Brother Serger 1034D Manuel utilisateur

Serger

Techniques

Table

Contents

Balanced Serger Stitches ..........

....

...

1 Flatlock

Applique

................

.. .. ..

....6

-Thread Serging

...........

...

..1 Decorative

Lace

Reinforci

Tape

Application

........

1 and Tape

Application

..............

.. ..

......7

Gathering

.........

...

.....

.....2 Rolled Edge .

...

.....

............

...

Three-Thread

ging

...

...........

Napkin

Fin

Rolled Edge ................8

Edge

Hemming

Finishing ....

...

2 Tablecloth Edging .

...

...........

...

.. ..

....8

Lingerie Seams .............................

3 Formal and Bridal

Wear

......

...

....

....9

Lace

Joining

........................

...

.....3 Scarf Edge Rolled Hem ........

...

....

...

tipurpose

Guide

Foot

....

...

.......

Spaghetti

Straps

.. ..

.....

......

able Three-Thread Blind Hem ..

4 Fabric Flowers

......

..........

....

...

.1O

Decorative Serging .........

....

.......4 Stitch

Variat

ions -

Heirloom

...

Decor

ative

Thread Serging

.......

...

Pin Tucking

.......

.....

.. ..

...............

...

Basic Three-Thread Flatlock....

....

Heirloom

Lace

Insertion ...

.............

Flatlock Topstitching .

...

....

...

..........6 Gathering Foot Quick Start Guide ..

Balanced

Serger

Stitches

Four-Thread

Serging

Stitch

four-thread

mock

safety

stitch

Left

needle

4.0

Right

needle

4.0

Upper

looper

4.0

Lower

looper

4.0

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

any

Stitch

length

3.0-

4.0

Foot

all

purpos

• Balanced stitches are used in

construction

applications

such

seams,

overcasting,

edgings

and finishes.

• A balanced

three

four-thread

stitch has

both

looper

threads

meeting

knitting

the

outside

edge

your

fabric.

See

your

manual

for

informat

on on

balancing

a stitch.

• The

four

thread

stitch

also called

the

mock

safety stitch.

• This stitch creates a very

durable

yet

flexible

seam.

• The

four

thread

stitch

created by using

both

needles and

the

loopers.

• The

right

(or

inside)

needle

creates a safety stitch

between

the

left

(or

outside

needle) and

the

fabric

edge

~----------

__________

__,_

Reinforcing

Tape

Application

Stitch

Left

needle

Right

needle

Upper

looper

Lower

looper

Thread

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

Stitch

length

Foot

four

thread

mock

saf

stitch

4.0

standard

ewing

any

3.0- 4.0

all

urpo

Shoulder

seams

often

sag

not

reinforced

stabilized.

•

reinforce

a seam, simply place a

length

narrow

twill

tape

along

the

seam

line

before

sewing

and serge

into

the

seam.

•

you

want

the

tape

less

visible,

substitute

coordinating

narrow

washable satin

ribbon

for

the

twill

tape

•

sure

that

your

needles catch

the

tape

securely.

Soft

Gathering

Stitch

four-thread

mock

safety

stitch

Left

needle

5.0

Right

needle

5.0

Upper

looper

4.0

Lower

looper

4.0

Differential

2.0

Knife

5.0

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

lightweight

Stitch

length

4.0

Foot

all

purpose

Three-Thread

Serging

Stitch

three-thread

stitch,

wide

narrow

Left

needle

4.0

(wide)

Right

needle

4.0

(narrow)

Upper

looper

4.0

Lower

looper

4.0

Differential

0-2.0

Knife

4.0

5.0

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

(wide)

medium

heavyweight

knits

Fabric

(narrow)

light

medium

weight

knits

Stitch

length

3.0

4.0

Foot

all

purpose

• Using

the

four-thread

stitch

and

your

differential,

you

can

make

softly

gathered

ruffles

instantly.

•

Use

the

set-up

information

and

simply

serge

the

top

edge

your

fabric

and

create

your

ruffle.

• Balanced

three-thread

seams have

stretch

than

four-thread

stitch

and

are

generally

used in

construction

knit

garments.

•

Three-thread

stitches are created by using

only

the

2 needles.

•

Use

the

left

needle

for

wider

stitch.

