Composite-ARF BAE Hawk Manuel utilisateur
B.A.E. HAWK
BAE Hawk
“THE BEST FLYING PLANES ON THE PLANET”
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
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Thank you very much for purchasing our omposite-ARF ‘Hawk’ jet, made with the
revolutionary Total Area Vacuum Sandwich (TAVS) technology.
Before you get started building and setting-up your aircraft, please make sure you have read
this instruction manual, and understood it. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to
contact your Rep, or -ARF directly. Below are the contact details:
Email: feedback@carf-models.com
or techsupport@carf-models.com
Telephone: Phone your -ARF Rep!!! He will be there for you.
Website: http://www.carf-models.com
LLiiaabbiilliittyy EExxcclluussiioonn aanndd DDaammaaggeess
You have acquired a kit, which can be assembled into a fully working R/ model when fitted out
with suitable accessories, as described in the instruction manual with the kit.
However, as manufacturers, we at omposite-ARF are not in a position to influence the way you
build and operate your model, and we have no control over the methods you use to install,
operate and maintain the radio control system components. For this reason we are obliged to
deny all liability for loss, damage or costs which are incurred due to the incompetent or
incorrect application and operation of our products, or which are connected with such operation
in any way. Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the omposite-ARF
company to pay compensation is excluded, regardless of the legal argument employed. This
applies to personal injury, death, damage to buildings, loss of turnover and business,
interruption of business or other direct and indirect consequent damages. In all circumstances
our total liability is limited to the amount which you actually paid for this model.
BY OPERATING THIS MODEL YOU ASSUME FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR A TIONS.
It is important to understand that omposite-ARF o., Ltd, is unable to monitor whether you
follow the instructions contained in this instruction manual regarding the construction, operation
and maintenance of the aircraft, nor whether you install and use the radio control system
correctly. For this reason we at omposite-ARF are unable to guarantee, or provide, a
contractual agreement with any individual or company that the model you have made will
function correctly and safely. You, as operator of the model, must rely upon your own expertise
and judgement in acquiring and operating this model.
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
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Attention !
This ‘jet’ aircraft is a high-end product and can create an enormous risk for both pilot and spectators,
if not handled with care & used according to the instructions. Make sure that you operate your ‘Hawk’
according to the laws and regulations governing model flying in the country of use. The engine, landing
gear, servos, linkages and control surfaces have to be attached properly. Please use only the
recommended servos and accessories. Make sure that the ‘ entre of Gravity’ is located in the
recommended place. Use the nose heavy end of the G range for your first flights. A tail heavy plane
can be an enormous danger for you and all spectators. Fix any weights, and heavy items like batteries,
very securely into the plane. Make sure that the plane is secured properly when you start the engine.
Have a helper hold your plane from the nose before you start the engine. Make sure that all spectators
are far behind, or far in front, of the aircraft when running up the engine. Make sure that you range
check your R/ system thoroughly before the 1st flight. It is absolutely necessary to range check your
complete R/ installation first WITHOUT the engine running. Leave the transmitter antenna retracted, and
check the distance you can walk before ‘fail-safe’ occurs. Then start the engine, run at about half throttle
and repeat this range check. Make sure that there is no range reduction before ‘fail-safe’ occurs. If the
range with engine running is less then with the engine off, please DON’T FLY at that time. heck that the
wing and stab retaining bolts are tight, and that all linkages are secured. Please don’t ignore our
warnings, or those provided by other manufacturers. They refer to things and processes which, if ignored,
could result in permanent damage or fatal injury.
Important/General Notes
Elastic Hinges:
The ailerons, elevator, flaps and rudder are all hinged for you. The ailerons and flaps are laminated in the
mould and attached with a special nylon hinge-cloth, sandwiched between the outer skin and the foam.
