Pfaff CALANDA 132 Manuel utilisateur

(

315$

CPFAFFD

)

C-

aFardz

‘132

Dear

Housewife,

last

you

are

the

proud

owner

this

Sewing

Mochinel

The

machine

was

fully

explained

you

and

you

were

delighted

with

the

many

useful

and

wonder

ful

things

performed

this

true

wonder

gineering.

Although

everything

quite

clear

to you now,

possible

that

time

some

the

directions

given

to you

for

making

the

various adjustments

may

escape

your

memory

—

because,

unlikely

that

you

will

immediately

try

your

hand

all

the

different

kinds of

sewing

your machine

can

do.

have

therefore

prepared

this

informative

struction

book

and

hope

you

will

find

useful

guide.

Before

putting the

machine

work

vise

you

glance

briefly

the

pages

fhis

book,

that

you

will

hove

rough

idea

of the

contents.

This will

help

you

when

reverting

later

any

one

the

chapters.

good

plan

open

out

the

left

page

for

the

information

given

that

page

should

read

conjunction

with

the

directions.

The

same

applies

page

Your

attention

drawn

particularly

sections

and

After

reading

the

information

contained

those

three

chapters

you

will

thoroughly

quainted

with

the

working

of your sewing

machine;

will

become

living

thing

you,

placed

under

your

care

and protection.

The

you

understand

your

machine,

the

greater

will

be your

appreciation

its

scope

and

capacity.

The

following

accessories

are available

slight

additional

charge

box

for

housing

accessories,

No.

1466

edger

with

guide

Z—153a

Page

feller

No.

823

hemmer

No.

Z—824, 4

•

“

bobbins

No.

970

sewing machine

needles,

System

No.

130

threader,

No.

188

•

screwdriver,

No.

140

(medium

size)

screwdriver,

No.

533

(small size)

•

oil

can

(plastic),

with

oil, No.

132

quilter guide,

No.

101

quilter guide holder,

complete

with

screws,

No.

Z—1016

hemmer

827

ruffler,

No.

116

guide

535

thumb

screw,

No.

410

hemmer

No.

Z—827

mm)

Contents

Important

Hints

Choice of

Needle

Sizes

and

Thread

Numbers

Prepare

for

Sewing

Cleaning

and

Oiling

Cause

Faults

and

Simple

Home

Service

The

Electric

Motor

Presser

feet

and

their

designations

Important

Hints

Always

obtain

and

from

your

Sewing

Machine

Dealer.

Never

use just

any

kind

of lubricating

oil,

but

only

best

quality

sewing

machine

oil.

Use

only

needles

System No.

130.

Only

Sewing

Machine

Experts

should

entrusted

with

any

repairs

your

machine.

Recommended

Needle

and

Thread

Sizes

Size

Thread

System

130

Cotton

Silk

Size

Needle

Fine

Fabrics

georgette,

chiffon

botiste, voile,

80 0

lawn

and

fine

silks

000

100

twist

LighIweyhi

Fabrks

dress

silks

and

cottons,

shirtings,

sheer woolens

and

draperies

twist

Medium

Fabrics

lightweight woolens,

cretons,

heavy

silks

and

rayons,

muslin,

brocades

twist

and

gabardine

Heavy

Fabrics

coating,

denim,

corduroy,

slipcover

C&D

100

fabrics,

bed tickings

and lightweight

twist

anvos

For

darning

and embroidery

recommend

thread

No.

(for

upper

and

thread)

and needles

No.

60—70.

Standard presser

foot

Edger

with

Guide

Feller

823

Z—540

Z—153

Fabrics

Hemmer

Z—824

Hemmer

Z—827

RuttIer

116

Guide

535

you

want

to sew

very

fine

texture

materials

excep

tionally heavy-weight fabrics,

first

try

the

needle

and

thread

selected

suitable

piece

material.

