Electro EVOLUTION Instructions d'installation

EVOLUTION Pool Heater

Installation & Operating Manual

www.elecro.co.uk

ENGLISH

Important Notes!

Thank you for purchasing the EVO direct electric swimming pool heater

manufactured in England to the highest standards.

To ensure your new heater will give years of trouble free service please

carefully read the following instructions. Incorrect installation will

aect your warranty.

Do not discard this manual, please retain for future reference.

Product Overview

Fig 1.

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Positioning

Your heater should be horizontally or vertically sited allowing sucient

space for pipe connections and wiring, it should be screw xed securely to

a rm base or wall.

NOTE: See gure 2 for details of the foot arrangement when securing

to the wall or oor.

The heater should be installed at a low point in the ltration system.

It should be positioned downstream (after) of the lter and upstream

(before) of any dosing or other water treatment plant. (see g.3)

NOTE : If the ow direction is reversed (explained later in this

booklet) the heater must remain sited after the lter.

Factory set oor

mount ‘Foot position’

To reset for wall

mount option,

undo the bolts and

re-assemble in the

vertical position as

shown.

Floor mount ‘Foot position’

Wall mount ‘Foot position’

Fig 2.

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Flow switch

at top

For vertical wall

mounting water

must always enter

at the bottom

Fig 3.

Fig 4.

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Pipe Work

It is essential that the pipe work connecting to and from the heater

has a minimum bore (internal diameter) of 1¼” (32mm). To assist correct air

purging and to ensure the heater remains completely full of water during

operation, the return pipe which carries the water back to the pool must

incorporate a safety loop or ‘kick-up’ in the pipe as close as possible to the

heater (see g 4)

NOTE: When coupling to a exible pipe a safety loop can simply be

created by routing the pipe up and over an obstacle. Remember to

use pipe clips to securely fasten all hose connections.

Weather Protection

The heater must be installed within a dry weather proof enclosure.

Caution! If the heater is not used during winter months it must be drained to

prevent frost damage.

Electrical Connection

The heater must be installed in accordance with the country / regional

requirements & regulations. In any event the work must be carried out by

a qualied electrician, who will provide a certicate of conformity upon

completion of the work. The power supply must be tted with a RCD. If

required your electrician may replace the supplied cable entry gland with a

larger size to secure the cable powering the heater, this will not aect your

warranty if carried out by a qualied electrician.

Cable section: This should be calculated at 5-amp / mm for distances up

to 20 metres (these sections are indicative and should be checked and

adapted if necessary for cable lengths over 20 metres.

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Remove Access Cover

to make the electrical

connections

(Qualied electricians only)

Fig 5.

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Power Requirements

Flow Requirements

Your heater is factory set to accept input water ow entering on the left

and exiting on the right, this can be reversed by rotating the ow switch

180 degrees (ie:½ turn, see g 6)

WARNING! The ow switch paddle can be damaged when reversing the ow

direction if it is lifted by more than 5mm from its housing and turned with

force. If the ow switch has been rotated it is important to ensure that it is

nally locked in the correct orientation perpendicular (at right angles) to the

ow of water.

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Power

Output

Voltage

(V) Amp

2 - kW 230 9

3 - kW 230 13

4.5 - kW 230 20

6 - kW 230 27

9 - kW 230 40

12 - kW 230 53

15 - kW 230 66

18 - kW 230 79

3 Phase

Power

Output

400 V Star /

230 V Delta Amp

6 - kW 400 / 230V 9 / 15

9 - kW 400 / 230V 13 / 23

12 - kW 400 / 230V 18 / 31

15 - kW 400 / 230V 22 / 38

18 - kW 400 / 230V 26 / 46

24 - kW 400 35

To reverse ow: Loosen cap

and rotate Flow switch by

180 degrees as shown.

Always ensure the arrow

marked on the plastic ow

switch body is in the same

direction as the water ow

Factory set ow

Optional reverse

 o w

Flow

Fig 6.

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The ow rate of water into the heater must not exceed 17,000 litres per

hour (3,740 UK gallons/hour) A higher ow rate will require the installation

of a bypass to prevent damage to the heater elements. The heater will not

operate unless the following minimum ow rates are achieved ie:

1,000 litres / hour (220 UK gallons/hour) for 2 ~ 6-kW heaters and

4,000 litres / hour (880 UK gallons/hour) for 9 ~ 24-kW heaters.

Water Quality

The water quality MUST be within the following limits:

PH 6.8 - 8.0

TA (Total alkalinity) 80—140ppm (parts per million)

Chloride Content MAX: 150 mg/litre

Free Chlorine: 2.0 mg/litre

Total Bromine: Max 4.5 mg/litre

TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) / Calcium hardness 200— 1,000ppm

Stainless Steel heaters are NOT suitable for use on saline (salt) water pools.

ONLY heaters with titanium heating elements are suitable for use on saline

(salt) pools.

Water chemistry is complicated if in doubt seek expert advise.

