Wooden-Gear-Clocks The Tranquility Clock Manuel utilisateur
The Tranquility Clock
Copryight © 2014
Jeffrey A. Schierenbeck
1
Introduction
For hundreds of years, mechanical clocks have served as functional timekeepers. During
that time, clocks have also been treasured for their artistic and aesthetic value. For most clocks,
the artistry involves the shape and ornamentation of the clock’s exterior case. However, these
cases hide the inner beauty of the clock the clockwork mechanism.
The Tranquility clock is a wooden gear clock that is a functional timekeeper with an open
frame which exposes its mechanical elements. All the moving parts are clearly visible. It is
intriguing to watch as the seconds and minutes tick away. Of particular interest is its
‘grasshopper’ escapement. It is based on the famous escapement which was developed by John
Harrison. In the late 1700's, Harrison devised the grasshopper escapement in his quest to make
an accurate, seaworthy clock and claim the “Longitude Prize”. The goal of his articulated
escapement was to eliminate sliding friction at the pallets, which was a significant source of error
in the days when effective lubrication had not been developed.
It is enjoyable to see and hear this clock running. However, the most enjoyable part of
this clock is the satisfaction gained by assembling the clock yourself, perhaps adding your own
creative touches. And, through the process of building the clock, you will gain an understanding
of the principles that govern how a clock works, including the operation of the unique
grasshopper escapement.
We truly hope you enjoy building your clock. Please contact us if there is any way that
we can help you with your clockmaking project.
Tools and Supplies
The following items will be necessary to build your clock:
• Phillips screwdriver and small slot screwdriver
• knife
• hammer
• clamps (small spring clamps work well)
• 3-4 lbs of metal shot (available from sporting goods or firearms stores)
• wood glue
• sandpaper (100, grit, 150 grit, 220 grit, 400 and 600 grit suggested)
• pencil
• toothpicks
Safety
It is your responsibility to use the proper tools and techniques to accomplish this project,
including consulting all owner manuals and label directions for any tools or products used.
This package contains small parts, and should be kept away from young children.
Tranquility
2
Assembly Tips
1) To remove precut parts from the original board, carefully bend the parts back and forth to break
the small sliver of wood that is holding them in place. If necessary, use a knife to free any pieces
that were not completely scored by the laser.
2) You may stain your clock if desired. If you are working from a kit or material set that does not
have contrasting wood, we recommend one stain for all of the parts that are found on the gear panel,
and a contrasting finish for the rest of the parts.
Although it is possible to do all the staining after the clock is assembled (the clock is easily
disassembled), you may find it easier to stain the gears prior to assembly. Since a finish can hinder
glue bonding, wait to apply finish until the components have been glued together (a suggested
sequence for sanding and finishing is included in the step by step instructions). If you choose to
apply a varnish, avoid getting varnish on the contact faces of the gears.
3) A few components require gluing. Glued parts should be clamped while the glue cures.
4) Follow the instructions in order. Carefully complete one step before moving on to the next.
5) For the laser-cut parts: some of the parts might benefit from some light sanding, especially at the
breakaway points where the pieces were attached to the original board. Do not sand the mating
surfaces of the gear teeth. Note that the backsides of some pieces may show residue from the laser
cutting operation. A light sanding will remove this residue, although for nearly all parts this is not
necessary because the residue will not be visible once the clock is assembled. If desired, the edges
of the non-gear pieces can be sanded to remove the residue left by the laser. The assembly
instructions indicate at what point the various pieces should be sanded.
6) Some of the parts fit together tightly. It may be necessary to gently tap them together with a
hammer. If the fit seems too tight, some light sanding may be necessary to insure a proper fit.
7) Once the clock is assembled and mounted, there likely will be some adjustments required to get
the clock running properly. Follow the suggestions found in the Regulating and Adjusting and the
Troubleshooting sections of the instructions.
8) A duplicate copy of the part list numbering (Part Locator) is included on the last page of this
manual. This is intended to be removed from the manual so that it can be referred to during
assembly without having to flip back and forth in the manual.
9) Take your time and enjoy the process! Please contact us if you have any questions during
assembly.
