ELECRAFT KAT1 Manuel utilisateur

ELECRAFT KAT1 AUTOMATIC ANTENNA TUNER

Assembly and Operating Instructions

Introduction

The KAT1 internal automatic antenna tuner (ATU) allows nearly any random-length wire antenna to be

connected directly to the Elecraft K1 transceiver and used on one or more bands. The L-network

configuration can be used with coax-fed or end-fed wire antennas, or with balanced feedlines via a balun.

Unlike some internal auto-tuners, the KAT1 functions on receive as well as transmit. This provides an

increase in receive sensitivity and improves rejection of out-of-band signals.

The KAT1 uses latching relays to reduce current drain to nearly zero except when actually tuning. These

relays select appropriate combinations of inductance and capacitance, as well as either a capacitor-in or

capacitor-out L-network configuration. Tune-up is controlled by the KAT1's microprocessor, which also

supplies SWR or power information to be displayed on the K1's LCD. Once a match has been found,

matching parameters are saved so that the settings can be recalled immediately on any band change.

ATU parameters (L, C, SWR, etc.) can be viewed using the K1’s menu. Additional menu entries are

provided to do component-level troubleshooting all relays, inductors, and capacitors.

In addition to being one of the world’s smallest automatic antenna tuners, the KAT1 is very easy to build

and install. The KAT1 module plugs directly into the K1’s Filter board with no additional wiring. Gold

plated connectors and redundant connector pins are used to provide excellent reliability for field operation.

Specifications

L - C Ranges L: approx. 0-5 µH in 16 steps; C: approx. 0-300 pF in 32 steps

Network Type L-network (series L, shunt C); C switchable to transceiver or antenna side

Tuning time 1 to 8 seconds typical for initial tune-up; < 1/2 sec. to recall per-band settings

SWR Display 1.0:1 to 9.9:1

Current Drain Approx. 10-30 mA during TUNE; < 5 mA at all other times

Size 5.0" (L) x 1.8" (D) x 0.5" (H) (12.7 x 4.6 x 1.3 cm)

Caution: Some components in this kit can be damaged by static discharge. Before handling any

transistors or integrated circuits, always put on an anti-static wrist strap or touch any grounded, unpainted

metal surface.

Parts Inventory

The table below lists all parts in the kit. The K1 Owner's manual has photographs of similar parts.

Ref.

Description

Part No.

Qty

Capacitor, 10 pF, 500 V NPO disc

E530026

Capacitor, 22 pF, 500 V NPO disc

E530027

Capacitor, 39 pF, 500 V NPO disc

E530028

Capacitor, 82 pF, 500 V NPO disc

E530029

Capacitor, 150 pF, 500 V NPO disc (“151”)

E530030

C11, C12, C17

Capacitor, .001 µF, 25 V("102")

E530001

C13, C14, C16,

RF-C76

Capacitor, .01 µF, 25 V ("103")

E530009

C15

Capacitor, .047 µF, 25 V ("473")

E530025

C10

Capacitor, 100 pF, 200 V, NPO disc ("101")

E530034

Ceramic trimmer, 5-30 pF

E540001

D1, D2

Diode, 1N5711

E560004

Diode, 1N34A

E560000

FIL-J1

Conn., 3-pin female, 0.1” spcg., Samtec SSW-103-01-G-S

E620009

FIL-J2

Conn., 5x2 female, 0.1” spcg., Samtec SSW-105-01-G-D

E620045

K1-K10

DPDT latching relay

E640001

L1-L4

Toroidal inductor, T37-2 core (RED); see text

E680006

Conn., 3-pin male, .1" spcg., Samtec MTSW-103-22-G-S-420

E620046

Conn., 5x2 male, .1" spcg., Samtec MTSW-105-22-G-D-420

E620047

R1, R2

Trimmer potentiometer, 100K

E520001

Resistor, 100 ohms, 5%, 1/4-watt (brown-black-brown)

E500010

Resistor, 200 ohms, 5%, 1/4-watt (red-black-brown)

E500020

Resistor, 1 k, 5%, 1/4-watt (brown-black-red)

E500013

RF-R39

Resistor, 1.8 k, 5%, 1/4-watt (brown-gray-red)

E500004

Resistor, 3.3 k, 5%, 1/4-watt (orange-orange-red)

E500017

RF-R4

Resistor, 5.6 k, 5%, 1/4-watt (green-blue-red)

E500007

RFC1

RF choke, 82 µH, miniature (gray-red-black)

E690003

Toroidal transformer, FT37-43 core (gray); see text

E680003

IC, Microcontroller, 16C72A, 16F872A or 16C72A

E610007

IC, Op-amp, LM358

E600010

Ceramic resonator w/internal capacitors, 4.0 MHz

E660001

HDWR

Socket for U1, 28 pins

E620011

HDWR

#4 split lock washer (2 spares)

E700004

HDWR

4-40 x 1” ZN ST Phillips machine screw (2 spares)

E700047

HDWR

Standoff, 3/16” dia. x 5/8”, #4 hex, RAF #1323-4-A

E700048

MISC

Enamel wire, #26 Thermaleze, GREEN

E760004

2 ft.

