Vanguard Sailboats Laser Pro Guide de démarrage rapide
Rigging
Manual
Vanguard Sailboats
300 Highpoint Avenue
Portsmouth, RI 02871
For the dealer
nearest you call
800.966.SAIL
Pro
Getting Started
www.teamvanguard.com
Unpacking and preparation
Unpack the major parts listed below and lay them out on a soft piece of ground, free of sharp objects.
To avoid damaging contents, do not cut into packaging.
1. Hull
2. Mast kit
Top section
Bottom section (larger diameter)
Boom (with blocks attached)
3. Boat kit
Mainsail in bag
Tiller
Tiller extension
Batten set
Centerboard assembly
Rudder assembly
Line bag
Sail numbers
4. Block package
Top vang block, single
Cleat vang block
Floating double block
2 single blocks for outhaul
2 double blocks for cunningham
Shackle
Large traveler block - plastic
Small traveler block - plastic
Mainsheet ratchet block w/ shackle
Mainsheet spring
Cleat and block base
2 Lead blocks for block base
2 Cam cleats for cleat base
To rig your Laser the first
time, you will need the
following:
Knife
White electrical tape
Phillips head screwdriver
To rig the Radial or 4.7, use the
shorter bottom section and small-
er sail provided and follow the
instructions for Laser assembly.
Tools
Knots
1
Hardware installation
There are several blocks and lines you need to install on your new
hull the first time you rig it. All lines have been precut. Vanguard
Sailboats encourages you to customize line lengths for your sailing
style, but be sure to cut and burn all ends to prevent fraying.
Cunningham and Outhaul Hardware
Install the cleat base and block base. Locate the plastic cleat base and
stainless block base. Fasten them to the deck using the fasteners pro-
vided in the predrilled holes behind the mast step. The block base is
installed closest to the mast step.
Traveler
Locate the traveler line and small traveler block. Run the traveler line
through one eye, through the block and through the other eye. Now
bring the end back to itself and tie a bowline. You are tying a bow-
line with the two eyes and block in the loop. Lead the long tail
through the cleat and tie a stopper knot.
Mainsheet blocks
1. Slide the spring over the shackle on the mainsheet ratchet block
and attach it to the eyestrap at the forward end of the hiking strap.
To compress the spring, push it down with the block while lining up
the pin. Once it is installed, secure it with the ring.
2. Lay the boom on the deck so that the block closest to the end of
the boom is even with the traveler eye straps and the other end
points toward the bow. Locate the large traveler block and clip it to
the smaller block (already on the traveler line) by turning one per-
pendicular to the other and sliding the slots together. These fittings
are called brummel hooks. Tape the two traveler blocks together so
they stand up as a unit, to prevent the mainsheet from jamming
around the lower block.
Mainsheet
Thread the mainsheet through the ratchet block AGAINST the ratchet,
through the forward block on the boom leading aft, through the
eyestrap, to the block on the end of the boom, and down to the larg-
er traveler block. Lead it through the traveler block from aft to for-
ward, then tie it off to the becket on the block on the end of the
boom with a stopper knot that doesn’t interfere with the flow of the
sheet.
Daggerboard
Shockcord: Untie the small knot in one end, remove the small metal
hook (called a brummel hook), and pass the end of the shockcord
through the small hole in the top of the board. Rethread the brummel
hook and retie the knot in the shockcord. You can leave the shockcord
and stoppers on the board permanently. Set the board aside till launch.
Traveller
3www.teamvanguard.com
Assembly
2
www.teamvanguard.com
Rudder
Locate the two rudder lines and tie a small stopper knot in the longer
one. Feed its other end through the small hole in the leading edge of
the rudder from aft to forward and pull the knot up tight against the
board, making sure there is no extra line sticking outside the recess.
Thread the shorter line through one of the small holes in the top of
the rudder head and tie a stopper knot on the underside; its pin will
hold the tiller in place. Attach the rudder blade to the rudder head
using the supplied bolt. Make sure one washer is assembled on either
side of the rudder head, and tighten the nut down enough so that
the rudder will remain up or down.
Tiller
Line up the tiller with the slot in the rudder head and insert, making sure
the tiller extension attachment faces up. You may need to use a rubber
mallet to line up the hole in the tiller with the hole in the rudder head.
Install the retaining pin (attached to the short line you tied into the rud-
der head) into the holes to prevent the tiller from pulling out. Because
the tiller is a tight fit, you may wish to store it in the rudder head per-
manently. Tape over the retaining pin, to keep it in place and prevent the
mainsheet from catching on it. Lead the rudder downhaul line up
through the forward and topmost blue spacer and then forward to the
cleat on the tiller. Slide the tab on the tiller extension into the slot on the
tiller. Make sure it clicks into place and the cover snaps over the top.
