Top Flite Models RC-33 Elder 40 Manuel utilisateur

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INTRODUCTION

TOP FLITEMODELS, INC.is

proud tointroducethe new Elder

40.This design isa directresult

of popular demand afterthe

great littleElder20 was introduc-

ed. Modelers loved the design,

stilldo, but wanted something

"larger" and "whileyou'reat it,

give itailerons." So,here itisand

does itever flynice'.

The Elder40 was designed and

sized expresslyfor.40engines

and thisincludes the popular.40-

.45and .49engines. The design

turnsingreat performancewith

the four-strokepower plants and

there is plenty of power margin

leftover forthe aerobatic-

minded pilot.However, the real

"kick" of this design, like its smaller brother, isthe

realistic,slow-speed flightsthat allow you to actually

see the airplane instead of justa blur.

The design lends itselfto all kinds of detailing, if you're

so inclined. Forthe beginner, nothing fancyisneeded;

go out and flyit. The Elder

makes a remarkably good

trainingaircraftwithgentleand totallyhonest flying

characteristics.A big bonus here is that your trainer is

justnot going to look like everyone else'shigh-wing,

trike-gear,slab-sided beginner's airplane. Intermsof

strength, theEIder40 is a lightly-loaded design that does

nottendto build-up inertiawithexcessflightspeed. This

means that fairlyrough handling does not necessarily

mean destruction.Whilenothing is "crash-proof",the

Elder

is a rugged aircraftthat willkeep coming back

formore.

While we touched on power earlier, a littlemore should

besaid.Thisdesignsimplydoesnotneedalotofexcess

power to flythe way itwas intended to. Our experience

has shown usthat normal 2-cycle.40's work great as

wellas the 4-cycleengine sizes mentioned earlier. With

awingarea ofjustunder800sq. in.,the Elder40 gets its

tail upquicklyand isairborne injusta fewfeet.Flying

thedesign with4-cycle engines is

anabsolute delight.

Give ita tryinyourElder

40.

Note that the motor mount

wehave provided in thekit may not fitsome 4-cycle

engines and itmay benecessaryto visityour local retail

hobby shop to get the rightone foryour engine.

IMPORTANTNOTE:

TOP FLITE MODELS, INC. would certainlyrecommend

the Elder

as a firstR/C powered aircraft.However, if

you are a beginner to the sport of R/C flying,we would

urgeyoutoseekanduseexperiencedassistanceincon-

structingand flyingthisairplane. Again, if you are new

to thishobby, consider this:

Flyingthisoranyother radio-controlled model aircraftis

aPRIVILEGEand not a RIGHTand thisprivilegebegins

withthe utmost safetyconsiderationsto others and

yourselfaswell.AnR/Cmodel airplane ininexperienced

hands hasthe potential ofdoing serious personal orpro-

perty damage. These safetyconsiderationsstartat the

building board by followinginstructions,seeking com-

petent help when you are confusedand avoiding short-

cuts.These considerations haveto becarried overtothe

flyingfieldwheresafetymust come firstand limitations

TOPFLITEMODELS INC.

1901NORTH NARRAGANSETT AVENUE • CHICAGO,ILLINOIS60639

cannot beexceeded. We urge you to:

1.Send forand obtain your AMA(Academy of Model

Aeronautics)membership whichwillprovide in-

surance foryour R/C activities— DONOT RELYON

HOMEOWNERSINSURANCE.

2.Join an AMAsanctionedR/C flyingclub inyourarea

where youcan obtain competent, professionalin-

structionintrimmingand learning how to flythis

model.

Check withyour favorite local hobbyshop for the re-

quired AMAformsor theaddress wheretheycan beob-

tained.

WARNING!!!

Aradio controlledmodel isnot a "toy." Care and

cautionmust be takeninproperlybuildingthe

model, as wellas in theinstallationand use of the

radio controldevice.Itis importantto followall

directionsas tothe constructionof thiskit as well

as installationand use of theengine and radio

gear.The adviceand assistanceof a wellex-

perienced builder and pilot is highlyrecommend-

ed. Don't takechances!Improper building, opera-

tion,or flyingof thismodel could resultin serious

bodily injuryto others, yourself, orproperty

damage.

PRE-CONSTRUCTION NOTES

The Elder40, like otherTop Flite kitsemploys the useof

die-cut wood toease the task ofconstruction,partsfit

and identification.The diesused forthiskithave been

rigorouslycheckedforabsoluteaccuracyand should

provideyou withexcellentfit.Die-cut partsshould be

carefullyremoved fromtheirsheetsby firstlightlysan-

ding the back of each sheet of parts and then carefully

removing each part. Use a lightgarnet paperforthesan-

ding and keep a sharp hobby knifewithan X-acto#11

blade, or equivalent,handy forassistancein removing

any partsthat might not havecompletelycut-throughby

the dies. Parts whichoppose one another and must be

preciselyuniform—suchas fuselagesides, ribs,etc.—

should becarefully"matched"aftertheirremoval from

thepart sheets. Matchingis theprocessofholding the

opposing pieces togetherwitheitherpins, tape or spot

gluing and lightlysanding the edges oftheparts until

they are identical.A sanding block withlight garnet

paper is most useful forthisand otherphases of con-

struction.

