Swisher ZT2452A Mode d'emploi

REPAIR MANUAL

ZT2452A

Swisher Mower Co

Warrensburg, MO

Table of Contents

Belt Routing …………………………………………….……. 4

Wiring Diagram ………………………………………….…. 4

Diagnosing Starting Problems …………..…….…….. 5

Diagnosing PTO Clutch Problems ………………..…..6

Engine Running in Normal Mode ……………………..7

Battery Charging System ………………………………….8

Seat Switch – Ignition Kill Circuit …………………….. 8

Wiring Harness to Engine Plug Connection ………. 9

Drive Control Handle Adjustment …………….……. 10

Parking Brake Adjustment ……………………….…….. 10

Deck Repairs ………………………………………….………. 11

Replacement Parts – Quick Reference ………..…… 12

BELT ROUTING

Deck belt

Part# 3816 Transmission Belt# 4220

WIRING DIAGRAM

DIAGNOSING STARTING PROBLEMS

The gray wire connected to the L terminal

on the ignition switch is also connected to

the B terminal when the switch is turned

to the crank position. This wire supplies

current to the engine plug where it is sent

to the fuel solenoid on the carburetor. This

allow fuel to be pulled into the engine.

STARTER SOLENOID

You will notice that each position on the ignition switch sets up a certain section of the

total wiring diagram. This section is energized by turning the ignition switch to the start

position. The final purpose is to start the engine. The main components are the battery

and the starter; the other components are sub-switches to allow the current to get from

the battery to the starter. The solenoid is a heavy duty switch, designed to handle the

large amount of current needed to crank the engine. That’s why the cables are so big; to

handle that current. The other switches are for safety purposes to keep the mower from

moving; or the blades from turning; until the engine is running and ready to safely start

the mowing process.

The current needed to energize the solenoid is picked up at one of the large terminals on

the solenoid where the positive battery cable is connected. The current travels to the

ignition switch by going through the fuse. The B and S contacts are connected inside the

switch only when the switch is turned to the crank position. In order to close the contacts

inside, the PTO switch has to be turned off; the steering control arms must be pushed

outward to close both of the neutral switches; and the parking brake must be engaged to

close the brake switch. The current can then energize the coil inside the solenoid to

engage the contacts that short against the backside of the two large terminals on the

solenoid. This then passes the current from the battery to the starter.

Diagnosing a problem then involves making sure that the fuse is good, that all the wires

are connected and all switches are activated and making connection to pass the current.

NEUTRAL SWITCH

ON CONTROL ARM

PARKING

BRAKE SWITCH

DIAGNOSING PTO CLUTCH PROBLEMS

The electric clutch can be activated when the ignition switch is in the run position.

For the purpose of checking out a problem with the circuit; the engine doesn’t

have to be running; the switch just needs to be in the run position.

First the battery has to have a full charge. Current will flow from the battery to the

connecting point at the solenoid. From there it flows through the red wire,

through the fuse and onto the ignition switch. If the switch is in the run position,

current will flow on to PTO switch. When the PTO switch is pulled on; a

connection is made to pass the current to the clutch. For the current to continue

on; there must be a good ground connection for the white wire.

Checking the circuit is done by following the circuit

from the battery to the ground; making sure that all

wiring has good connectors and switches are making

connection. A voltage meter is a good tool to check for

voltage at each connection and each switch. If there is

voltage on the brown wire at the clutch, but it still

won’t engage, you probably have a defective clutch.

Make sure it has a good ground on the white wire

before you replace it.

Apply a negative ground to this terminal

Apply 12 volts to this terminal. Clutch should

activate, if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.

ENGINE IN NORMAL RUNNING MODE

First the battery was used to start the engine; and

later it will be used to engage the PTO; but with the

ignition switch in the run position, and the engine

running, the battery is involved in three other

function. The red wire coming from the engine plug to

the terminal on the solenoid is used by the engine’s

alternator to charge the battery.

The gray wire coming from the L

terminal on the ignition switch

to the hour meter will drive the

meter; but first the green wire

has to be grounded. This is done

by the pressure switch in the

engine; next to the oil filter.

