Moustache DHC-2 Beaver Manuel utilisateur
20cc DeHavilland Canada
DHC-2 Beaver
Instruction Manual
Version 1.1
©2019 Moustache Model Works, LLC 2
20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
Thank You
Thank you for purchasing the Moustache Model Works 20cc DHC-2 Beaver!
This Beaver was designed using AutoDesk Fusion360, a powerful 3D CAD program, to ensure the best
parts fit possible and therefore provide a pleasurable building experience. Drawn directly from the full-
scale blueprints, it features about a 99% scale outline. Traditional construction techniques were used to
keep the build as simple as possible, while modern laser-cut technology helps to keep everything aligned
during construction.
The design intent was to provide a Beaver with a very scale outline, but to keep assembly and setup sim-
ple, accessible, and reliable for the vast majority of pilots who will fly this as a sport scale model. To this
end, the ailerons, elevator, and rudder use simple CA hinges. The large front hatch provides excellent
access to the cockpit for quick battery swaps (electric power version) or for refueling and switch access
(gas/glow version). The wing struts connect with simple clevises.
Dimensions and Specfications
Required to Complete
Electric Power System
E-flite Power 60, 400Kv (EFLM4060A)
Prop Adapter: Power 46/52/60 (EFLM1934)
60A+ ESC, Castle Creations Talon 90 recommended (CSE010009700)
5000mAh 6S 22.2V 30C LiPo Battery
Connectors w/5mm bullets (suggest XT90 or IC5)
16 x 8E Propeller (suggest APC16080E)
1 inch Spinner Nut 8mm x 1.25mm: P-47D-1 60 (HAN279011)
Gas (Petrol) Power System
DLE-20, DLE-20RA (DLEG0020 or DLEG0420) or equivalent
Sullivan 10 oz. Slant Fuel Tank (SUL440), requires Sullivan Gasoline Conversion Kit (SUL484)
Propeller (suggest APC 16 x 6, APC16060)
Ignition battery and switch, OR Tech-Aero iBEC (http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec)
Radio Equipment
2 x Standard size servos, 75+ oz-in torque (prototypes used Spektrum A6150)
4-5 Mini servos, 60+ oz-in torque (prototypes used both Hitec HS-5245MG and Spektrum A5060)
6-channel receiver, minimum
6-channel computer transmitter with flap-elev mixing, aileron-rudder mixing, and differential aileron throw
strongly recommended
4 x 18-inch (45cm) servo extensions
1 x Y-harness
2 x 12-inch to 18-inch (30-45cm) servo extensions, depending on length of the Y-harness)
Although mini servos are recommended for the flaps, ailerons, and throttle, standard servos may be used.
Wingspan: 91.4 in (2.32m)
Length: 57.6 in (1.46m)
Height: 16 in (406mm)
Weight: 12 - 13 lb (5 - 5.7 kg)
Wing Area: 904 in2 (58.3 dm2)
Airfoil: NACA 4415
Scale: 1/6.3
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
Required to Complete (continued)
Wheels: Standard size is 3 3/4” dia (95-100mm) with 5mm axle hole
Tundra size is 4 1/2” - 5 1/2” dia (115-140mm) with 5mm axle hole
5mm Wheel Collars x 4
Battery strap, hook-and-loop (Velcro), 12”-15” long (30-38cm) (used for either battery or fuel tank)
Hook-and-Loop material for battery mounting
Sponge rubber, 1/4”-1/2” thick (6mm-13mm) for isolating fuel tank
1/8” (3mm) Black heat shrink tubing, 2” long (50mm) for door handles
Adhesives
4-6, 1-oz bottles of medium CA
1, 1-oz bottle of thin CA
1 can CA accelerator
5-15 minute epoxy
30 minute epoxy
Blue thread lock
Epoxy finishing resin (for gas or glow engines only)
Milled fiber (available from BVM, item number PA-SR-1905)
Microballoons (Top Flite TOPR1090 or Deluxe Materials DLMBD15)
Liquid cement for plastic models (TES3507AT)
4 Rolls covering material (6’ or 2m rolls)
Spray Paint (suggest Krylon primer and paint for most applications)
Craft paint for interior of fuselage,
Options
Besides the choice of power system, the Beaver offers two primary ways to customize your model. First,
you may choose either the upper carb intake or the lower carb intake (chin scoop). The chin scoop was
used on the earlier airplanes, but most Beavers we see today use the upper carb intake. Second, we
have provided both round and rectangular windows for the aft fuselage. You may choose to use one
round, one rectangular, or two rectangular windows per side, depending on the aircraft you choose to
model. If you choose a single rear window, the aft window bay is simply covered with the covering materi-
al. If you choose the rectangular window(s), the pre-cut forward window bay will need to separated from
the fuselage side to accommodate.