MISC

Enamel wire, #26 Thermaleze, RED

E760002

5 ft.

MISC

Hookup wire, #24 insulated

E760005

3”

MISC

KAT1 PC board

E100112

K1 Firmware Requirements

To use the KAT1 antenna tuner, you'll need K1 main processor firmware revision 109 or later. (The main

processor is U1 on the Front Panel board.) To check the firmware revision, hold any switch when powering

up the K1. When you release the switch, the firmware revision will be shown on the LCD.

KAT1 PC Board Assembly

A fine-point, temperature-controlled soldering iron (700-800 degrees F) is required to assemble

this kit. A high-wattage iron or one with a wide tip may damage components, pads, or traces. Use a

minimum amount of solder to avoid ground shorts.

Install components only in the order described below. Double-check all values before soldering,

since removing parts from double-sided PC boards can be difficult.

Place relays at locations K1-K5, with the white-striped end of each relay oriented as shown by its

component outline, but do not solder. Do not bend the relay leads. Note: The reference designators for the

relays may be difficult to read on the rev. C board. They are sequential, starting from the left with K1.

Place relays at locations K6-K10. This second row of relays faces in the opposite direction from

the first row. Do not solder yet.

Using a book or other flat object to hold the relays in place on the top side of the board, flip the board

over. Solder two diagonal corner pins on each relay.

Inspect all 10 relays closely to make sure that they’re seated flat against the PC board. If not, re-heat

the corner pins one a time while pressing down on the relay. Once all relays are properly seated, solder the

remaining pins.

Install the 28-pin IC socket at U1. The notched end of the socket must be aligned with the notched

end of the component outline.

Install the following resistors, starting with R6 in the upper left-hand corner of the board:

__ R6, 1k (brown-black-red) __ R5, 100 ohms (brown-black-brown)

__ R4, 3.3k (orange-orange-red) __ R3, 200 ohms (red-black-brown)

Install the three diodes, with the banded end of each diode oriented as shown on the board. D1 and D2

are type 1N5711. D3 is a type 1N34A, with a larger glass body. The reference designator D3 may not be

silk-screened on the board. D3 goes into the two solder pads between relay K3 and the edge of the board,

with the banded end closest to the pads for connector J2 at the corner of the board Note: On the revision C

PC board, D3 may be a tight fit. Pre-form the leads if necessary.

Install potentiometers R1 and R2 as indicated by their outlines. Make sure they are fully seated on the

PC board and are not tilted. Trim the leads after soldering. This is necessary to prevent shorts when the

KAT1 is installed above the Filter board.

Install RF choke RFC1, which is located near U1.

Ceramic resonator Z1 looks like a capacitor with three leads. Install Z1 (to the left of U1). Be careful

not to overheat the resonator when soldering, as this can alter the resonant frequency. Keep soldering time

to 1-2 seconds per lead. Trim the leads after soldering.

Install the LM358 IC at U2, with the notched or dimpled end oriented as shown by the component

outline. Bend two corner pins to hold the IC in place, then solder.

Install the trimmer capacitor, C9. The flat side of C9 should be oriented to the left as indicated by its

outline.

Install the following capacitors. Note: On the rev. C PC board, the pads for C5 (150 pF) and C17

(.001 µF) may not be spaced perfectly for the supplied capacitors. You may need to pre-form the leads

before installation.

__ C1, 10 pF __ C2, 22 pF __ C3, 39 pF __ C4, 82 pF __ C5, 150 pF (151)

__ C11, __ C12, and __ C17, .001 µF (102) __ C13, and __ C14, .01 µF (103)

__ C15, .047 µF (473) __ C16, .01 µF (103) __ C10, 100 pF (101)

In the following steps, inductors L1 through L4 will be wound and installed. There is no need to

adjust the windings to precisely match the inductances shown on the schematic.

Inductor L1 is wound on a T37-2 core (red) using 6" (15 cm) of #26 red enamel wire. To wind the

inductor, pass the long end of the wire through the core exactly 8 times. Each pass through the core counts

as one turn. The finished winding should look like the illustration below. Exact turns spacing is not critical.

Remove insulation

Spread out the turns of L1 so they occupy about 80-90% of the core’s circumference.

