Swisher Z-MAX ZT2560 Mode d'emploi

REPAIR MANUAL

ZT2560

Swisher Mower Co

Warrensburg, MO

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. If engine won’t crank

2. If engine won’t crank – continued

3. If engine cranks but won’t start

If engine stalls when PTO is engaged

4. If PTO clutch will not engage

Hour meter not operating

5. Wire identification at switches

6. Wire identification at switches – continued

7. Drive control adjustment

8. Drive control adjustment – continued

Drive control overview

9. Electrical components

10. Parking brake and neutral switch operation

11. Deck lifting system

12. Deck belt replacement

13. Repairing or replacing blade driver

14. Replacement Parts – Quick reference

IF ENGINE WON’T CRANK

ALWAYS CHECK FUSE FIRST

TEST #1

Using a remote starter switch or suitable device, make a

connection between the large terminals on the solenoid.

If engine does not crank!!!

•Battery may be weak or dead

•Starter may be bad

•Battery cables may have bad connections

•Do not go to Test #2 until this test gives results

TEST #2

If engine did crank in test #1, disconnect green wire at

spade connector and apply positive voltage from the

battery to the primary wire on the solenoid. Make sure

the one with the eyelet is grounded. If engine doesn’t

crank now, replace the solenoid.Remember, all other

tests are useless unless these two tests make the

engine turn over.

TEST #3

If engine did crank in the first part of test #2, reconnect

green wire to solenoid. Make sure the drive controls are

out in neutral position. Using a jumper wire attached to

the positive terminal of the battery, apply 12 volts to

the red wire on terminal B of the ignition switch. Try to

crank, using the ignition switch. If engine cranks, the

fuse or the fuse holder, or related wiring is defective

somewhere back to the solenoid.

TEST #4

If engine did not crank in test #3, make sure the drive

controls are in neutral position. This time move the

jumper wire attached to the positive terminal of the

battery, to the green wire on S terminal of the ignition

switch. If all components in the circuit are working, the

engine should crank. If it doesn’t, move on to next test.

A neutral switch is located on the lower end of both

drive control handles and is activated when the handles

are outward in the neutral position. Check that the

plunger buttons on both switches are depressed at least

3/8”. Meter should go to zero when checking continuity

across switch terminals with plungers depressed.

With PTO switch in

the off position, meter

should go to zero

when checking

continuity across these

two terminals.

If any of the switches in this circuit tested bad, install a new

one and perform Test #4 again. If all switches are good, a

connecting wire must be at fault. Don’t move past Test #4

until it assures a good circuit. When you do get good results,

hook all wires back to original position and try the ignition

switch again. If no results, you will need to replace the

ignition switch.

ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON’T START

Checks for electrical problems

•While turning ignition switch to its first position, listen for the fuel solenoid on the

carburetor to click. It must click to supply fuel to the carburetor.

•Try a new spark plug.

•Check for spark at plug when it is removed and the threaded end is grounded.

•Unplug the six-position socket that connects engine wiring to mower wiring harness.

Engine will still crank. If plug doesn’t have a spark now, ignition module is probably

defective.

Checks for mechanical problems

•Make sure the tank gas valve is turned on.

•Remove air filter element to check for signs of gas in the throat of the carburetor.

•If no gas, check to see if choke is working properly.

•If all above checks show positive, carburetor must have an internal problem. Remove and

clean the carburetor.

ENGINE STALLS WHEN PTO IS ENGAGED

The seat safety switch plug not being properly inserted, or a

defective plug can cause this problem. If the plug is not

inserted or is defective, the spark plug is grounded out when

the PTO is engage.

To check, remove plug from the PTO switch. Using an

ohmmeter, place one probe on the terminal connected to the

black wire going to the seat safety switch plug. Place the

other probe on a good chassis ground. The meter should be

on zero with no weight on the seat. Pulling the seat down

should open the circuit.

IF PTO CLUTCH WILL NOT ENGAGE

HOUR METER NOT OPERATING

Hour meter has a positive and a

negative post. Gray wire should go on

the positive. Power is supplied from the

ignition switch.

Green wire from hour meter is

grounded by the oil pressure switch,

therefore only has a ground when the

engine is running.

Apply a negative ground to this terminal

Apply 12 volts to this terminal. Clutch should activate,

if it doesn’t, clutch is defective.