Building Notes
The 20cc Beaver was designed to minimize the need for plans during construction. The tail surfaces and
fuselage can be built on a flat surface, separate from the plans. The wings are built over the plans simply
to aid in placing the lower cap strips and the sheeting. NOTE: IF THE WOOD PARTS DO NOT MATCH
THE PLANS, BELIEVE THE WOOD! Paper plans can stretch and shrink considerably with humidity and
temperature variations, but wood is much more stable.
Use medium CA for most of the assembly. When gluing lite-ply parts, note that the lite-ply is VERY
THIRSTY, meaning it will suck-up and absorb a large amount of glue, especially on the edges. To ensure
the integrity of your glue joints, apply a coat of glue to the edge, wait about 30 seconds for it to soak in,
then apply more glue. Keep doing this until the medium CA stops soaking into the wood, then press the
parts together to complete the joint. Usually 2-3 coats are sufficient. For best strength, try to minimize
your use of CA accelerator.
The recommended build order is tail surfaces, wings, fuselage. It’s helpful to have the wings done when
you fit the windshield hatch in place, and it helps to have the horizontal tail done when you glue the aft fu-
selage together. There are many small details, however, especially as you’re completing final assembly,
that do not need to be completed in any particular order.
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
Building Notes (continued)
You will notice the manual shows several lightening holes in the flaps, ailerons, elevator, rudder, and fuse-
lage top. These were tried in the second prototype, which was used for creating this manual. After com-
pletion, we decided the weight savings was not enough to warrant the potential reduction in scale appear-
ance, so they were removed for production.
Floats are probably the most important option for any DHC-2 Beaver. As of this writing (January 2019),
the floats for this airplane have not been developed, but the float mounts have been incorporated into the
build. These mounts are not accessible after the airplane is built, so make sure you install them during
construction if you have any interest in installing floats once they are available.
Several exterior parts will require painting: the cowl, windshield hatch, optional upper carb intake, oil cool-
er, landing gear fairings, and possibly the tail cone and rudder fairing. If using a gas (petrol) or electric
power system, we have found Krylon brand spray paints to be easy to use and quite durable. If you need
a specific paint match and have spray equipment available, common latex paint from the local big-box
home improvement store works well, is available in sample sizes, and can be matched to any covering
you bring to the store. In this case, it’s good to use a clear coat, again such as Krylon, although we’ve had
mixed results spraying Krylon (which is acrylic) over latex. If you’re using a glow engine, Wings West
makes some fantastic paint that perfectly matches both MonoKote and Ultracote, but it requires clear coat
to be fuel proof.
If using a gasoline engine, the electrical power system can be simplified by using an ignition battery elimi-
nator circuit or iBEC. This simple component enables a single battery to power both the radio system and
the ignition, while also providing a transmitter-switched ignition kill. If HV-capable servos are used, a sin-
gle 2S Li-Po battery can provide all the power required, thus saving weight and complexity.
Due to variations in hardware, it’s possible that the included blind nuts may not fit perfectly into the laser-
cut holes of some wooden parts. If this happens, simply drill out the holes to fit.
Recommended Tools
FLAT building surface, T-pins
Sanding block(s) - next to a flat surface, probably the most important tool in the shop. We use a piece of
1/2” - 3/4” plywood cut to 3” x 11” to accept 1/3 of a sheet of sandpaper. Use a good-quality ceramic abra-
sive and apply 120 grit on one side and 80 grit on the other using contact cement like 3M77.
Hobby knife with No. 11 blades (buy in bulk, part number EXL22611A)
Rotary tool (Dremel) with sanding drum, cutoff wheel
Electric drill and drill bits
Allen wrenches, both SAE and metric
Slotted and Philips screwdriver sets, several sizes
Pliers, regular and needle-nose
Adjustable wrench
Razor plane or buck knife
Steel rule
Wax paper
Fine-point permanent marker
Soldering iron/gun (for soldering connectors if using an electric power system)
4 1/2” Tapered palette knife (recommended for mixing and applying epoxy)
Limit of Liability
Responsibility for safe assembly and operation of this kit depends entirely upon the builder and operator. As Mous-
tache Model Works, LLC has no control over the assembly, setup, modification, use, or misuse of this product, no
liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any resulting damage or injury caused by its use or misuse.
