosening/re-tightening needle screws

Threading for Overlock Serging

Owner's manual pg.___

• Cone Holders and Spool Caps

- Holders used for large cones of serger thread

- Turn the cone upside down for the larger based cone threads.

- Caps used for “normal” sewing thread and decorative thread spools

• Raise the presser foot when threading

• The threading path – Owner's manual pg.___

• Use the road map inside the looper cover as a quick reference guide.

• Threading the first thread guide on all threads – Owner's manual pg.___. Lock thread into guide.

• Threading Order

- First – Upper Looper (Blue)

- Second – Lower Looper (Red)

- Third – Right Needle (Green)

- Fourth – Left Needle (Yellow)

• Upper Looper – Owner's manual pg.___

• Lower Looper – Owner's manual pg.___

- 700D Only

Rotate the handwheel to bring the looper to the right before using the wire looper threader

- 800DL Only

Rotate the handwheel to bring the looper to the right before engaging the automatic looper threader

• Right Needle -– Owner's manual pg.___

• Left Needle – Owner's manual pg.___

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Test Sewing

Owner's manual pg.___

• Lift the front of the presser foot to place the fabric under it to begin serging.

• Lift the entire presser foot by the handle at the back when accurate fabric placement is needed.

• Chain off the fabric

Cleaning and Oiling

Owner's manual pg.___

• Clip all threads at the thread guide support.

• Lift the presser foot to release (open) the thread tension disks.

• Gently pull threads from serger. Always remove threads in the direction of sewing. If you encounter any

resistance, stop and rotate the handwheel slightly to release the threads from the loopers.

• Open the looper cover; rotate the upper knife up.

• Using a vacuum cleaner adapter or a 1” cosmetic brush, remove all lint and fluff from the looper, knife

and feed dog areas of the machine.

• Following the oiling guide inside the looper cover, place a drop of oil on each of the two oiling points.

• Remove old needles and replace them with new.

• Rotate upper knife down into cutting position.

Replacing the Knives

Owner's manual pg.___

• Serger knives cut fabric as it is serged; as with scissors, repeated use can dull them. If knives begin to

“chew” instead of cut, consider replacing the lower knife.

• If you serge over pins, replce both knives.

• An authorized BERNINA®technician will need to replace the upper knife.

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TENSION THEORY

Balanced 4-Thread Stitch

Owner’s manual pg.___

• Thread the serger for a 4 thread overlock stitch using thread colors to match the color-coded threading

path on the serger.

• Set all thread tension levers at 3-5 (normal).

• Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

• To begin stitching, lift the front of the presser foot with your right thumb and slide the fabric under the

presser foot. Release the tip of the presser foot and begin serging.

• Serge to the end of the fabric.

• Continue stitching off the fabric until you have a 3”- 4” thread chain.

• Examine the serger stitch formation and compare it to the balanced stitch graphic on page__ of the

Owner's manual.

• Read the information under Adjusting the Thread Tension on page__ of the Owner's manual for

information about the stitch formation and correcting any stitch irregularities.

• Make any necessary tension adjustments and serge another row of stitching.

• Trim and mount the sample.

Fabric: Firm fabric, 6” x 6”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of serger thread

(yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot: Standard

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Lower Looper - Increased Tension

Owner's Manual pg.____

• Thread the serger for a 4-thread overlock stitch using thread

colors to match the color-coded threading path on the serger.

• Fold each piece of the firm fabric to 1½” x 4” and set aside.

• Locate the thread tension levers on the front of the serger. From

left to right, these levers adjust tension for the Left Needle, Right

Needle, Upper Looper, and the Lower Looper.

• Adjust the lower looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the

tension on the looper thread.

• Place the first piece of folded fabric under the presser foot with the

fold to the right and serge to the end of the fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of

the fabric. The upper looper thread is pulled tightly to the back of the

stitch. The left needle thread may be pulled to the back of the stitch.

• Trim, label, and mount the sample.

Lower Looper - Decreased Tension

• Change the lower looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the

tension on the looper thread.

• Serge the second piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of

the fabric. The lower looper thread is visible on the face of the fabric.

The looper threads are very loose.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

ADJUSTING TENSIONS

Fabric: 6 pieces of firm fabric, 6” x 6” each

1 piece of lightweight cotton, 3” x 4”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of serger thread

(yellow, red, green, blue)

Presser Foot: Standard

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Upper Looper - Decreased Tension

• Change the upper looper thread tension lever to 2 to decrease the tension on the looper thread.

• Serge the fourth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The upper looper

thread is visible on the back of the fabric. The looper threads are very loose.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

• Return the thread tension levers to normal.

Upper Looper - Increased Tension

• Adjust the upper looper thread tension lever to 7 to increase the tension on the looper thread.

• Serge the third piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The looper threads do not lock on the edge of the fabric. The lower looper

thread is pulled tightly to the front of the stitch.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

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Right Needle

• Adjust the right needle thread tension lever to decrease

(down) the tension on the needle thread.

• Serge the fifth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large

loops on the back of the fabric.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Left Needle

• Adjust the left needle thread tension lever to 2 to decrease

the tension on the needle thread.

• Serge the sixth piece of folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The needle thread forms large

loops on the back of the fabric.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

Both Needles

• Adjust both the left and right needle thread tension levers to 7

to increase the tension on the needle threads.

• Fold the piece of lightweight woven cotton fabric to 1½” x 4”.

• Serge the folded fabric, cutting off the fold.

• Examine the sample. The stitch is puckering the fabric.

• Label, trim, and mount the sample.

• Return both needle thread tension levers to normal.

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STITCH LENGTH ADJUSTMENT

• Owner’s manual pg.___

• Fold fabric in half to 3” x 6”.

• Using a fabric marker, divide the fabric into four equal sections along the folded edge.

• Thread the serger for a four thread overlock stitch.

• Fine tune the tensions for a balanced overlock stitch (3-5).

• Set the cutting width and the differential as needed.

• Adjust the stitch length to 4mm.

• Serge to the first mark along the folded edge, trimming the fold slightly.

• Adjust the stitch length to 3mm and serge to the second mark.

• Adjust the stitch length to 2mm and serge to the third mark.

• Adjust the stitch length to 1mm and serge to the end.

• Mark the stitch length settings on the fabric sample.

• Trim and mount the sample.

Fabric: Firm fabric, 6” x 6”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of serger thread

Presser Foot: Standard

4mm 3mm 2mm 1mm

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