Gary Fisher Cronos Instructions d'utilisation et d'installation
| pitchbook2010
2010
2 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
Service Information
The Gary Fisher Cronus is the lightest, strongest frameset we have ever made.
To accomplish this, we have used shaped and very thin-walled carbon tubes. Because
of its unique features, the Gary Fisher Cronus requires different or additional
assembly techniques, provided here:
+ Carbon ber care
+ Headset bearing installation
+ Front hub and fork integration
+ Bottom bracket bearing installation for a variety of bottom bracket types
Check www.fisherbikes.com for updates.
These instructions are written for an experienced mechanic. If you need further
information, refer to your bicycle owner’s manual, the instructions in a bicycle
mechanic’s handbook, or consult your dealer.
Please save these instructions for future reference.
3 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
Working with Carbon Fiber Parts ....................................................................................................................1
Cutting a carbon ber steerer ........................................................................................................................ 2
To cut the steerer ..................................................................................................................................................3
Headset Installation ..............................................................................................................................................4
Special Care Information ....................................................................................................................................4
Inspecting the Headset .......................................................................................................................................6
Fender Installation ..................................................................................................................................................7
FCC Steering System ...........................................................................................................................................9
Crankset Installation ..........................................................................................................................................10
SRAM GXP ................................................................................................................................................................ 11
Shimano HollowTech ............................................................................................................................................14
Campagnolo UltraTorque ..................................................................................................................................18
Inspecting the bottom bracket .................................................................................................................... 20
FSA MegaExo AL ...................................................................................................................................................21
Cronus Crankset Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................24
Bearing play in a GXP crank or bottom bracket assembly ................................................................24
Crank is rubbing or there is excessive drag ........................................................................................... 25
GXP triple crankset can’t be properly preloaded ................................................................................. 25
4 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
Working with Carbon Fiber Parts
Carbon ber parts are different from metal parts, so they require different treatment.
Keep carbon away from sharp edges or excessive pressure
Carbon ber composite can be damaged by sharp edges or clamping mechanisms
which cause a point load, or a high pressure area. The clamps on some parts are not
compatible with carbon; some stems, seat post clamps, etc. have sharp edges and/or
clamps that create pressure points. Before installing any carbon ber part, or attaching
any component to an existing carbon ber part, make sure the parts or components are
carbon-compatible.
As carbon frames have gotten lighter and lighter, you can now feel movement in the tubes
when you squeeze them. This is normal and no reection of the strength of the frame.
However, repeated compression of the sides of the tubes is not good for them, and could
eventually lead to frame damage. Do not squeeze the frame tubing with your ngers, and
especially never clamp the tubing in any mechanical device, including car racks.
Clean carbon parts before installation
With the interfaces of metal parts, grease is used on the clamping surfaces to prevent
corrosion. When making adjustments, always grease the threads and shoulders of bolts.
Grease reduces corrosion and allows you to achieve the correct tightness without
damaging tools.
However, with most carbon parts you should avoid grease. If grease is applied to a carbon
part that is clamped, the part may slip in the clamp, even at the recommended torque
specication. The carbon part can be assembled in a clean, dry state. As an alternative,
we recommend the following special carbon prep products:
+ Tacx carbon assembly compound
+ Fiber Grip™ carbon ber assembly gel from Finish Line
On the other hand, the bearing seats of the Cronus frameset do require grease, as
explained in these instructions.
Never modify the fork, frame, or components
The parts of the Cronus frameset have been carefully designed to meet the strength and
function requirements of safe riding. Modifying these parts in any way may make the bike
unsafe. As an example, removing the redundant wheel retention tabs on fork tips could
make the fork less functional.
Suspension forks can add stress to a bike frame. Never add a suspension fork to a road
bike, or change style and/or length of forks. If you are unsure if a fork is compatible
with a frame, call Gary Fisher customer service. Any modication of a frame, fork, or
components means that the bike no longer meets our specications and will therefore
void the bike’s warranty.
5 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
Cutting a carbon ber steerer
These instructions explain the best practices for cutting a carbon ber steerer tube.
