FSA GT1-70 Manuel utilisateur

GT1-70 Shuttle | Portable RO System

Contents

WARNING:...................................................................................................................................................................... 2

I. Before You Begin.................................................................................................................................................... 2

II. Important Note:....................................................................................................................................................... 2

Reverse Osmosis Filtration........................................................................................................................................... 2

I. Overview................................................................................................................................................................... 2

II. Feed Water Conditions......................................................................................................................................... 2

Installing Inlet Fitting...................................................................................................................................................... 3

I. Kitchen Diverter Valve............................................................................................................................................ 3

II. ¾” Garden Tap Adaptor........................................................................................................................................ 3

III. Washing Machine Block Adaptor....................................................................................................................... 3

IV. Connecting Tubing Using Compression Fittings............................................................................................. 4

System Installation/Start-Up......................................................................................................................................... 4

I. Pre-Flushing............................................................................................................................................................. 4

II. Tubing Connections............................................................................................................................................... 4

III. Initial Start-Up........................................................................................................................................................ 4

IV. Using the System................................................................................................................................................. 5

V. After Use & Storage.............................................................................................................................................. 5

VI. Long Periods of no use ....................................................................................................................................... 5

Maintenance.................................................................................................................................................................... 5

I. Sanitation ................................................................................................................................................................. 5

II. Replacement Parts................................................................................................................................................ 5

III. Replacement Filters ............................................................................................................................................. 5

IV. Testing Filters ....................................................................................................................................................... 6

Troubleshooting.............................................................................................................................................................. 6

Replacement Filters & Parts....................................................................................................................................... 10

Diagrams ....................................................................................................................................................................... 10

WARNING:

For correct operation of this appliance, it is essential to observe the manufacturer’s instructions.

I. Before You Begin

Quick Connect Fittings: If you come across a push-fit fitting, you need to firmly push the tubing into the

opening until you feel a “click” which signifies that the tubing has pushed through the internal O-ring and is

seated correctly. If leaking occurs, it may be due to roughly cut tubing OR the tubing is not pushed in far

enough. To remove tubing from push-fit fittings, depress the floating collet (shown in below photo), then pull

the tubing out.

NOTE: You will need to remove the Blue/White plug from the end of the outlet line marked

“Drinking Water”. Use the above steps to remove this plug. Do not discard the plug as it is used to

seal the drinking water line between use to prevent bacterial contamination.

II. Important Note:

Laws and regulations prevent us from wet-testing these filtration systems prior to sending them out.

Therefore, during assembly of these systems they are not pressure tested so it is possible to have a small

leak in a connection (which is simply fixed by re-seating the tubing or tightening a fitting). As the filters are

dry packed, the systems will require flushing before first use – Our systems purposely have the inlet filter

disconnected from the membrane so that you can do an initial flush of the pre filters to prevent fouling the

membrane with carbon fines. When first flushing the unit – remember that this tubing is disconnected and

should be aimed into a sink/bucket during the flushing process. When flushing is finished – re-connect the

tubing to the inlet of the membrane housing (Screw Cap End).

Reverse Osmosis Filtration

I. Overview

The Reverse Osmosis Membrane is the workhorse of any RO system. It is constructed from a wrapped

semi-permeable membrane material that uses pressure to separate impurities such as ions, minerals and

other larger molecules from the water, carrying them to waste.

*Reverse Osmosis membranes do not have a litre Capacity for filter replacements due to the variables that

can make the filter life vary significantly. This is mostly due to the water quality. The most accurate way to

test a RO membrane for effectiveness is to use a TDS Meter. TDS meters measure the total dissolved

solids in ppm in the water. To test your membrane, get a baseline reading out of your tap (unfiltered water)

and then compare that to a reading directly off the membrane (disconnect the tube before it goes into the

post filter cartridge). You can expect to get a difference of approx. 90-98% between the readings which

indicate that the membrane is functioning correctly. If this % is beginning to drop below 90% it suggests

that the RO membrane requires replacement

II. Feed Water Conditions

•Pressure: 50 - 100 psi

•TDS: <1,000 mg/L

•Hardness: <250mg/L

•Iron: <0.02

•Manganese: <0.01

•Temperature: 1°C - 26°C

Installing Inlet Fitting

I. Kitchen Diverter Valve

This fitting adapts to most kitchen taps that have either a 22mm Male Thread or a 24mm Female Thread.