•

Use

the

right

needle

for

narrow

stitch.

- 7

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• Decorative stitches are

generally

three

-thread

stitches.

Edge

Hemming

and

Finishing

• Edge

finishing

overcasting

good

way

keep

woven

fabric

from

raveling.

• A balanced

three-thread

stitch

perfect

lightweight

finish

Lingerie

Seams

Stitch

three-thread

narrow

stitch

Right

needle

4.0

Upper

looper

4.0

Lower

looper

4.0

Differential 0

-1

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

off

Fabric

tricot

Foot

all

purpose

Lace

Joining

Stitch

three

-thre

narrow

stitch

Right

needle

4.0

Upper

looper

4.0

Lower

looper

4.0

Differential 0

-1

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

off

Fabric

lace

Stitch

length

2.5- 3.5

Foot

all

purpos

• A balanced

three-thread

stitch

perfect

lightweight

seam

for

lingerie.

•

removing

the

stitch finger,

you

can

attain

a very

narrow

and

light-

weight

seam

for

lingerie

•

Experiment

with

the

upper

and

lower

looper

tensions

create

the

per-

fect

seam and

finish

for

your

lingerie

project

• The serger

good

way

join

laces and

finish

the

edge

the

same

time

•

Use

the

set

left

and

you

are ready

join

laces

beautifully

and professionally.

Multipurpose

Gui

Foot

• The

blind

hem

foot

also called

the

multipurpose

guide

foot

• The

guide

movable

from

left

right

and

can be used

with

the

left

right

needle.

• We

use

this

foot

in many

decorative

stitch

applications

guide

our

fabric.

Durable

Three-Thread Blind

Hem

Stitch

three-thread

wide

stitch

Left

need

le 2.0

Upper

loop

er 5.0

Lower

loope

3.0

Different

-1.5

Knife

5.0

Thre

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

nger

Fab

ric

woven/knit

tch

ngth

4.0

blind

hem

Decorative

Serging

• The

blind

hem

basic

knit

sewing

. This

hem

lightweight,

offers

stretch and

nearly invisible.

•

Use

your

blind

hem

foot

. You

will

need

practice

a scrap

your

fabric

get

the

guide

adjusted correctly.

• This

adjustment

will

change according

the

weight

thickness

your

fabric.

For

information

, please see

your

machine

manual

•

unbalancing

your

tensions,

you

can create some very

interesting

effects. We call

this

decorative

serging

serger

embellishing

•

Adding

decorative

threads

your

serging creates

many

beautiful

opportunities

for

creative serging.

Hint: Once a serger stitch

formed,

a circle

thread

When

tighten

one

thread,

pulls

another

thread

When

lighten

tension

one

thread,

allows

itself

and

another

relax

move

within

the

circle.

Thinking

the

stitches in

this

way

will

help

you

create

the

look

that

you

want

with

your

choice

threads

Learning: Set

your

serger

for

a balanced

wide

three

thread

stitch

shown

earlier

in this

book.

Loosen

your

needle

tension

#2. Serge

scrap

for

about

2 inches. Begin

serge

again

but

try

applying

light

pinch pressure

one

looper

thread

(just above

the

tension)

and

then

the

other

. Observe

the

changes

that

occurred

the

serged scrap.

Next, set

the

tensions back

a balanced stitch. Loosen

one

the

looper

tensions and pinch

the

threads

turn

again

while

serging.

Observe

the

changes

the

stitch

formation

Decorative

Thread

Serging

Basic

Three-Thread

Flatlock

Stitch

flatlock

Left

needle

1.0

(wide)

Right

needle

1.0

(narrow)

Upper

looper

4.5

Lower

looper

7.0-

8.0

Differential 0

Knife

3.0- 4.0

Thread

standard

wing

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

any

Stitch

length

3.0

- 4.0

Foot

all

purpose

• Decorative threads can be used in

both

the

needles and

the

loopers.

• Decorative threads vary in

weight,

fiber

, shape and thickness.

• The

thicker

the

thread,

the

lighter

the

tension needed.

• Thickness

thread

usually indicated on

the

spool. The

lower

the

number,

the

thicker

the

thread.

