Mountain Models Switchback Sport Manuel utilisateur

Switchback Sport

Builder’s Manual

Thank you for purchasing the Switchback Sport. The Switchback Sport has been designed for the novice

to intermediate pilot who wants a plane with good performance that will fly in a limited space. The

Switchback Sport can also accept the Switchback 3D wing, turning it into a highly aerobatic airplane.

January 31, 2002

Last revised March 24, 2003

www.mountainmodels.com

(719) 592-1387

[email protected]

Required Equipment

! Xacto with #11 blades

! Thin and Thick CA – Cyanoacrylate glue (Super Glue)

! 5 minute epoxy

! Sanding block with 200 grit sandpaper

! Smooth, flat work table

! Wax paper to protect plans while gluing

! Needle nose pliers

! Wire cutters

! Hobby Iron for applying covering – also called a sealing iron

! Four channel radio

! Three micro servos: Hitec HS55s or GWS Picos recommended

! GWS EPS 100 A motor with 10x8 propeller. For higher performance, the EPS 300 C or EPS 370

C can be used with a 10x8 propeller.

! Electronic Speed Control (ESC) capable of handling at least 5 amps (10-15 amps for the EPS300).

! Battery pack: 8 cell 300 or 720mAH Nickel Metal Hydride recommended for the EPS 100 motor.

8 cell 720mAH NiMH or 600AE Nicad for EPS 300.

Parts List

2 ea – 3/32” laser cut balsa sheet

2 ea – 1/32” laser cut balsa sheet

2 ea – 1/16” laser cut balsa sheet

1 ea – 1/8” laser cut balsa sheet

1 ea – 1/16” laser cut plywood sheet

1 ea – 1/32” laser cut plywood sheet

1 ea – 1/64” plywood center wing cover sheet

1 ea – 1/8"round x 19” hard wood leading edge

1 ea – 1/8"round x 17” hard wood leading edge

1 ea – 3/32” x 13.5” landing gear wire

4 ea – 1/32” x 18” thin music wire for tailskid and pushrods

1 ea – Plastic Canopy

1 ea - Covering

Bagged Parts:

1 ea – 6” x 3/32” Heat shrink tubing for pushrods

1 ea – 1/2” x 1/8”Heat shrink tubing for wheel retainers

1 ea – 6” Velcro strip for mounting the battery and receiver

1 ea – 2 Tires

1 ea – Motor Mount 1/16” ply sheet

3 ea – 1/8"round x 2.75” hard wood dowel

1 ea – Canopy magnet and tack

1 ea - Tyvek for Canopy Hinges and tail wheel reinforcement.

1 ea – Tail Wheel Rubber

1 ea – 4-40 screw and blind nut for landing gear

Specifications

Wingspan: 35”

Wing Area: 300 sq. in.

Weight: 8 ounces without battery

Wing Loading: 5-6 oz/sq. ft. depending on battery

Switchback Assembly

Stabilizers, Rudder, Elevator, and Aileron Assembly

The tail assemblies and ailerons are made up from the 3/32” and 1/8” laser cut sheet. Lay the plans out on

a flat worktable and tape them down, and then lay a sheet of wax paper over the plans. This will protect

the plans from the glue. The pieces of balsa are positioned over the plans and glued together. Each joint

can be glued by holding the two pieces in place and applying a drop of thin CA to the joint. In the past,

you may have used pins to hold parts down, but I find this process to be faster and you don’t have to

worry about the pin damaging the balsa. You do have to worry about keeping your fingers far enough

away from the joints or your fingers will become part of the model. Build one part at a time, removing

only that part from the balsa sheet so that you don’t mix the parts up.

Note that the torque rod attaching the two elevator halves is one of the 1/8” x 2.75” hardwood dowels. It

should be glued with thick CA. Give it plenty of time to dry.