Your building surfaceshould beat least large enough to

accommodate thewingpanels. Thissurfaceshould be

as absolutelyflatas possible and yet beable toaccept

pins easily.We have foundthata productsuch as

Celotexfiberboard worksquitewellforthispurpose.

Anothergoodsurfacecanbefoundinmostwell-stocked

hardwarestores—a2'x4'fiberboard ceilingtile.These

are quiteinexpensiveand can be used forseveral

airplanesbeforeneeding replacement.

Aswithmost R/C kitsthatare constructedfrom wood, a

selectionof tools—mostof whichcan befound in the

average workshop—area must to do thejobcorrectly:

Hobby knifeand sharp #11 blades

Single-edge razor blades

T-pins

Sanding blocks in assorted sizes

Sandpaper in various grits

Hand-held hobby saw, such as an X-acto

Dremel tool or power drilland assorteddrill bits

Straight-edge,preferably metal, at least 36" long

90" triangle

Soldering iron, flux(silver)and solder

Carbide cut-offwheelforwirecutting

Small powerjig-saw,such as a Moto-Saw

Razorplane

Tapes, such as masking and cellophane

Our Elderswere constructedusing a varietyof common

hobby adhesives including5-minute epoxy,Cyano-

acrylates,aliphaticresin (such as Titebond) and 1-hour

epoxy.Sinceallof us haveourown constructiontechni-

quesand favoriteadhesives,stickwiththeonesthatyou

are familiarwithand prefer.However, incertainareas

therewillbecalloutsforcertaintypesofadhesives,and

we urge you to trynot to substitutesincedoing so could

possibly cause problems structurally.

The last thingwe should touchon beforewe begin ac-

tualconstructionis thesequence in whichthe Elderis

assembled. The sequence given to you in thisbooklet

hasbeenproventobethemoststraight-forwardandpro-

videsthe finishedcomponents intheorder thatyou will

need them to progress to thenext assembly phase. Try

to stickwiththebuilding order presented here to avoid

mistakes.

Spread theplans out on your work surface,cover them

witha clear plasticmaterial,such as the backing froma

roll of Monokote or plasticwrap and commence con-

struction.

WING ASSEMBLY

Wing constructionforthe Elderconsistsof building

threeseparate pieces; thetwowingpanels and the

centersection.These willbejoinedin the Final

Assemblysectionof thismanual. You willneed the

centersection,withitstopunsheeted, duringthe

Fuselage Assemblysection.Inthissequence, becer-

tainthatyou areworkingon a flatworksurface.Careful-

ly jointhetwowingplan sheets, 3 of 4 and 4 of4, at the

centersectionand securewithtape.Thisprovidesthe

fullwingplanon whichtowork.Thewingisbuiltdirectly

overtheplans, so cover them withMonokote backing or

clearfoodwrap.

1.Startwiththecentersectionfirst.Locatethe die-cut

sheets containingpartsW-11 (2, ply), W-12 (2,ply),

W-13,twooftheW-1A'sandW-1B(4,balsa).Remove

thesepartsfromtheirsheetsand cleanupanyrough

edges beforeassembly.

2.Using theplans as a guide; measure, cut and butt-

glue the

1/4"

1-1/2"

lowerleading edge,

3/32"

balsa

sheet and the3/32" x 1" trailingedge thatmakes up

the bottom centersection.Note desired graindirec-

tionof thesepieces. Measure, cutand gluein place

the 3/8"x 1/2" upper leading edge. Glue one of the

W-11 ply dihedral braces in place against theinside

surfaceof theleading edge—besure that it's

centered.Gluetheouter W-1A half-ribsin place

against therear faceofthe dihedral brace, lined-up

withtheedges ofthebottom sheetingat rightangles

toyourworksurface.Now gluein place twomore

W-1A's,1" inboard of the twoouter ones.

3Asshown on theplans,thecenterdihedral brace is a

compositemade by laminatingthetwoW-12's (ply)

to each sideof W-13, whichresults in a 1/4"thickpart

—dothisnow. Glue thecompleted composite

dihedralbrace in place to thebottom sheetingand

up againsttherear edges of thefourW-1A's.Besure

thispart is centered.

4Locate twoof your 1/4" x 1/2" pieces of spar stock.

From each, cut one 5"length. Glue one of these

pieces inthe top rear slotsintheW-1A'sand against

thetopforwardfaceofthecenterdihedral brace.

Glue the otheron bottom sheetingagainstthebot-

tom rear faceof the center dihedral brace.

5Now gluethe fourW-1 B rear half-ribsinplace behind

themain dihedralbrace. GluetheremainingW-11

(ply) dihedral brace in place on thebottomsheeting

againstthe rear edges of thefourW-1B's.Locatethe

1/4" x3/8" trailingedge materialand cut a 5"length.

Thisis now glued in place againstthe rearfaceofthe

rear W-11 brace andto the bottom sheeting.

NOTE: Fornow thiscompletes the centersectioncon-

struction.You willfinishit afterit has been used in the

constructionof thefuselage.Set it aside fornow and

build thetwowingpanels. Both panels are built directly

over the plans at thesame time.

