Mod Wave Manuel utilisateur

Use these instructions to learn:

How to build a stand-alone tube reverb unit.

How to prepare shielded wire.

How to make vintage style RCA cables.

The Wave is a versatile stand-alone, tube driven spring reverb unit. It can be used in front of your guitar amp

or as a line-level, analog reverb effect for the recording studio. Two controls allow you to serve up a wide

range of wetness, from just a touch to over the top psychedelia. The "dwell" control adjusts the input signal

level driving the tank and the "reverb" control adjusts the level of output reverberations from the tank.

The Wave (K-MOD103)

www.modkitsdiy.com

Features

Rack Mountable - requires 3U of rack space

Line Level RCA connections - (1) Phono In and (2) paralleled Phono Outs

Footswitch Jack - cuts signal to the reverb tank input only, allowing the last reverberations to decay fully.

(Use a standard one button latching footswitch box with a mono ¼" plug).

Reverb Switch - provides an instantaneous cut of the reverb signal before and after the tank.

INOUT

POWER

OFF

DWELL REVERB REVERB

SWITCH

GUITAR

OUT

GUITAR

Rear Panel

FAST BLO

120VAC

PHONO

OUT (1)

PHONO

OUT (2) FOOT

SWITCH

Please note, there are no labels for this kit. The controls, switches and connectors have

only been labeled on this drawing to indicate their function.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Safety ……..………..........................................................................................................................................3

Soldering Tips…..………....................................................................................................................................4

Wiring Tips …...……........................................................................................................................................5

Hardware Fastening Tip……………................................................................................................................ 6

Step by Step Assembly

Section 1 – Mounting of Top Components

Section 2 – Mounting of Rear Components

…….............................................................................6

…….............................................................................9

Section 3 – Mounting of Front Components ……...........................................................................10

Section 4 – Making Wire Connections …..……...........................................................................11

Section 5 – Mounting Electronic Components ...........................................................................16

Section 6 – Assemble and Fasten the Cover Plate ......................................................................18

Section 7 – Make and Connect the RCA Cables .........................................................................19

Section 8 – Finishing Up …………………….............................................................................20

Step 1 – File the chassis holes (p. 6)

Step 2 – Mount the rubber grommets (p. 7)

Step 3 – Mount the 9 pin miniature tube sockets and shields (p. 7)

Step 4 – Mount the tank in & out phono jacks (p. 8)

Step 5 – Mount the output transformer “TR2" (p. 8)

Step 6 – Mount the power transformer “TR1” (p. 8)

Step 7 – Mount the terminal strips (p. 8)

Step 8 – Mount the remaining top surface locking lugs (p. 8)

Step 9 – Mount the reverb tank (p. 9)

Step 1 – Mount the power cord receptacle (p. 9)

Step 2 – Mount the fuse holder (p. 9)

Step 3 – Mount the phono in and out jacks (p. 9)

Step 4 – Mount the footswitch jack (p. 10)

Step 1 – Mount the lamp holder (p. 10)

Step 2 – Mount the power switch (p. 10)

Step 3 – Mount the output jack (p. 10)

Step 4 – Mount the reverb on/off switch (p. 10)

Step 5 – Mount the 500K reverb and 10K dwell pots (p. 10)

Step 6 – Mount the input jack (p. 10)

Step 1 – Connect the output transformer (TR2) wires (p. 11)

Step 2 – Connect the power transformer (TR1) wires (p. 11)

Step 3 – Connect the power switch (p. 11)

Step 4 – Connect the power cord receptacle (p. 11)

Step 5 – Connect the filaments (p. 12)

Step 6 – Connect the power supply wires (p. 12)

Step 7 – Connect the reverb driver wires and components (p. 13)

Step 8 – Wire the phono jacks (p. 13)

Step 9 – Wire the front panel components (p. 14)

Step 10 – Prepare and connect the shielded wires (p. 14)

Step 11 – Connect the remaining tube socket wires (p. 16)

Step 1 – Connect the diodes (p. 16)

Step 2 – Connect the filter caps and resistors (p. 17)

Step 3 – Connect the “phono in” components (p. 17)

Step 4 – Connect the V1 components (p. 17)

Step 5 – Connect the V3 components (p. 17)

Step 6 – Connect the V4 components (p. 18)

Step 1 – Mount the rubber feet (p. 18) Step 2 – Mount the cover plate (p. 18)

Step 1 – Make the 12" output cable (p. 19) Step 2 – Make the 14 ½” input cable (p. 19)

Step 3 – Connect the cables to their respective phono jacks (p. 20)

ASSEMBLY DRAWINGS

PARTS LIST DRAWINGS & Tool List

…….…………………………….separate document (7 drawings)

…...….separate document (3 pages, Tool List on p. 3)

DANGER

HIGH VOLTAGE

MAY BE PRESENT

ON FILTER CAPACITORS

DO NOT TOUCH!