This nylon hinge is 100% safe and durable. You will never have to worry about breaking it, or wearing it
out. There is no gap at all on the top side of the surface, and there is a very narrow slot in the bottom
surface, where the control surface slides under the skin during ‘down’ throw. This means that the hinge
axis line is on the top surface of the wing and stab, not in the centre. This is NOT a disadvantage, but you
need to program in about 10% NEGATIVE differential in your transmitter. This means that the ‘down’
throw needs to be about 10% more than the ‘up’ throw. Why? Because the axis of the hinge is not at the
centreline of the aileron/elevator, so it moves slightly in and out when operated, and the control surface
gets a little "smaller" in surface area when moving downwards. The slot needs some explanation, too. The
cut line is exactly in the correct position so that the control surface slides under the wing skin smoothly. If
the cut was a few mm forward or backwards, it would not work properly. So, make sure that the lip is not
damaged, and that the control surface slides under this lip perfectly. It will not lock at any time, as long as
the lip is not damaged. If damage occurs, you can cut a maximum of 2-3 mm off the lip on the wing in
front of the control surface, but you should never cut off more than this.The rudder is hinged with a metal
rod passing through factory fitted hinge plates. The all flying elevator hinges on a large carbon plate
fitted with ball-races, which pivots on a carbon tube that requires locking in position.
Servo hoice:
We strongly advise that you use the recommended servos and equipment listed in the manual.
Servo Screws:
Fix the all the servos into the milled plywood servo mounts using the 2.9 Ø x13mm or 16mm sheet metal
screws provided in the kit, not the standard screws normally supplied with servos by the servo manufac-
turer. This is because all the holes in our milled servo mounts are 2mm diameter, due to our N manu-
facturing process, and this is too big for the normal screws
Building Sequence:
The actual building sequence is your choice, but it is definitely most efficient to start at the back of the
fuselage and work forwards, in the same order as shown below.
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Take are:
omposite sandwich parts are extremely strong, but fragile at the same time. Always keep in mind that
these contest airplanes are designed for minimum weight and maximum strength in flight. Please take care
of it, especially during transport, to make sure that none of the critical parts and linkages are damaged.
Always handle your airplane with great care, especially on the ground and during transport, so you will
have many hours of pleasure with it. To protect the finished paint on the outside of the model from
scratches and dents during building, cover your work table with a piece of soft carpet, cloth or bubble-
plastic. The best way to stop small spots of glue getting stuck to the outside painted surfaces is to give the
whole model 2 good coats of clear car wax first, but of course you must be sure to remove this 100%
properly before adding any additional paint, markings or trim.
Adhesives and Solvents
Not all types of glues are suited to working with composite parts. Here is a selection of what we normally
use, and what we can truly recommend. Please don’t use inferior quality glues - you will end up with an
inferior quality plane, that is not so strong or safe. Jet models require good gluing techniques, due to the
higher flying speeds, and hence higher loads on many of the joints. We highly recommend that you use a
slow filled thixotropic epoxy for gluing highly stressed joints (eg: Hysol 9462). The self-mixing nozzles
make it easy to apply exactly the required amount, in exactly the right place, and it will not run or flow
onto places where you don’t want it! It takes about 1 - 2 hours to start to harden so it also gives plenty of
time for accurate assembly. Finally it gives a superb bond on all fibreglass and wood surfaces. Of course
there are many similar glues available, and you can use your favourite type.
1. A glue ‘Thin’ and ‘Thick’ types. We recommend ZAP, as this is very high quality.
2. ZAP-O or Plasti-ZAP, odourless, or ZAP canopy glue 560 (for clear canopy)
3. 30 minute epoxy (stressed joints must be glued with at least 30 min & NOT 5 min epoxy).
