TufFlight Big Bouncer Manuel utilisateur
Page 1
The Toughest R/C Planes Ever!
5376 Amalfi Drive, Clay, NY 13041 www.tufflight.com
Items Included in kit:
Foam Parts:
(1) right/left EPP wing cores in shucks
(2) EPP tail feathers sheets in shucks with wings
(1) EPP front fuselage piece
(1) EPP rear fuselage piece
Misc:
(2) 0.038” control horn clear plastic sheet
(1) 0.005” 1” x 8” clear mylar rudder hinge
(1) 0.003” 3” clear mylar hinge material
(1) 1/32” x 1/2” G10 strip
(1) 1/32” x 12” G10 sheet
(1) 1/16” G10 sheet
(1) 3/8” white plastic motor mount sheet
(2) 1/16” x 3/4” fiberglass LG struts
(6) 1/16” x 72” fiberglass rod
(1) 0.188” x 18.5" carbon tube
(2) 1/4” x 3.75” fiberglass rod
(2) 1/8” x 1-3/8” fiberglass rod
Hardware:
(4) Dubro mini EZ connectors
(3) Dubro 2-56 x 12” threaded rod
(3) Dubro 2-56 nylon clevis
(2) main wheels
(1) tailwheel
(8) 4-40 x 5/16” nylon bolts
(2) 6-32 x 3/8” nylon bolts
(2) 6-32 x 1-1/4” steel bolts
(6) 6-32 nuts
(1) 0.039” x 18” wire
(1) 1/16” x 7” wire
(2) zip ties
(8) O-rings #017
(2) Velcro strap
(4) #64 rubber bands
Template / Plans Packet
This Instruction Manual
Rev 1.0
Hello, and thanks for buying the Big Bouncer! Whether you’ve just entered the exciting world of radio control and
3D flying, or you’re a seasoned veteran, the Bouncer is the perfect combination of agility, durability, versatility and value
for the schoolyard, park or front yard 3D flyer.
Caution: The Bouncer can be a very agile performer, and requires care in setup and operation. Please obey
manufacturer’s safety rules for your motor, propeller and battery. Lithium polymer (lipo) batteries are ideal for
this plane. Charge lipo batteries ONLY with a lithium capable charger according to battery instructions.
The CG location is 6-3/4” from the wing leading edge at the root.
While you may be tempted to fly close to yourself, please practice in a safe manner.
Please read and understand the instructions before starting to build. We recommend joining the AMA and
following the AMA safety code. Call 1 (800) I- FLY-AMA for more details.
We assume no responsibility for how you use your plane. That said, let's get started!
Excellent 3D capability -plus- Outstanding Durability
Wingspan: 55"
Length: 58"
Wing Area: 831 sq in
Flying Weight: 4.5 lbs
BIG Bouncer
Motor: ~800 W
Radio: 4 channels
Servos: 4 HS 65 or equivalent aileron
2 HS 85 or equivalent elevator
1 HS 225 or equivalent rudder
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Items needed to complete:
Equipment:
~800 W motor
4 channel radio receiver
80A electronic speed control (ESC)
3300 mAH 4S Lipo battery
7 servos: 4 HS 65 or equivalent aileron
2 HS 85 or equivalent elevator
1 HS 225 or equivalent rudder
Parts:
15 x 6 prop (depending on power setup)
servo wire extensions
connectors for ESC and battery
solder (if needed for connectors)
shrink tube (if needed for solder joints)
Adhesives:
Gorilla Glue (clear, dries white), small bottle
--and/or--
Quick Grip adhesive
(available at Walmart and Michaels crafts)
thin CA(regular, NOT foam safe)
CA accelerator (kicker)
masking tape
3M77 Spray adhesive
Helpful Tools:
40 grit sandpaper on block
(found at auto finishing stores and Sears)
hobby knife / utility knife
new single edge razor blade
scrap of sheet rock as a “cutting board”
soldering iron
Phillips head screwdriver
straight screwdrivers
long nose pliers
wire cutters
Drill with #38, 9/64”, 1/8”, 1/16”,
1/4”, 3/16”, 1/2”, #61 bits
Dremel Tool w/ drum sander and cutoff wheel
razor saw
felt tip pen
ruler/straight edge
metal file
scissors, heavy duty and tin snips
clamps
scrap wood
plastic wrap
flat building table, at least 5 ft long
lightweight decorations: airbrush (recommended)
Flight Trim:
The recommended center of gravity (CG) point is
6-3/4” from the LE at the wing root with the battery in-
stalled. Adjust by positioning the battery by moving the
G10 plate and velcro strap on the fuselage for the new
battery position.
A good test for an aerobatic CG position is to fly the
plane upright and trim the elevator for level flight. Then
fly inverted and see if any down elevator control is needed
to maintain level flight. If the plane also flys level in-
verted with very little down elevator, the CG is good
for 3D. The farther back your CG moves, the more
“twitchy” your elevator will get. For 3D It helps to have
40 to 50 degrees deflection on all surfaces and a rear-
ward CG. 30 to 50% expo may also be helpful on all
surfaces (Especially elevator). Adjust to your taste.