©2019 Moustache Model Works, LLC 5
20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
1. Remove all the horizontal tail parts from
the laser-cut sheets
a. Ribs, Sub-LE from 2.5mm sheet balsa
b. Spar/TE and Spar Doubler from 6mm
sheet balsa
c. HS-8 doublers from 3mm lite ply
2. Glue the Spar Doubler to the Spar/TE.
Center the doubler vertically so there is
equal overhang top & bottom.
3. Glue HS-1A and HS-3 through HS-8 to
the Spar/TE. Use a scrap piece of lite-ply
with a 90° corner to ensure the ribs are
perpendicular to the Spar/TE. Do not glue
HS-2a to the Spar Doubler at this time.
4. Assemble both HS-2as onto the stab, as
well as HS-9 and both Sub LEs
9. Glue the bottom skins in place using
medium CA. Laser-etched lettering
inside!
5. With the Spar/TE on the work bench
and the ribs facing up, look down on the
stab and check for any twist. If the stab
is twisted, hold a corrective twist in
place while gluing each HS-2a to the
Stab Doubler.
6. Glue the remaining glue joints between
the ribs and the Sub LEs, and HS-9
10. Glue in the hinge reinforcement
blocks, as well as the HS-8 Doublers
(3mm lite-ply).
11. Glue the top skins in place using medi-
um CA. Laser-etched lettering inside!
7. Using a sanding block, gently sand a
bevel in the Spar/TE and the Sub LE to
match the airfoil.
8. Remove the H-Stab Skins from the
laser-cut sheets, including the little trian-
gles; glue the little triangles in place on
the leading edges of the H-Stab Skins.
Horizontal Stabilizer and
Elevator
Note that the included hardware is
separated into different bags for
each section of the build.
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
13. Cut two 12 1/8” lengths from the 6mm
x 10mm balsa stick
14. Glue in place on the leading edges
15. Carve & sand to airfoil shape
16. Glue the spacers in place against both
HS-2as
20. Glue E-8 and E-7 onto the Stab Tip
Cores
17. Remove all the elevator parts from the
laser-cut sheets
a. Ribs from 2.5mm sheet balsa sheet
10/10
b. LE, joiner supports and hinge sup-
ports from 6mm balsa sheet
c. Stab Tip Cores and the E-8s from
the 1mm ply sheet
21. Remove the Elevator Skins from the
1.5mm sheet balsa
22. Glue the LE/rib assemblies to the bot-
tom Elevator Skins. Make sure the
laser etching on the skins is on the
inside surface. Use the stab tip as-
semblies to aid positioning.
18. Glue the ribs E-1 through E-6 to the
leading edges. Take care to center the
ribs vertically on the LE. As you did on
the horizontal stabilizer, use a scrap
piece of lite-ply with a 90 degree corner
to ensure the ribs are perpendicular to
the LE.
12. Trim & sand the sheeting flush with the
Sub-LE and all around the perimeter.
19. Using a sanding block, lightly sand the
top and bottom of the LE to match the
taper of the ribs
23. Place the elevator on the edge of your
work bench. Using a sanding block,
sand a bevel on the inside surface of
the bottom Elevator Skins to match the
ribs. The trailing edge of the sheeting
needs to be about ½ the thickness of
the sheeting or 1/32” at the trailing
edge.
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
26. Glue on the top Elevator Skins.
27. Glue the upper & lower tip blocks, then
carve & sand to shape.
27. Sanding to shape. Use some masking
tape to avoid sanding into the elevator
sheeting while using coarse sandpa-
per at first.
32. Glue the elevator joiner in place using
epoxy on the mounting tab. Take care
not to get glue on the wire.
33. Glue the beavertail in place over the
joiner. Take care not to get glue on the
wire.
28. Glue both HS-2b and HS-1b to the low-
er beavertail skin.
34. On the leading edge of the elevators,
mark and drill the location of the eleva-
tor joiner. To do this, hold the eleva-
tors in place against the horizontal
stabilizer and use a piece of scrap
2.5mm balsa as a spacer between the
tip of the stabilizer and the inside edge
of the elevator counter-balance. Mark
the location, then drill in straight with a
1/8” bit.
