Kenmore 17570 Manuel utilisateur

TABLE OF CONTENTS

[ Knowing Your Sewing Machine

identifying Parts ............................. 1,2

Installing Machine .............................. 3

Winding the Bobbin ........................... 4

Threading the Bobbin Case .................. 5

"[hreading of Top Thread ..................... 6

Using the Controls

Top Tension Control .................... 7.8

Adjusting Bobbin Tension .................. 9

Checking Tensions ....................... 10

Stitch Length Control ,,: ............... 1t 12

Stitch Width Control .................. lt, 12

Reverse Stitch Control .................. 11. t2

Special Stitch Variegator .................. ', t

Metal Cam .................................. |3

Special Stitch Dial ................... 14.15, 16

Pressure Regulator ........................ | 7

Feed Dog Control ...... •.................... t8

Sewing Light................................. 18

Multi Purpose Needle Plate ............... 19

Accessories

Needles ................................ 20 21

Presser Feet ................................ 22

Buttonhole Attachment .................... 23

]_ Starting to Sew ............................ 24

Garment Construction Stitches

Straight Stitching .......................... 25

Zigzag Stitching ........................... 26

Chain Stitching ............................. 27. 28

Stretch Stitching ............. 29 30.3t 32

Special Finishing Stitches

Satin Stitching ............................. 33

Buttonhole Making ....................... 34

Appliqueing °;. .............................. 35

Blind. Hemming ....................... 35.36

_[ Checking Performance Problems .... 37, 38

Hints on Sewing on Different Fabrics 39.40

p/" Caring for the Machine

Cleaning Feed Dogs end Shuttle ........ 42

Oiling Under Arm Cover Plate ........... 43

Oiling Underside ........................... 44

Oiling in Face Cover Plate ................. 44

Parts List ................................. 45.46

1. KNOWING YOUR MACHINE-

FRONT VIEW

BACK VIEW

1. Hand Hole Cover Plate

2. Seam Guide Lines

3. Presser Foot

4. Needle Clamp Screw

5. Thread Cutter

6. Thread Guide

7. Top Thread Tension Control

8. Thread Guide

9. Face Cover Plate

10, Take-up Lever

11. Upper Thread Guides

12. Special Stitch Variegator

13, Stitch Length Control

14. Reverse Stitch Control

15, Stitch Width Control

16. Special Stitch Dial

17. Light and Power Switch

18. Feed Dog Control

19. Nomenclature Plate

20. Clutch Knob

21. Hand Wheel

22. Bobbin Winder

23. Thread Spool Pins

24. Design Cam Cover

25. Bobbin Winder Tension Disc

26. Pressure Regulator

27. Presser Foot Lever

28. Presser Foot Thumb Screw

29. Multi Purpose Needle Plate

30, Feed Dogs

INSTALLINGMACHINE WINDINGTHEBOBBIN

® ®

®i

I, Loosenthe two hinge screws under

holes in the rear edge of the ma-

chine bed.

2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet

cutout. Slip machine head onto

pins.

3. Tighten hinge screws securely.

4. Push the speed control plug onto

three-prong connector under the

bed plate. Lower machine head to

front cabinet flap.

Lower machine head to front

cabinet flap.

5. Plug machine cord into any 110-

120 volt wall outlet. Turn on power

by pushing light and power switch.

6. Spool pins are packed in accessory

box; after screwing thread spool

pins in place, wipe machine care-

fully of excess oil used in shipping.

1. Draw thread from spool through

bobbin winder tension disc as

shown in Fig. 1.

2. Wind threadaroundanempty bob-

bin severaltimesas in Fig.2.

3. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder

shaft with thread wound on bobbin

clockwise. Push bobbin winder

latch against bobbin until it clicks.

4. Release clutch by turning clutch

knob toward you. Start machine.

5. When bobbin is full, winding

mechanism stops.

6. Tighten clutch knob and remove

bobbin.

THREADINGTHEBOBBINCASE THREADINGOFTOPTHREAD

®®

1. To remove bobbin from the shuttle,

raise needle to its highest position.

