3. Once all rear through-hole parts have been soldered, place one of the B100k faders in a footprint on
the Panel side of the board and use a couple fingers to hold it snug against the PCB so that all pins sit as
evenly as possible in their respective through-holes. This should ensure that it is relatively straight in
relation to the panel. While holding the fader in place, flip the PCB over and use your iron to solder one
and only one leg of the fader so that it is held stationary. Leave the other pins of the fader you just
soldered for later. Repeat this process for the other three faders, making sure that you only solder one leg
on each fader, and hold it firmly in place until the solder has set.
4. Inspect the four fader potentiometers thoroughly to make sure they are all sitting flat against the PCB
and that the faders are all at nice 90-degree angles to the PCB and not crooked. If any of the fader pots
are crooked or misaligned, use a finger to gently press it into place while using your soldering iron to
reflow the one solder joint so that the fader can slot into place.
5. Once you are visually satisfied with the position of all four fader potentiometers, insert all the other
frontal hardware and the LED into the other side of the PCB, but do not solder any of these parts yet. I
find it easiest to insert them in this order: plastic-shaft potentiometers (these should snap into place), then
Thonkiconn jacks, then Switches, and finally the 8 LED’s.
-Double check all the little details: bi-color LEDs should be used in all positions marked
“BI-COLOR,” single-color LEDs should be used in all positions marked “SINGLE COLOR,” and
the flat end of all LEDs should correspond to the square pad, marked “k” for the single colors. The
four SPDT ON-ON switches should be in the positions marked “ON-ON”, while the one SPDT
ON-OFF-ON switch goes in the position marked “ON-OFF-ON.” The polarity of the switches
doesn’t matter but I like to put the “notch” side of each toggle facing downward for appearance’s
sake.
6. Place the panel over the hardware and hand-tighten the appropriate nuts over the switches and
Thonkiconn jacks so that a nice “sandwich” is formed. Be sure to hold the PCB in place with some fingers
while doing this, as the PCB can fall out and then you have to repeat step 3!
It may also be helpful to use a table vise if you have one to hold the PCB in place while soldering.
7. With the PCB facing up and panel facing down, double check that all hardware is properly seated in the
appropriate PCB holes. If it is, position each front LED so it sits as far forward as possible in the front
panel hole and solder one leg. Do this with all 8 LED’s, then flip the module over to make sure all 8 LEDs
are relatively even peeking through the panel. If they are not, reflow the one leg of the offending LED and
move it so that all LEDs sit evenly. Once you are satisfied, solder the other leg of each LED and clip off
the protruding legs.
8. Solder the rest of the frontal hardware into place except the four B10k center detent plastic
potentiometers (RV2, RV4, RV6, and RV8). Be careful to mind the tip of your soldering iron so that it does
not melt any of the through-hole trimmers or cause any shorts on the circuit board.
9. Once all other hardware is secured, solder the four plastic potentiometers using the following method:
-Solder one leg of one pot
-Check to see if the pot is mounted in such a way that it does not touch the panel when turned
-If it isn’t, use a finger to adjust the pot’s position while heating the one soldered pad
-Once the pot is not touching the panel, solder the second leg, double check and solder the pins
-Repeat for other potentiometers