6.Inthisstepwe wantto prepare each of the required

components—thetopand bottom spars, the3/8"x

1/2" frontLE.and the rear

1/4" x 3/8"T.E.

—withthe

proper dihedral angle at theirinboard ends. The

cross-sectionof thewingthat is shown on theplans

isideal forthispurpose. Simply lay, forinstance, the

bottom 1/4"x 1/2" balsa spar inplace overthisdraw-

ing. Note thatthe outboard end is cutat90degs.; but

that theinboard end must becut at an angle

achievetherequired 3/4"per panel dihedral angle.

Make twoof thesebottom spars. Now repeat this

processwiththe topspars, theleading edges and

the trailingedges (note thatthe length oftheleading

edges is developedfromthetop viewof the wing

plan). The inboard edges

the

1/4"

"I11/2"

lower

leading edges should befirstcut at 90 degs. and

thenslightlychamferedto match the needed

dihedral angle.

7.Startconstructionbyfirst

pinning

the

1/4"

1-1/2"

lower leading edges in place, directlyovertheplans.

Note thatthe inboard edges of thesetwoparts ter-

minate at the outer edges of the twooutboard

W-1A's.Next, pin the 3/32"x 1" bottom trailingedge

planking inplace. Now gluethe1/4" x 3/8" trailing

edges in place on the top, rear ofthe 3/32"trailing

edge bottom sheet. Now cut,fitand glue each ofthe

3/32" x 1/4"bottom capstripswhichsitbeneath each

of the W-2A's,W-3'sand W-4's—pinthesein place

over theplan to keep them fromshifting.Using the

3/32"sheetbalsaprovided,measure,cutandgluethe

inboard bottom wingsheetingin place—notegrain

direction.Glue theW-6 wingtipsin place. Now glue

and pin thebottom spar inplace (angled end in-

board) on thebottom wingsheet and thecap strips.

Now glue all W-2A,W-3 and W-4 wingribsinplace.

Make sure thattheseare at rightanglestoyourwork

surface—pinand allowto dry.

8.Glue all of theW-5 angled ribs in place. NOTE:Toob-

tainaflushfit,useyoursanding blocktochamferthe

forwardends of the W-5 ribs where theycontact the

W-3 rib sides.

9.Glue all of the wingtipbraces (W-7, W-8, W-9, W-10

and W-15) in place on theW-6 wingtipsheet. Note

that W-7, W-9 and W-10 need tohave theirinboard

ends chamferedwitha sandingblock to fitflush

the outer face of W-3.

10.Now takethecentersection which wasassembled

earlierand fitittooneofthewingpanels.Tiltituntil

thetwoarmsoftheW-11plydihedralbracesfitflush

to thefrontand rear bottom sheetingand thecenter

brace is correctlypositionedagainstthe bottom

spar. Check thisfitto besure all componentsfit

nicely.Trim as needed to get proper fit.Prop and/or

pinthiscentersectioninthispositionasyouwilluse

it as a guide fortheremainingwingpanel parts.

Remember not to glue anything to the center section

yet; it's only in place for spacing purposes.

11.Gluethefront3/8"x1/2" leading edge inplaceontop

ofthelower1/4"x1-1/2"leadingedgeandagainstthe

front of each fulland half rib (angled end inboard to

fitagainst tiltedcenter section). Glue the top 1/4" x

1/2" spar inplace (angled end inboard). Cut, fitand

glue the3/32" x 1" leading and trailingedge planking

inplace—pinortapetohold.Removethecentersec-

tion fromthewingpanel and repeat the above steps

on theremaining panel.

12.Cut, fitand glue all of the remaining top3/32"x 1/4"

cap stripsin place on all of theribs and half ribs.

13.

Remove the wingpanels fromtheworksurface.In-

spect them forany dried globs of glue, remove these

witha #11 X-actoknife.Tape or hold thetwowing

panels togetherwiththebottoms ofeachfacingthe

other—aligncarefully.Use yoursanding block to

now shape theforwardwingtipsidenticallywith

each other and the curvesshown on theplans. With

the exceptionof theinboard ends, use yoursanding

block tocarefully"match"thewingpanels, leading

edges, tipsand trailingedges. Separate thepanels

and use a sanding block withlight paper over allof

thepanels' surfacesto smooth them forcovering

later (afterfinalassembly).

14.Note on theplans, thepoints shownforthe1/4" sq.

spruceflyingwireanchor points. These are fullrib

depth. If it is your intentiontouse theseoptional

wireson your model, cutand gluetheseanchor

points in place at thistime.Set asidethe completed

wingpanels forfinalassemblylater.

TAIL GROUP

The tailgroup of yourElderis built directlyover the plans

in a quitestraight-forwardmanner. Note thereare op-

tionsopen toyou withtheseparts intermsof shape.The

stab'sgentlecurveswhichterminatein sharp points

thetrailingedge of theelevatorsgive a certain"look,"

whichcan bechanged by rounding the outboard trailing

edges of theelevators.This "softens"the look ofthese

shapes. The same thingcan bedone to thefinand rud-

der, topand bottom—looksnice. Asshown,you can

also scallopthetrailingedges of therudder

and

elevatorstogiveyet another differentlook.

