Vintage Model Co OSPREY Manuel utilisateur
OSPREY
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Osprey
OSPREY
– SIMPLE FLYING FUN
The Osprey is a high wing, cabin sports glider
model designed for fun ying. This is not a scale
model based on a real (or what modellers call
‘prototype’) aircraft, but is designed purely as a
ying model. Sports models come in many guises
and are often own in competitions that are purely
about ying duration, with many different sets of
rules and regulations governing their size and
shape. Often these models bear no resemblance
to a real aircraft at all, with thin tubular fuselages,
no undercarriage and very long thin wings.
A cabin sports model means one which has a
‘cockpit’ where a notional pilot could sit, with fewer
compromises to the size and shape for duration.
Therefore it sits between a scale model and a pure
duration model, both in the way it looks and the
way it performs. These types of models are much
easier to build and y than their scale model
counterparts and therefore form an ideal starting
point for a new modeller.
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YOUR KIT
This kit is designed for you to build a traditionally
constructed, free ight cabin sports glider model of
an original design by the Vintage Model Company
(VMC). Construction of the model from this kit
uses the traditional method of ‘stick and tissue’ that
is to say a built up balsa wood skeleton (framework),
covered with a tissue skin. The balsa frameworks
are built over a plan printed at the exact scale of
the model which is in essence a real engineering
drawing. The glider can be launched by hand on at
terrain for short and simple ights or on a slope for
longer ights. It can also be ‘towed’ into the air. Free
ight means just that, once the model is launched it
is on its own. It must follow a predetermined ight
path established when the model is initially adjusted
for ight or ‘trimmed’. This type of traditional
building technique and ying requires a degree
of patience and skill – but is extremely rewarding.
Although not a ‘serious’ sports glider model, if
built correctly and in the right hands, the Osprey is
capable of surprisingly long ights.
The Osprey is just one of a series of kits designed
and manufactured by the Vintage Model Company.
Aeromodelling was very popular from the 1950s
until the 1980s and following a decline and the loss
of UK manufacturers such as FROG, KeilKraft and
Veron, a revival is now underway. The advent of
modern technology such as laser cutting of parts
and the growth of the internet giving access to
information on the skills and techniques required
to successfully build and y these models, means
new enthusiasts are discovering the joys of
aeromodelling every day.
In the spirit of the old kits additional items required
to build the model are things that can be found in
the kitchen drawer or are easily available on the
high street.
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Osprey
KIT CONTENTS
• 3 off balsa sheets with precise laser cut parts
and strip wood.
• PVA glue for building the wooden frames.
• Piano wire for making a tow hook (if desired).
• Dowel for the wing xings and tail plane xings.
• Rubber bands to hold the wings and tail plane
in position.
• Piece of clear acetate for the windows and
‘trim tabs’.
• Tissue to cover the model.
• Parts reference sheet (W) and full size
summary plan sheet (X).
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OTHER THINGS THAT YOU WILL NEED
CONSUMABLES
• Glue. ‘Cyano’ (sometimes called ‘superglue’),
quick setting epoxy and a ‘glue stick’.
• Cling lm or waxed paper to cover your plan or a
wax candle to rub over it.
• One sheet of standard printer paper (80gsm).
• Tissue sealant – if you want to y your model
outdoors (see ‘Covering’ for details).
• Paints (Humbrol-style enamels) if you want to
give your model an authentic scheme.
TOOLS
• A at piece of wood or cork that is large enough for
the largest part of the model and soft enough for
pins to be pushed into.
• Some modelling pins. If these aren’t available,
dress making pins or drawing pins with tall heads
will sufce.
• A sharp craft knife or scalpel.
• Pliers and wire cutters.
• 180 and 600 grit sandpaper and a small sanding
block, or a disposable nail le with rough and
smooth sides.
• A small engineers square or a plastic set square
from a school geometry set.
• 30cm rule (preferably steel).
• ‘Blu-Tack’ or plasticine.
• A ne marker pen.
• Brushes – one thin and ne, one at and soft
10-12mm wide.
• An old perfume bottle or similar that can deliver
a ne mist of tap water.
• Some sprung wooden clothes pegs to use as clamps.
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Osprey
THE PLAN, GENERAL BUILDING TECHNIQUES,
TERMS, HINTS AND TIPS
The plan provides most instructions for the
construction of the major components.
Major components are all built over the outlines
on the plan provided.
Cover your plan with cling lm or waxed paper or
rub it all over with a wax candle to stop the parts
sticking to it.
There are some terms used on the plan that you
may not be familiar with:
• Laminate: This means to make a glued sandwich
of various parts, often with the grain of the parts
crossed to make a single thicker and stronger
part. When laminating, ensure that the parts are
held together or weighted down and are aligned
according to the plan instructions. Make sure that
you remove excess glue that squishes out, as not
doing so can make the parts harder to sand and
in internal corners, may leave an undesirable
glue ‘llet’.
• Cut through section: This is simply a way of
showing parts on the plan in more detail – as if
you had cut through the parts on the line shown.
The parts that are ‘cut’ are shown ‘cross hatched’.
