Fluidart Pinnacle Manuel utilisateur

OWNER’S MANUAL

Pinnacle

Filter

by Fluidart®

Congratulations on making the smartchoice!

Fluidart Technologies filtration systems are designed

with the pond owner in mind. Our filtration systems

are unparalleled in quality, performance, ease of

operation, and maintenance. We are certain that you

will have many years of happy KOI keeping with our

system.

or 405-843-9060

Fluidart Technologies

Bead Filter

Owners Manual

Challenger Internals

Laterals

Bead Pack

Sludge Drain

Multiport

Valve

Spinner And

Backwash

Laterals

Drain Plug

Pump

Filter

Vortex

Tank

Suggested installation of

Fluidart Filtration System

Swing check valve installed below water

level in an easily accessed location will

make keeping the pump and Turbovortex

primed much more easy.

Swing check

valve

Introduction to Bead Filtration

How long have bead filters been in use?

Bead filters have been around since the mid-70's and got their start

In the food fish industry. Bead filters have been tested at various universities

around the country, including Louisiana State University and Langston

University in Oklahoma. In these tests, bead filters out performed

other filtration systems, when considering both biofiltration and clarification.

What is the theory behind bead filter operation?

Bead filters accomplishtwo goals, one being water polishing (solids capture) and the other being

biofiltration. Other filtration systems accomplish these goals, but are muchlarger and more difficult to

clean. The advantage of the bead filter is that it

provides a home for beneficial bacteria with high surface area for a large colony

per cubic foot and fine particulate straining all within the same vessel. The other

big advantage the bead filters have over other types of filters is that they are much

easier to clean. This makes the hobby of KOI or pond keeping much more

enjoyable, with less work involved in maintaining a healthy environment for the

fish.

How does a bead filter perform Mechanical Filtration?

Mechanicalfiltration or clarification is the process of removing suspended solids

from water. Suspended solids in arecirculating system are generally smallparticles

of undigested food, bacteria, andalgae. These solids tend to reduce the clarity of

water and cause problems in consuming tremendous amounts of oxygen, also needed

by our beloved fish. Bead filters remove solids fromwater by different mechanisms.

Physical straining is probably the most dominant mechanismremoving larger

particles (>50 microns). Finer particles (<20 microns) are removed at a lower rate

by a process called bioabsorption. The particles are capturedby bacterial biofilm

on the surface ofthe bead. Studies show that bead filters capture 100% of particles

>50 microns and48% of particles in the 5-10 micron range per pass. The more

passes the more solids captured.

**Important**in order for the bead filter to perform FINE micronstraining it

MUST be fully colonized with bacteria. Depending on the temperature this can

take up to 4-6 weeks, at temps. above 60-65 degrees F.

How does a bead filter perform Biofiltration?

Biofiltration depends on the establishment of a colony of bacteria on the surface of

the beads large enoughto convert dissolved toxic nitrogenous waste to harmless

compounds. When the bacteria are given the proper environment, they grow in a

thin biofilm on the surface of each bead. Each cubic foot of beads contain about

600,000 beads. This is one of the secrets of the beadfilters success--high surface

area per cubic foot for a large bacterial colony per cubic foot of filter media. The

two most commontypes of bacteria are, Nitrosomonas which is responsible for the

break down of ammonia in the system. The next is Nitrobacter, which is responsible

for the breakdown ofnitrite into relatively harmless nitrate.

**Important** in order for the bead filter to perform Biofiltration the beads

must be colonized with alarge enough colony to handle the load of dissolved

ammonia presented to it. This may take up to 4-6 weeks at temps. above 60-65

degrees. Until the colony has grown large enough, the pond owner MUST be

responsible for monitoring the levels of ammonia and nitrites in the pond water and

taking appropriate measures to correct dangerously high levels.

How do you size a bead filter?

When we start talking bead filter size, usually the first thing said is "I have a ___

gallon pond. What size filter do I need?" This just gets the conversationrolling.

The next question should be, "How many fish do you plan to keep in the pond?".

