Next, mount the microphone capsule to the saddle with the supplied screws and
washers. DO NOT TOUCH THE MEMBRANES!
Lead the wires of the capsule through the holes in the bottom plate of the headbasket
compartment. It may be a good idea to mark which wire is coming from the front
membrane, and which one is coming from the rear membrane. The backplate wire
(connected to the side of the capsule) usually has a differen color, so the function of
this wire is clear.
In some cases, the backplate wire is connected tot a point you need to screw the capsule to the
mount. In that case, carefully remove the screw with the backplate wire and move it to a position
where it is not in the way of the mounting holes in the saddle.
Now comes a part that requires some ‘micro surgery skills’...
(During this procedure you may want to leave the headbasket off for better access,
but if you do so, cover the capsule with a plastic bag, to prevent flux ‘splashing’ on
the membranes while soldering.)
- Solder the backplate wire to the point where the 1 G.ohm resistor and the 1000pF
capacitor are connected and are ‘floating in the air’.
- Solder the wire from the front membrane to the point on the audio PCB marked
“Gnd.”
- Solder the wire from the rear membrane to the point on the audio PCB marked
“Rear”.
If this is done, secure the headbasket with two screws.
Now solder the wires coming from the XLR connector to the audio PCB:
Fil: Yellow wire, filament voltage
Gnd: White wire, Ground
A: Black wire, Audio (black from transformer)
A: Green wire, Audio (orange from transformer)
+HT: Red wire, +120V
Pat: Blue wire, pattern selection
The last thing to do, is to insert the EF808S tube.
This goes easier, if you first push the end of a paperclip in all contacts of the tube
socket. Doing so, will make them a little bit wider, so it is easier to put the tube in.
In principle the microphone is finished now!
XLR wire connections
