Audio Control Architect 1160 Instructions de montage

ÒBus Select Switches – The switches below each

zone’s local input jacks select the input source for

that amplier zone. If the switch is in the “Local”

position, the zone receives audio signals from the

local input. If the switch is in “Bus 1” or “Bus 2”,

audio signals come from the appropriate “Bus”

inputs. Whenever a Bus Input is selected, the zone

input can be remotely triggered to the local input

using the 12 volt Local Trigger input (see #6 on

previous page).

Ó Local Inputs - These unbalanced RCA inputs

connect to your preamplier’s outputs. Any stan-

dard line level audio signal can be connected to

these inputs.

AC Power Fuse - The Architect is designed with

several layers of protection circuitry. The main AC

power fuse is here just in case something really

awful goes wrong. There are no internal fuses in

this amp.

Power Cord The Architect™ draws a maximum

of 1600 watts at full power. Make certain that it

is plugged directly into the wall outlet or a power

strip with sufcient power rating. Since the Archi-

tect has remote power switching, you should plug

the unit into an AC outlet that is always active.

Master Power Switch - This switch shuts off the

main AC power. Normally the only time you need

to turn the master power switch off is if the system

is going to be shut down for an extended period of

time.

Remote Power Control - This three pin connector

allows you to remotely turn on the Architect. You

can either use a contact closure between the Trigger

In and the +12V output or an external 12 volt trig-

ger between the Control In and Ground terminals.

The +12 volt output is not designed to power other

pieces of equipment.

Ground Lift Switch – This switch selects the

level of isolation between the audio signal ground

and your AC earth ground. In normal operation

this switch should be in the Ground position, but if

you run into trouble with an AC ground hum, try

the other two settings for the best operation. For

your safety, the chassis is always connected to the

earth ground regardless of the switch setting.

Remote Power control (1/8” jacks) - These mono

1/8” jacks are wired parallel to each other and

work in conjunction with the 3-pin remote power

connector. Either 1/8” input can receive a 12-volt

trigger which will turn-on your Architect amplier.

This will then allow the unused jack to output 12

volts that can be used to turn-on a second ampli-

er. If your using the 3-pin connector to trigger

the Architect, both of the 1/8” jacks can provide

output trigger

A Guided Tour Of

The Architecttm 1160 Series

Ò Ó

1514 13 12

ARCHITECT

Model 1160/1161

Installer’s Guide

™

Hooking Up Your System

What you’ll need:

1. The Architect™ Model 1100 Series Amplier.

2. RCA audio hook-up cables.

3. Small blade screwdriver for terminal blocks

4. (Optional) A balanced line driver (of course we recom-

mend the AudioControl BLD-10 and BLR-10) if you are

going to mount the Architect more than 20 feet from the

preamp.

5. Enough speaker wire to reach all of your speakers.

6. Multi-zone audio controller, receiver, or preamplier.

7. Although you can set the speaker optimization controls

by ear, a real-time audio analyzer such as the

AudioControl Industrial SA-3052 is very helpful.

8. An RJ-45 10BaseT Ethernet connection cable.

(Optional - Architect Model 1161)

Hooking Up Your

System

BLR-10 and BLD-10 Balanced Audio Drivers send audio over CAT-5. Extends

high quality audio up to 1000’.

SA-3052 Real Time Audio Analyzer

Installation:

The Long Version

Installation: The Long Version

What follows is a step-by-step guide to integrating the Ar-

chitect into your multi-zone system. If it seems overly detailed,

please forgive us. We would rather tell you too much than too

little.

First, check your new Architect for any shipping damage. We

pack ‘em pretty securely, but it’s a vicious world out there and

anything can happen between us building them here in Mountlake

Terrace, Washington and your installation.

PAPERWORK

Yes, lling out the warranty registration card is about as excit-

ing as cleaning out your sock drawer, but we’d denitely like the

card back after you’ve hooked up the Architect and played with it

a while. We DO read each and every incoming card and react to

your suggestions. That’s how great products like this are created.

Next, record the serial number on the sales receipt and make

certain the home owner puts it away in a safe place. Stashing the

receipt away is very important in the unlikely event that your

Architect ever needs servicing, or…well things do happen…you

need to prove to an insurance adjuster that something as great as

the Architect was installed in the system.