About cutting carbon ber
High quality carbon ber composite behaves like a solid; if the layers of carbon are
correctly bonded together, there will be no layers or loose bers apparent. Your job
when cutting the steerer is to avoid damage to the steerer that might separate layers
or leave loose bers. Done correctly, there is no need to dress the steerer with tape
before cutting, or to dress it with epoxy after cutting.
Measure twice, cut once
Before cutting the steerer, make sure the steerer length is correct. Remember these
requirements:
+ Place at least two spacers under the stem (two 5mm spacers are acceptable).
+ Do not stack more than 40mm of spacers.
+ Use a stem with circumferential clamps; never use a wedge-type stem.
Use the correct tools in the correct manner
+ Do not scratch or score the steerer below the cut line; any damage to the tube
surface (scratches, cracks, or torn or loose bers) can compromise the strength
of the steerer.
+ Allow the saw to do the work; instead of cutting cleanly, excessive pressure tends
to pull on or tear the carbon.
+ Always cut toward the center of the steerer, which helps prevent splintering of
the carbon. This requires turning the steerer in the saw guide. Keep the cut aligned
correctly so that the nished cut is even and perpendicular to the centerline of
the steerer.
+ Avoid inhaling the carbon ber dust that occurs during the cutting process.
Materials and tools needed
+ Bench vise
+ Saw guide to create a perpendicular cut (e.g. Park Tool Threadless Saw Guide #SG-6)
+ Hacksaw with Carbide Grit hacksaw blade
+ Fine grit sandpaper (220 - 400 grit)
+ File: smooth tooth or mill bastard
6 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
1. Clamp the saw guide securely in the bench vise.
2. Clamp the steerer in the saw guide.
+ Be careful not to crush the steerer; do not overtighten.
3. Using only light pressure on the saw blade, cut about halfway through the steerer
(Figure 1).
+ Be careful not to create loose bers—on the inside or the outside the steerer.
4. While keeping the cut aligned with the cutting guide, rotate the fork 180 degrees in
the guide (Figure 2).
5. Finish cutting the steerer.
6. Loosen the saw guide slightly and push the steerer through until the end can be
dressed. Retighten.
7. Working away from the crown, le the outside corner off the cut end of the steerer.
(Figure 3)
+ You can also use sand paper for this step. Sandpaper is less aggressive and a bit more forgiving.
8. With the sandpaper, smooth the end of the steer tube and the inside corner
(Figure 4).
+ This can be done with a “shoeshine” movement or by rotating and reciprocation with the
sandpaper.
9. Remove the fork from the saw guide.
10. Inspect for frayed, loose, or broken bers. Repair as needed.
+ If, despite your care, some individual bers break free, treat the bers with care because if
one is pulled or moved, it could “zipper” down the length or the steerer.
+ If a loose ber area is small and short, you can repair it. To repair, glue the ber in place with
two-part epoxy. Finish by lightly sanding with 220 or 400 grit sandpaper.
+ If you see loose bers extending more than one-half the length of the steerer, have the fork
evaluated by Fisher before repairing or installing.
The fork is now ready for you to complete the fork installation.
7 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
Headset Installation
The headset of the Cronus uses a 1.5” lower bearing and 11/8” upper bearing (Figure 5).
The bearings are slip-t into the frame. There are many benets to this design, and one is
that the Cronus headset is a tool-less installation. The bearings are slip t, so a headset
press or fork race setting tool are not needed.
The fork on the Cronus frame has several unique features that require special care to
avoid frame damage:
+ With a carbon steerer, do not use a star-fangled nut; use only the compression nut
assembly supplied with the fork.
+ Do not cut or machine the fork crown or head tube; never use facing tools.
+ Do not use a hammer to install the bearings.
+ Make sure the stem clamp is designed correctly and is free of burrs.
+ If you choose to cut the steerer, follow all normal procedures and cautions
regarding carbon ber composite parts. If you are not familiar with these
procedures, consult your dealer.