There are some taps on the market that are not compatible with diverter valves so please check before

purchase. Firstly, unscrew the aerator from your tap. If this exposes a male thread, simply screw the

diverter valve straight onto the tap (ensure the black rubber washer is inside the valve). Usually hand

tightening is sufficient but gripping tools may be required depending on the tap. NOTE: The knurled section

of the diverter valve (top swivel ring) is the part that will tighten, you must tighten this to the tap, not the

whole valve. You will know if the diverter has sealed on the washer if you will be able to swivel the valve

from side to side but you should feel some resistance. If the valve swivels freely and does not feel secure –

you may not have added the black washer, the tap thread may be too long (in which case, you can double

up using the existing washer from the aerator you just removed) or it has not been tightened enough at the

knurled section. If you need to use the thread adaptor to install to a female threaded tap, install the adaptor

into the diverter valve first, then install it onto the tap.

The Diverter Valve is designed to replace your existing aerator so should be left installed permanently.

Below is an example graphic. The tubing is usually supplied connected to the valve but there are

instructions below showing this process if required.

II. ¾” Garden Tap Adaptor

The garden tap adaptor is simple,

just screw it onto an outdoor tap ¾” thread

III. Washing Machine Block Adaptor

Similar principle to the Kitchen Diverter Valve but this time, you firstly turn off the cold water to your

washing machine (lay a towel down for water leakage). Using either your hands or a pair of gripping tools,

slowly unscrew the washing machine hose which will begin to leak water due to static pressure. Install the

laundry block (large Chrome Fitting) in place (ensure that the washers are used so it seals). If you find that

the thread on the adaptor is not long enough – remove one of the blocks and steal the washer (only 1 block

is required, 2 are supplied for this reason) – doubling up the washer is usually enough to provide an

adequate seal. You do not need to use thread tape to do the above steps.

Once the block is securely installed, use standard white plumbers’ tape to wrap the male thread of the

small inline valve supplied with the adaptor – you will need to wrap around 8 – 10 times. Carefully screw

the valve into the female port on the adaptor using a shifter/spanner until firmly installed. While the valve is

in the ‘off’ positing (90° angle to the water flow), slowly turn the cold water back on and check for leaks.

IV. Connecting Tubing Using Compression Fittings

Compression fittings are used in both the Kitchen Diverter Valve & the Washing Machine Adaptor. Rather

than an o-ring seal with teeth (like the quick connect fittings), compression fittings crimp the tubing around a

stem to seal the water, the compression ring then prevents the tubing from being removed. Inserting the

tubing over the stem of the compression fitting can sometimes be difficult as the tubing needs to stretch

over it, if you are having trouble, you can run the end of the tubing under warm water (not hot) to help

soften the tubing. The below diagram demonstrates how this it to be installed.

System Installation/Start-Up

I. Pre-Flushing

As previously mentioned above, the portable units are assembled with the inlet filter disconnected from the

membrane to allow pre-flushing. To pre-flush the inlet filter, firstly plug the tubing joining the inlet valve to

the inlet port of the system. Turn on the inlet feed water to maximum, this will flush the pre filter at high

pressure to clear out any carbon fines. The water will run black and cloudy for a few moments, shut off the

tap and give the filter a shake (To stir up the media) and repeat a few times until the water runs consistently

clear.

Note: This process can also be done to the other inline filters in the system, for example the alkaline filters.

It is recommended (but not required) to remove each filter (1 at a time so you don’t lose track of filter

position) and repeat the above step to clear the fines out of each filter. Flushing filters directly off the mains

pressure will greatly decrease the flushing time at the initial start-up stage.

II. Tubing Connections

Following the above flushing process, check your systems fittings and tubing to ensure everything looks

sound; there are no kinks, damaged fittings or tubing that is not plugged in. Connect the inlet filter to the

inlet side of the membrane (screw cap end). You should have 2 lengths of tubing that are only connected at

one end, these lines will be your drain line (waste water) which is connected to the inline valve marked

‘Drain Line’ of Flow 200/300/400. The other line will be the drinking water line which is the finished product

water. Once all tubes are accounted for and everything is in order, start-up can commence.