1.Startwiththestab. Build itdirectlyover theplans

whichhave been covered withtheclearbacking

fromMonokote or foodwrap.PositionthetwoS-1

tipsin placeand thecenterS-2aswell;pin. Fromthe

1/4" x 1/2" balsa stockprovided, cut,fitand glue in

place the twoleading edges and thetrailingedge.

Using the same material, cut and gluein place the

"cap" infront of S-2,thus completingthe stab

outline.

2.Cut,fitcarefullyand gluethe1/4"sq.balsaribs(three

perside)inplace.Useshortlengthsof1/4"x1/2"stock

to make thefillets—notegraindirection.

From the1/4" x 1-3/4" balsa stockprovided, measure

and cut the twoelevators.Notch them as shown

accept the1/4" dia. dowel elevatorjoiner.Withthe

stab stillin positionon theworksurface,pin the

elevatorhalves in place. Protectthetrailingedge of

thestab witha stripofwaxedpaper and epoxy the

dowel joinerin place inthe notches—allowto set

completely.

4.Removethe staband elevatorsfromthe plans. Build

thefinnextinthesamemannerusingtheR-1 and R-2

die-cutpieceswith1/4"sq.and1/4"x1/2"balsaframes

shown. Cut therudder to shape fromtheremainder

ofthe

1/4

1-3/4"

balsastock used forthe elevators.

Position the rudder inplaceto the back ofthe finand

glue R-3 inplace to the leading edge of the rudder.

Remove theparts fromyour building board.

5.Using the 3/32"x 1/4" balsa provided, cap stripboth

sides of the finand stab assemblies as shown on the

•plans. Besure, when capping the lower edge of the

fin,to leave a distanceof 3/32"fromthebottom to

allowthe fintofitinto theslot between the twotop

S-3caps. GluethetwoS-3 caps totheuppersurface

of S-2, leaving a 1/4"gap at thecenterlineforthe fin.

Test-fitthefininplace ontop of the stab. With thefin

stillin place,cut,fitandgluetheforward3/32"x 1/4"

cap stripinplace forwardof the fin.Remove the fin.

6.The elevators, stab, finand rudder are now final-

sanded to shape. Startby using masking tape to

mount the elevatorsto thestab. Useasandingblock

to go over all of the outsidesurfacestocarefully

match them. Lay thestab on a flatworkingsurface,

masking tape down, and use thesanding block to

sand it flat.Use thesanding block totaperthe

elevatorsas shown on one side. Tape the

stab/elevator hinge line, turnthestab over,remove

the tape fromthisside, and repeat the process. The

same method is used forthe finand rudder. Once

complete, use sandpaper to round the leading

edges. Set theseparts aside for covering and

assembly to the fuselage.

FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

Before startingconstruction, study the plans and draw-

ings to familiarizeyourselfwithhow the fuselageis

assembled. Note that it really is nothing more than a

basic "box" fuselagewithsemi-formersinthe nosearea

tocreatetherounded cowlingeffect.Thissimpleandef-

fectiveway of making a fuselagecan only beruined in

one way;building it crooked. This can bedone bynot

making thefuselageside framesidenticaland/or mis-

sizing thetop and bottom cross braces. Anothercom-

mon error is to make improper joints.The Elderrelies a

great deal on thestrengthof its frame—makethose

jointsfitcorrectly!Note also that theuprightsand cross

braces are a mix ofboth spruceand balsa. These are

notated.

1.Locate and remove die-cut parts F-5and F-9,two of

each. Securely pin F-5 in place directlyover your

covered fuselageplan. Note thatthebottom aft

sprucelongeron terminatesinthe rear notchin part

F-5.Disregard thecurveof thislongeron fornow.

2.PinF-9inplace directlyovertheplans. Measure and

cut thetop rear sprucelongeron that fitsinplace

from the back of the"tab" on F-9 aftto the tailpost.

(Atool such as an X-actomitrebox and razor saw is

quite good forcuttingspruce.) Glue the top rear

longeron inplace to F-9.

3.Asyou can see fromthe plans and building sket-

ches, thetop 1/4" sq. spruce longeron fitsinplace

fromthefrontedge of the

1/4"

3-5/8"

ply wing

hold-down former.Eventually,when itis installed,

this

ply formerwillbebacked-up with

333/8"

length

of 1/4"x 1/2"balsa. Hold thisformer on edge witha

pieceof1/4"x1/2"behinditandmarkitsforwardloca-

tionon F-9.Cut a length of 1/4"sq. spruce to fitfrom

thismark forwardto the frontfaceof the

firewall-

glue inplace to F-9.

4.Cut, fitand glue the four required 1/4"x 1/2" balsa

uprightsfromCross-SectionB-B back to and in-

cludingthe one beneath the"tab" on part F-9—note

that the bottom, rear longeron willneed to beblock-

ed inplace as the bottom, rear curve starts. As

shown on the plans, a 1/4" balsa doubler ismade to

fitinsideofthefuselageframe,atthenose, between

F-5and the top longeron and against the frontofthe

1/4"x1/2"uprightatSectionB-B.Thisdoubleriscutto

fit1/4"behind thetoplongeroninordertoacceptthe

firewall.Glue thisdoubler inplace.