SAFETY

Tube amps operate at high voltages that have the potential to injure and kill. Please remember the following

when working on this project.

Only work on tube amps when you are wide awake and sober.

Do not plug the amp in until you have gone through all of the instructions, checking and re-checking

each step.

Be aware that tubes become very hot when the amp is on and can take several minutes to cool down

after power is turned off.

Work in a ventilated area when soldering.

Always follow the one hand rule when working with an amp that is connected to power or may have

voltage present. (Any amp that has been plugged in at one time, may have high voltage present).

The one hand rule (pictured below): is a safety precaution for working on an amp that is

plugged in or could potentially have high voltages present. Using alligator clips with your

DMM, clip the ground side to the chassis and use the other side to probe at various test points

with one hand. This prevents a fatal shock which can result from current passing through the

heart. (Many people even put their other hand in their pocket or behind their back).

Always probe a tube amp for dangerous voltages present on the filter

capacitors before working on it, even if it has been turned off and

unplugged for months. 22µF 450V

Filter Cap

Positive (+) end

SOLDERING TIPS

1. Bend the component lead

and wrap it around the

connection point.

2. Wrap the component lead

so that it can hold itself to the

connection point.

3. Heat up both component

lead and connection point with

the soldering iron.

4. Apply solder to both

component lead and

connection point.

2. Apply fresh solder to mix in

with old solder joint

1. Heat up old solder joint

with the soldering iron.

3. Use a de-soldering tool to

remove the old solder joint

while it is heated.

De-Soldering Tip

It is important to make a good solder joint at each connection point. A cold solder joint is a connection that

may look connected but is actually disconnected or intermittently connected. (A cold solder joint can keep

your project from working.)

Follow these tips to make a good solder joint. Take your time with each connection and make sure that all

components are connected and will remain connected if your project is bumped or shaken.

Bend the component lead or wire ending and wrap it around the connection point.

Make sure it is not too close to a neighboring component which could cause an

unintended connection.

2. Wrap the component lead so that it can hold itself to the connection point.

Touch the soldering iron to both the component lead and the connection point allowing both to

warm up just before applying the solder to them.

Be sure to adequately cover both component lead and connection point with melted solder.

Remove the soldering iron from your work and allow the solder joint to cool. (The

solder joint should be shiny and smooth after solidifying.)

Cut off any excess wire or component leads with cutting pliers.

Clean the soldering iron's tip by wiping it across the wet sponge again after making the

solder joint.

WIRING TIPS

There are 4 different types of wire included with this kit. It's important to use the correct wire type at the right

place in the instructions since each type serves a specific function.

Because of the electro-magnetic

properties of current traveling through a wire,

there are a few conventions used when making

wire connections.

A) Twist the wires together where indicated in

the instructions.

B) If two wire paths intersect, try to have them

cross over each other as perpendicular as

possible. (You should follow the path of the

wires shown in the instructions).

Be careful not to strip away strands of wire when you remove the insulation from the wire ends.

Be careful not to burn the insulation of nearby wires with the soldering iron.

20AWG

22AWG

A) Twisted Wires

B) Perpendicular

Intersection

green 20 AWG solid core cloth-covered wire

blue 22 AWG stranded hook-up wire

Green wire is commonly used for filament wire in tube amps. 20 AWG wire is rated for 3.7A of current and that's plenty for the

filament connections in this kit. Solid core wire has been selected to make it easier when making connections to the tube socket pins.

(You do not need to tin the ends of solid-core wire before connecting).

Stripping wire, tinning wire and soldering. Throughout these instructions you will be told to strip and tin

numerous lengths of wire. Unless noted otherwise, cut the wire to the length stated in the instructions. Then

strip ¼” of insulation off each end. Twist each end of the stranded wire, and apply a small amount of solder to

each end (i.e. tin the wire ends). This will prevent the stranded wire from fraying and will make the final

soldering much easier.