You may wish to check and adjust lateral balance.
It should be very close to neutral if built as shown.
For hints on flying 3D maneuvers, consult our web
site: http://www.tufflight.com/3d_faq.html
Notes on Crashing and Repairs:
You should be able to fix foam damage with Quick
Grip for fast field repairs. Apply Quick Grip to one sur-
face, join parts temporarily, pull apart to let dry for about
30 seconds (you should see “spider webs”) and then put
them back together. In a few minutes the joint will be
flight ready. Large damaged areas will benefit from Go-
rilla glue as it foams to fill voids.
Have Fun!
Remember, weight is the enemy, so keep repairs
light! If there's one thing we've learned, it's amazing how
much cosmetic damage can be "ignored" when a friend
shows up to fly.
We want you to have fun exploring the limits, but
please do so safely.
We welcome any feedback you may have on this or
other TufFlight products.
Please feel free to contact us:
take care and enjoy!
Mark & Joe
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Step 5: Repeat for the other aileron as shown
Step 4: With a new sharp hobby knife, slice
one ailerons free on the line as shown.
Step 3: Sand and peel any “spider webs”
away from the foam.
Step 2: Carefully separate the wing parts from
the shucks as shown.
Step 1: Gather parts and tools. Step 6: Ailerons should be identical
Step 7: Label “best looking surfaces” for
top vs bottom
Step 8: Align aileron to wing as shown
Step 9: TrimAileron to match wing tip angle
with sharp hobby knife as shown
Step 10: Make slicing tool from scrap wood
and razor blade exactly 0.470” thick
Assemble Wings
You’ll need : Foam wing pieces, mylar hinge sheet,
medium and thin CA, kicker,
hobby knife, scissors, razor blade, ruler,
cutting board, scrap wood,
scrap EPP / 40 grit sanding block
A scrap piece of
EPP may also be
used to “sand” off
the spider webs
The beveled
(pointed) edges
face each other
DON”T
DISCARD the
sheets in the
bottom part of
the shucks!
(you need them
for the tail parts)
Page 4
Step 19: Flex the aileron to set the hinge gap
needed to provide adequate clearance.
Step 14: Slide mylar hinge into aileron as
shown
Step 13: Cut two 3/4” strips of mylar for
hinges
Step 12: Slice the aileron LE and wing TE with
tool as shown. Keep all top surfaces down.
Step 11: Glue razor blade to scrap wood as
shown
Step 18: Slide wing onto hinged aileron as
shown.
Work
carefully
and press
all parts to
the bench
when
slicing
Step 17: Trim hinge at angle as shown to aid
insertion during next step
Step 16: Apply kicker to hinge.
Step 15: Apply thin CAto hinge on both sides Step 20: Once hinge gap ready, apply thin
CA and kicker while clamping with ruler
A weight or ruler
helps to keep the
hinge/foam joint
together
The hinge
gap should
be as small
as possible
while still
allowing full
deflection as
shown
After this
step, trim
hinge
material
even
with
root/tip
edges
mylar is
0.003”
thick and
comes
rolled in
“the
baggie”
Tape a
credit card
to the
mylar strip
to help
feed it into
the slit
Page 5
Step 26: Lay fiberglass rod into groove and
press down so it’s flush with surface.
Step 25: Apply white Gorilla Glue or Quick
Grip into slot as shown.
Step 24: (continuation) Slice from front to
rear as shown.
Step 23: Make a slice roughly 1/8” deep with
sharp knife along line marks as shown.
Step 21: Gather parts and tools.
Assemble Fuselage
You’ll need : Foam fuselage pieces, ruler,
white gorilla glue or quick grip glue,
scrap EPP / 40 grit sanding block,
sharp knife, 1/16” fiberglass rods, ruler
dremel tool /cutoff wheel, 2 large blocks
Step 22: Cut the fiberglass rods to produce
four (4) 48” and eight (8) 24” pieces
Work glue into
the entire slot
from nose to tail.
Cut the 48” pieces
first!
You’ll use the 24”
pieces now. Save
the other ones for
the wing later
There are 8 line
marks for you to
slice
Use your finger as
a depth guide
Step 29: Mark fuselage 5-3/4” from edge as
shown (both sides)
Step 27: Work rod into slot. Rod will stay in
place once glue starts to set.
Repeat for
both sides (all
8 lines)
Insure fuselage
is straight
while glue
cures.
Step 28: Gather parts and tools.
Join Wings to Fuselage
You’ll need : Assembled Foam fuselage and wings,
white gorilla glue or quick grip glue,
hobby knife, (2) 1/16” fiberglass rods,
tall blocks/supports, weights, ruler,
plastic wrap, medium CA, kicker
old credit card
Step 30: Mark center of fuselage as shown
across previous mark.
This will be the
wing front LE
location
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Step 39: Thread the 48” x 1/16” fiberglass
rods half way through the slices as shown.