5.Cut,fitandglue in placetherearmost 1/4" sq. spruce

tailpostupright—besure thatthecorrectangle is

also trimmed into itslower end forthe bottom

longeron. Withtheframefirmlysecured to the

building board, bendthebottom longeron uptomeet

therearmost uprightthat was justinstalled.Glue

and securelyblock thislongeron in place.

6.Cut, fitand glue in place all remaining spruce

uprightswhilebending and block-pinningthebot-

tom, rear longeron in place as you go. This com-

pletes the basic fuselageside frame.Now make a

second, identicalframe.Be absolutelysure that

they'reidentical by building thesecond frame

directlyontopofthefirst,carefullycoveringthefirst

frame withMonokote backing or foodwrap.

7.Holdortapethetwocompletedframestogetherand

use your sanding block tomake sure theyare iden-

tical.Separate them and sand theirsides smooth

(both sides) withthe sanding block.

8.Note on the side viewof the plans forthefuselage

thatthereare six1/4"x 1/2"balsa cross-braceloca-

tionsshown (numbered 1 through6).Allof these

cross-braces,withthe exceptionof #3 (directly

beneath the wing'strailingedge) are 3-1/8" long.

Carefullycut all

five

to length.

is 3-5/8" long,cut

thisoneaswell.Carefullypositionthe twofuselage

framesupside down, over the topviewof the plans.

Block or pin as needed to hold them inplace at right

anglestoyourworksurface.(NOTE: Duetotheslight

incidenceangle intheseframes,theywillnot fitflat

to the surface.This is not important at thistime.)

Locate twoof the1/4"

x3-5/8"

ply formers.Epoxy

these in placeinthenotches locatedon thebottoms

of theF-5's. Glue bottomcross-braces4, 5 and 6 in

placebetweenthetwofuselageframesand allowto

set. Removetheframefromtheworksurface,turnit

overand installthethreeremaining cross-braces,1,

2and3inplace. Nowepoxytheremaining1/4"x 1"x

3-5/8" ply

wing

hold-down former inplace on top of

F-9.

1/4"SQ. SPRUCELONGERONS

CLEARPLASTIC

SHEET

ALL UPRIGHTS 1/4"SQ. SPRUCE

AFTOF THISLINE

IN THEFIRSTSTEP, THEFUSELAGESIDESAREASSEMBLEDDIRECTLYON

FUSELAGEPLANTO KEEPFRAMEFROMBEINGGLUEDTO PLAN,USE

MONOKOTEBACKINGORCLEARPLASTICFOODWRAPWHENFIRSTSIDE

HASBEEN ASSEMBLED,AGAINUSECLEARPLASTICSHEETTO KEEP

SECONDSIDEFROMADHERINGTO THEFIRSTSIDEFRAME

ALLUPRIGHTS1/4"X 1/2"BALSA

FORWARDOF THISLINE

THE FIRST PHASEOF SHEETINGIS

SHOWNIN STEP

3--(1/8"

SHEET,

APPLIED

WITHGRAINACROSSTHEFUSELAGE)

STEP2 - JOINBOTH SIDESWITH1/4"X 1/2"BALSA

CROSSPIECESASSHOWNALSOGLUEFIREWALL

(1/4" PLY-3-3/8"X3-5/8")INPLACE

STEP3-ADDTHREE1/4"PLY (1" X3-5/8")CROSSPIECESAS

SHOWN(TWOAREL G MOUNTS,ONEATFUSELAGETOP)THEN

BEVELINNERREARENDSOFFRAMESANDGLUETOGETHER.

CUTREMAININGCROSSPIECESTOSIZE(BEVELENDSFORAN

EXACTFIT)ANDGLUEINPLACE.

1/4"

PLY,

X 3-5/8"

THIS"FIRSTSTEP"

SKETCH,

SECONDSIDEHASBEEN MADE

ANDIS SEPARATEDFROM

FIRST SIDEBY PLASTIC

SHEET.

FIREWALL

9.Locate the 1/4"ply firewall.You must now use the

plans to locatethepositionof your motor mount on

the firewall.This mount is installedinverted.Mark

the locationofthe fourmountingholes ontothe

firewall.Use a drilltodrilltheholes throughthe

firewallwitha 1/8"dia. bit. Epoxy thefour4-40 blind

mounting nuts inplace to the back of the firewallin-

to the holes justdrilled—keepingadhesiveout of

the threads.Test mount the motor mount withthe

4-40 x 7/8"boltsprovided. Remove themount and

epoxythefirewalltothefrontofthefuselageframe.

Align itcarefullyand allowto cure.

10.Use your sanding block and medium sandpaper to

now go over the frame. Make sure the edges are all

square and clean.

11.Locate and assemble, if needed, the fueltank that

you plan to use. This airplane can use either8,10or

12oz.fueltanks.(WeshowtheDu-Bro12oz.fueltank

mounted upright inthe nose.) Fit your tank into the

nose-ofthefuselageframe.Use short (3")lengthsof

scrap balsa stockto make "support" forit. Withthe

fuselageopen at thistime, it'seasy to see ifthetank

willsit level—adjustas needed. Inthisway,when

the fuselageis done, yourtank can be insertedfrom

the wing opening into thenose and removed, if need-

ed,withassurance that itismounted correctly.Now

usea3/16"drillbittodrillthetworequired holesfor

the fueltank (one forfuelfeed and fillingand the

other forthe pressure tap and overflow).Remove the

tank.