If clutch checks OK, use a voltmeter to measure if

there is 12 volts at the brown wire’s terminal. First

turn ignition switch to the ON position but don’t start

the engine. Now engage the PTO switch. For the first

test put the negative probe on a good ground, not on

the white wire’s terminal in the plug. If no voltage is

measured, move on to next test.

If all checked good in the two previous tests, the

problem may now be a poor ground on the white wire

in the clutch plug. Check by testing for continuity to

ground or check for voltage between the two terminals

With the PTO switch ON there should be continuity

between these two connectors, if not, replace switch. If

switch tested good, check wires and connectors back

to ignition switch and back to clutch plug.

WIRE IDENTIFICATION AT SWITCHES

3623 IGNITION SWITCH

STARTER SOLENOID

Heavy red cable

goes to the starter.

Red wire goes to

ignition switch.

Green wire goes to

neutral switches

and on to the

ignition switch.

Green wire with

orange stripe goes

to the ground.

Red wire goes

to engine plug.

Heavy red cable

goes to the

positive post of the

battery.

PTO SWITCH PLUG

One white wire goes to clutch

and other one goes to ground.

Red wire goes to fuse and

on to battery positive at

the solenoid terminal.

Green wire goes to PTO switchOne gray wire goes to the

PTO switch and the other

goes to the hour meter

One black wire goes

to PTO switch and

the other goes to the

engine plug

Black wire goes to the seat

switch.

Green wire goes to the

neutral switches.

Brown wire goes to the

clutch.

Gray wire goes to the

ignition switch.

Green wire goes to the

ignition switch.

Black wire goes to the

ignition switch.

WIRING HARNESS TO ENGINE PLUG CONNECTION

Gray wire goes to carburetor fuel solenoid

Green wire goes to oil pressure switch

Black wire goes to engine ignition module

Red wire goes to engine charging system

Green wire goes to hour meter

Red wire goes to terminal on solenoid

with the positive battery cable.

Black wire goes to the ignition switch.

Gray wire goes to hour meter

WIRING HARNESS PLUG TO ENGINE

Gray wire goes to hour meter

Green wire goes to hour meter

Red wire goes to

terminal on solenoid

with the positive

battery cable.

Black wire goes to the

ignition switch.

BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM

To test alternator before it goes to the

regulator, unplug the yellow connector

and measure the AC voltage across the

the two gray wires inside this

connector.There should be at least 20

volts AC.

CARBURETOR FUEL SOLENOID

Red wire goes to the engine plug and

then on to the positive terminal of the

solenoid to keep the battery charged.

Easiest way to check if the charging is

taking place is to measure the DC

voltage of the battery before you start the

engine. Then start the engine. Measure

the voltage at the battery with the engine

running. The voltage should be at least

one volt higher right after the engine is

started. This voltage will drop a little as

the battery gets recharged.

Voltage

Regulator

Black wire goes to engine ground.

Gray wire goes to the engine plug,

then on to the ignition switch where it

receives power to activate the fuel shut

off valve.

Fuel shut off solenoid is a Briggs part

and is available through them only.

DRIVE CONTROL ADJUSTMENTS

LEFT SIDE SHOWN

Control plate shown

in neutral position

Hydro linkage

Start your adjustments by putting the

drive control arms in the neutral position.

Remove the linkage from the control

plate at the Eaton hydro by removing the

cotter pin and washer on the under side.

By moving the control plate forward and

backwards by hand you can easily find

the neutral position on the hydro.

With the drive control handles in the

neutral position, this linkage pivot should

be close to straight up and down.

With control plate on hydro still in the

neutral position, try to put hydro linkage

back into the hole on the plate. If it won’t

go in without forcing one way or the

other, adjust threads here to make an

easy hookup.

With the control linkage once again

removed, move the control plate forward

as far as it will go.

Move the control handle forward until

this linkage contacts the adjusting bolt in

front of it.Again try to put the control

linkage in to the control plate. Do not

adjust the control linkage to make this

happen, adjust the bolt in front instead.

This adjusting bolt will now be used to

set both drive wheels to pull equally.

With the control handles fully forward,

observe which side is turning the fastest.

Extend the bolt rear ward to slow the

travel of that side until they are pulling

the same on both sides.

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