For

the

under

thread

(in

the

bobbin)

preferably

employ

slightly

softer

and

thinner

thread

than

the

needle.

For

woollen

and

silk

goods

you

will

mostly

use

sewing

silk;

both

threads

should

be identical.

Quilter

guide

holder

Z—1016

with

101

Quilter

guide

101

with

Z—1016

Under

Threading

prepare

for

sewing

‘

Before

despatch

from the

works,

each

machine

subjected

severe test

run.

Therefore,

should

you

experience

any

trouble

with the

machine,

the

cause

may

well

due

wrong

manipulation.

not

interfere

with

any

settings

without

first

carefully

checking

the

upper

and

under

thread

ing,

the

tensions,

the

needle and

the position

the

feed

dog,

the

control

which

should

set

“Sewing”.

Inserting

the

Needle

Raise

the

needle

bar

its

highest

point.

With

thumb

and

forefinger

your

left

hand

insert

the

needle

into

the

clomp.

Push

the

needle

far

will

go.

side

the

needle

shank

must

the

right.

Then

tighten

the thumb screw.

Attaching

the Presser

Foot

Slide

the

foot

to the

presser

bar, right

against

the

screw

and

firmly

tighten

the

latter

with

screwdriver.

All

other

types

presser

feet

supplied

for

use

with

the

machine

ore

attached

and

secured

the

same

manner

Place

the

needle

bar

top

most

position

and

tilt

the

head

over.

With

thumb

and

fore

finger

your

left

hand,

grip

the

small

latch

bobbin

case

(Fig.

1),

lift

the

latch

and

move

the

case

with

bobbin

inside.

Release

the

latch,

turn

the

bobbin

case

upside

down,

and

let

the

bobbin

drop

into

your

other

hand.

Winding

the Bobbin

Before

winding

the

bobbin, disconnect

the sewing

mecha

nism.

Proceed

follows:

Hold

the

balance

wheel

with

your

left

hand and

loosen

the

stop

motion

screwwith

your

right

hand;

this

screw

must

be turned

outwards

far

will

(Fig.

2).

After

placing

the

reel

the

spool

pin,

draw

the

thread

once

round

tensioner

(fig.

and

bobbin

placed

the

winder

pin.

With

your

left

hand

then

wind

the

end

the

thread

few times from

front

back

round

the

bobbin,

Fig.

Figs.

1—5

Removing

the

Bobbin Case

Fig.

Upper Threading

Fig.

Place

the spool

thread

the

spool

and

bring

the

thread

below

the

guide and

to the

left,

then

from

left

right

into

the

upper

slot

guide

and

from

right

to left

through

the lower

slot.

From

there

pass

the

thread

down

and

from

right

left

through

the

slot

thread

tensioner

and take-up

spring

then

again

and

from

right

left

through

the

take-up

lever

then

down

and

through

the

guide

nee

dle

bar

and

finally

from

left

right

through

the

eye

the

needle.

Replacing

the

Bobbin

Case

With thumb

and

forefinger

your

left

hand

hold

the

bobbin

case

(complete

with

bobbin)

its

latch

(Fig.

and

slide

the case

the

small stud

the

center

the hook

(Fig.

5).

Now

press

that

the

latch

clicks

into

pa-

Fig

the

bobbin case

down

sition.

Fig.3

Now

press

the

winder

means

latch

and

turn

the

free

balance

wheel over

towards

you

set

motion

you

start

treadling.

The

winder action

stops

automatically

when

the

bobbin

fully

loaded.

Finally,

the

stop

motion screw

firmly

retightened

screwing

inwards

against

the

balance

wheel.

Threading

the

Bobbin

Case

Fig.

Hold

the

case

with

its

open

side

and

insert

the

bobbin

indicated

the

arrow,

that

the

thread

winds

from

left

right

(Fig.

4).

Pass

the

thread

through

slot

along and

underneath

the

spring

and

out

through

opening

the

side

the

bobbin case.