Tape around the cover plate and tiller to prevent unexpected extension
removal.
Assemble mast and sail
Line up the rivet in the collared end of the top section with the
gooseneck and insert the top section into the bottom section until
the collar is tight against the aluminum. After checking that there are
no sharp objects in the area, slide the sleeve of the sail over the mast,
aligning the cunningham grommet with the gooseneck and remov-
ing any twists in the sleeve. The head of the sail does not rotate eas-
ily on the masthead, so double check the aft edge of the head is lined
up with the gooseneck before stepping. Insert the battens.
Step mast
Make sure the bow of the boat is pointing into the wind and that
there are no overhead electrical wires in the area. Also make sure the
mast step hole and mast butt are perfectly clean; any sand or dirt in
the mast step will grind into the gelcoat and eventually damage the
boat. Place the mast butt against a solid object, lift the top end, and
walk toward the butt, raising it hand over hand until the mast stands
vertically. Rotate the mast until the gooseneck points toward the
stern. Keep your hands a good distance apart while lifting the mast
over the hole. Let the mast slide into the step, but do not drop it as
you may damage the step. Remove any wraps in the sail sleeve.
Assembly
Rudder & Tiller
Assembled and Mounted
Rudder, Tiller and Traveller
Assembled and Mounted
Insert the battens into the batten pockets.
The short one goes in the top pocket; the
other two are the same length and go in the
second and third pockets. To insure batten
tips do not fall off inside the pocket when
battens are removed, it is suggested that you
tape the batten tips.
Mast Assembly
www.teamvanguard.com
4
Sail Controls
Boom
Insert the gooseneck pin into the forward end of the boom and walk
aft, exerting forward pressure to keep it in place. Clew Tiedown:
Wrap the clew tiedown line twice around the boom and the clew
grommet (inside the outhaul), and secure it with a square knot. It
should hold the clew tight against the boom but still allow it to slide
forward and aft with outhaul adjustment.
Rig the Cunningham
Shackle one double block to the boom vang tang replacing the pin
that is currently used for the vang cleat block or vang swivel. This pin
will go through the shackle and the vang.
Tie one end of the Spectra line to the becket of that block.
Feed the other end through the tack cringle and tie it to the bail of
the other double block.
Tie the pre-stretched line to the becket of the upper double block
and lead the rope through the double blocks.
Finally lead the end of the line down through one of the blocks on
the block base and then through the cleat on the same side. Tie a
stopper knot.
Rig the Outhaul
Tie the Spectra line to one single block.
Feed the other end of the Spectra line through the outhaul fairlead,
through the cringle in the clew of the sail and tie it to the outhaul
fairlead using a small bowline to keep the knot as close to the fair-
lead as possible.
Lead one end of the pre-stretched line through the bail of the other
single block. Loop the tail around the mast above the gooseneck and
tie a tight bowline capturing the block.
Lead the tail of this pre-stretched line back through the aft single
block, forward to the block tied to the mast, down through the block
base and through the cleat. Tie a stopper knot.
Mast retaining line
The Laser class rules state “To secure the mast in the event of a cap-
size, a loose retention line (that will allow 1800 of rotation) shall be
tied between the block base and the vang tang or gooseneck.” We
have included a piece of line for this purpose.
Mast tie in
Cunningham on Vang
Outhaul at clew
Outhaul at gooseneck
Sail Controls
Vang
Rigging the Laser 15:1 Boom Vang by Harken
This system consists of six parts: one vang key, three blocks and two
pieces of line. The block with the cleat on it will be referred to as the
‘cleat block,’ the single block with becket will be referred to as the
‘top block’ and the small double block with becket will be referred to
as the ‘floating block.’ The grey piece of Spectron string is called the
primary line, while the red piece of Dyneema line is called the control
line.
For tying all of your lines, it is best to use a knot called an ‘Australian
Bowline.’ This consists of an 8-knot secured with a half hitch
Step 1: Lay everything out and make sure that you have everything.
Do this in an uncluttered area.
Step 2: Connect the vang key to the top block. It doesn’t yet matter
which way the key faces in relation to the block.
Step 3: Lead the primary line. Tie the primary line to the becket of
the top block, then through the aft most sheave (the one just above
the cleat) on the cleat block (leading the line from front to back
through the sheave), back up to the sheave on the top block. The
ends of the curve in the key should be facing forward (like a shallow
‘c’) at this point. Lead the primary line from back to front through
the sheave on the top block. Finally, tie the primary line to the top
of the floating block. At this point, all three blocks are connected
together by means of the primary line.