• Heavier decorative threads are used in

the

loopers

only

•

Most

machine

embroidery

threads are #40

#50

weight

and can be used

your

serger needles

loopers.

• Flatlock

technique

which

unbalance

the

stitch

create

the

stitch

that

want

• Flatlock can be used

join

two

fabrics

serged on a

fold

• We can

use

the

stitch

loop

side

the

ladder

side

the

top

side.

•

When

stitching

on a

fold,

anytime

you

don't

want

cut

the

edge,

use

the

guide

foot

guide

your

fabric

and

protect

the

edge.

1/l

L Stitch Loop Side

Ladder Side

•

achieve a

flatlock,

our

needle

thread

tension

loosened and

our

lower

looper

thread

tightened

• The

lower

looper

will

pull

the

needle

thread

across

the

back

the

fabric.

•

Note

the

reverse side

the

stitch,

the

needle

thread

forms

V's

• The

lower

looper

should be almost a

straight

line

the

fabric

edge.

Flatlock Topstitching

Stitch

flatlock

Left

needle

1.5-

2.0

Upper

looper

2.0- 3.0

Lower

looper

7.0

8.0

Differential

0-0

Knife

disabled

Thread

decorative

heavy

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

any

Stitch

length

2.0

5.0

Foot

blind

hem

Flatlock

Applique

Stitch

flatlock

Left

needle

2.0

Upper

looper

2.5

Lower

looper

6.0- 8.0

Differential

0-0.7

Knife

5.0

Thread

decorative

heavy

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

any

Stitch

length

R-

3.5

Foot

blind

hem

• Set

your

machine using

the

settings

below

. Test

your

stitch on a scrap

fabric

and adjust tensions

needed.

• Serger

topstitching

can be

done

the

body

the

fabric

by serging

fold

and

opening

• Serger

topstitching

can be used

seam

two

fabrics

together.

Remember

lay

the

wrong

sides

the

fabr

together

before

serging.

I\ •

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'· . I .

I..

. . 'f_\

,,.,.~,'t,;_~

. .71

1.;

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....

m-y,Nli-

· l1:U~i1t-

. :ii

Flatlock can give a

great

eye-catching finish

a plain edge

ribbon,

lace

fabric

strip

while

attaching

the

same

time

Attach

the

multipurpose

foot

guide

and

test

a scrap

folded

fabric.

Adjust

the

guide

until

the

serger loops

hang

over

the

edge

the

fold

slightly.

Simply

mark

your

fabric

where

you

want

the

applique

. The easiest

way

this

press

the

two

folds

where

you

want

the

applique

fit.

Lay

your

appli

que

piece on

the

fabric,

matching

the

edge

with

the

fold,

and place

under

the

presser

foot

against

the

guide

4. Serge

the

applique

and

fabric

the

end. Cut chain and

open

the

fabric

the

fabric

lays

flat

5. Turn

your

fabric

and

fold

the

second

marking

fold

Make

sure

that

the

applique

piece lays

flat

the

fabric

and meets

the

fold

Place

the

fabric

applique

top

under

the

foot

and against

the

guide.

Serge this side

the

applique

and

fabric

the

end. Cut chain and

open

the

fabric

the

flatlock

lays

straight

Decorative

Lace

and

Tape

Application

Stitch

Left

needle

Upper

looper

Lower

looper

Differential

Knife

Thread

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

Stitch

length

Foot

Rolled

Edge

Stitch

Right

needle

Upper

looper

Lower

looper

Differential

Knife

Thread

Removable

stitch

finger

Fabric

Stitch

length

Foot

flatlock

2.0

2.5

6.0

- 8.0

0.7

3.0- 5.0

decorative

heavy

any

R-

3.5

blind

hem

rolled

edge

4.0

7.5

0.7

6.0

standard

off

soft,

very

lightweight

woven

2.0 - 3.0

all

purpose

These are quick and easy ways

apply

ribbon

lace

garments

craft

projects. Flatlocking lace

the

body

the

edge

your

fabric

adds a

beautiful

look.

Attach

the

multipurpose

foot

guide, set

your

machine using

the

instructions

left

and test a scrap

folded

fabric.

Adjust

the

guide

until

the

serger loops

hang

slightly

over

the

edge

the

fold.