Remove hand hole cover plate.

2. Pull open latch of bobbin case.

3. Pull bobbin case straight out of

shuttle.

4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case

making sure thread is coming

from bobbin as shown.

5. Pull thread through slot of case

as shown.

6. Pull thread under tension spring.

7. Holding latch open, position case

into shuttle, and releaselatch. Case

should lock into place when latch

is released.

8. Hold needle thread loosely in left

hand and rotate hand wheel toward

you one complete turn. Bring bob-

bin thread up by pulling upper

thread.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

;__ Fig. 3

Place thread on spool pin as shown

with thread coming from the back of

the spool. Draw thread through the

top thread guides. Holding the spool

stationary with right hand, pull the end

of the thread between the tension discs

as shown. Pull the spring wire loop up

and past the top hook until the thread

can be slipped into the hook (See Fig.

1). When the thread is released, the

spring wire loop will return to position

(See Fig. 2) with thread in proper

place. Release spool of thread and

continue to thread machine exactly as

shown. Needle mustalways be thread-

ed in direction as shown in Fig. 3.

5 6

CONTROLS

TOP TENSION CONTROL ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS

OA perfect straight stitch will have

threads locked between the two

layers of fabric with no loops on

top or bottom.

Probably the most important control on your machine isthis one that regulates

your top thread tension. It consists of discsbetween which the thread passes.

The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial on the front of

the control. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.

There are many reasons for having to reset your tension. The best tension

for one fabric may not be correct for another. The required tension depends

upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the fabric, numbers of layers of

fabric being sewn, as well as the type of stitch you are making.

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before

starting to make a garment. To adjust for the correct stitch, see next page.

0 Upper thread too tight

t_ t. -

"I! =, t/Decrease Tension

Upper thread too loose

Increase Tension

ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSION,

Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread

tension.

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to

loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance

them as indicated on Page 9.

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin case, make slight adjustments with

•ascrewdriver.

DECREASE TENSION

INCREASE TENSION

Turn Counter Clockwise.

Turn Clockwise.

CHECKING TENSIONS

To check the thread tension balance, be sure to use mercerized thread of the

same size on the top and on the bobbin; and a sharp, correctly sized needle

for the fabric you are sewing. Begin with a full bobbin. Set the stitch length

for about 12 stitches per inch.

Fold a6" square of fabric in half diagonally, forming a triangle. Make a line of

stitching 1/2" in from the fold.

a. If seam is puckered - both tensions are too tight.

b. If the bottom thread lays on the fabric - tighten upper thread

tension, and repeat test. See Fig. 3, Page 8.

c. If the top thread lays on the fabric - loosen upper thread tension,

and repeat test. See Fig. 2, Page 8.

Grasp the stitching and pull with asnap to make the threads break.

a. If both threads break - tensions are balanced.

b. If neither thread breaks - both tensions are too loose.

c. If upper thread breaks - loosen top tension.

d. If lower thread breaks - tighten top tension.

Both threads do not have to break at the same place, but they should break

on the same snap.

It is necessary to reduce the upper thread tension somewhat when zigzag

stitching. The wider the stitch, the lesstension that is needed. This is par-

ticularly important when making designs. It is not desirable to have any of

bottom thread visible on the right side of the fabric when making designs.

9 10

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control regulates the length of the stitch you select. THE

HIGHER THE NUMBER - THE SHORTER THE STITCH. Turn only the outer

rim of this control to set the stitch length.

The number on stitch length control indicates stitch number per inch.

The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric

you are sewing.

Alonger stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of

fabric.

The middle range of the control is the 10-12 stitch per inch range which is

the most commonly used.

A basting stitch ismade by using the longest possible stitch setting - 6 stitches

per inch.

The red marking m on the control is the setting used for the shortest

stitches such as in Satin Stitching.

STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

This control regulates the width of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE

NUMBER - THE WIDER THE STITCH. You may vary your zigzag stitch width

by adjusting this control to the setting you desire.