12.Drill and tapthe holes necessary inthe motor mount

to attachyour engine (we like to use 4-40 Allen-head

bolts forthispurpose). Attachthemotor mount to

the firewalland theengine tothemount. Byviewing

fromthefront,determinethelocationof thethrottle

tubehousing exithole. Thisshould be lined-up with

thecarb'sthrottlearm. Drill a3/16"dia. hole through

the firewallforthistube.Rough-up theouter surface

of theouterthrottletube housing and glue it in place

inthefirewall—about3/16"ofit should protrudeout

fromthefaceof the firewall,therest of it runs into

the radio compartment. Besure your tank stillfits

nicely.

13.The servos shown on the plans are of average con-

figuration;however, yoursmay be different(taller,

wider,etc.). The Elderwillacceptalmost any radio

system. Lay thefuselageframeovertheside viewof

the plans and lay one of the servos in place.

Remember thatthese servoswillbemounted on the

1/8"plyservo tray.Observe if yourservoswillfit.Cut,

notch, fitand gluethe 1/4" x 1/2" balsa servo tray

bearers inplace between thetwouprights in the

radio (servo) compartment.Theirouter edges should

beflushwiththe rest ofthefuselageframe.

14.You can now sheet thebottom ofthefuselagefrom

the nose (between thetwolanding gear formers)

backtothe2nd bottom 1/4" x 1/4"crossbrace—don't

sheet any furtherback. Note thissheet is applied

crossgrain. Use yoursanding block to sand the

edges flushwiththeframesides. Sand thelanding

gear mounts and sheeting to a smooth curvewhen

viewedfromtheside.

15.Use the 1/8"x 6" x 21" balsa to now make the primary

fuselagesides. Lay thefuselageframeon the sheet

withthe forwardedge ofitlined up withthe vertical

line atSectionB-B. Use a pencil totracethefuselage

side outlineontothesheeting.Cut out the fuselage

side and glue it in place, repeatingtheprocessfor

the other side. Use your sanding block to again true-

up edges and generallytidythefuselage.

16.Stand the fuselageon itsnose, firewallflatto the

work surface.Locate and gluein place thetwoside

F-4formersto the firewallsides and flushwithits

front face.

17.Locate and glue half-formersF-6and F-7together

(note that the bottoms of theseformersare flush

withone another thus providinga 1/8" shelfaround

the outsideforthe nose sheeting). Now accurately

glue theF-6/7 formerin place across thefuselageat

SectionB-B.

18.Locate and accurately pin inplace the wing center

sectionto thetop of thefuselage—takeyour time

and locate itas accuratelyas possible. Use a 1/4"

dia. bit to drill throughF-6/7, the leading edge and

dihedral brace of thecentersection(backingup the

dihedral brace witha piece ofscrap wood avoids

splinteringasthedrill bit pass through). Remove the

center sectionand set aside fornow. Once again,

stand thefuselageon itsnose, flaton thework sur-

faceandglue the top F-3 former in place on top of the

firewalland flushwithits frontface.

19.Measure, cut and glue inplace thetop 1/4" sq. balsa

cowllongeron, whichfitsfromthenotch in F-6,

throughF-3 and out to theF-2 location.Cut, fitand

gluethetwoside1/4"

sq.balsa cowllongeronswhich

fitin the notches provided in theF-4's. Temporarily

installcowlformerF-2 inplace on the three ends of

the cowllongerons. Observehow thisformer is sit-

tinginplace. Viewedfromtheside and top, itshould

beparallelwiththefirewall.Use a rulerto be sure

and trimtheends of thelongerons to achievethis

goal. Once satisfied,glue F-2 in place to the ends of

these longerons. Now cut,fitand glue the1/4" sq.

balsasheetingsupport pieces(2)thatfitfromtherear

faceof theF-4back to the uprightsat SectionB-B.

Note theseare angled and must bebeveled to fit.

NowgluetheforwardcowlformerF-1 in placeto F-2,

leaving a 1/8"shelf"around itsperimeter forthe

cowlsheet. Lastly, gluethetworequired lengths of

1/4" sq. balsa inplacefromthebottom, outsidecor-

ners ofF-1downto thebottom, outsidecornersof

the F-4's. Bevel the ends of these to fitcorrectly.

20.The sheeting sequence diagram illustrates exactly

how and in what sequence thenose and cowlis

covered. Wettingthe 1/8" balsa sheetinghelps itto

conformto therequiredcurves. Take yourtimeto

achieve an accurate, gap-freefitbefore glueing

these piecesin place. CAadhesivesworkverywellin

thisarea, eliminatingtheneed forpins. If you have

taken

yourtime

and fittedthesepieces in placewith

aminimum of gaps, all that remains is sanding to

shape.