Operating Instructions

Upon completion of the installation, run the water-circulating pump to

purge the system & heater of air (i.e. Remove any trapped air in the

system & heater). TIP: You can encourage air out of the heater ow tube by

gently elevating the exit port of the heater when the pump is running.

On initial power up of the heater the amber light should illuminate.

The heater will only switch ‘On’ (red light indicator illuminated) and the

amber light switching ‘O’ when the following criteria are met ie:

Water circulating pump is ‘On’ delivering in excess of the minimum ow•

rate of water (see ow requirement information)

Temperature set point dial is set to a higher value than that of the water•

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Q: How long will it take to heat my pool?

A: Assuming no heat losses, and a heater sized in the ratio 1.5-kW

per 1,000 UK gallons of water (4,545-litres): it will take 2 days of

continuous running to raise the temperature of a pool from tap

temperature to swimming temperature. Heat loss will slow the heating

process, particularly during periods of cold weather, hence the higher

the water temperature is to be maintained above average ambient air

temperature, the slower the heating process will become.

The only inuencing factors are the level of insulation and the location

of the pool with regard to wind shelter.

Useful advice: To reduce running costs and speed up the heating process;

Insulate the pool wherever possible. A oating solar cover is an essential

minimum to retain heat.

Quick Function Test

Observe the main electricity meter when the heater is on (ie: red light

‘On’) and then observe it again when the heater is in the standby mode

(ie: amber light ‘On’) The test should show that the meter is recording

more electricity being used by the heater when the red light is ‘On’. It is

impossible for an electric heater to waste energy, if it is drawing power

then that power will be turned into heat that will be transferred to the

water.

Accurate Function Test

If a more accurate test is required to conrm that your heater is delivering

the specied heat output, two electricity meter readings will need to be

taken from the properties main electricity meter, with an exact one hour

interval (ie: take one meter reading and then a second reading exactly one

hour later) then by subtracting the rst reading from the second reading

the number of units (kilo watts kW) consumed can be calculated. Note that

your heater is also rated in kW hours.

The pool pump and heater will need to be running continuously during

the test (ie: with the heater red light ’On’) To avoid inaccurate results

when performing this test, it is important to refrain from using other high

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current consuming appliances in the property (such as tumble dryer,

showers, cookers etc). A large domestic pool pump of 1 horsepower will

draw less than 1kW in a one hour period. The conclusion of the test should

prove that for example a 6kW heater and a ½ horsepower pump will draw

between 6.3-kW ~ 6.5-kW in one hour. It is impossible for an electric heater

to waste energy, if it is drawing power then that power will be turned into

heat that will be transferred to the water.

Trouble Shooting

HEATER WILL NOT SWITCH FROM STANDBY (AMBER LIGHT ) TO ON

(RED LIGHT)

In most cases this will be the result of one of the following points not

being met.

Possible cause 1: The set point temperature has been achieved. To conrm

increase the set point value by turning the temperature set point dial to a value

greater than the current water temperature.

Possible cause 2: The ‘thermal safety cut out’ has tripped.

Remedy: Remove button cover and press red button to re-set (see g 7)

If a positive click is felt, the cause of the tripping must be investigated and

could be caused by a debris build-up or air pocket trapped inside the ow

tube of the heater.

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Fig 7.

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Possible cause 3: Insucient ow.

If using a cartridge lter: Conrm this by running the system with the

cartridge removed from your pump & lter unit, this will supply the heater

with the maximum ow rate your unit is capable of. If the heater then

switches ’On’ (ie: red light ’On’) a blocked cartridge can be conrmed to be

the cause. The cartridge should be cleaned or replaced.

If using a sand lter: Check the pressure indicator on your sand lter and

back wash if necessary.

NOTE: In some cases the thermal safety cut-out tripping and a low

ow rate can be linked ie: when a lter becomes choked air can be

drawn into the ltration system and become trapped inside the

heater so causing the thermostat to trip.

NO LIGHT APPEARS ON THE HEATER WHEN IT IS SWITCHED ’ON’

Possible cause: Power failure external to the heater

Remedy : Check any fuses, RCD or other switch components installed in

the supply cable. Note: the heater is not tted with a fuse.

THE FLOW TUBE DOES NOT FEEL WARM

Due to the high eciency of your electric heater no warmth should be

detectable from the ow tube of the heater.

The most likely causes of the ow tube feeling warm are:-

Possible cause 1: The heater has been positioned in direct sunlight.

Possible cause 2: An air pocket is trapped inside the heater particularly if

the tank feels warmer at the highest point of the tank (as air rises)

THE WATER ENTERING MY POOL DOES NOT FEEL MUCH WARMER

The temperature gain of the water after it has passed through the heater

will be directly proportional to the volume of water being pumped in

relationship to the power output of the heater.

For example: A 6-kW heater, when connected to a 4,000 litre / hour

pump, will produce a lift in temperature of approximately 1.2 °C (almost

undetectable to the human hand) however, as the water being heated is

re-circulated from a single body of water, the time required to heat it

remains unaected by the volume of ow. A popular misconception is that

slowing down the ow rate will speed up the heating process.

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