ImmersionRC Vortex 150 Mini Manuel utilisateur
150 Mini Getting Started Guide
International edition
Rev 1.0 - Dec 2016
Every Vortex 150 Mini is flight tested before
leaving the factory.
Flight Tested By:
WARNING
Congratulations on your purchase of one of the hobby’s first ARF pure-bred racing quadcopters. A
product designed by FPV Racers, for FPV Racers.
Do not expect it to fly like a DJI Phantom™ . It does not have a return-to-home feature, no GPS, and it
does not have stabilization features that will allow your little brother to fly.
Take it easy if you are new to the world of FPV racing, try to avoid slamming the quad into the first wall
before you have mastered slaloming through the trees on the way to the wall.
Acro mode is something that should be learned as soon as possible, flying any other mode is a bit like
driving a Lamborghini around a parking-lot in reverse… not exactly what you bought the Lambo for.
Please carefully read the recommendations in this getting started guide, as far as equipment/battery
selection, and how to run the Vortex 150 Mini Wizard.
REMOVE PROPS
Mini-quad props can do serious damage when coming in contact with human skin, risk of deep cuts and
lacerations should be avoided at all cost.
So when you are working on a quad with the battery connected, it is highly recommended to REMOVE
ALL PROPS, unless you are just about to fly. Keep in mind that when setting up mini-quads, there is
always a remote chance that a configuration change can spin up motors unexpectedly.
ImmersionRC accepts no responsibility, or liability, for any injury, or damage, to persons or property, caused
by the use of the Vortex.
INSTALL ANTENNA
The Video Transmitter included in the Vortex may be damaged permanently if run without the supplied
SpiroNET Antenna. Please take care to install this antenna before every flight, and when powering up the
Vortex for even a short time period.
ImmersionRC accepts no responsibility for damage caused to the Vortex by operating without a suitable Tx
antenna installed.
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4 Steps: Unboxing to Racing
To get your ARF Vortex ready to race, follow the simple 4-step process below.
1) Install Compatible R/C Receiver
2)Install suitable battery
3) Setup the video link
4) Run the wizard
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1) Install Compatible R/C Receiver
The Vortex 150 Mini is shipped with three receiver interface cables, supporting 4 commonly used
interfaces.
a) 3-Pin 0.1” Servo Cable, for S-Bus, and CPPM (5V)
b) 5-pin Picoblade for FrSky XSR receivers (5V)
c) 3-pin JST-ZH for Spektrum DSMX receivers (3V)
Receivers may be mounted externally on the tail-end of the quad, or internally. Internally is definitely the
preferred solution but does require a suitably small receiver.
The following are recommended for internal installation:
1) FrSky XSR, using the supplied XSR cable
2) FrSky X4R-SB, ‘Naked’ version with SBus output
Requires some soldering to wire sbus cable
3) Spektrum SPM4648 Auto-bind receiver with supplied DSMX cable
Remove plastic case and heat-shrink for optimal fit
4) Spektrum SPM9646 Carbon fuse receiver
5) Spektrum SPM9649T Telemetry receiver
To access the receiver bay for internal receiver mounting, remove the 8 screws which secure the top
plate to the arms, and carefully remove the top assembly, which includes the camera unit.
The receiver connector is indicated by the red arrow below. To mount the receiver, a small piece of
double-sided tape may be used on the top of the metal can in the receiver bay.
Finally, the receiver antennas may be routed through the two notches in the bottom of the LED diffuser.
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Notes on Receiver Selection
One critical parameter to keep to a minimum in a race quad setup is latency. Latency from what the
camera sees to the display device, and also from the control stick to the flight controller.
For minimum latency, with reasonable range, the Spektrum™ radios and satellite receivers are a great
choice. Another good (and quite common) choice is the FrSky Taranis radio with a matched S-Bus
receiver (X4R for example).
For longer-range FPV, the EzUHF system is a good choice. Due to the close proximity of the electronics
and Video Transmitter on a mini-quad, and the lack of a suitable ground-plane, a diversity receiver, with
dipole antennas is highly recommended.
Note: An update to all existing EzUHF systems will be available early Dec. 2015, which will enable an S-Bus
output, as opposed to the more traditional PPM. This will greatly reduce latency.
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Receiver Auto-Detection
A unique feature of the Vortex family of quadcopters is that the receiver type is auto-detected by the OSD
when running the wizard.
With the Vortex 150 Pro, it is no longer necessary to manually specify the receiver type with the
ImmersionRC Tools before running the wizard.
R/C Transmitter Configuration
The advanced wizard used in the Vortex 150 Mini is cable of detecting most transmitter configurations.
Channel ordering, stick range, center position, etc. are all learned by the wizard.
In most cases it is better to start from a ‘default’ model on the R/C transmitter. On the Taranis, select the
quadcopter option, and leave all settings as defaults.
2) Install a Suitable Battery
The Vortex 150 Mini has a flexible battery mounting system, and uses an industry-standard XT-30
connector. This allows it to use a wide range of different batteries.