Fish have to eat and what it really boils downto is how many pounds of food is the

pond keeper going to feed per day. The larger the fish load and the more food that

will be fed, the larger the filter needs to be. A good rule of thumb when dealing

with bead filters is this: 1cu. ft. of beads will handle the solids capture and

nitrificationof up to one lb. of foodper day. 100lbs offish fed at 1% body weight

or 50lbs of fish fedat 2% body weight. This is feeding 35% protein food. Water

quality and clarity can be achieved by adjusting feeding rates and/or stocking

densities.

What pump do I use with my filter?

Almost any out of pond pump will work witha FLUIDART FILTER. 2 speed

pumps have proven to be favorites among many bead filter owners. 2 speed pumps

have the versatility of running onlow for normalfiltration and saving energy

dollars, while using high for backwashing. High is also great to have when you are

having friends over andyou want your waterfallto really roar!

Pinnacle Filter

Installation Instructions

1. Remove the filter fromthe box and locate the plastic bag containing the top cap

and open wrench.

2. Inspect the internals for any shipping damage. You will note that there are

plastic zip lock bands on the internals to hold them in place during shipping.

Cut and discard these as they are not needed.

3. Position the filter at the site of installation. Be sure that this is a level site with

full access to all sides of the filter, as you will need to use the sludge drain on a

regular basis and may eventually need to use the tank drain valve. We also

recommend that the filter be installed on a pad of some type to prevent settling.

4. Attach the multiport valves. Be sure that the "O" rings of the valve are properly

positioned. ** Important ** Hand tighten the unions, do not use a wrench as

you may over tighten the union and crack the outer ring.

5. Make pipe connections. The pressure (pump) line, returnline, and the waste line

connections are clearly labeled on the valve. **Important** Installa swing check

valve on the suction line from the pond to the pump. Install this below water

level and you will have much less trouble priming your pump. See ideal

installation diagram at the front of the manual. We also recommend that the

Wastewater is plumbed away from the site to prevent settling from moist

ground.

6. Fill the tank about one half full of water. Now pour the beads into the tank from

the top opening. When all the beads have beenplaced in the tank, screw the top

cap into place and tighten with the wrench provided.

7. Set the multiport valve to the filter position and open the air relief valve at the top

of the filter. Turn onthe pump and when water sprays out the air relief valve,

close it. Your filter is now operational.

8. Insert the section of PVC pipe that came with the filter into the upper union of

the spring check valve for the blower attachment. Glue this union. Then slide the

blower down onto the pipe and secure with setscrew. (Do Not Glue). When you

turn on the blower, the spring check valve will open, allowing pressurized air to

enter the filter tank for bead agitation. Only one multiport will come with a

blower attachment and can be attached to either set of bulkhead fittings.

* Special note * When lubricating connections, gaskets, or valves, use only silicone

based lubricants. Do Not use petroleum-based lubricants. Magic lube works well

and can be obtained at most pool and spa stores.

Pinnacle Filter

Operating Instructions

Now that your filter is installed and running there are a few simple things that you need to

know and understand.

FILTER MATURATION

This has been stated earlier, but is very important. It takes 4-6 weeks of operation at

temperatures above 60-65 degrees F. before there is a large enough colony of bacteria to

handle the bioconversion of ammonia and fine particulate straining. During this transition

period, the pond owner must watch the ammonia and nitrite levels in the pond. If they

become dangerously high, steps should be taken to correct the problem, such as a water

change. Also during this period fine particulate straining will not be fully mature and you

may notice your water being less polished than you would like. Both of the above issues will

improve with time and the growth of the bacterial colony. This will occur with any type of

bead filter used.

ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT STERILIZERS

Bead filters will remove suspended particles down to 5-10 microns in size.

However, some algae particles are smaller than 5 microns and will not be removed by the

beads. These tiny algae cells will give the water a green cast and affect the clarity of the

water. If the pond owner wants crystal clear swimming pool clarity, then a UV-light is

needed. UV-lights will also remove many harmful bacteria and decrease the suspended

bacterial counts in the water. We recommend the use of UV-lights for the above reasons.