• Bevel: This means to angle the edges of a part,
usually by sanding.
SAFETY
This kit is not a toy and as such is not suitable for
children below the age of 14. Read and follow
any instructions and warnings given on the
various glues, adhesives and paints, etc. When
ying your model, follow the guidelines in the
section ‘Trimming and ying your model’.
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TIPS TO MAKE A GOOD JOB OF YOUR MODEL
Read and follow the instructions and the plan carefully.
• A light model will y much better than a heavy
one, so use glues and adhesives sparingly. Work
neatly and remove excess adhesive that squishes
out from joints – glue weighs far more than the
balsa wood! A piece of stiff 1.6mm square scrap
wood with the end cut at an angle makes an ideal
scraper to remove excess glue from corners or slots.
• To avoid losing the parts, remove them from the
laser cut sheets only when you need them. Use
the parts reference sheet to identify the required
part(s). Keep what remains of the balsa sheets
once the parts have been removed. This ‘ scrap’
can be useful later to replace a broken part, or
make other detailed parts of your choosing.
• Balsa wood is very delicate – a light touch is
required and this is especially true when sanding.
If you have not sanded balsa before, practice on
the scrap edges of the balsa sheets. You will be
surprised by how quickly the material is removed!
• When using glue (especially cyano), don’t use it
from the tube directly. Instead, drop some onto
a non-porous disposable surface such as clean
foil from a yoghurt pot lid. Alternatively, save
pistachio nut shells – one held upright and rm
on a piece of Blu-Tack or plasticine makes an
ideal disposable glue container. You can then
pick up precise amounts of glue on the end of
a pin or piece of wire to apply to the parts. This
saves overuse of the glue and the potential
embarrassment of sticking yourself or other items
to your model!
• All of the contact surfaces of the parts to be
joined should be covered in glue.
• To remove the balsa parts, cut through the tabs
that join them to the sheets with a sharp craft
knife or scalpel – do not try to snap them from the
sheets as they may split. Remove the remains of
the tab with a light sanding.
• Some parts have a laser engraved letter ‘T’
on them – this means that the part should be
orientated with the letter T to the top when it is
correctly assembled.
• If you decide to paint your model, then use paint
sparingly. It is very easy to add weight with paint
and your model will not y well if it is too heavy.
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Osprey
• The balsa sheets are graded. Sheet 1 is hard and
strong but heavy – it is used for parts where strength
is in preference to weight. Sheets 2 and 3 are weaker
and softer but light and are used for parts where
lightness is key, obviously at the expense of strength.
There are long lengths of cut balsa (known as strip)
on both the ‘light’ and ‘heavy’ sheets, so use strip
wisely and as suggested by the instructions to make
things as strong and light as possible.
• Never push pins through the balsa parts or strip –
it will weaken them or cause the wood to split. Use
pins each side of the parts either angling them or
using the head to hold the parts down.
• Never force a part to t – check and adjust it until
it ts snugly but without force.
• Pin parts together tightly but be careful not to crush
or damage the wood – a tight joint is a strong one.
• Trial t the parts before gluing and carefully adjust
them if required. They are cut accurately, but
small errors can occur between the parts and the
printed plan. Wood is a natural material and its
thickness may vary – it will contract and/or expand
after the parts are laser cut.
• You can work on several parts at one time.
For instance, you can make up the wheels and
undercarriage at the same time as something else
is setting. Just make sure you read through the
instructions rst and follow a logical sequence.
• If you have never bent wire parts before, then grab
a few paper clips and practice on those with your
pliers, before committing to bend the (expensive)
piano wire in the kit. Use a ne Sharpie marker to
mark the position of each bend as you go along.
• The internet contains a huge amount of
information to help you build your model.
Searching for terms such as ‘free ight scale’ and
‘stick and tissue’ will yield example builds and a lot
of useful information to help you with your build.
• Above all… take your time!
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MAKING UP THE SANDING BLOCK
A number of steps in these instructions call for
the sanding of parts. Using sand paper on a at
block offers much more control that holding it in
ones ngers, so the kit includes parts to make up
a sanding block that is handy for building this and
other kits in the VMC range. It is sized at exactly
1/21st of a standard sheet of sandpaper and each
piece will last for more than 4 or 5 models, so it
is well worth making as a useful tool which when
supplied with a couple of sheets of sandpaper will
last for quite some time. If you do not intend to
use the sanding block then it is still a useful thing
to make so that the feel for the balsa wood and the
gluing and laminating techniques can be gained.
1) Identify and remove the two sanding block parts
from the balsa sheets. Note how the grain runs
along the length of one piece and across the other.
2) Laminate the two parts together cross grained
pinning them to the board to keep them at and
aligned. Ensure any excess glue is removed, then
leave the glue to set.
3) Cut pieces of 180 and 600 grit sandpaper to the
exact size of the sanding block (do not use a fresh
new blade for this as it will quickly be blunted!
4) Glue the 180 grit sandpaper to one side of the
block and the 600 grit to the other, use a book
or heavy object to hold everything at until the
glue sets.
5) Once the sanding block is dry it is ready for use
in the following steps!
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