III. Initial Start-Up

For the first run, allow both the waste and drinking water lines to flow to waste into a sink. Turn on the inlet

water to the system on full pressure/flow. The Drain line will begin to flow almost straight away which is

normal, you may notice some slight discolouration. The drinking water line will take longer to begin flowing,

this is due to the water slowly making its way through the membrane filling the filter cannisters as it goes. 3

Stage systems generally start flowing within a few minutes where the 6 stage units can take over 5 minutes

for the water to make its way through the unit. This will only happen on first use until the system is wetted,

additional start ups should begin flowing relatively quickly from when the inlet it turned on.

If you have completed flushing of ALL inline filters as mentioned in the Pre-Flushing Section, you will only

need to run your filter system for about 30 – 60 minutes before it is ok to be used. If you did not pre-flush

the post membrane filters, you will need to let the unit run for a few hours to adequately flush the filters.

This is because mains pressure flushed quickly, but if you run water post membrane, it is much slower and

does not stir up the filters as vigorously.

If you are using a system that has a post alkaline filter, you may notice the pH of the water will be very high

(9.5 – 10.5) while the system is new. This is normal and will slowly reduce with further flushing. High

Alkaline Systems create hydrogen which will show a very high pH (10 +/-) when it is initially filtered which is

normal, once you let the water sit for a period of time the hydrogen will vent and the pH will begin to lower.

pH and Alkalinity are different things.

IV. Using the System

Once the filters have settled and it is ready for use, run the drain line into the sink/drain. Your drinking water

tube will then run into a container or tank to fill with fresh filtered water. It is recommended to keep the

container you are filling in a water safe area – for example on the sink top in case of spillage (or more

commonly – if it overflows because you forget you turned it on) so you don’t come back to a flooded room.

A handy tip is to use a timer the first time you use the unit and note how long it takes to fill your desired

storage container.

V. After Use & Storage

When the system is no longer in use, replace the blue plug back into the drinking water line to prevent

bacteria. The drain line can be left open as there is no chance of backflow or contamination on this line.

The system can then be stored away in a cabinet – if you have a plastic container or tub to put it in it is

ideal to prevent any water leaks.

VI. Long Periods of no use

If the system has been in storage for longer than a few days, it is best to run the unit for 15 minutes before

collecting the water. Bacterial contamination is not usually an issue with intermittent use but is possible

after over a month of storage. If there are any smells, tastes or changes to the water quality it is best to

replace the filter cartridges and start fresh to avoid any possible issues.

Maintenance

I. Sanitation

Due to the ‘open circuit’ nature of the portable systems, it is possible for bacterial contamination to occur

over time. Tubing may need to be sanitised or replaced along with the fittings.

The membrane housing (Which is one of the only parts that doesn’t get replaced) can be cleaned using

warm soapy water and then soaked in diluted HydroSil-ULTRA with water. Rinse off the excess HydroSil

and then re-connect.

II. Replacement Parts

As mentioned above, tubing and fittings should be periodically replaced to ensure the system remains

clean and functional. There is no set time frame for these items to be replaced, rather you can monitor

them ongoing and if they appear to be at their end of life, change them. As a general guideline, Tubing

(inlet, outlet and drain) should be replaced every 2 years. Fittings should be replaced every 3 years (due to

wear and tear).

III. Replacement Filters

As portable systems are made up from predominantly inline filter cartridges, when you replace the filters

you are getting almost a completely new ‘system’ as only the tubing and fittings + some other things

remain. Filters have a varying life time but generally can be replaced with the following principle; Pre filters

(Pre-Membrane) every 6 months. Post Filters (Post-Membrane) Every 12 months. The membrane itself has

a largely varying life time. It may last anywhere between 1 and 4 years depending on usage, water quality

and age.

IV. Testing Filters

Reverse Osmosis membranes have a variance in their filter life and this is affected by several things

including water quality, usage, temperature and filter maintenance. As they are the workhorse of the

system, they are the most important filters to monitor and keep maintained.