Step 4: Rig the control line. Lay the floating block out so that its
becket is forward. The sheaves of the floating block should be per-
pendicular to the top block’s sheave and parallel to the cleat block’s
double sheaves. Tie the control line to the floating block’s becket,
then lead it clockwise through the top transverse sheave on the cleat
block, back up to and clockwise through the forward sheave (the one
with the becket attached to it) on the floating block, down to and
clockwise through the bottom transverse sheave on the cleat block,
then up to and clockwise through the lower sheave on the floating
block. Finally, lead the control line down through the center of the
cleat block, under the transverse sheaves and around the bottom
sheave from top to bottom, then out through the fairlead and cleat.
Vang installation
Attach the vang cleat block to the tang on the mast. Hook the top
“key” of the vang into the slot on the underside of the boom and
tighten it. Tie a large bowline in the end of the line, to make it easy
to grab while sailing.
4
www.teamvanguard.com
Vang Assembly
www.teamvanguard.com
5
Launching
Before launching
Check that the two drainplugs (cockpit and transom) are in place and
tight. The automatic bailer should be closed. Move the boat close to
the water’s edge or launch before installing the rudder and dagger-
board.
Install rudder
Pass the tiller under the aft section of the traveler and slide the rud-
der onto the gudgeons. Keep the rudder up until the water is deep
enough to extend it down, and then tighten the downhaul and cleat
it. Make sure the rudder stop prevents it from lifting off the boat; if
necessary, bend the stop out so that it fits as shown below.
Install daggerboard
Slide the daggerboard into the daggerboard trunk. (You will have to
turn the boat sideways to the wind to keep the boom clear.) Drop it
down as much as depth permits. Lead one end of the shockcord for-
ward through the bow strap and hook the brummel hooks together;
this prevents the board from falling out in the event of a capsize.
Properly tensioned, the shockcord will help keep the board at a
desired height.
Unrigging
As you approach shallow water when you come in from sailing, pull
up the daggerboard part way, untie the rudder downhaul, and pop
up the rudder. After you hop out of the boat, remove the dagger-
board and place it in the cockpit. Make sure your mainsheet will run
free, and release the vang. To remove the rudder, depress the stop
and lift it off.
Once the boat is on land, remove the vang from the boom, undo the
outhaul and clew tiedown line, and unstep the mast. You can store
the boom on the boat; just tighten up the mainsheet to keep it with
the hull. If the boat will be traveling, remove the boom.
The following items can remain assembled:
Rudder
Centerboard
Vang (leave on mast)
Cunningham (leave on mast)
Outhaul (leave on boom)
Sail care tips
If sailing in salt water, all gear should be rinsed with fresh water.
The sail should be allowed to dry before it is rolled up. Make sure
the window is not creased if you fold the sail. Rolling the sail from
the head to foot will prolong the life of your sail. Rolling the sail
around the mast is not recommended.
NOW YOU ARE
READY TO SAIL
FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY, MAKE SURE
YOU ARE WEARING APPROPRIATE
CLOTHING FOR THE CONDITIONS,
AND PLEASE OBTAIN PROPER TRAINING
BEFORE SAILING. HAVE FUN AND
DON’T FORGET YOUR LIFE JACKET!
Loosen screws to
adjust rudder lift
stop. Tighten snugly
when correct.
Correct contact
point for rudder
lift stop.
Upper gudgeon
Pintle strap
Lower
gudgeon
7
Sail number application
To participate in Laser regattas, you need numbers on your sail. Your
sail number corresponds to the serial number of the hull, located on
the starboard top corner of the transom. The letter preceding the
four digit section of the serial number indicates the first two digits.
A=10, B=11, C=12, etc., so if your serial number is: OQT G8989 A393,
your sail number is 168989. Use the red sail numbers provided for
the first two digits, to make it easier for race committees to identify
you properly.
Tips
www.teamvanguard.com
Table des matières
Autres manuels Vanguard Sailboats Bateau
Manuels Bateau populaires d'autres marques
Raymarine
Raymarine ST70 Instrument Manuel utilisateur
Pro-Line Boats
Pro-Line Boats Pro Line 19 Sport Manuel utilisateur
Jeanneau
Jeanneau CAP CAMARAT 8.5 CC Manuel utilisateur
Tiara Yachts
Tiara Yachts C49 2024 Manuel utilisateur
Monterey Boats
Monterey Boats Sport Yacht 330 Manuel utilisateur
J
J 105 Manuel utilisateur
PURSUIT
PURSUIT OS 335 Manuel utilisateur
Boston Whaler
Boston Whaler CONQUEST 345 Manuel utilisateur
Jeanneau
Jeanneau SUN ODYSSEY 41 DS Manuel utilisateur
Meridian
Meridian 490 Pilothouse Manuel utilisateur
Advanced Elements
Advanced Elements AdvancedFrame Expedition AE1009 Manuel utilisateur
Robo Marine Indonesia
Robo Marine Indonesia GEOMAR Manuel utilisateur