The blue stranded wire will be used for most of the circuit connections. Stranded wire was chosen because it's not as likely as solid

core wire to break off at the ends. Your connections will be substantially improved if you take the time to tin the stranded wire ends

before making connections.

tin braid 22 AWG stranded wire

This type of shielded wire will be used for making customized RCA cables for connecting to the spring reverb tank and fit the layout

of the kit perfectly. These instructions will walk you through the process.

shielded 26 AWG stranded wire

This type of shielded wire will be used for shielding the guitar signal at sensitive areas in the layout. These instructions will walk

you through the process.

STEP BY STEP ASSEMBLY

Please refer to the assembly drawings indicated for each section.

HARDWARE FASTENING TIP

When fastening components with mounting hardware (screws, lock washers, and hex nuts), the lock washer

and hex nut should be fastened on the other side of the chassis from the head of the screw as shown in the

drawing below.

SECTION 1 – Mounting of Top Components

Please refer to assembly Drawings 1 – 3.

(The chassis provides the ground connection for many

components so it is important that the inner edges of these

holes are not insulated by the paint coating).

With the terminal strips used in this kit, you might want to connect the wires to the lower holes and

components to the upper holes. (Doing this can make it easier to change components for modification).

5W 1K

Wires connected to lower terminal holes.

Components connected to upper terminal

holes.

Step 1 – File the chassis holes

Except for the holes circled in the drawings on this page

and the next, use a miniature round file to remove the

paint coating from the inside edges of each chassis hole.

Top of

Chassis

Rear Panel

Front Panel

It’s not necessary to file away the paint from the holes

on the cover plate.

Do not file away the paint

from the holes circled here.

(inside)

Chassis

Screw Head

Lock Washer

Hex Nut

Component

Mounting

Bracket

(outside)

Rear Panel

Front Panel

Do not file away the paint from the holes circled here.

After filing away the paint from each hole, you might want to check for electrical continuity between one hole

and all of the rest using a multi-meter to make sure that you didn’t miss anything and that the paint was filed

away sufficiently.

Step 2 – Mount the rubber grommets

Drawing 1 shows where to mount the three rubber grommets. Squeeze the grommet

into the hole and push it into place with your fingers.

(3)

(4) (8)

(5)

(8)

Step 3 – Mount the 9 pin miniature tube sockets and shields

Drawings 2 & 3 show where to mount the four 9 pin miniature

sockets. Make sure that pins 1 & 9 are away from the rear edge

of the chassis. (Except for the locking lugs, use #4 hardware).

(3)

(1)

P-0401H

(4)

Shield bases are mounted on top of

the tube sockets before inserting the

#4 mounting screws through the top

of the chassis.

Tube Socket Name Rear Hole Front Hole

Lock washer Locking lug

Lock washer

Locking lug

P-0401H & Lock washer

V1V2V3V4

See Drawing 3 (Inside Chassis View)

Rear Hole

Front Hole

Step 4 – Mount the tank in & out phono jacks

Drawings 2 & 3 show where to mount these two phono jacks.

Phono Jack Sleeve

Terminal

Solder Lug Washer

Nut

Flat Washer

Place the solder lug washer over the phono jack before inserting

the jack through the 3/8" hole from the inside of the chassis.

Place the flat washer over the phono jack on the outside of the chassis and fasten the nut while making

sure the sleeve terminals of both solder lug washers are pointing toward the TR1 side of the chassis as

shown in Drawing 3.

(2)

Put a slight bend in the solder lug washer before

mounting the phono jack so that the sleeve terminal

will not be flat against the chassis surface.

Step 5 – Mount the output transformer “TR2”

Drawing 2 shows where to mount the output transformer. Insert each

of the four wires through Grommet 1 and use #8 hardware to fasten

the transformer to the chassis.

P-TF22921

(2)

Step 6 – Mount the power transformer “TR1”

Drawing 2 shows where to mount the power transformer.

Insert each of the six wires through their respective

grommets as listed on Drawing 2. Use #10 hardware to

fasten the transformer to the chassis. Make sure to use the

½” long #10 screws.

P-TF47609

½" length

(2)

Step 7 – Mount the terminal strips

There should be nine terminal strips remaining. Drawing 3 shows where to mount each one. Be sure to mount

them with the same orientation as shown in the drawing. Use #6 hardware.

(10) (10)(10)

Step 8 – Mount the remaining top surface locking lugs

Drawing 3 shows where to mount each of three more locking lugs. Be sure to mount them with the same

orientation as shown in the drawing. Use #6 hardware.