To measure the effectiveness of the RO membrane you will need a TDS/EC test meter. Draw a sample of

tap water (to get your base reading), then collect a sample of water directly off the membrane outlet (before

it goes through any other filters). This is your ‘pure’ water. To calculate the membrane effectiveness, you

will need to subtract the percentage of contaminant reduction from the feed water. E.g. Feed Water

200mg/L TDS – RO Membrane removes 97% (+/-) Therefore, 200 – 97% = 6mg/L. Factors can influence

the final TDS of the water and it will depend upon what is in the feed water to begin with. A membrane is

deemed to be ‘expired’ if the overall reduction rate is <90% (as a general rule). To apply this to the above

example, 200 – 90% = 20mg/L. So, if your test reading was approaching 20mg/L or higher, it would be time

to change the membrane.

Troubleshooting

Problem

Possible Cause

Solution

Water Leaking Between fitting

and tubing.

Unseated Tube

Check all tubing connections by

firmly pushing them into the

fitting. Check that there are no

kinks or any obvious issues. If

the problem persists, remove the

tubing and check for a clean cut

with no burs. Push the tubing

back in and try again. If this does

not work please contact

customer support.

Water Leaking Between Fitting &

Filter

Fitting not tight enough /

Insufficient Thread Tape /

Damaged Fitting or Filter

If the fitting appears to be not

fully tightened, gradually tighten

the fitting to see If this fixes the

leak. If this does not work,

remove the fitting and check for

any signs of damage either on

the fitting or the female port of

the housing. If there are no

obvious signs of damage, apply

white plumbers’ tape. Use 6

rounds for 1/8” fittings

(membrane housing fittings) and

8 rounds for all other ¼” fittings.

Water Is Leaking from My

Diverter Valve

1. Damaged/Missing Washer

2. Not Tight Enough

3. Thread is too Short

1. Check the diverter valve to see

if the washer is inside, if it is

damaged it may need replacing –

this is a common size washer

and can be purchased from most

hardware/plumbing stores.

2. If the diverter valve is loose (or

you can easily swivel the fitting

without resistance, the fitting is

not tightened enough. It may feel

like you can’t tighten it anymore

and it just keeps spinning but if

you use a gripping tool (multi

grips) to grab the collar of the

fitting and use your hand to hold

the valve itself steady, you will be

able to further tighten the valve.

The valve is tight enough when

you feel light to moderate

resistance when trying to swivel

the valve.

3. If you screw the valve on and

the collar ‘bottom’s out’ on the

tap, you may need to add

another washer (to bulk up the

space).

The unit is not producing any

water?

1. Water Supply is off or

disconnected.

2. Pre-Filter has a blockage

3. Insufficient Water Pressure

4. Blue Plug Still Installed

1. Turn on the water supply and

ensure there are no obstructions

to the water flow.

2. Disconnect the tube between

the membrane and pre-filter (like

the pre-flushing instructions) and

run water at full pressure to see if

water comes out of the filter. – If

the water does not come out (or

is very weak pressure) the filter

may need to be changed.

3. Reverse Osmosis required

50psi (Minimum) to operate –

70psi+ is ideal. If you have lower

than 50psi pressure this unit may

not be suitable for you. Low

Pressure Membranes are

available for an additional charge

that will work down to 20psi.

4. Remove the blue plug from the

drinking water line.

Water is coming out slowly

Reverse Osmosis

RO filtration is a slow process,

depending on the system you

have purchased, you will only get

about 8 – 12L of water per hour.

I am getting much more waste

water than filtered water

1. Water Pressure

2. Water Quality

3. Blockage

1. Our units are designed to run

at approx. 1:1 – 1:1.5 waste

water ratio at 70 psi. If your

pressure is lower than 70 psi, the

production rate may decrease

and cause more drain water than

filtered water.

2. If your inlet water quality is

poor and contains higher salts

and hardness the filter may

produce lest water than the

specified amount.

3. If you have good pressure,

and average water quality it is

possible there is a small

blockage somewhere in the

system. Try to follow the water

flow along the system,

disconnecting 1 tube at a time to

try and pinpoint where the water

is ‘stopping’

High pH Reading

1. Alkaline Filter

2. GAC Filter

3. Insufficient Testing Equipment

1. Alkaline Filters are designed to

increase the pH of the water.