When the oil pressure is created

by the oil pump; this switch

closes and makes a connection

to ground for the green wire.

Only then does the meter begin

to run.

Also attached to the gray wire at the hour meter is another gray wire going to

the engine plug. It will connect to a gray wire going to the rear of the engine ,

to the carburetor. It powers the solenoid that opens the carburetor jet. The

black wire gives the circuit a ground .

Voltage

Regulator

SEAT SWITCH –IGNITION KILL CIRCUIT

The seat switch is designed to kill the ignition on the engine, if the operator leaves

the seat, with the PTO engaged. The black wire at the engine plug is connected to

the kill wire that goes to the ignition module. Since the M terminal on the ignition

switch is also used to kill the engine when the switch is turned off; the seat switch

circuit is also connected there. When the PTO is on, a connection is made at that

switch to join the M terminal to the seat switch. Now if he leaves the seat, the

circuit is completed to ground the ignition module; and the engine shuts down.

Whether the operator is

on the seat or not, the

engine won’t start if the

seat plug is not completely

inserted. The small trigger

in the center must be flush

with the end of the plug;

or the plug itself will cause

a short to ground to kill

the ignition.

Red wire goes to the engine plug and then on to

the positive terminal of the solenoid to keep the

battery charged. Easiest way to check if charging is

taking place is to measure the DC voltage of the

battery before you start the engine. Then start the

engine. Measure the voltage at the battery with

the engine running. The voltage should be at least

one volt higher right after the engine is started.

This voltage will drop a little as the battery gets

recharged.

To test alternator before it goes to the regulator, unplug the yellow connector and

measure the AC voltage across the two gray wires inside this connecter. There

should be at least 20 volts AC while the engine is running.

Voltage

Regulator

BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM

PTO SWITCH

WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION

WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE

Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel solenoid

Green wire goes to oil pressure switch

Black wire goes to engine ignition module

Red wire goes to engine charging system

Green wire goes to hour meter

Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid

with the positive battery cable.

Black wire goes to the ignition switch

Gray wire goes to hour meter

Red wire goes to

terminal on solenoid

with the positive

battery cable.

Black wire goes to the

ignition switch.

Gray wire goes to hour meter

Green wire goes to hour meter

DRIVE CONTROL HANDLE ADJUSTMENT

Before any adjustments are made to the drive control arms; put an equal amount

of air pressure in both rear wheel. If you push both handles forward as far as they

will go and they are straight across from each other; but one side is traveling faster

than the other; shorten the linkage on the side that is going the fastest.

If when you push both handles forward as far as they will go and the traveling

speed is the same on both sides so that you are going in a straight line; but one

handle is further forward than the other; shorten the linkage on the handle that is

further ahead.

The adjustment linkage is between the bottom of

the control arm and the hydro. There is one on each

side of the mower. To adjust, remove the hair pin at

the bottom of the control arm. Loosen the jam nut

and turn the threads in to shorten the linkage.

Reconnect the rod and hair pin and tighten the jam

nut. Test drive, and further adjust if needed.

PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTMENT

With the parking brake off; make sure the tooth arm and

the cog wheel are close to each other without touching.

Adjust the nut on the rod to achieve the clearance. Turn

the wheel by hand to see that there is no contact. Now

engage the parking brake to see if the two mate to keep

the wheel from turning. When adjustment is done;

engage the hydro and lower the jack. Repeat the

adjustment for the opposite side. Order new parts if

tooth arm or cog wheel are damaged.

The parking brake is a positive lock on the transaxle to keep

the mower stable when parked. It is not designed to be

used to stop the moving mower. Compare it to the Park

position on an automatic transmission in a car or pickup. If

it is used to stop the mower while in motion, the cog

system will be damaged. It is replaceable; but not a part

that will be covered under warranty. It does need to be

adjusted periodically.

To adjust; jack up one of the rear wheel. Disengage the

hydro by pulling back on the yellow handle down below

the rear of the engine mounting plate.

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