2. Simply

mark

your

fabric

where

you

want

the

lace

be sewn. The easiest

way

this

press a

fold

where

you

will

place

the

lace.

Lay

your

lace on

the

fabric

matching

the

edge

with

the

fold

and place

under

the

presser

foot

against

the

guide.

4. Serge

the

lace and

fabric

the

end. Cut chain and open

the

fold

the

fabric lays

flat

Flatlocking

ribbon

similar

flatlocking

lace. Choose a

ribbon

that

will

fit

between

the

needle and

the

edge

the

fabric. Take care

not

let

the

needle pierce

the

ribbon

while

sewing.

The

rolled

edge and its variations are

probably

the

most used and versatile

all decorative stitches. Variations

the

rolled edge make

the

perfect

hems

edgings

for

napkins, curtains, ruffles, scarves, tablecloths, and

much

more!

left

are

the

set up instructions

for

the

basic rolled edge.

General rules: Tension

and

stitch-length settings will vary with

the

threads

you

use. Knife settings will vary with

the

fabric

you

use.

Napkin

Finish Rolled Edge

(narrow)

Stitch

narrow

rolled

edge

Right

needle

4.0

Upper

looper

5.0

Lower

looper

7.0

Differential

0.07

- 0

Knife

3.0

- 5.0

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

off

Fabric

lightweight

woven

Stitch

length

Foot

all

purpose

Tablecloth Edging

(wide)

Stitch

rolled

edge

wide

Left

needle

4.0

Upper

looper

5.0

Lower

looper

7.0

Differential 0.

- 0

Knife

5.0

6.0

Thread

standard

sewing

Removable

stitch

finger

off

Fabric

light

heavyweight

woven

Stitch

length

R- 3

Foot

all

purpose

• Using

the

set

instructions

left,

set

your

serger

for

rolled

edge

Check

your

manual

for

information

about

removing

the

stitch

finger

• The set

instructions

reflect

tensions using

standard

sewing

thread.

You may have

adjust any

tension

setting

for

changes in

thread

type.

• Always

allow

your

knife

shave

the

edge

your

fabric

creating

even and consistent

fabric

edge.

NOTE: Fabric

that

has an uneven

texture

may

not

be successfully

edged

with

narrow

rolled

hem

• Some fabrics are

too

heavy

too

loosely

woven

roll

successfully using

the

narrow

rolled

hem

• Try

the

set

left

and create a

wide

rolled

hem

•

the

fabric

doesn't roll,

lengthen

the

stitch. The

longer

the

stitch,

the

able

roll a heavier fabric.

• This hem also gives a l

ittle

body

medium

weight

fabric.

Formal

and

Bridal

Wear

Scarf

Edge

Rolled

Hem

Stitc

narrow

rolled

edge

Right

needle

4.0

Upper

loope

4.0

ower

loop

7.5

Differential

0.7

Knife

6.0

read

#40

Remov

abl

itch

finger

off

Fabri

soh,

very

lightweight

woven

Stitch

length

2.0

- 3.0

Foo

all

purpose

Spaghetti

Straps

itc

very

narrow

balanced

Right

needl

4.0

Upper

loo

per 4.0

wer

looper

4.0

Differential 0

Knife

2.0

3.0

hread

standard

sewing

Removable

tch

finger

off

Fabric

lightweight

Stitch

length

2.0

- 3.0

Foot

all

purpose

Beautiful

effects can be created

for

formal

wear

using

your

serger and

few

simple

techniques

•

Chiffon

and satin,

well

other

delicate fabrics,

require

a delicate hem.

• The scarf edge

rolled

hem

perfect

for

these

applications

Spaghetti

straps are a must

for

formal

and

bridal

wear, lingerie, and

many

other

applications

1. Cut 1 ¼" strip

bias

knit

fabric

and

fold

half

lengthwise

2. Place

folded

strip

under

the

presser

foot

(fold

the

left)

and serge

the

two

raw

edges

together

making

sure

leave

least

serger chain.

3. Thread

the

serger chain

through

tapestry

yarn needle eye and

knot

hold

chain securely. (No

appropriate

needle? A

bobby

will

do!)

4. Feed

the

needle

and chain

through

the

inside

the

tube

and

turn

the

strap

right

side

out

you

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