PLACEMENT

The Architect Model 1100 Series is a very efcient amplier,

but it does need some breathing room to operate properly. Make

certain that the air vents on the rear and sides of the Architect are

not blocked and have at least ½” of air space. Also make certain

that heat sensitive components such as CD or Tape players are

not directly on top of the Architect. Just as a reminder, you should

avoid putting any leaky pipes above the audio equipment stack.

A benet of having remote power control on the Architect is

that you can install it in another area of the house (such as a base-

ment or utility room) away from the main component stack. Make

certain that you use a good quality audio line driver to extend the

RCA cables if you choose this type of installation.

POWER

Under normal operating conditions, the Architect Model

1100 Series ampliers can draw up to 1600 watts of AC power.

Don’t plug it into a switched outlet on your system unless you

are certain that it can handle the power rating. Also, please don’t

cut off the ground pin on the power connector. It is an important

ARCHITECT

Model 1160/1161

Installer’s Guide

™

Installation:

The Long Version

safety feature. If you need to plug it into a two prong outlet, use

a ground adapter (and connect the ground on it). If you have a

ground noise problem, try the ground lift switch on the rear panel.

REMOTE POWER CONTROL

The Architect has several means of power control:

• Main AC Power switch- This is the master control and

must be turned ON for the Architect to function. When the main

power switch is on, the blue Power LED on the front panel lights

up. Normally the only time that you would need to turn the AC

power switch off is when the system is going to be unused for an

extended period.

• Remote 12 volt Power Trigger - This removable 3-pin

remote connector on the rear panel allows simple interfacing with

external control systems. It accepts either a contact closure or ex-

ternal +12 volts DC. (see diagram) The two-color Protection LED

on the front panel illuminates Blue to show that the remote power

control is active.

•Mini Jack - Your Architect is equipped with two mono 1/8”

jacks which are wired parallel to each other and work in conjunc-

tion with the 3-pin remote power connector. Either 1/8” input can

receive a 12-volt trigger which will turn-on your Architect ampli-

er. Additionally the unused mini jack jack can then output 12

volts that can be used to turn-on secondary amplier. If you are

using the 3-pin connector to trigger the Architect, both of the 1/8”

jacks can provide output trigger.

• Ethernet Control - If you have the Architect Model 1161

with the Ethernet control port you have remote control over the

ampliers power from almost anywhere in the world via the Inter-

net. This is also very useful on a more local sense for integrating

the amplier with a home automation system via Ethernet. Do

not use the 12v trigger if you are controlling the Architech via the

ethernet.

• Signal Sensing - Another level of amplier control is the

Signal-Sense circuitry. This provides individual channel muting

control. When active, it senses that an audio signal is present on

the RCA inputs then enables the power and unmutes that zone.

The zone status LEDs on the front panel light up Blue when a

signal is present.

In some installations it may be desirable to defeat the signal-

sense control and leave all zones active regardless of the audio

input. To defeat the signal-sense, press in the Signal-Sense Defeat

button on the rear panel

Installation Hint: If your

installation doesn’t require

this remote power turn-on, you

must put a short piece of wire

between the +12 V

output and the

Trigger In pins.

Warning - Always

connect the safety

earth ground. If

you have an AC

hum problem, use the ground lift

switch

Note: Do not use the 12 volt power

trigger if you have an ethernet

controlled unit. The power turn on

is controlled by the ethernet.

AUDIO HOOK-UP

If you’re an installation veteran, this may seem repetitive, but

some things can never be repeated too many times.

1) Turn off ALL components before making any connections.

2) When making connections, designate RED RCA plugs as

RIGHT and WHITE, BLACK, or GREY plugs as LEFT. In

fact, this is a good idea for ALL signal connections made in

your audio system. The key is consistency. Stick with the same

color-coding and you’ll reduce possible problems.

3) Whenever possible, keep power cords away from signal cables

to prevent induced hum. This is especially important if you

bundle the cables to keep the installation neat looking.

4) Use quality interconnect cables. We’re not going to get

into the debate about whether $100/meter cables improve the

sound, but we know from experience that really, REALLY

cheap cables

can cause a

multitude of

problems.

They tend to

break inside

or corrode,

causing a

loss of sig-

nal or hum. They also have

poor shielding.