4. Loctite Hysol 9462 or equivalent (optional, but highly recommended)
5. Epoxy laminating resin (12 - 24 hr cure) with hardener.
6. Milled glass fibre, for adding to slow epoxy for stronger joints.
7. Micro-balloons, for adding to slow epoxy for lightweight filling.
8. Thread-locking compound (Loctite 243, ZAP Z-42, or equivalent)
We take great care during production at the factory to ensure that all joints are properly glued, but of
course it is wise to check these yourself and re-glue any that might just have been missed. When sanding
areas on the inside of the composite sandwich parts to prepare the surface for gluing something onto it,
do NOT sand through the layer of lightweight glasscloth on the inside foam sandwich. It is only necessary
to rough up the surface, with 80/120 grit, and wipe off any dust with acetone or de-natured alcohol (or
similar) before gluing to make a perfect joint. Of course, you should always prepare both parts to be
joined before gluing for the highest quality joints. Don’t use Acetone for cleaning external, painted, sur-
faces as you will damage the paint. Tip: For cleaning small (uncured) glue spots or marks off the painted
surfaces you can use old-fashioned liquid cigarette-lighter fuel, like ‘Ronsonol’ or equivalent. This does not
damage the paint, as Acetone and many other solvents will, and this is what we use at the factory. At
omposite-ARF we try our best to offer you a high quality kit, with outstanding value-for-money, and as
complete as possible. However, if you feel that some additional or different hardware should be included,
please feel free to let us know. Email us: feedback@composite-arf.com. We know that even good things
can be made better !
Did you read the hints and warnings above and the instructions carefully?
Did you understand everything in this manual completely?
Then, and only then, let’s start assembling your omposite-ARF Hawk
If not, please read it again before you continue.
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
www.carf-models.com
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This list will help you chose the main additional items needed to finish your omposite
ARF BAE Hawk.
Some of the recommendations are mandatory and some can be sourced and chosen by
you. The items we list here are highly recommended by -ARF, and have been tested on
various prototype aircraft used during the development of this aeroplane.
1. Servos (minimum 8 high quality servos) All the main control surfaces require a
minimum 11kg digital servo (two matched servos for the elevator control) such as
the Gr/JR 8411/8711 metal geared servos. All the prototype Hawk models used
JR 8711 servos.
2. Heavy duty servo arms are recommended, for the JR servos we used JR part
JRPA215 or Graupner #Nr 3544. Two packets required.
3. A receiver power supply system like the excellent Powerbox units are
recommended using two separate batteries through separate regulators. The Hawk
requires some weight in the nose area, so the additional batteries all help.
4. Turbine set. Turbines in the 10-16kg (20-36lb) thrust range have been used in the
prototype aeroplanes. Turbines in the 16kg (36lb) 160N thrust class should be
seen as the maximum thrust for the aeroplane and should not be exceeded. Ideally
a 160N turbine should be turned down in RPM 5%. omp ARF display aeroplanes
use Jet at turbines.
5. Retractable Landing Gear sets are available from omposite-ARF in sport and
scale sets ( -ARF product #200500-Sport) and (#200600-Scale). The Hawk was
designed specifically around the German manufactured AT high quality sets that
include three units, plus specifically manufactured trailing link legs with associated
ball raced wheels and high quality brake units. If you chose the sports scale gear
to start with you can upgrade at a later date using scale upgrade set ( -ARF
product #200650)
6. Landing Gear support equipment is available from omposite-ARF (#200550), or
can be sourced by you. The Hawk requires a minimum of three air rams to operate
the gear doors (four with a scale nose gear door set up). The retract valve chosen
needs to operate air up/down units and a suitable method of controlling the gear
door opening sequence. The Hawk has the gear doors stay open when the landing
gear is in the down position. -ARF set features high quality parts including air
valves from Jet Tronic to control the gear and door opening, plus brakes. Suitable
air tubing and a large capacity air tank for landing gear/door operation. Filler
valves and quick disconnect joiners. We strongly recommend you use this proven
high quality set.
ACCESSORIES
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
7. A radio system with a minimum of 7 channels is needed, but -ARF recommend a
quality system with 9 or more channels to allow individual servo connections to the
receiver system (talk to your -ARF rep for advice on a suitable system) High
quality extension leads are required and a guide to the sizes and quantities
required are listed below.
8. The Hawk features a large cockpit area which benefits from some additional
detail. Our Hawk is a perfect starting point for a scale aeroplane, adding
additional cockpit detail using products like the 1:5 scale ejector seats from
Graupner and canopy glass MD from Taylor Made Decals will add to the
already impressive look of this iconic aeroplane.
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T rust Tube Assembly
The thrust tube is manufactured from an aluminium
outer “cool” tube and a stainless steel inner pipe
rolled and spot welded for you at the factory.