Terminal Strip Naming Convention

Each terminal strip has been assigned a name T1

through T10. The terminals are numbered from left

to right as seen with mounting bracket directed

toward the viewer. T6(3) will be the notation used

for referring to terminal number 3 on T6.

123

T1(2)

Mounting bracket

direction.

1 2 3 4 5 6

T6(3)

Mounting bracket

direction.

(3) (3) (3)

At this point, the only open holes on the top surface of the chassis should be the four holes for mounting the

reverb tank.

Step 9 – Mount the reverb tank

Drawing 3 shows the four mounting holes for the reverb tank. The tank should be mounted on the outside of

the chassis with its input and output connectors facing the front panel of the chassis. Use #10 hardware. Make

sure to use the ½” long #10 screws.

½" length

(4)

Remove the four grommets and sleeved washers from

the reverb tank. They will not be useful for mechanical

isolation in this application. Grommet Sleeved Washer

Remove all foam pieces from the inside of the reverb tank.

The screw heads and flat washers go on the outside of the chassis, on top of the

reverb tank’s mounting flange. The lock washers and hex nuts should be

fastened on the inside of the chassis.

(inside)

Chassis

Screw Head

Lock Washer

Hex Nut

(outside)

Flat Washer

Mounting Flange

At this point, all of the top mounted components should be in place. Fastening the tube shield tops to their

shield bases can help keep the chassis more stable for the rest of the assembly process, but we do not

recommend installing the tubes until after the kit is completely assembled.

SECTION 2 – Mounting of Rear Components

Please refer to assembly Drawing 4.

Step 1 – Mount the power cord receptacle

Mount the power cord receptacle in the square hole as shown in

Drawing 4 so that the earth ground terminal is positioned closest to

the chassis opening. Except for the locking lug, use #4 hardware.

Make sure that the locking lug is mounted to the same screw and in

the same orientation as shown in the drawing. (1)

(2)

(1)

Earth Ground Terminal

(2)

Step 2 – Mount the fuse holder

Mount the fuse holder in the next hole over from the power cord

receptacle and insert the 1A fast blow fuse along with the fuse

holder’s cap.

(1) (1)

Step 3 – Mount the phono in and out jacks

Drawings 4 shows where to mount these three phono jacks.

Phono Jack Sleeve

Terminal

Solder Lug Washer

Nut

Flat Washer

Place the solder lug washer over the phono jack before inserting

the jack through the 3/8" hole from the inside of the chassis.

(3)

Place the flat washer over the phono jack on the outside of the chassis and fasten the nut while making

sure the sleeve terminals of both solder lug washers are oriented as shown in Drawing 4.

Put a slight bend in the solder lug washer before

mounting the phono jack so that the sleeve terminal

will not be flat against the chassis surface.

Step 4 – Mount the footswitch jack

Mount the footswitch jack in the one remaining rear panel hole as shown in

Drawing 4. This is the ¼” jack with only two solder lugs (tip & sleeve).

SLEEVE TIP

(1)

SECTION 3 – Mounting of Front Components

Please refer to assembly Drawing 4.

Step 2 – Mount the power switch

After removing the screws from its terminals,

mount the power switch in the 15/32" chassis hole

on the front panel as shown in Drawing 4.

Step 1 – Mount the lamp holder

Drawing 4 shows where to mount the lamp holder. (Once the lamp holder is

mounted you may screw in the bulb and then the jewel).

Power Switch

Remove all 6 screws from the

terminals. You will not need

them for this project.

Step 3 – Mount the output jack

Mount the output jack in the next 3/8" hole over

from the lamp holder as shown in Drawing 4.

SLEEVE TIP

SHUNT

Step 4 – Mount the reverb on/off switch

Mount the reverb on/off mini toggle switch in the next 1/4" hole over from the

output jack as shown in Drawing 4.

Chassis

Lock Washer

Hex Nut

Flat Washer

Step 5 – Mount the 500K reverb and 10K dwell pots

Drawing 4 shows where to mount the reverb and dwell pots. When they are mounted, turn their shafts all the

way counter-clockwise. (Once you have done this, you can mount the chicken head knobs while pointing to

where you want the minimum level setting to be positioned).

Step 6 – Mount the input jack

Drawing 4 shows where to mount the input jack.

Bend back mounting tabs

(1) (1)

500KL 10KL ccw

min max

Pot as it would be

positioned while viewed

from the outside of the

chassis and turned right

side up. (2)

Set screw

SLEEVE TIP

SHUNT

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