21.Use a sanding blockto bevel theinside ends of the

sprucefuselageframeworkat thetailpost—see

plans. Once satisfied,gluetheseends accurately

togetherprovidingequal bends toeach side ofthe

fuselagewhen viewedfromthetop. Accuratelycut

six(6)pairsof topand bottom 1/4 " sq. sprucecross-

braces whichwillfitfromSection C-C back tothe

tailpost.We suggest cuttingthetopand bottom

braces at the same timeto ensure equal length. Glue

these inplace, workingfromthefrontto theback.

SHEETINGSEQUENCE-

FRONT OF FUSELAGE

NOTE THATEACHPIECE OF 1/8"

SHEETBALSAIS APPLIED

"BY THENUMBERS"

OPPOSITESIDE IS

COVEREDIN A

SIMILARMANNER

REDUCEDSIZEDETAILOF

ALL FIVEPIECESBUTT-

JOINEDTOGETHER

Again,accuratelyposition the wingcenter section

assembly in place on thefuselage,itsleading edge

against F-7.Locate thetaperedhardwood center

section'strailingedge and part W-14A. Hold these

twoparts in place against thecenter section'strail-

ingedgeand,withapencil,drawalineacrossthe14"

x1/2" balsa cross-braceto indicate wherethe top,

rear fuselagesheetingbegins. Remove and set-

aside thecentersectionand theother parts fornow.

Finishsheetingthefuselagewithcross-grained1/8"

balsa, fromthe linejustdrawn to where the fuselage

sides end.

Withtheexceptionof finalsanding and rounding as

shown on the plans,the fuselage is now complete.

LANDING GEAR AND TAILSKID ASSEMBLY

The pre-bent frontand rear 1/8" dia. M.W. landing gear

(L/G) formsmust bejoinedtogetherat the bottom,

towardsthewheels.We recommend softcopperwirefor

firmlywrappingthe twopieces together priorto solder-

ing.We wouldhighly recommend theuse of HARRIS'S

STAY-CLEAN FLUXandtheirsilversolderforthisopera-

tion. Althougha soldering iron willwork, withpatience,

these jointscan bequicklyand permanently made with

the use of a small hobby-type gas torch.

1.Locate the position ofthe rear "cross-axle"wireto

the bottom rearply L/G plateon thefuselagebottom.

Whileholding thewirein place, slip thetwoformed

metal clipsonto thewire.Use a pencil to mark the

hole locationsof theseclipsonto theply base, then

remove thewireand clips.Drill shallow,small-

diameter "guide holes" fortheclip'sscrews.Now

attachthe landing gearwiretothefuselagewiththe

clips and the #2 x3/8" screwsprovided—noneed to

overtighten.Repeat this process with the forward

landing gear wire.

2.Pull the twocomponents togetheruntilthey touch.

The twoshort bent "arms" on theforwardleg should

line-up withthelegs of therear L/G wire.If needed,

use plierstoadjust thesearms until theyfitneatly.

3.Usesoftcopperwiretoneatlywraptheforwardshort

OPTIONAL

DECORATION

DETAIL-

1/4"LENGTHS OF 3/32" OR 1/8"DIA. PLASTIC

TUBINGCANBE EPOXIEDINTO EACH JOINT

BETWEENA SPRUCECROSSBRACEAND

UPRIGHT(16 PLACES).LATER,"RIGGING"IS

THREADEDTHROUGHEACHTUBE, DRAWN

TIGHTANDEPOXIEDIN PLACE.

armstotherearL/Gwireasshownontheplans.App-

ly some STAY-CLEAN fluxto thejointand solder.

Repeattheprocessontheotherside. Beneatandtry

to besure that thejointis solid withouta lot of ex-

cess solder. Once satisfied,completely clean the

solder jointsof any flux.

4.As shown, the crossed-axle landing gearsystem

derives its ability to accept landing loads and shock

fromthe two(2)independent axlelegs. These need

to bejoined

twopoints, each

2-1/2"

fromthe

wheels. This distancehas shown verygood shock-

absorbing abilityforElder'sweighing4 to 6 lbs. Join

these axles

firstmeasuring the

2-1/2"

distance

re-

quired, wrapping withsoftwire(about 1/2" ) and

soldering. Again, clean the solderjoints completely.

FRONT ANDREAR

STRUTS AREBOUND

TOGETHERWITHFINE

COPPERWIRE,THEN

SOLDERED

THOROUGHLY.

FOR PERMANENCE.

RETAINWHEELSON

AXLEWITHWASHERS.

SOLDEREDIN PLACE.

ALTERNATEMETHOD

IS TO USE WHEEL

COLLARS.*

BINDAXLESECTIONSOF LANDING

GEARTOGETHERWITHTHINCOPPERWIRE,

THENSOLDERPER DIMENSIONSSHOWN.

5.The same process is now used to make the rear

tailskidassembly. First bend the1/16"dia. M.W. pro-

vided to theshape shown using pliers.Wrap thetip

of theskidwith softcopper wireand solder. Now

tapethemain skid wireinplace tothebottom rear of

the fuselage.Locate the pre-bent tailskidsupport

wireand wrapitinplacetothetailskidwithsoftwire.

Solder itinplace to the skid. Remove the assembly

fromthe fuselage and again, clean thesolder joints

completely.