This tube is designed to work with the sizes of turbine
intended for the BAE Hawk. Turbines in the 22-35lb
thrust class are perfect.
The tail pipe is mounted in the fuselage between the
rear fuselage cut-out opening and aluminium
mounting brackets provided that fix to the carbon
bellmouth and turbine mounting rails.
The first job is to fix the carbon bellmouth to the
stainless inner tube. The bellmouth is designed to go
inside the tail pipe and be fixed by M3 cap head
screws or pop rivets if available to you.
The thrust tube can be fitted in any orientation, but
the neatest look is with the joint seam at the top
when the aeroplane is on its wheels.
For simplicity the Hawk was designed without full
ducting, hundreds of test flights in various conditions
have shown perfect operation and normal turbine
temperatures.
A trial fit of the carbon bellmouth should show any
areas that need sanding to allow a snug fit. The
carbon moulding process will undoubtedly lead to a
variation in thickness of the material. Some early tail
tubes show a reduction in diameter where the lip is
formed in the tail pipe tube, this needs to be worked
out before the carbon bellmouth will fit. Later pipes
have no lip.
Once the bellmouth can be inserted at least 12mm
drill four holes to suit the fixing you have chosen.
If using M3 x 8 Socket head cap screws use washers
under the screw heads on the inside (carbon)
Fitting the aluminium mounting angles to the bellmouth at approximately 3 and 9
o’clock is best done after the turbine has been mounted so that the inner tube is fixed
centrally on the turbine cone. This is important to avoid “hot Spots” in the pipe that can
lead to tube failures. Note that on early kits the tail pipe outer “cool” tube will get very
close to the elevator servo mounting plate restricting how high the pipe can be mounted
at the front. Later kits will have more clearance.
Alignment by eye is accurate enough when fitting the carbon cone.
The outer tube should protrude through the fuselage rear between 3 and 5mm. This sets
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CONSTRUCTION
Fig 1
Fig 2
Fig 3
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
the position.
Access to the two front mounting screws (2.2 x 10mm) is improved if you drill two access
holes in the rear wing seating area. Holes drilled at 170mm centres approx and 10mm
in from the rear edge of the wing. The tail pipe front brackets should be screwed directly
to the turbine mounting rails. Be sure to centralise the carbon bell mouth between the
rails as the deflector duct fits outside of the carbon bell mouth.
Turbine Installation
Mounting the turbine is very straight forward on the Hawk, with excellent access to the
turbine through the wing opening. Mount the turbine directly on the bearers, higher
power turbines benefit from being mounted slightly higher in the fuselage. To achieve
this the motor mount could be fixed below the rails (when looking through the wing
opening)
Modern electric start turbines remove the need for
engine access hatches, as the operator does not need
to attach or detach anything from the turbine during
starting.
We recommend a turbine of 12-16kg thrust, the three
prototype aeroplanes have been flown with Jet at
P120SX and P160SX turbines.
Any turbine between 22 and 35lb thrust will give
adequate performance to the Hawk. For less
experienced pilots we recommend turbines over 35lb
thrust have the maximum RPM reduced to limit output.
IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION. The Hawk is
designed for a maximum turbine thrust of 16kg-This
must not be exceeded. All installation pictures show a
Jet at P120SX, , which give more than scale
performance including huge vertical elements.
Many of the turbines available now feature off-set
mounts. The exact position of the turbine will affect the
thrust tubes vertical position, which can affect the
Hawk’s trim. On very early kits the elevator servo
plate is mounted 10mm lower in the fuselage,
requiring a small dent placing in the outer cool tube to
allow clearance for the correct bellmouth height. On
the prototype model 8mm of packing was required.
The exact position of the turbine fore and aft will
depend on your chosen turbine. With the Jet at
turbines we recommend a distance of 25mm between
the back of the turbines tail cone and the carbon
bellmouth/stainless tube joint. This relates to the front
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Fig 6
Fig 5
Fig 4
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
of the turbine purple cover finishing just in front of the
wing fixing formers.
