Captain Slug FLAK Manuel utilisateur
FLAK ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
The FLAK is a multi
-
ammo Lever
-
Action spring
-
plunger homemade blaster powered by elastic cords. It can be setup to
accept and fire from Rival Mags, Talon Mags, Sledgefire Shells, Spring Thunder Shells, Trilogy Shells, spigot-launched
Missiles (Demolisher Rockets), and anything you want to plug onto a 1/2 SCH40 pipe spigot. It is released as a Non-
Commercial license file set by Captain Slug (http://www.captainslug.com).
You are welcome to and encouraged to modify the files in any way you want. All of the parts can be printed with infill as
low as 20% in PLA, but I would recommend printing in layers of 200 Micron or smaller. Also set the wall/perimeters to
1.5mm to 2mm thickness.
Hardware kits and Blaster kits are available for sale. I'm producing these myself in what remains of my free time.
https://www.etsy.com/shop/CaptainSlug
DO NOT STORE IN TEMPERATURES ABOVE 100F. Storing the blaster inside of a car in warmer months will
cause the printed parts to distort or warp beyond their intended shape. If you need to store one in a vehicle
temporarily, store it in the trunk.
DO NOT aim this blaster at faces. The muzzle velocities this design can reach are between 80fps and 150fps
depending upon the darts used and the bands installed.
For most o
f the above hardware list the quantities are the MINIMUM required for assembly. Easily
-
lost items will have
several spares and I typically include extras of the majority of the items. Item #19 is not used in this build.
To assemble this blaster you will need a Small Philips Screwdriver, Flat screwdriver, Scissors, and a Round Needle File.
The Plunger Tube in the Hardware Kit does come pre-lubricated. But it's also a good idea to have extra lubricant on-hand
for the Plunger Tube and I would recommend only using a clear Silicone Grease such as Oatey's brand #30219. Any clear
90% silicone grease will work fine so long as it does not include any additives. NEVER USE SILICONE LUBRICANT FROM
AN AEROSOL CAN. The propellants used in those are harmful to plastic parts.
Above is a list of every printed part needed to assemble this blaster. The majori
ty of the through holes should print to
the required tolerance, but you will likely have one or two that may require minimal filing. Also make sure to trim off any
burrs or oversized edges. You will also want to print the breech parts and foregrip of your choice. I also recommend
printing 4 copies of the “Cordpler” print.
Insert a Lin
kage print int
o
ea
ch end of the LinkCoupler
print, then drive a
4
-
40
screw in from each side to secure them.
Line up the holes in each LeverL and LeverR print and drive a 4-40 screw into each hole.
Force
a Hex Standoff into the two
socket
s in the Sideplate print. Dri
ve a 4
-
40 screw into them
from the oppo
si
te side
.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
A.
Once the perpe
ndicular holes where shown are unobs
tructed by the he
x standoffs, drive a 4
-
40 screw into each
.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
B. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
Repeat this process for the other Sideplate print.
Force
a Hex Standoff into the two
socket
s in the
bottom inside of the
Cap
print.
Drive a 4
-
40 screw into the
m
from the
opposite side.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
A.
Once the perpe
ndicular holes where shown are unobs
tructed by the hex standoffs, drive a 4
-
40 screw into each
.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
B. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
C. Insert a Hex Standoff into each of the sloped sockets in the back of the Cap print on each side.
Drive a 4
-
40 screw into them
from the oppo
si
te side
.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
A. Once the perpendicular holes where shown are unobstructed by the hex standoffs, drive a 4-40 screw into each.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
B. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
Stret
ch a Dash 131 o
-
ring onto the undercut on the flange around the back of the Cap print. You wil
l need to wedge it
into the gap where indicated first.
Add a second Dash131 o-ring into the opening at the back as shown, then fold it over to fit the opposite side of the o-
ring so it becomes captive.
A.
Force
a Hex Standoff into the two
socket
s in the
bottom inside of the
Muzzle
print.
B. Drive a 4-40 screw into them from the opposite side.
Keep driving the 4-40 screw until the standoffs can no longer be seen through the perpendicular holes at the bottom
edge of the print.
C. Once the perpendicular holes where shown are unobstructed by the hex standoffs, drive a 4-40 screw into each.
These screws will retain the standoffs and prevent them from backing out of the sockets.
D. Remove the 4-40 screws that were used to pull the standoffs into the bottom of the sockets.
Attach the PlungerA
and Plunger
B prints with two 4
-
40 screws.
Slide the ¾” length nylon spacer into alignment with the two holes in the back of PlungerA, then drive a 4-40 screw in
from each side to retain it. It should spin freely on both screws once they are in place.
Secure PlungerC to the end of the assembly using two 4
-
40 screws.
If the topside of the PlungerA print is rough in the areas shown with stripes, use sandpaper or a flat file to flatten and
smooth out the indicated area.
Add a Dash 131 o-ring to the undercut on the head of the Plunger assembly.
Insert a round standoff into the hole in the Sear print, then
line
the two up with the ho
les in the Grip print. Secure the
round standoff in the Grip print with two 4-40 screws.
S
lide the Trigger print into the Grip print so that th
e
“
heel
”
is restin
g inside.
Tie the end of the smaller size elastic and then feed it through the holes at the front of the Sear and Trigger prints.
Stretch it out tightly and tie a second knot close as close to the Trigger print as possible.
Test the resulting tension by trying to pull the Trigger and Sear prints apart. The gap between them should only be able
to expand between ¼ and 3/8 of an inch.
Once this is confirmed, cut off the excess elastic and set it aside.
Attach the Sideplate
print
s to the Grip
print using 4
-
40 screws.
Slide the Lever prints into the grip until the
large hole lines up with the
large holes in the Trigger and Sideplate prints.
Feed a long 10
-
32 screw in
through the
S
ideplate
s
, L
ever
, and Trigger prints
.
Drive a 4-40 screw in through the perpendicular hole in the Sideplate print until it clamps down onto the long 10-32
screw.
Us
e a 4
-
40 screw to attach the
Win
g prints to each Sideplate.
Attach the Center pri
nt to the front of the Sideplate prints using two 4
-
40 screws.
Slide the Plunger assembly down over the grip assembly.
Slide the
plunger tube onto the end of
the Plunger.
Force the Cap print into the plunger tube until it bottoms out.
Line up the
holes in one of the U
-
channels with the Sideplate and Cap prints, and se
cure it with 4
-
40 screws.
Repeat for the remaining U
-
chann
el on the
opposite side.
Insert a
short pin into each hole in the front of the Center print,
then push the rail_max pr
int onto the short pins.
Sec
ure the rail_max print to the Cap print using two 4
-
40 screws.
The R
e
ar Half Assembly is complete.
Now
onto the various ammo type front en
ds.
Inline
RIVAL
Magazine
Assembly
Attach the RamR Print to the front of the Cap
print using two 4
-
40 screws.
Tie a knot at the end of the 3/32” elastic, then feed the free end through the ClawR print
and into the hole in the side of the CartRT print.
Then feed the free end
in the hole perpendicular to that inside hole and out t
he back of the CartR
T
print.
Pull the cord until it’s taught, then tie a knot as close to the CartRT print as possible. Use scissors to trim off the excess.
Repeat to install the second ClawRT print on the right side of the CartRT print.
Table des matières
Autres manuels Captain Slug Jouet