Cut L1's leads to about 1/2" (12 mm) long. Completely remove the enamel insulation from the leads

to within 1/8” (3 mm) of the core. The enamel wire provided can be heat-stripped using a small amount of

solder on the tip of your iron. Stripping using this method takes 4-6 seconds.

Install L1 vertically on the PC board as shown by its component outline, then pull the leads taut on

the bottom of the board.

Trim and solder the leads of L1. When soldering, make sure that the solder binds well to the leads. If

the lead appears to be an "island" in a small pool of solder, chances are it is not making good contact.

Measure from pad to pad using an ohmmeter to verify the connection.

Wind and install L2 through L4 using the same procedure you used for L1. The number of turns and

wire length for each inductor is shown below.

__ L2, 12 turns (8" [20 cm]) __ L3, 17 turns (11" [28 cm]) __ L4, 25 turns (15" [38 cm])

T1 is wound on a ferrite toroidal core (gray, FT37-43; may have an orange dot). Cut two 10" (25 cm)

lengths of #26 enamel wire, one red and one green. Twist the two wires together, crossing over each other

about 3 to 4 times per inch (1-2 times per cm). Then wind the twisted wires onto the core as shown below,

using 10 turns. Each pass through the core counts as one turn, and turns spacing should closely resemble

the illustration.

The wires labeled (1) and (3) should originate from below the core, and wires (2) and (4)

from above it, as shown below. This will ensure that the transformer has the correct phasing.

3 (RED )

1 (GRN)

2 (GRN)

4 (RED )

Trim the leads of T1 to about 1/2" (12 mm) long. Completely remove the insulation from T1's leads

up to the edge of the core, using a solder pot or hot soldering iron tip. Do not attempt to burn off the

insulation using a match or lighter, as the flame may fuse the pairs of wire together, causing them to

become shorted. Another way to remove the insulation is to use fine sand paper.

Tin T1's leads with solder. If the leads do not tin easily, the insulation may not be fully removed.

Using an ohmmeter, measure between the red and green wires to make sure that they're not shorted.

Install T1 as indicated by its PC board outline near the right end of the board. Insert the leads into the

numbered holes as shown by the drawing of T1. Pull the leads taut on the bottom of the board. Before

soldering, make sure that the entire portion of exposed lead is properly tinned.

Cut a 1-1/8" (2.9 cm) length of insulated, solid-conductor hookup wire. Remove 1/4" (6 mm) of

insulation from each end. This jumper will form the 1-turn link winding of T1.

Insert this wire through the center of T1 and into the pad labeled 5. Bend the wire down to the left and

insert the other end into pad 6. Pull the leads of the wire taut on the bottom of the board, then solder.

Install the 3-pin male connector, P1, on the bottom of the ATU board as shown below. Before

soldering, make sure the connector is seated flat against the board and is not tilted. If the connector is not

mounted correctly, it may be difficult to plug the ATU board into the Filter board.

Install the 10-pin, dual-row male connector, P2, on the bottom of the ATU board. As with P1, make

sure the connector is seated completely flat against the PC board.

Straighten the pins on U1 (16C72A). Refer to Figure 4-6 in the K1 owner’s manual if necessary.

Install U1 in its socket, noting the orientation of pin 1, which is label on the board.

Form a discarded component lead into a small U-shape, and install it between the two pads labeled

with a ground symbol (lower left-hand corner of the PC board). Solder the jumper on the bottom of the

board.

K1 Filter Board Preparation

Remove the K1’s top cover (four screws).

Remove the three screws holding the Filter board in place, and unplug the board.

Install a 3-pin female connector (FIL-J1) on the top side of the Filter board. Before soldering, make

sure that the connector is flat against the board and is not tilted.

Remove the jumper between pins 2 and 10 of J2 on the Filter board. Wick out any residual solder.

Install a 10-pin, dual-row female connector (FIL-J2) on the top side of the Filter board. Before

soldering, make sure that the connector is flat against the board and is not tilted.

If you have any additional Filter boards, repeat the previous three steps for each one.

If any of your Filter boards are not aligned, you should align them now as described in the K1

owner’s manual. Filter board alignment cannot be done with the KAT1 installed, since the KAT1 module

prevents access to the slug-tuned inductors. See page 40, Band-Pass Filter Alignment, and page 46,

Preparation for Transmit Alignment.

K1 RF Board Preparation

Remove the K1’s bottom cover (six screws, plus the connector hardware).

If your K1’s RF board is revision E or later, move the RF DET jumper on 3-pin header P3 to the

KAT1 position. If your K1’s RF board is revision D or earlier, locate R36 on the RF board, near the

antenna jack. Unsolder the lead of R36 that is closest to the jack. Bend the resistor up and away from the

board, but do not remove it completely. Note: If you need to remove the KAT1 later to align a new filter

board, you will need to reconnect R36 or move the header on P3 to its original position.