3
Part List
1. Bob front face
2. Dial
3. Front frame front
4. Pillars
5. Pendulum support plate upper
6. Rear frame
7. Pendulum bracket
8. Pillar anchors
9. Weight shell front cover
10. Pendulum shaft lower
11. Pillar w/ slot
12. Pendulum support plate lower
13. Weight shell back
14. Pendulum shaft upper
15. Winding pull middle
16. Weight pulley sides
17. Front frame rear
18. Bob rear A
19. Pendulum clamp
20. Bob rear B
21. Weight shell hook pieces
22. Weight shell rear cover
23. Weight shell cover plate
4
24. Minute hand
25. Stop extensions
26. Stop bases
27. Escapement frame
28. Entry pallet arm
29. 8-tooth gear
30. Pinion hubs
31. 10-tooth gear
32. 32-tooth gear
33. Exit pallet arm
34. Set washers
35. Escape wheel
36. Rachet
37. Hour pipe sections
38. Great wheel
39. 30-tooth gear
40. Escapement brace
41. 60-tooth gear
42. Dial markers
43. Hour hand
44. Weight shell middle pieces
5
45. Weight spool interior divider
46. Mounting washer
47. Weight spool hub
48. Pulley wheel sides
49. Spacer washers
50. Weight pulley covers
51. Pulley wheel hubs
52. Pawls
53. Winding pull faces
54. Outer spool sides
55. Winding spool hub
56. Arbor sizing jig
Hardware
19' braided cord
20 nylon shoulder washers
2 - #8 x 1 5/8" screws
10 - #4 x ½" screws
Dowels
1/4" diameter
6 - 1"
2 - 1 1/4"
1 - 1 ½"
5 - 3 3/4"
1 - 5 5/8"
1/8" diameter
8 - 1 ½"
8 - 2 ½"
6
Escape Wheel
Weight
Escapement
Winding
Cord
Pendulum
Shaft
How the Tranquility Clock Works
It will be helpful to have an understanding of how the Tranquility clock works.
This knowledge will be beneficial in assembling the clock.
The Tranquility clock is driven by weight. The weight is hung from a cord that is
wound around a spool on the great wheel arbor (shaft). The weight unwinds the cord from
the spool, causing the arbor to rotate. The gears that are attached to this arbor mesh with a
train of other gears, causing them to rotate as well. When the cord has unwound to a point
where the weight has nearly reached the floor, the clock is “wound” by winding the cord
back around the arbor.
The speed at which the weight is allowed to rotate the gear train is regulated by the
pendulum. As the pendulum swings back and forth, it causes the escape lever to rock back
and forth along with the pendulum. The escape lever alternately stops and then releases
one of the gears in the train (called the escape wheel).
The faster the pendulum moves back and forth, the faster the escape wheel (and the
entire gear train) will be allowed to advance. The pendulum swing period is determined
by its length (or, more precisely, the length from its pivot point to its center of gravity).
Increasing the pendulum length increases the time it takes the pendulum to complete its
swing. This makes the clock run slower. Decreasing the pendulum length decreases the
time it takes the pendulum to complete its swing, making the clock run faster. Therefore,
adjusting the position of the pendulum bob along the pendulum shaft controls whether the
clock runs fast or slow and provides a means by which the clock can be made to run “on
time.”
7
48
5151
Pulley Wheel Assembly
Parts (for three identical pulley wheels)
3 - Pulley hubs (#51)
6 - Pulley wheel sides (#48)
6 - Nylon shoulder washers
Assembly Procedure
1) Glue together the three pulley pieces with the smaller diameter pulley hub (#51) sandwiched
between the two larger pulley wheel sides (#48) with all three holes aligned. After the glue has dried,
the pulley edges can be sanded and finish applied. Next, apply a small amount of glue around the rim
of the hole in both pulley faces and insert a nylon shoulder washer. It might be necessary to either
press the washer firmly into place or to tap it into place with a hammer. Be sure the washer seats
completely into the hole. Repeat this process twice to make a total of three identical pulley wheels.
Hour Pipe
Parts
3 - Hour pipe sections (#37)
Assembly Procedure
Glue together the three hour pipe sections (#37). Clear any glue squeeze out from the center.
8
25 26
Stops
Parts
2 - Stop bases (#26)
2 - Stop extensions (#25)
2 - #4 x ½" screw
Assembly Procedure
Glue a stop base (#26) to a stop extension (#25). Drive a #4 x ½" screw through the stop base, entering
from the side with the extension and exiting through the opposite face. (Note: the pilot hole in the stop
base is intentionally off center.)
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reat Wheel Pawls
Parts
1 - Great wheel (#38)
2 - Pawls (#52)
Assembly Procedure
Lay the great wheel on a flat surface with the spokes oriented as shown below. Glue the pawls (#52)
into the slots in the great wheel (#38), applying glue only to the tab that enters the slot in the great
wheel spoke. It might be necessary to tap them with a hammer to fully seat the pawls.
Hour Hand / ear
Parts
1 - Hour pipe (assembled previously)
1 - 32-tooth gear (#32)
1 - Hour hand (#43)
Assembly Procedure
Glue the hour pipe into the 32-tooth gear (#32). Press the hour hand (#43) onto the hour pipe but do
not glue the hand to the pipe. The hand must be friction fit so that it is loose enough to be able to be
repositioned. If the hand fits too tightly, lightly sand the hour pipe.
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