This control must be on Red Dot in order to do straight stitching,

Turn only the outer rim of this control to set the stitch width.

The center of the control dials the special stitches the machine is capable

of sewing.

REVERSE STITCH CONTROL

It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse. This

is called back tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly

and prevents raveling.

When reversestitching isneeded, simply lower the lever and hold there during

sewing, The fabric will immediately start feeding backwards and the seam

will be fastened.

REVERSE STITCH CONTROL

11 12

SPECIAL STITCH VARIEGATOR SPECIAL STITCH DIAL

There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your home

sewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the

task at hand.

This control determines the feed of the feed dogs. All _imple forward stitcl_es

require that this control be set at the red dot. These stitches are the

straight stitch, zigzag, mending, blind hem, and basic decorative desig,n_

All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special Stitch

Variegator set at the Red Dot.

To make the stitches printed in white and green on this dial,the Special Stitch

Variegator must be set at the white and green dots.

Stretch stitches and reverse stitch designs are made by setting the Special

Stitch Variegator to point to the white and green dots or adjusted slightly

toward the white arrow head mark above the dots. See next section for

specific settings for individual stitches. THE RED DOT SETTING

METAL CAM

White

Cam

Position

Indicator Pin.

When you open the Design Cam Cover you will find a metal cam in the

machine as illustrated. This cam must remain in the machine at all times,

unless you are using one of the plastic design cams.

It is best to have the cam so placed that the white zone is aligned with the

indicator pin. This will allow you to sew the stitches printed in white on

your Special Stitch Dial. To make the green stitches, reposition the metal

cam so that the green zone is adjacent to the indicator pin.

The setting illustrated above is the one used for most of your stitching.

At this setting you may straight stitch, stretch stitch and make a simple

zig zag stitch. As each stitch isdependent upon the settings of your other

controls, carefully read the directions in thi_ next section of the book for the

various stitches.

13 14

BLIND STITCH SETTING CAM SETTING

Blind hems are made by using the setting shown above with the Stitch

Variegator set onthe red dot.

SPECIAL MENDING STITCH AND SMOCKING STRETCH

The CAM setting on the dial is used whenever you wish to use any of the

14 insert cams to make decorative embroidery patterns. Very detailed in-

structions in the use of the cams and designs are given in the next section

of the book.

SERGING OR PINE LEAF STRETCH

You will find that much of your sewing is in the mending category. For this

reason you have been provided with a stitch for the repair of tears. It is

accomplished with the above illustrated setting and the Variegator set at

the red dot. When the Variegator is turned to the white and green dots, a

Smocking stretch or Feather stretch results. For directions see the next

section of the book.

This is a stitch that has been used in the garment industry for many years.

It forms a good looking seam as well as overcasts the edges. It is imperative

that this stitch is used for seaming of swimwear, stretch ski pants and other

types of knit sportswear. Variegator must be set on the white and green

dots.

OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING

In additionto the obviouscontrolsof your machine,there are other small

regulatorsand controlsto aid you in usingyour sewing machine.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the

pressure on the presserfoot. (See above).

To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until a suitable pressure is

obtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches,

or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear

on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure.Increase

pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

FEED DOG CONTROL

The feed dog control is located on the

right front of the machine bedplate.

There are a few times when you want

to control the feeding of the fabric

yourself. When the control is turned

to the left, the feed dogs drop and do

not move the fabric.

For most of your sewing, turn knob to

the right, "'U" (Feed dog up).

SEWING LIGHT

The light and power switch shown

above in Fig. 1 provides the electric

current for the motor as well as the

light. In order to operate the machine,

this switch must be on.

To turn on the light, depress the

switch.

If you are interrupted while sewing

and must leave the machine unattend-

ed, just turn off the switch and the ma-

chine cannot be started accidentally.

The sewing light is located inside the

face cover plate as shown. To replace

the bulb, turn light off, and swing the

face cover plate open. Push up on the

bulb slightly and turn bulb clockwise.

Remove bulb from socket. Push in

new bulb and turn counter-clockwise.

Ce manuel convient aux modèles suivants

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