Tools and materials required
+ Top cap assembly
For carbon steerer: Compression nut assembly PN 408118
+ Stem
+ Optional headset spacers, maximum of 40 mm including bearing cover (Figure 18)
+ Bearing cover, conical
Aluminum 5 mm PN 404691 15 mm PN 404689
Carbon 5 mm PN 404690 15 mm PN 404687
+ Shims, 1mm
+ Centering washer
+ Upper bearing, 11/8”
Steel PN 271111
Stainless steel PN 271112
+ Lower bearing, 1.5” PN 290413
+ Fork
+ Rock “N” Roll Super Coat grease
+ 4 and 5 mm allen wrenches
+ Torque wrench
8 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
To install the bearings
1. Apply a light coat of grease to the inner race of the lower bearing.
2. Install the bearing on the steerer (Figure 6).
+ The bearing is symmetrical, so either side is “right-side up.”
3. Apply a liberal coat of grease to the bearing seats of the head tube, both top
and bottom (Figure 7).
4. Slide the steerer (with the bearing installed) through the head tube (Figure 8).
5. Slide the upper bearing down the steerer and into the frame.
6. Slide the centering washer onto the steerer (Figure 9).
9 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
To install the shims, bearing cover, and spacers
Fisher installs three 1mm shims between the centering washer and the bearing cover
to ensure an adequate space between the bearing cover and the top of the head tube.
There should be at least 0.5 millimeter space to prevent contact or interference.
1. Slide the three shims onto the steerer.
2. Slide the bearing cover onto the steerer (Figure 10).
3. Measure the gap between the head tube and the bearing cover.
+ In some cases, all three shims may provide more clearance than necessary. In this case, remove
shims until there is only one millimeter of space between the head tube and the bearing cover
(Figure 11).
4. Slide the headset spacers and the stem onto the steerer.
5. Install the headset top cap and adjusting bolt.
+ For a carbon steerer, do not use a star-fangled nut. Use the special adjusting plug.
6. Adjust the headset.
+ The Cronus headset uses an angular contact bearing system, so the headset will rotate
freely with a wide range of tension. Make sure there is no free play, but do not overtighten
the bearings because they might wear prematurely.
7. Tighten the stem clamp bolts to the manufacturer’s recommendation.
8. Follow the steps in “Inspecting the Headset.”
Once a month inspect the headset of your bicycle to see that it is not loose, nor too
tight. If your headset bearings are loose or too tight, do not ride the bicycle.
Readjust the bearings or take your bike to your Gary Fisher dealer for service.
To check is the headset is too loose
1. Stand over the top tube of your bicycle with both feet on the ground.
2. Apply the front brake rmly while you rock the bicycle forward and backward.
3. Look, listen, and feel for looseness of the headset bearings.
To check is the headset is too tight
1. With the front wheel off the ground, slowly rotate the fork and handlebar to the
right and left.
2. Look, listen, and feel for any grinding noises, or stickiness or binding at any point
in the rotation.
10 | GARY FISHER SERVICE INFORMATION
Fender Installation
This section explains how to install front and rear fenders on a Cronus using the
accessory dropout adapters and custom brake attachment nuts. Each dropout adapter,
or “eyelet,” is a special screw with an eyelet. The brake attachment nut includes a bolt
that threads into the nut.
Description Part number
Custom dropout eyelet w/locknut, set of four
Eyelet (2) 295468
Locknut (2) 300381
Custom brake nut w/inside screw, set of two
Nut (FT) 297424
Nut (RR) 297728
Installing the eyelets
1. With a 25mm hex, remove the plugs that cover the threaded holes in the rear dropouts
and fork tips (Figure 12).
2. Thread a locknut onto each eyelet, and thread the eyelet into the dropout (Figure 13).
3. Align the eyelet and secure its position by tightening the locknut.
Attaching the bridge clips
1. Loosen and remove the interior screw from the brake nut (Figure 14).
2. Position the bridge clip and place the interior screw through the attachment hole
(Figure 15), but do not tighten.
Continued next page
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