To help select a suitable battery for your flying-style, read this section carefully:
Voltage
First things first, voltage. For starting out with the Vortex, a 3s (11.1V) pack is recommended.
A Vortex running 4s (14.8V) is an extremely fast race-quad, which can easily get a pilot into trouble.
A 3s pack calms things down a bit, and is a good way to ease into the hobby, hence novice pilots should
certainly start out on 3s.
Note that the 16A ESCs installed in the Vortex 150 Mini do support ‘LiHV’ packs, with a cell voltage of
4.35V as opposed to the standard 4.20V cell voltage with LiPo packs.
Capacity
For capacity, there are a few things to remember. Firstly, keeping weight down on a mini-quad is the best
way to increase crash survivability as well as improve acceleration, climb speed and general agility of the
quad.
Also remember that most races are just a few laps, so a huge capacity battery is just dead weight, and
will never be drained in the typical race.
650-850mAh packs, or similar, are ImmersionRC’s choice for racing. 3s for beginners, 4s for pros.
NOTE: We do not recommend the use of 1300mAh+ batteries used on 250 quads on the 150. The extra
weight of the battery can cause serious damage in crashes with the lightweight 150 frame.
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‘C’ Rating
Battery ‘C’ rating is a particular problem for high-performance, lightweight quads. Pick the highest C rated
pack available.
For a 250 quad, a 65C 1300mAh pack can be run at 85A continuously.
A 150 quad with a 45C 850mAh pack can manage 38A, which is fairly easy to exceed in high-power
manoeuvres.
NOTE: Ensure that the battery is securely mounted on the anti-slip pad. The battery should not be
able to move around in flight. Also make sure the plastic liner on the anti-slip pad is removed!
ANOTHER NOTE: Ensure that your main battery cables, and also the balance leads are secured in
the straps, and cannot, under any circumstances, touch the props.
Sliced battery cables and/or balance leads are a cause of expensive shorts, fires, and crashes!
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3) Setup the Video Link
To avoid the traditional ‘dip-switch chaos’ at race events, the Vortex does not use a DIP switch to define
Video Tx channels. Instead, the OSD is responsible for setting the channel, and band.
The Vortex ships with a default Tx frequency of 5740MHz, which corresponds to ImmersionRC/FatShark
frequencies, Channel 1.
If you are running ImmersionRC receivers, or a FatShark headset using the standard 5.8GHz module, just
select Channel 1, and the wizard image should be shown.
If you are running non-ImmersionRC/FatShark gear which cannot tune to 5740MHz, it may be necessary
to switch bands on the Vortex before the wizard image is displayed. To do this, set your receiver to
Channel 1, and use the small button on the left side of the quad.
To switch bands, press the button on the LED board for approx. 2 seconds until you hear the first beep,
and release. .
The Vortex will beep a number of times, representing the band number. Each time the button is pressed,
the band number will be incremented.
The band/beep order is as follows:
Band 1: IRC/FS (5740MHz)
Band 2: RaceBand (5658MHz)
Band 3: Band E (5705MHz)
Band 4: Band B (5733MHz)
Band 5: Band A (5865MHz)
For a full list of channel frequencies for each band, please refer to the full Instruction Manual.
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4) Run the Wizard
In the world of R/C, there is little standardization between equipment manufacturers as far as control
stick to channel mapping. There is also little agreement between users as to which of the 4 control
modes should be used.
Since in the Vortex, both the OSD, and the Flight Controller need to know the channel mappings, a ‘Tx
Setup Wizard’ is included to greatly simplify the process.
This wizard also configures various flight controller parameters which would normally require a personal
computer, with a USB connection to the quad copter.
NOTE: The wizard should allow a brand-new, unconfigured Vortex, to be removed from its
shipping box at a race event, and prepared for flight in less than a minute, with no tools, or USB
hookups required.
For the techies, there is a full description of the configuration steps performed near the end of the full
user’s manual, under ‘Appendix A: The Wizard - Details’.
The first time the Vortex is powered up, the Tx Setup Wizard is presented, as shown after the mode
1/mode 2 control descriptions below.
Following the instructions on-screen, 5 simple steps, will configure the 4 flight channels, and one
auxiliary control (CH5) which will control the flight mode.
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Mode 2 Controls
Mode 2, arguably the most common stick mode, is common in the USA, and is a natural fit to helis, and
multirotors.
A Mode 2 transmitter is easily identified with the un-sprung (i.e. doesn’t return to center) throttle control
on the left stick.
For this mode, the multi-rotor controls are typically as follows:
Throttle
Pitch
Yaw
Roll
Mode 1 Controls
Mode 1 is common in Europe.
A Mode 1 transmitter is easily identified with the un-sprung (i.e. doesn’t return to center) throttle control
on the right stick.
For this mode, the multi-rotor controls are typically as follows:
Pitch
Throttle
Yaw
Roll
Note: Modes 3 and 4 are intentionally left out of this abbreviated Getting Started guide. It is assumed that
pilots flying these more ‘uncommon’ modes, are already very familiar with their remote, and their control
mapping.
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