BACKWASH INSTRUCTIONS

When you first start up your filter, we recommend that you let it run for two weeks before

you perform your first backwash. After that, once a week during the warm season should

be all that is needed. During the winter months backwashing can be reduced to as little as

once every 2-3 weeks. To perform a backwash, do the following:

Pre-Backwash Instructions

1. Open Sludge Drain for 15-20 seconds with Pump ON, then close drain.

2. Turn Pump OFF.

3. Turn Multiport to Backwash position.

4. Turn Pump ON for 10-15 seconds.

5. Turn Pump OFF.

Backwash Instructions

1. Move Multiport to Rinse position.

2. Turn the blower on for 1-2 minutes.*

3. Open Air Relief valve.

4. Turn Pump ON for 10-15 seconds.

5. Turn Pump OFF.

6. Move Multiport to Backwash position.

7. Turn Pump on until water runs clear.

8. Turn Pump OFF.

9. Repeat Steps 1-8 as needed.**

* While the blower is agitating the beads you should be able to hear the beads hitting the

inside of the tank. It should sound like individual beads ad not clumps. Running the

blower longer than 1-2 minutes at a time can cause overheating and damage the blower.

Note: Never run blower and pump at the same time.

** To achieve a thorough backwashing, you may need to repeat steps 1-8 several

times.Note: Be aware that large fluctuations in water temperatures from replacing too

much water too quickly can cause stress and/or death in fish.

Post Backwash Instructions

1. Move Multiport to Rinse position.

2. Turn Pump ON.

3. Open Sludge Drain until water runs clear.

4. Turn Pump OFF.

5. Move Multiport to Filter position.

6. Turn the Pump ON.

7. Add Dechlorinator to Pond as needed.

WATER MISER SLUDGE DRAIN.

The Water Miser Sludge drain allows a low volume backwash if water is expensive, in short

supply, or you have a low volume pond. To use your Water Miser Sludge drain, do the

following:

1. Turn off your pump and move the Multiport valve to the rinse position.

2. Turn on the blower and allow it to run for 2-3 minutes. Now open the Water

Miser Sludge drain valve with the blower running. You will notice water

being forced out of the sludge drain. Allow the blower to evacuate all the

water from the tank.

3. Now turn off the blower, close the sludge drain valve, and open the air release

valve at the top of the filter. With the multiport valve still in the rinse

position turn on the pump. You will be filling the tank with water at this point

and you will notice air rushing out of the air release valve at the top of the

tank. Whenwater exits the air release valve then the tank is full. Now turn

off the pump.

4. The tank is again filled with water. Now repeat steps #2 and 3 above. This

will agitate the beads and force the dirty water out of the tank. You can

repeat this step as many times as you would like. You are using only the

volume of the tank minus the volume of the beads to wash the beads each

time. This will use much less water than a hydraulic backwash.

5. When you are done with the above steps, fill the tank as above and do a rinse

on the beads. Run the water until clear and then go back to filter mode. You

are done and save many gallons of water.

*Note* If you leave your filter unbackwashed for two or more weeks, it is a

good idea to perform an extra long blower treatment on the beads.

*Word of Caution* If you leave you filter unbackwashed for extended periods of

time, and you live in an area with relatively soft water, you may want to buffer

your pond water. The bacteria in the filter can consume enough alkalinity in the

waterto cause a dangerous pH drop. Total alkalinity should be kept above

80ppm to avoid these potentially dangerous shifts. To increase alkalinity, add

sodium bicarbonate, do a water change, or add a commercially prepared pH

Buffer.

INTERNAL INSPECTION

We recommend that twice a season you inspect the output laterals, backwash

laterals, and the condition of the beads.

1. Backwash your filter then turn off the pumps and leave the valve in

the backwash position. Also open the sludge drain valve and the drain

plug at base of the filter.

2. Open the air release valve at the top of the filter. You will notice air

rushing into the filter. This represents water draining out of the filter.

3. When air stops being sucked into the filter, most of the water has

drainedout of the filter. Using the Hexagonal wrench that came with

the filterunscrew the top cap and remove.

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