Fig.

Picking up

the

Lower

Thread

—

Fig.

General

Turn

the

balance

wheel

move

the

thread

take-up

lever

its

highest

point.

Place

the

material

under

the

presser

foot,

lower the

presser

bar

and

commence

sew.

When

making

the

first few

stitches, hold the

ends

bath

threads

your

hand,

that

they

not

get

sewn

down or

get

drawn

into

the

race.

Never

force

the

material

along

either

pushing

pulling

it,

but

merely

guide

the

work;

otherwise

the

needle

may

break.

best

always

make

short

practice

run

remnant

before

commencing

your

work.

When

sewing

hard

thick

pieces

material,

when

stitching

across

seams,

assist

the

needle

carefully

turning the

balance

wheel

with

your

hand.

This

practice

will

guard

against

the

needle

bending

breaking.

Before

sewing the

corner

seam,

with

hand

sewing

needle draw

thread

through

the

fabric

and

sew

along

one

edge.

the

corner

leave

the

needle

the

fabric

act

pivot,

turn

the

material and

continue

to sew

while

holding

both

ends

the tacking

thread.

This

way

you

will

prevent

stoppages

corners

which,

otherwise, easily

occur.

Setting

the

Length

Stitch

—

Fig.

The

machine

has

front,

the

stitch

regulating

lever

awith

thumb

screw

with

which

the

required

stitch

length

may

selected

the

scale

Before

you

can

make

any

adjustment

the

thumb

screw

must

turned

the

left.

The

more you

loosen

this

screw,

the

greater

the

and

down

movement

the

regulating

lever

will

be,

and

the

stitches

will

increase

decrease

accordingly.

For

verse

sewing

you

must

move

the

lever

to the

top.

[

Sewing

With

your

left

hand

hold

the

end

the

upper

thread above

the

bed-

plate,

leaving the

thread

slack.

Turn

the

balance

wheel

towards

you

allow the

needle

travel

down

and

again

its

high

est

point;

the

lower

thread

will

brought

aloop

through

the

needle

plate.

Place

the

ends

both

threads

under

the

presser

foot

the

back.

not

move

the

threaded

needle

unlessa

piece

terial

has

been

placed

beneath

it.

Fig.

—a

—b

Regulating

the

Thread

Tensions

—

Figs.

9—li

The

Upper

Thread

Tension

regulated

turning

the

setting

flange

upper

thread

tensioner

(Fig.

6).

—

Clockwise

turning

increases

the

tension;

anti-

clockwise

turning loosens

the

tension.

The

regulated

turn

ing

the

small

screw

a(Fig.

with

screwdriver.

Here

too

the

tension

increased

clockwise

adjustment and

decreased

anti-clockwise

adjustment.

generally

only

necessary

adjust

the

upper

thread

tension.

Satisfactory

stitching

possible

only

upper

and under

thread

tensions

are

correctly

set.

After

you

have

sewn

inch

or two,

inspect the

stitching

top

and

underneath.

The

tensions

are

satisfactory

both

threads

are

drawn

into

the

material

and

lock

the

center

the

work

(see

Fig.

9).

If,

however,

loops

have

formed

the

underside,

the

upper

thread

too

slack

and

must

given

tension

turning the

setting

flange

(Fig.

the

right

(Fig.

10).

loops

continue

formed

the

work,

possible

that

the

under

thread

has

been

tensioned

too

severely

and

this

must

corrected

turning

the

small

screw

(Fig.

little

the

left.

If,

the

other

hand,

the

thread

lying

fIat

(Fig.

ii),

loops

hove

formed,

the

upper

thread

may

be too

tight

and

you

must

loosen the

Regulating

the

Presser

Foot

The

presser foot

must

exert

the

material

sufficient

pressure

ensure

satisfactory

feeding

of the

material.

The

presser

bar

set

for

oIl

regular

sewing

work

light

and

medium

weight

goods.