Step 40: Find spanwise index marks on
wings and slice 1/8” deep along these lines
Make 8 spanwise
slices-- two on
each wing surface
Step 35: Slice all the way through fuselage
at the marks as shown.
Step 31: With wing LE in position, transfer
wing spar locations to fuselage as shown
Step 32: Mark the rear of the wing location
on fuselage as shown
Step 33: Measure and mark the center
location for the wing rear position
Step 34: Connect the spar location marks as
shown
Step 36: Poke and slice carefully through to
the other side as shown
Step 37: Mark centerline of fuselage as
shown for front and back pieces
Step 38: Sand the rods even with the
fuselage edge as shown
Do for both top
and bottom wing
surfaces (on both
sides of fuselage
also)
An awl or long
wire will help
determine the
edges where spar
rods will reside
Install
all 4
spars
You’ll use these
guides later for
alignment of wing
and tail parts to
fuselage
Page 7
Step 49: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip into center wing/fuse joint as shown.
Step 48: Lay onto blocks upside down as
shown. Blocks should be taller than canopy.
Step 47: Wipe away any glue which squirts out
with acetone and paper towel.
Step 46: Work Spars into slots being careful
to center them along the span (other half too)
Repeat for
all wing
spars
We use
two
identical
radio
boxes
Step 45: Apply white gorilla glue or quick
grip into wing slots
Work quickly for
this and the
following steps--
one wing at a time
Step 50: Repeat for bottom side joints as
shown.
Step 41: Obtain two identical large blocks
to use as supports during next steps
The styrofoam
packaging from
your radio
transmitter may
work well
(At least 6” tall)
Step 42: Insert wings between spars guiding
them into the slices to locate the wings.
Step 43: When satisfied with wing position,
tack glue wing front to fuselage where shown.
Step 44: Tack glue rear of wing similarly.
This quickly locks
wing into position
for next steps
Use center marks
on fuse for correct
alignment
use medium CA
and kicker
Page 8
Step 53out “H” motor mount from paper
template as shown.
Step 55: Drill 1/8” holes where shown.
Step 54: Apply template to white plastic
sheet.
Step 51: Apply weights while glue cures as
shown.
Take care to
insure fuse is
perpendicular to
wing and things
look square and
symmetrical
Step 52: Gather parts and tools.
Make Motor Mount
You’ll need : scissors, white motor mount plastic
paper templates, 3M77, drill,
motor
Step 58: Saw to remove “H” insides as
shown.
Step 57: Drill 1/4” holes where indicated at
“H” corners
Step 56: Drill central 1/2” hole where
indicated.
Step 59: Saw to remove “H” insides as shown.
A band or scroll saw may also be used.
Step 60: Round edges with knife or disc
sander as shown
A band or scroll
saw may also be
used if available
*Note, cutouts are
NOT identical
Top cutout is
smaller than
bottom -- label Top
/ bottom to avoid
confusion later
Page 9
Step 61: Deburr corners of holes
Step 62: Test fit motor to “H” mount and
adjust holes if needed.
Step 65: Cut tail parts from foam sheets
with sharp knife
Step 64: Remove any spider webs from
foam sheets. Cut out and apply templates
Step 63: Gather parts and tools.
Make and Join Tail Parts
You’ll need : Foam sheets, new sharp hobby knife,
paper templates, 3M77, carbon strip,
white gorilla glue or quick grip, ruler,
cutting board, mylar hinge material,
clamps, rear fuselage,
strong scissors/tin snips
Note wires route
on left side of
fuselage
Step 70: Make slices for mylar hinges as
indicated.
Step 67:Glue the horizontal stab halves to-
gether as shown.
Step 66: Cut two elevators using the same
template.
You can re-use the
aileron hinge
slicer if you sand it
thinner to center it
to the tail parts
Step 68: Modify your hinge slot slicer for
slicing the tail feathers
Step 69: Practice on some scrap foam and
verify the slice is in the center
a pencil helps you
see where the line
(adjust your slicng
jig as needed)
Page 10
Step 71: Slice the rear fuselage for the
hinge also
Step 72: Bevel the rudder, stab and elevator
to allow desired deflection
Step 73: Mark a line 3/4” from stab rear
centered 18” long as shown
Step 74: Slice on the line as shown.
Step 75: Cut and taper 1/32” x 1/2” G10
spar to fit in the slot as shown.
taper
each end
to a
point as
shown
(not
critical)
Step 76: Glue the spar into the horizontal
stab as shown
Step 77: Tape the joint to clamp it while the
glue dries.
Step 78: Carefully remove the tape when
glue is dry.
Step 79: Hinge elevators onto stab glue with
mylar and CA / kicker like the ailerons
Step 80: Locate and remove plastic from
the control horn clear plastic
a covering iron
helps to loosen
tape if it tends to
pull foam chunks
from the corners
Be sure to flex the
hinge for your
desired travel
(50 degrees each
way is good for
3D)
Table des matières
Autres manuels TufFlight Jouet
