MMM MINITAUR Manuel utilisateur
MINITAUR EURORACK CONVERSION KIT
DIY GUIDE also includes expander.
What is it and why should I care?
RE-Engineering
RE-Engineering
Normally when a product is engineered to perform a certain way the design is
made to accommodate basic physical functions. How something fits and is
secured in its normal operating destination is all handled in the original design.
Moog engineered the Minitaur to fit in its own custom enclosure. You are now
purposefully removing it from its comfy enclosure and are now re-purposing it
into a different use. YOUR EURORACKING the sucka!
YOU ARE VOIDING YOUR WARRANTEE!!!
To some of you, that might freak you out! It is understandable. Even more so
as you review this DIY manual and review the steps it will take to make it work in
eurorack.
If you later on decide to put it back into its original enclosure it might not work
without reversing some of these steps.
ONE LAST THING TO REMEMBER AS YOU GO THROUGH THIS KIT!
Please realize I have performed this modification on at least three dozen Minitaurs.
I have tried to design this re-engineering procedure to make it as painless as
possible. It however is not pain free!
Please review this ENTIRE manual FIRST! Once familiar you may decide you
want to go your own way on a couple of steps. This is ok and I fully encourage
you to do so. If you find a better way to do something, please let me know. I
am always willing to learn and share.
Since I am RE-Engineering, I have had to make compromises that normally would
not have to be made if I had originally engineered the Minitaur. These
compromises have been thoroughly thought through and while not perfect, I
believe they are the best solutions based on an entry level perspective for the
masses!
What if I get in over my head?
If you are unable to complete, or even start your DIY kit, contact me about
doing it for you. I charge a $75.00 fee, not including shipping to or from
Denver, Colorado USA. [email protected]
- Panel
What’s
in the
Kit?
What’s
in the
Kit?
Tools you need:
- X-acto Knife
with NEW blade!
- Soldering Iron
- Rosin core solder
- Wire cutters
- Electrical Tape
Optional:
- Deep well sockets
- Hot Glue
- Desoldering Iron
- Two Part Epoxy
Note about the epoxy and gluing standoffs!
I would have included the two part epoxy, but shipping regulations do not
permit this. Make sure it is a two part epoxy glue you use!!! You can get
this at your local hardware store.
DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE!!! DO NOT USE HOT GLUE!!!
- Power Cable
- Adhesive Block
- 6 Mono Jacks
- 1 Stereo Jack
- Copper Wire
- Colored Wires
- Stand Offs w/screws
- Power Board
- Vinyl 'shorting' stickers
- Serial # Sticker
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Pliers
- Sandpaper (Not Pictured)
- Standard Screwdriver
While removing the knobs some of the metal resistance clips
may stay stuck on the shafts. Please make sure to gently
remove them and re-insert them back into their respective
knobs.
DO NOT LOSE THEM!!!!!
I have not found a source to replace them!
Place all knobs into a plastic bag for safe keeping.
Step#1Step#1 Remove plastic nuts from jacks on back.
While you are here, also remove the
tiny screws holding the MIDI connector.
Take a piece of tape and slide under
the knob and use a screwdriver to
slightly lift the knob. This will give you
space to use your fingers and gently
remove the knob.
These are plastic shaft pots, so
GO EASY,
and take your time!
You only need to use tape if you don't
want to scratch the old shell.
Step#2Step#2
Remove all chassis screws. Both sides and
the top have screws.
Once inside, observe the ribbon cable
connecting both circuit boards.
Remove the silicone gel from the corners of
the cable. You should be able to do this with
your fingers.
If not, GENTLY use a small screw driver and
use it AND your fingers to remove.
GENTLY remove the ribbon cable from
the front printed circuit board.
Once removed, set the bottom to the side.
Some later models have no silicone!
Lucky you!
Using a deep well socket or
CAREFULLY using pliers, remove
the nuts and washers from the
front panel. Please use sockets
if at all possible! Removing now
is no big deal if you scratch the
old shell, but scratching your new
front panel will not make you
happy!
Again use tape if you don't want
to scratch the front of the old shell.
Put all knobs and screws and
washers into a plastic bag!!
Step#3Step#3
Now we need to determine where this module is going. The front circuit board is a
VERY tight fit. We need to make some room. The easiest way to get an idea of the
problem is to test fit where it will be going.
I have several types of racks in the lab and I have found that the Doepfer/TipTop
rails to be the tightest fit. So I am using them as my guide for this manual. You
might be using vector rails in a custom unit, if so, your tolerances will be looser
and you might have no size issues.
Just because you have no issues now, does not mean the next guy who you sell
your Minitaur to will have no issue, so please keep that in mind while performing
the next steps!
Step#4Step#4
If you plan to never sell your Minitaur, then NO WORRIES. Just custom fit to your
rack dimensions and you are good to go.
Test your final rack opening by taking a
couple of washers and nuts and attach the
front panel. This is temporary.
Now place into your opening and you might
immediately see a couple of issues.
The cable might be hitting on top and the
circuit board might be getting hung up on the
bottom. In these pics I am using TipTop rails.
Again if you have no problems and you have
no plans on selling it, than you are home free!
If you do have problems, let's move to the next
steps to see what we can do to eliminate them!
First we will focus on the bottom, the circuit board. The first thing we can do is sand down a
couple of millimeters. The pic above shows the un-altered board. The bottom pic is after sanding.
You can sand down VERY close and still not touch the bottom trace.
How should you sand this down? Next page, please.
Step#5Step#5
BeforeBefore
AfterAfter
Here is where a belt sander can come in really handy!! Even so, if you go this route,
GO SLOW!!!!! You can go too fast and permanently damage your circuit board.
Ok, so you don't have a belt sander handy, did you notice your kit included some sand paper?
Yes, believe it or not you can actually do this by hand! Takes about 35 minutes of focused work,
but I have done this.
Think a few minutes of pain for many hours of pleasure.
You can use other methods, like a Dremel etc. And if you feel confident using those tools,
then please do what feels best for you.
Please be careful and take your time!
Keep the circuit board firmly secure and use even pressure and even strokes!
Step#6Step#6
Now to the top of the board and the cable.
THIS STEP DEMANDS PATIENCE!!! Part of the pain I spoke of earlier. We need to slide off the
black plastic shroud around the two rows of pins. This can be done VERY slowly by pulling
each side back and forth. You can use a hair dryer to heat the plastic making it a little easier.
DO NOT USE TOOLS!!! You can easily slip and damage the circuit board.
On average with constant effort, this will take at least 30 minutes to accomplish. Go slow and
don't give up. A little pain now for lots of pleasure later!
Some more recent versions this little guy flies right off, but older ones don't!
If you have test fit your front panel and circuit board and find you have plenty of room and don't
need to do this step, then by all means, skip it! However, if you ever plan to sell your Minitaur
to someone else, please realize they might have a 'tighter' rail set up than you and might
experience problems with their fit.
DON'T LEAVE THE PINS EXPOSED LIKE THIS FOR VERY LONG!
They are VERY fragile in this state. Please reattach your ribbon cable. Make sure to attach the
correct end of the cable and go very slow re-attaching to make sure not to bend any pins!
Step#7Step#7