6.Remove the main landing gear from the fuselage.

The landing gear and tailskidare now completeand

can beused as is or painted flatblack or aluminum

(we use epoxy paintsforthisas wellas other pain-

tingneedson thisairplane). Aswedid on someofour

prototypes,you may wishtoadd wood backing to

thewires.Sand thesetoairfoilshapeand paintthem

awood color—looksgreat!We used 1/8" x 1/4" hard

balsa witha 1/8" dia. "groove" sanded into one edge,

carefullyfittingthe piece in place. We glued the

wood to themetal withthickCA adhesive and sand-

ed the wholeaffairsmooth. Then we used clear,

paintable Monokote to cover the"wooded" parts of

thelanding gear toprovide a one-piece look and air-

brushed wood-colored epoxy paint on the whole

thing.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

1.Locate one of the 1/4" dia. x 36" dowels provided in

yourkitand cuta3"length, thisto be used forthe for-

wardwinghold-down. Insert thisdowel intothewing

center-section,

leaving 1/4"-3/8"of it exposedinfront

ofthe leading edge to engage theF-6/F-7 former

assembly withthe previouslydrilledhole. Now in-

stallthecentersectionin placeon thefuselagewith

thedowel engaging the hole inF-6/F-7, again being

surethatit is squarelyinplace. Liberallyapplyepoxy

around and beneath thisdowel, inthewingcenter

sectionarea. Next,position and gluein place the

tworemaining W-1A half ribs into positionon each

side ofthedowel.Fill theresultingcavityabove the

dowel withmore epoxyand allowthe structure

cure.

2.Removethecentersectionfromthefuselage.Carve

and sand theshort leading edge sectionto shape,

matching the twoleading edges of the wingpanels.

3.The twowingpanels can now bepermanently at-

tached to thewingcentersection.We recommend

thatyou use epoxy forthisoperation. Withthe

centersectionflaton your building surface, slidethe

twopanels in positionontothe exposed arms of the

front,centerand rear dihedralbraces. The fitshould

be accurate;thefrontbrace fitsagainsttheback

faceofthepanel'sleading edge, the centerbrace is

incontactwithboth the top and bottom spars and

therear brace is inside of thetop and bottom rear

trailingedge sheet strips.The panel's spars, leading

edges and trailing edges should also becleanlycon-

tactingtheoutsidesurfaceofthecentersection's

sides. Take timehere to ensure that thisisthe case

beforecommittingto actual attachment. Locate or

make a couple of 3/4" high supportsforthewingtips

to provide the required dihedral angle. Now epoxy

the panels inplace tothecenter section—don'tuse

so much glue that itruns or dripsbut enough to pro-

videa good gluejoint.One-hourepoxyisbest forthis

step. Allowthe structuretocure completely.

4.Asshown on the plans, a forwardand rear "cockpit"

formerwasmadefrom3/32"sheet,placedin-between

the twoinboard W-1 B's, full-depthto thesetworibs.

Besurethat the forwardcockpitformerisfarenough

back to allow insertion of your aileronservo.

5.The twoinboard panel rib bays (between W-2B and

W-1B)andthecentersectioncannowbecompletely

sheeted, cross-grain,as shown. We have foundthat

itis helpful,when glueingthissheetingin place, to

"share" the widthof thecenter section'soutboard

W-1Aand B ribswithboth thewingpanel and center

section'ssheeting edges, thusprovidinga glueing

surfaceforboth. When dry, use sandpaper to

smooth thewood and tomatchthe sheeting withthe

leading edges.

6.Inthis step you are going to assemble the hardwood

trailingedge and aileron torque tubesand wiresto

the wingcentersection—pleasereferto thedetail

drawingprovided to understand thepartsrelation-

ship. Glue thetwoW-14B's inplace to theforward

faceof thehardwood trailingedge, theiroutboard

ends flushwiththe outboardends ofthe trailing

edge. Note that there is a right and left ailerondrive

assembly. Asshown, thetrailingedge must be

grooved a littleto allow aftmovement of the thread-

ed linkage arms. Dothisnow witheithera rat-tailfile

or a Moto-tooland router bit. Now glue W-14A in

place, thus providinga "nest" foreach ofthetorque

rod assemblies. Asshown, knock-offthecornersof

W-14A toallow torque rod movement. Rough-up the

brass sleeves on each ofthe torquerod assemblies

and carefullygluethem inplacewithone-hourepoxy

—do not get adhesive on the torque rod arms.

SHORTBENTLEGFITSHOLE

ANDTUBEINROOTENDOF

SHAPEDAILERON(SEE

WING

THISLEG OF

AILERONTORQUE

RODCONNECTSTO

SERVOLINKAGE

SHAPEDHARDWOODWING

MOUNT(NOTECLEARANCE

SLOTS"X")TOALLOWFORE

ANDAFTMOVEMENTOF

AILERONTORQUERODARM

1/4"X 3/8'; T.E. (NOTE CLEARANCE

SLOTS FOR AILERONTORQUE

RODMOVEMENT)

DETAIL OF WINGCENTER SECTION

AT TRAILINGEDGE

(ASSEEN FROMBELOW)

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