Stanford Research Systems SR86 Series Mode d’emploi

JFET Replacement Instructions for

the SR86x Lock-In Amplifier Family

The input voltage preamplifier uses a low-noise matched JFET, Q202, as the front-end

active component. This component is sensitive and may be damaged by overvoltage,

including overvoltage from a static discharge (ESD). There may be situations in which

the user suspects a damaged or destroyed input JFET. Symptoms of a damaged JFET can

be excess noise, or partial or complete signal loss.

The SR86x series lock-in amplifiers are designed to permit the user to replace the input

JFET in the field if needed. The entire process should take about 90 minutes, including

the 60-minute warm-up period needed after replacing the JFET before trimming the

offset voltage.

Materials

To do this, you will need:

1. Replacement JFET (obtained from SRS)

2. Phillips head screwdriver

3. Hex wrenches, imperial size 7/64, and 0.050

page 2 of 12

Procedure

Work should be performed in an ESD-controlled environment or workstation. Be sure

the technician is grounded before opening the instrument.

1. Turn off power to the unit, and remove the AC power cord. Disconnect all other

cables from the SR865. To access the preamplifier, the top and bottom covers

must be removed from the unit.

2. Remove the top and bottom covers

2.1. Remove the 4 large black screws from the top cover (2 on each side):

2.2. Remove the 6 small black screws from the top cover:

page 3 of 12

2.3. Remove the top cover. Turn the instrument upside down, carefully

resting on the top. Remove the 4 large black screws from the bottom cover (2

on each side):

2.4. Remove the 6 small black screws from the bottom cover:

page 4 of 12

3. Turn the instrument on its side, so the “SIGNAL”section is near the top:

4. Disconnect the white coax cable, and the RJ-style modular cable, from the

preamplifier enclosure. Do not attempt to disconnect the ribbon cable yet:

page 5 of 12

5. While supporting the metal preamplifier enclosure, remove the two #6 size hex

screws securing the preamp to the chassis, using a 7/64 hex driver. Be careful to

not lose the washers beneath each hex screw:

6. Carefully back the preamp enclosure out of the instrument chassis.

6.1. Pull the box back from the front panel so the BNC connectors all slide back

out of the instrument. Be careful to not tug on the remaining ribbon cable

connected to the preamp.

6.2. With the preamp enclosure removed from the chassis, remove the two

screws holding the ribbon cable to the preamp:

Once the screws are removed, disconnect the ribbon cable from the preamp.

page 6 of 12

7. Open the preamp assembly by removing the two small hex screws from the front

(using the 0.050 hex driver), and the 6 Phillips head screws:

Remove the lid to the preamp assembly.

8. Locate Q202, the input JFET (socketed):

page 7 of 12

9. Carefully remove the old part from socket Q202 part (mark the old part first to

avoid possible confusion). If necessary, trim and form the leads for the

replacement JFET to match the removed part. Notice that two of the socket

positions on Q202 are left empty—it is critical that the new part be installed with

this same orientation, leaving the top and bottom contacts empty:

10.Install the replacement JFET, applying gentle pressure to fully seat all 6 leads

into the socket receptacles. When fully seated, it should look like this:

page 8 of 12

11.Reinstall the lid for the preamp enclosure.

11.1. Be sure to align the lid so the front lip is interior to the enclosure walls;

the side and rear lips should be exterior to the walls:

11.2. Loosely thread the two small hex screws in the front, but do not tighten.

11.3. Loosely thread the remaining 6 Phillips screws, again without tightening.

11.4. Tighten the two small hex screws fully. Do not overtighten.

11.5. Tighten the remaining 6 Phillips screws.

12.Re-attach the ribbon cable. Be careful to not stress the ribbon cable

page 9 of 12

13.Slide the preamp enclosure back into the instrument chassis.

13.1. Check that the BNC connectors are fully engaged and flush to the front

panel

partial: fully:

13.2. Apply pressure to keep the preamp engaged when reinstalling the two #6

hex screws. Be sure to install one washer with each screw:

14.Reconnect the coax and RJ-style connectors:

page 10 of 12

15.Turn the instrument upside down, and reinstall the bottom cover.

15.1. Loosely thread the 6 small black screws first.

15.2. Loosely thread the 4 large black screws.

15.3. Tighten the 6 small black screws.

15.4. Tighten the 4 large black screws.

16.Turn the instrument right side up, and reinstall the top cover.

16.1. Loosely thread the 6 small black screws.

16.2. Loosely thread the 4 large black screws.

16.3. Tighten the 6 small black screws.

16.4. Tighten the 4 large black screws.

17.Install a 50Ωterminator, or a shorting cap, onto the A input BNC.

18.Reconnect the AC power cord, turn on the instrument, and allow 60 minutes to

warm up.

19.Press the [Save Recall] button to bring up the following screen:

20.Touch the “Recall default”tile on the screen to restore default settings. Touch the

“Confirm”tile on the screen that pops up to confirm restoring default settings.

21.Press the [Couple] button to set DC coupling.

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