Once the parts are dry, carefully remove them from the wax paper then sand them. Round all the edges

EXCEPT the bottom of the vertical stabilizer where it will be glued to the fuselage. Also, the rear of the

stabilizers, the front of the elevator, the front of the rudder, and the front of the ailerons need to have a 40

degree bevel sanded in to them. How you sand the bevel in the ailerons determines whether the aileron

will be for the right or left side. Make sure you make one left and one right.

! Shape the tail wheel wire as shown in the picture. The first bend will create the axle. The second

bend will go over the edge of the wheel, with the third bend running parallel with the wire

between the first and second bends.

! Measure 5/8" from the bottom edge of the rudder and drill a 1/32” hole in the center of the leading

edge. Gently push the tail wheel wire into the hole. Glue a piece of Tyvek material around the

tail wheel wire where it enters the leading edge of the rudder.

Wing Assembly

! Tape a sheet of wax paper over the plans to protect the plans and to prevent glue from sticking to

them.

! Remove the two vertical spars from the 1/16” balsa sheet. You will note that they fit together with

a V joint to form the center wing. Be very careful to make a left and a right wing. It doesn’t

matter which vertical spar forms the left or right side.

! Slide the ribs into the vertical spars. The 3/32” rib goes in the innermost position. Do not glue yet.

! Position the lower spar caps (the narrower ones) so that they line up with the notches in the ribs.

Ensure that the end of the bottom spar with the arrow shape is towards the center of the wing, that

everything is tight, that the ribs fit fully into the lower spar and that the vertical spar is touching

the lower spar. Once everything is aligned, flow some thin CA into all the joints.

! Position the top spar caps over the ribs. Position as before and glue with thin CA.

! Position the 1/8” trailing edge so that it is flush with the bottom of the ribs and that it is pushed as

far forward as possible. The end that is shaped like an arrow goes towards the center of the wing.

Glue with thin CA.

! Measure and cut the 1/8” hardwood leading edge dowel so that it is flush with the outer edge of

the outermost rib and only goes halfway through the innermost rib. We only go halfway through

the innermost rib to leave room for the short center leading edge dowel. Glue in place with thin

CA.

! Glue the wingtips as shown in the photos. It is easiest to glue from the spar to the trailing edge

then, once the glue has set, raise the leading edge of the wingtip towards the leading edge dowel

and glue in place.

! We will now glue the two wing halves together. Start by placing the 3/32”x 1.9” x .6” rectangle

with the tab on either end in the slots in the center ribs. Now join the two vertical spars together

and glue with thin CA.

! Glue the top and bottom center spar in place. Make sure you have a good joint and that the top

and bottom spars are well glued to the vertical spars.

! Glue the center trailing in place.

! Cut and glue the center 1/8” hardwood dowel leading edge.

! Glue the smaller 1/64” plywood sheet to the top of the center wing such that it is 1/16” behind the

front of the top spar. The hole should be closer to the front. Take special care to ensure that the

plywood is well bonded to the top spar, especially at the edges of the plywood where it is

outside the center ribs.

! Glue the two 1/16” plywood servo reinforcements to the 1/64” plywood sheet as shown. Take

care to not fill the holes with glue.

! Glue this 1/64” plywood sheet to the bottom of the center wing such that it is flush with the back

of the trailing edge and centered. The opening should be towards the front. Take special care to

ensure that the plywood is well bonded to the bottom spar, especially at the edges of the

plywood where it is outside the center ribs.

! Glue four 3/32” balsa braces to the leading edge dowel and the center ribs as shown.

! Glue two 3/32” balsa braces to each of the outer ribs as shown.

! Verify that the top and bottom spars are glued to the vertical spar completely and that there are no

gaps in the glue joints.

! Lightly sand the wing to remove any bumps and glue

Covering the Wing and Tail

The Switchback kit comes with a clear, paintable covering called Doculam which is actually a

laminating film. The frosted side has a heat activated adhesive. Unlike most coverings, Doculam

does not have a backing sheet. Compared to SoLite (Solarfilm Lite – another excellent choice for the

Switchback), Doculam is stronger, heavier, and needs a higher temperature to adhere and to shrink. It

should also be painted which will add weight. We will cover one half of the wing at a time.