Heavy

hard

texture

materials

require

pressure.

increase

the

pressure,

turn

the

setting screw

the

right;

decrease

the

pressure,

turn

the screw

the

left,

upwards.

Removing

the

Work

from

the

Machine

Raise

the

take-up

lever

its

highest

and

lift

the

presser

foot.

Draw

the work

the back

the

machine,

away

from the

needle.

The

ends

of the

thread

should

cut

approx.

3’

from the

needle

and

placed

under

the

foot

the

back,

thus

leaving

the

machine

ready

for

the

run.

-J

tension

turn

ing

the

flange

—

Fig.

—

the

left.

this

adjustment

does

not improve the

stitch

forming,

the

under

thread

must

then

ceive

ten

sion

turning

the

screw

—

Fig.

—

the

right.

F;g.

Fg.

Fig.

[

After

cleaning

apply

few

drops

high-grade

sewing

machine

oil

to all

working

parts.

not,

however,

apply too

much

oil;

few

drops

the

right

places

will

prove

ode

(

quote.

After

oiling

run

the

machine

rapidly

for

short

while

and

then,

before

you

start

to sew,

wipe

all

parts

]

clear

any

surplus

oil.

the machine

has

not

been

used

for

some

time,

has

been

used

continuously,

few

drops

paraffin

should

applied

all

lubrication

points

and

the

mach

ine

worked

rapidly for

minute

two.

Then

clean

the

mochine

with

soft

rag

and

oil

the mechanism.

Fig.

Machine

Head

The

following

points,

which

ore marked

thus

the

illu

with

open

stration

must

cleaned

and

oiled

proper

sequence:

Face

Cover

Plate

Regular

oiling

essential

for

the

smooth

running

the

machine.

Lint

and

thread

ends

settle

the

working

chanism

ond

eventually impede

the

free

running

the

machine.

necessary,

therefore,

give

all

parts

specified

here

after

regular,

thorough

cleaning.

Never

use

screw

driver

other

metal

instrument for

cleaning,

not even

needle,

but

only

small

pointed

stick,

that

damage

done

the

sewing mechanism.

Cleaning

and

oiling

Fig.

Machine

Head

with

removed

Arm

Cover

Plate

The

Head

(Fig.

12).

Open

the

hinged

face

cover

plate.

The Arm

(Fig.

13).

Lubricate

all

points

marked

thus

The

Needle

Plate.

Take

out

the screws

and

remove the

plate.

The

Hook

(Fig.

14).

Move

the

needle

bar

its

high

est

and

tilt

the

head

over

its

hinges.

With

small

brush

dust the

hook.

Apply

few

drops

paraffin

the

race

between

the

hook

and

the

bobbin

carrier

IV;

then

work

the

mach

ine

rapidly

for

short

while.

Now

apply

few

drops

oil.

Should

this

prove

inef

fective

dislodging

any

dirt

from

the hook,

should

thread

ends

impede

the

free

move

ment,

then

the

hook

must

carefully

dis

mantled.

This

done

removing

the

race

guide

Ill,

after

the

small

screws

and

have

been taken

out.

Now the

bobbin

carrier

can

removed.

All

dismantled parts

should

carefully

wiped

with

clean

rag.

Before

reassembling

the

parts

move

the

thread

take-up

lever

•

Fig.

its

highest

point

that

the

point

the

hook

the

left,

and

top,

shown

Fig.

14.

Then

place

the

bobbin

carrier

into

the

hook

II,

and

let

the

retaining

key

engage

into

the

groove

—

see

Fig.

14.

Finally,

replace

the

guide

Ill

and

fix

down

with

screws

and

You

must

also

lubricate

all

Fig.

other

points

indicated

the

illustrations,

making sure

that

after

oiling

oIl

ports

ore properly

replaced.

Ii’

Fig.

View

Underside

Machine

Bedplote

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