The carbon turbine deflector guard mounts to the
carbon bellmouth with three M3 x 10 Allen bolts,
washers and nuts. The guard features mounting ears
that sit between the turbine mounting lugs.
When you drill the fixing holes for your chosen
turbine it is very important that the turbine is centred
on the tail pipe tube. It is also important that the
turbine is not angled so that the hot gasses are being
directed onto the tail pipe walls. Jet at turbines are
installed with the cable connection towards the top of
the aeroplane, away from the wing. Drill the four
mounting holes ø4 one at a time, adding a screw into
the drilled holes in turn, help keep the turbine
position. Once drilled remove the turbine and open
the holes to ø5.5mm ready for the M4 T-nuts. These
can be pulled into position with the M4 Allen screws
and large spreader washers. The carbon deflector
guard may require a hole to accept the turbine cable,
with the shown Jet at turbine a single hole is
required for the power cable.
Fuel Tank Setup
omposite-ARF offer an optional moulded Kevlar fuel
tank of 4.1 ltr capacity, which is installed in the
fuselage on the of G and a plastic tank that can be
used as a hopper tank in the cockpit area. If you wish
to fit smoke some of the -ARF team pilots have used
Flash wing tanks mounted below the main fuel tank. If
this set up is chosen the wing services should exit the
wing through the leading edge/wing mount face,
with corresponding holes drilled in both faces. The
main tank is moulded with a deeper rear trough to
retain fuel towards the end of the tank.
Before starting assembly of the moulded tank it is
important that any debris left in the tank during the
manufacturing process is flushed out. Washing the
tank with warm water and some washing detergent
works well. Ensure the tank is completely dry before
you assemble it fully.
The tank comes factory joined and is tested in the
factory for leaks. The recommended hardware is
provided in the kit. are when assembling the fuel
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Fig 7
Fig 8
Fig 9
Fig 10
B.A.E. HAWK www.carf-models.com
tank cap and tubing will reward you with a reliable
aeroplane. De-bur inside the brass tubing with a new
sharp scalpel blade and remove any raised edges on
the outside caused by cutting. To aid sealing and help
prevent the fuel tube coming off, solder the short
lengths of tube provided a few mm back from each
end of the feed line and on the outside of the breather
line only.
Use Tygone tube for the clunk line, where the clunkline
passes through the baffle insert a section of brass tube
as the glass fibre edge can easily cut through the
tygone tube. The supplied soft clunk will become
heavier when charged with fuel and easily reach all
areas of the fuel tank.
The fuel tank is designed to be easily removable,
retained by the aluminium tank cap at the front and
two fixing brackets at the rear. The tank cap is
inserted into a 60 x 60 3mm plywood plate that is
fixed to former F2. The two aluminium angles and 30
x 3 x 185mm plywood strip are bonded to the rear of
the tank. Two M4 Allen screws fix these angles to
plywood mounts bonded to the fuselage sides. Start
by laminating the four 40 x 45mm 3mm plywood
mounts into two pairs.
Drill ø 4.1 holes centred on one each of the aluminium
angle faces. Drilling small holes in the opposite face
will help improve the bond to the Plywood spreader
plate and a small screw can be added for additional
security. Assembly of the rear mount is simplified if
you tack glue each part in position with a spot of Slo
Zap cyanoacrylate glue. Start by fixing the plywood
cross piece to the rear of the tank. Gently lay the
tank in the fuselage with the 60 x 3 x 60mm front
mount in plate to set the for/aft position of the tank.
Even moulded Kevlar tanks expand slightly during
filling, so it is important that the tank is not pushed
down into the fuselage before fixing. Tack glue the 40
x 45 x 6mm side mounts to the fuselage side against
the former F3 approximately 8mm down from the
fuselage contour change, using a few spots of thick
A glue. Tack glue the aluminium mounting angle to
the plywood spreader plate with the ø 4.1mm hole
against the plywood mounts. Using a pen, mark the
fixing position on the 40 x 45 x 6mm plywood plates.
Remove the tank and break free the angles. Mark the
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Fig 12
Fig 13
Fig 14
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