When the filter is new it will be

high but will soon settle to the

advertised levels after adequate

flushing.

2. If you have a post GAC filter

(Carbon), this will naturally

increase the pH of the water. pH

is the measure of Hydrogen in

the water and this hydrogen will

vent off the water if you leave it

to stand and the pH will then

drop back down to the normal

level.

3. pH testing equipment can

range from a cheap test pen right

up to lab grade equipment.

Before coming to a conclusion on

pH issues, it is best to ensure the

equipment used to measure the

pH of the RO water is of high

standards and suitable for

reading pH levels in low EC

water (i.e. The guy at the pool

shop is not going to cut it). We

have access to high quality

testing equipment and frequently

test our units and conduct

research. If you feel that there is

an issue with your pH, please

Strange taste to the water (New

System)

1. High Alkaline Filter

2. Residue

3. Contamination

1. If you are using an alkaline

filter system, the unit requires

adequate flushing before first

use. Usually all taste is gone

within a week of use. This taste

is normal and in most cases is

your body adjusting to the high

pH water (which some people

can describe as a slight metallic

taste).

2. The filters are dry packed, the

carbons, alkaline filters will have

‘fines’ on them as they are

granular medias, this will go

away with flushing. The

membrane has a food grade

preserve inside it to prevent

contamination during storage,

this will also flush away quickly.

3. Bacterial contamination is

highly unlikely, but not

impossible. If there is a strong

‘foul smell’ or organic taste to the

water, it is possible that there is

some form of contamination.

can rectify (or diagnose) the

problem if there is one present.

The TDS Is Higher than the inlet

water (or the same).

1. New Filter

2. Alkaline Filter

1. While filters are new, it is

normal for the TDS to be

elevated while the system is

flushing. Continue flushing the

system & contact support if the

high TDS persists.

3. Expired Filters

4. Mixed Up Drain Line and

Drinking Line

2. Alkaline filters will naturally

increase the TDS of the water,

especially when new. If you have

low TDS water already, it is

possible for the TDS level out of

the alkaline filter to be higher

than your inlet water. This is

because you are adding minerals

back into the water therefore

increasing the TDS and alkalinity.

3. If the filters have not been

changed as per the

recommendations, it is likely that

the increased TDS is due to the

filters needing replacing.

4. This is common as sometimes

the lines may be mixed up. Make

sure that the tubing connected to

the ‘Drain Line’ flow restrictor is

being run to waste, do not use

this water for drinking. Your

drinking water line should be

marked with either ‘outlet’,

‘Drinking Water’ or ‘Aquarium

Water’.

Hot Water has been run through

the filter

Reverse Osmosis units are

designed for cold water only. If

you accidentally run hot water

through the membrane for a

short period of time, it may still

undamaged. What will happen in

the pore size in the membrane

will expand and allow more

contamination through. Run the

unit on cold water for 15 minutes

and test to make sure there is no

issues.

Replacement Filters & Parts

Filter Cartridges:

GT6-21S Inline Activated Carbon Filter (Pre-Filter) 6 Months

“ “ “ “ “ “ (Post-Filter) 12 Months

GT6-32 Puretron T300 Hydrogen Rich Cartridge 12 Months

GT6-10 Inline FAR Infrared Cartridge 1 – 2 Years

GT13-59-ALP 50GPD Reverse Osmosis Membrane 1 – 4 years

(TDS Testing Required)

Fittings:

GT10-22LS ¼” Male x ¼” Tube Fitting

GT10-23LS ¼” Male Elbow x ¼” Tube Fitting

GT10-2LS 1/8” Male x ¼” Tube Fitting

GT10-13LS 1/8” Male Elbow x ¼” Tube Fitting

Valves:

GT25-3S1/4 Kitchen Tap Diverter Valve ¼”

GT25-15 Male x Male Thread Adapter 22 – 24mm

GT13-1S 200CC Flow Restrictor ¼”

Housings:

GT8-31 1812 Membrane Housing

Diagrams

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