5) If you need to run the

RCA audio cables more than

20 feet you should consider

using an active balanced line

driver for the signals. This

will provide better noise

rejection against nasty things

like hum, spikes, local talk

radio, etc. The AudioControl

balanced line driver compo-

nents (BLD-10, BLR-10 and

BLX-10) are an excellent

way to send audio over long

distances with standard Cat-

5 wiring. Check them out at

audiocontrol.com.

Installation:

The Long Version

Using Bus Inputs

to Create Larger Zones

ARCHITECT

Model 1160/1161

Installer’s Guide

™

WHOLE HOUSE SYSTEM WITH

TUNER ONLY BACKGROUND MUSIC

Installation:

The Long Version

Installation:

The Long Version USING THE 12V TRIGGER FOR

LOCAL SOURCE SELECTION

ARCHITECT

Model 1160/1161

Installer’s Guide

™

SPEAKER HOOK-UP

The same rule applies to the speaker wires as the RCA con-

nections. Establish a standard connection color code and stick

with it. One conductor of the speaker wire is normally marked

by a different color (silver versus copper) or there is a ribbing on

one side. Typically this marked conductor is used for the positive

(+) speaker leads. Of course the really good wire has Positive and

Negative printed right onto the wire jacket.

Your choice of speaker wire gauge and the length of the runs

also affects the speaker impedance load presented to the ampli-

ers. As you can see in this table, even fairly short speaker runs

can have signicant resistance if you use a smaller wire gauge.

This can be a benet if you are paralleling lots of speakers. The

wire itself acts as an impedance limiter, since the amplier can-

not see a speaker load lower than the resistance of the wire. The

downside of this resistance in the wire is that you waste some part

of the total power available to the speakers.

See the appendix for information about bridging the Architect

into mono operation. (Page 25)

Congratulations! You’re done with the audio hook up. Now

for the details of operation…

Speaker connection wiring

Installation:

The Long Version

25’ 50’ 100’ 250’ 500’

24 GA 1.3 Ω 2.6 Ω 5.1 Ω 12.8 Ω 25.7 Ω

22 GA 0.8 Ω 1.6 Ω 3.24 Ω 8.1 Ω 16.0 Ω

20 GA 0.5 Ω 1.0 Ω 2.0 Ω 5.0 Ω 10.1 Ω

18 GA 0.3 Ω 0.6 Ω 1.28 Ω 3.2 Ω 6.4 Ω

16 GA 0.2 Ω .4 Ω 0.8 Ω 2.0 Ω 4.0 Ω

14 GA 0.1 Ω .25 Ω 0.5 Ω 1.26 Ω 2.5 Ω

12 GA 0.08 Ω .16 Ω 0.32 Ω 0.8 Ω 1.6 Ω

Speaker Wire Resistance Wire Gauge versus Run Length

Equalizing the System

Before proceeding on to setting up the Speaker Optimization

controls on the Architect, it’s a good idea to make sure that you

have everything connected and working properly.

1. Double-check all connections. Make certain that all of the

audio and speaker connections are rmly seated and tightened

down.

2. Turn on your audio system. The Power LED on the Architect

should be Blue, the Protection LED should be Blue (after a

few seconds of Red on startup) and (unless you have defeated

the Signal-Sense) the Channel Status LEDs should be off.

3. Start one of the audio sources playing and send that signal

to the Architect (how you do this depends on your particular

multi-room system). The zone status LED should illuminate

Blue within one second after the music begins.

4. Check each speaker output zone to ensure that each one plays

properly.

5. With all the speaker loads turned on, turn up the volume and

make certain that the channel status LEDs on the Architect stay

Blue. If they slowly toggle between Blue and Red, then there

is either a short in the speaker wiring, or the combined speaker

load is too low.

Congratulations! You’re ready to go on to setting the Speaker

Optimization controls.

The following are examples of typical settings of the

Architect™ Model 1160/1161 Series Speaker Optimizer

controls. Naturally, the results of adjustments will vary

depending on the individual acoustic environment, the

type of speakers, and the personal preferences of the

listener. These recommendations are not concrete, they

are simply good starting points.

Note: For the absolutely

best results, The speaker

optimizer controls on The

Architecttm Model 1160/1161 should

be adjusted with a real time analyzer

such as the AudioControl Industrial

SA-3052.

Example Settings

SA-3052

Ce manuel convient aux modèles suivants

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