29. Cut a relief groove in the trailing edge of
the horizontal stab to provide clearance
for the elevator control horn. Also cut a
bevel in the slot for the joiner mounting
tab so it seats up against the trailing
edge.
24. Glue in the elevator joiner supports
and the hinge supports.
25. Glue in the tip assemblies.
30. Bevel the trailing edge of the lower bea-
vertail skin as you did with the eleva-
tors.
31. Glue the upper beavertail skin in place.
35. Using a hobby knife, cut a notch from
that hole to the inboard end of the
elevator. Cut a radius in that notch to
accommodate the radius in the bend
of the elevator joiner.
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
37. Mark a line down the center of the
elevator leading edges. This is easier
with a simple hinge marking tool like
the Great Planes GPMR4005.
38. Mark the hinge locations and cut the
hinge slots using a hobby knife or a
hinge slotting tool.
39. Mark the angle of the leading edge
bevel on the ends of the elevators, and
on the upper and lower elevator skins
if you like.
40. Using those marks as guides, carve
and sand the bevel in the leading edg-
es of the elevators.
41. Cover the stab and elevators with your
favorite iron-on film covering. Leave the
bottom side of the stab center section
uncovered for gluing into place on the
fuselage.
42. Trim away the covering from the eleva-
tors at the elevator joiner.
1. Remove the vertical stabilizer and
dorsal fin parts from the laser cut
sheets
a. VS-1 through VS-7, D-1, -2, and -3
from 2.5mm balsa sheets 9 & 10
b. Trailing edge, hinge supports and
rudder blocks from 6mm balsa
c. Dorsal spine and rudder tip from
1mm ply
43. Hinge the elevators to the stab using
the supplied CA hinges. Glue into the
elevators first, then use epoxy to glue to
the elevator joiner. Be sure to keep the
elevators aligned, and use a wax paper
barrier to prevent gluing the elevator
joiner to the stab. Finally, glue the CA
hinges into the stab.
36. Check the alignment of the elevators
to each other on the elevator joiner.
Adjust the hole you just drilled on one
side only to bring the elevators into
alignment.
2. Glue VS-2 through VS-6 to the trailing
edge using the 90° guide used on the
horizontal stab & elevators. Note the
longer tabs insert into the trailing edge.
Vertical Stabilizer and
Rudder
No Photo
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
4. Glue D-3, D-2, and VS-7 to VS-1 also
using the 90° guide.
5. Glue the two assemblies together.
13. Fit the 1mm ply Dorsal Spine in place
and mark the thickness of D-1 along
the edge on both sides.
8. Glue the hinge supports in place.
3. Glue VS-8 to VS-4, -5, and -6
14. Using that mark as a guide, glue the
Dorsal Spine LE 1 pieces (1.5mm
balsa, sheet 1) to the Dorsal Spine on
both sides.
6. Sand off the tip of the VS-8 tab that
protrudes through VS-7
7. Glue D-1 in place.
9. Remove the vertical stab skins from the
1.5mm laser cut sheets.
10. Glue the skin parts together matching
the edges that have the edges labeled
for right and left skins.
11. Lightly block sand the framework
smooth to prepare for installing the
skins (sheeting).
12. Glue on the left and right skins.
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20cc DHC-2 Beaver Instruction Manual
16. Glue the Dorsal Spine in place.
22. Sand leading edge and Dorsal Spine
LE pieces to shape. Refer to the plans
to aid in achieving the right profile.
Any gaps can be filled with filler before
covering.
19. Trim and/or sand off the tab from VS-5
that pokes through VS-8.
23. Remove the rudder parts from the
laser-cut sheets
a. Leading Edge, 2nd Leading Edge
and rudder blocks from 6mm balsa
b. R-1 – R-6 from 2.5mm balsa
c. Tip core and rib from 1mm ply
17. Remove the Dorsal Skins from the
1.5mm laser-cut sheets and assemble
the same way as the vertical stab
skins, matching the edges with text
labels for both left and right skins.
18. Glue the Dorsal Skins in place.
20. Sand the ends of the Vertical Stab lead-
ing edge to fit between the tabs on VS-6
and VS-7. NOTE: the tabs on VS-6
and VS-7 are used to serve as guides
when sanding the leading edge to
shape.
21. Once satisfied with the fit, glue the
leading edge in place.
15. Glue the Dorsal Spine LE 2 pieces in
place. Note that LE 2 extends past the
end of LE 1, flush with the end of the
Dorsal Spine.
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Table des matières