The following five steps are only necessary if you have revision D or earlier of the K1 RF

board. On later revisions, these parts will already have been installed during RF board assembly.

Install resistor RF-R39 (1.8 k, brown-gray-red) on the bottom of the RF board between Q14 base and

ground, if you haven’t already. To install this resistor:

1. Locate RP4, in the back-left corner of the RF board near the key jack.

2. On the bottom of the board, solder one end of R39 to pin 1 of RP4 (the round pad). Keep the lead

length very short.

3. Solder the other lead of R39 to the nearby ground pad for crystal X6. This pad can be easily identified

on the top side of the board; the "X6" label is directly above it.

Solder capacitor RF-C76 (.01 µF, “103”) across RF-R39, the resistor in the previous step. Use short

leads, and fold the capacitor down so it won’t hit the bottom cover.

On the bottom of the RF board, locate the label DRV. Just to the right of the letter Vin DRV is a

trace segment about 1” (2.5 cm) long, with four 45-degree bends (see below). Carefully cut this trace in

approximately the location shown, using a sharp knife or hand milling tool. Use an ohmmeter to verify that

the trace is cut.

DRV

CUT

HERE

RF-R4

Solder resistor RF-R4 (5.6 k) on the bottom of the board between the two pads located at either end of

the cut trace segment. Use the minimum lead length necessary. Position the resistor so that its leads do not

touch any adjacent pads or traces. Solder the resistor on the bottom of the board.

If you plan to use the KAT1 on 80 meters, install a 100-µH RF choke on the bottom of the RF board

as described in the K1B80 errata sheet. The RF choke is supplied with the 80-meter band kit.

Filter Board and KAT1 Module Installation

Plug in the Filter board you plan to use, being very careful to line up all 8 pins of each of the three

connectors. To hold the Filter board in place, use only the middle of the three screws. The two screws at the

ends of the Filter board will not be needed, because the KAT1 module’s screws will be inserted here.

Set one 5/8” long unthreaded standoff on top of each of the two holes at the ends of the Filter board.

These standoffs must not be left out, since they establish the spacing between the two boards.

Plug the KAT1 module into the Filter board, being careful to line up all pins of the 3-pin and 10-pin

connectors.

The two 5/8” long standoffs should now be visible through the holes at each end of the KAT1

module. Use two 1” long 4-40 screws and two #4 split lock washers to hold the KAT1 to the Filter board.

Initial Test

Connect a power supply or battery to the K1 and turn on power. If you see or smell smoke, turn

power OFF immediately. Check all connections and refer to the Troubleshooting section if necessary.

Tap MENU and scroll through the entries until you find ATU. To select the mode for the ATU, hold

EDIT. If you see three dashes (---) instead of the ATU parameter, refer to Troubleshooting.

Step through the ATU menu parameters using WPM+ and WPM-. Each menu entry will be

explained in the Using the ATU section.

Set the ATU parameter to L0. You should hear a relay switch when you move from L0 to L1, then to

L2, etc., up through L4. The same should be true for C0 through C5, as well as N1 and N2. If you don't

hear any relays switching, see Troubleshooting.

Connect a 50-ohm dummy load to the K1’s antenna jack (5W or higher rating). Use the OUT menu

entry to set power to 5 watts.

Set the ATU parameter to Fx.x (KAT1 firmware revision). You should see F1.1 (or higher). Exit

the menu, then hold WPM+ and WPM- together to go into TUNE mode: you should see r8.5.

Immediately tap any key to exit TUNE.

Note: r8.5 is an SWR test value only, showing whether digital data is being transmitted successfully from

the KAT1 to the K1 in TUNE mode.

SWR Bridge Adjustment (C9)

Make sure a 50-ohm dummy load is connected to the antenna jack.

Select band 1 (the lower of the two bands).

Set the ATU parameter to CLS (Calibrate SWR) using the menu.

Set power output for 5.0 watts using the OUT menu entry. Exit the menu.

Pre-set potentiometers R1 and R2 on the ATU board to about 60% of full clockwise rotation.

Connect the positive lead of a DMM or analog voltmeter to the point labeled TP1. Connect the

negative lead to the nearby ground jumper.

Locate a non-metallic tuning tool for adjusting ceramic trimmer C9. An alternative is to use a very

small flat-blade screwdriver or jeweler’s driver, with tape wrapped around the metal shaft to prevent you

from contacting it.

Enter TUNE mode by holding WPM+ and WPM- together. Adjust C9 for the lowest possible

voltmeter reading. (The null may be sharp.) Cancel TUNE mode by tapping any switch other than WPM+

or WPM-.

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