! Lay the wing on the table and cut a piece of covering so that it starts at the inner rib of the opposite

wing and overlaps the wingtip and the leading and trailing edges by ~2”. The first piece will

cover the center wing.

! Tack one corner of the trailing edge then the other corner of the trailing edge with a covering iron,

ensuring that the covering is tight.

! Pull the covering tight and straight then tack the two corners of the leading edge.

! Tack down the entire leading and trailing edge. Wrap the covering around the back of the trailing

edge and tack it down across the back of the trailing edge.

! Pull the covering tight across the high point of the wingtip and tack.

! Here’s the fun part: work the covering around the curve of the wingtip so that the wrinkles are

evenly distributed. This will make shrinking the wrinkles out easier.

! Tack down the covering to the inner rib.

! Trim the covering so that there is a 1/8”- 1/4” overlap around the inner rib. Tack down the overlap

to prevent the covering from pulling away when you shrink it.

! Cover the other side. This side does not need to cover the center wing but should overlap the

other sides covering by at least ¼” to ensure a good bond.

! Once both sides of the wing are covered, shrink the covering with a covering iron or heat gun. If

you are using the supplied clear covering, you will need a fair amount of heat to shrink the

covering but too much heat will result in a hole.

! Tack the covering down around the servo hole then cut the hole out with a sharp Xacto.

! You can paint the supplied Doculam covering with Testors Pactra Racing Finish car body paint,

which has been specifically designed for lexan car bodies. Krylon spray paint will also work.

! Cover the tail surfaces and ailerons in the same manner you did with the wings.

! Apply the hinges to the control surfaces. I have had excellent results using packing tape sliced

down to ¾” as a hinge. Ensure the control surfaces move freely. Don’t hinge the rudder to the

vertical stab yet. We will do that when we install the tail wheel.

View of the top of the rudder

! Cut covering from the slots for the control horns and glue the control horn in place with thin CA.

The rudder horn will be placed on the opposite side as the elevator horn.

Fuselage Assembly

B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 B9

! Position the bulkheads B7, B8, and B9 in the 1/32” rear bottom fuselage. Ensure they are seated

fully and squarely. Glue with thin CA.

! Glue the 3/32” balsa blind nut support to B4 so that the holes are centered. Press the blind nut into

place.

! Position bulkheads B2-B6 in the 1/16” front bottom fuselage. The blind nut and support are on

the front of B4 facing forward. You will insert the landing gear bolt from the wing opening.

Glue with thin CA.

! Position the two bottom side stringers. Glue in place. Carefully align the very backs and glue

together with thin CA.

! Position and glue the top two stringers. Glue the servo mount supports between the top and

bottom stringers.

! Position and glue B1.

! Glue the motor mount parts together ensuring they are square and tight. Position the motor mount

into B2 and B3 so that it is flush with the back of B3. Glue with thick CA.

! Position the 1/32” balsa fuselage sides. They will line up with the bulkhead tabs and with the

bottom of the last part of the rear stringers. The sides will extend slightly above the upper

stringers. Glue with thin CA. NOTE: Do not glue the left side to the top stringer between B6

and B7. You will later glue canopy hinges there.

! Position the servo mount in the fuselage and glue with thick CA.

! Cut two 1/32” music wire pushrods to 15” and bend a Z bend in one end of each. Slide the

pushrods through the rear bulkheads B7-B9. B7 has two 3/32” holes for the pushrods. B8 and B9

have 1/32” holes for the pushrods. Bring the pushrods out the fuselage sides through the provided

slots.

! Position the 1/8” square balsa stringer on the top of bulkheads B7-B9. Glue with thin CA.

! Glue the two 1/32” balsa rear fuselage tops in place. They should be lined up with the front of the

1/8” square.

! Glue the 1/32” balsa front fuselage in place.

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