Brassmasters EasiChas Manuel utilisateur

Brassmasters

Scale

Models

www.brassmasters.co.uk

EasiChas

Chassis and Detailing Kit for

Bachmann MR/LMS 1F 0-6-0 Tank

Locomotive

For EM and P4 Gauges only

Instructions

Additional components available separately:

Replacement loco splashers for P4

PO Box 1137 Sutton Coldfield B76 1FU

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -1- September 2016

1 Introduction

1.1 The Easichas frames for the Bachmann 1F locomotive, based on the original concept devised by John Brighton, have

been specifically designed to allow easy conversion to EM or P4 gauge, which results in a fully sprung locomotive. Furthermore,

the basic conversion can be completed without the need to solder any of the main components together.

1.2 The kit is designed to cover the locomotives that had replacement frames, and the numbers on the Bachmann models

are all from these engines. It is possible to use the kit for the earlier frames and there is a half-etched line on the inside of the kit

frames to show the profile of these. The keep plate is also designed to accommodate the earlier frames. However, the builder

will need to provide new firebox sides and a large part of the original Bachmann chassis block will show below the frames.

There are other minor differences including a curved front edge to the frame above the footplate.

The locomotives with replacement frames were:

1661, 1686, 1698, 1699, 1702, 1708, 1709, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1720, 1724, 1725, 1726, 1734, 1736, 1739, 1745, 1746, 1749,

1752, 1753, 1754, 1763, 1773, 1777, 1803, 1804 (all with 40000 added under BR).

1.3 There are various levels of conversion with the builder choosing which, of any, additional detail is required beyond the

basic conversion.

1.4 Basic level of conversion makes use of:

fold-up mainframes, keep plate and ashpan with sprung bearings

1.5 Further components are provided to add to the detail of the conversion. These are, working from the front:

buffer beam brackets front and rear that support the sandboxes

replacement coupling rods

replacement brake hangers and blocks

replacement brake pull rods and brake shaft

replacement bunker coal rails

1.6 Unfortunately, it is not possible to re-use the Bachmann loco pick-ups on this EasiChas. A suggested method for

making pick-ups for the loco has been given, which has worked very successfully on the test build, although there are many

other methods which the builder may prefer to use.

1.7 Suitable wheels are available from Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Markits. Alan Gibson do a standard replacement wheel

pack using 3mm axles. This allows re-use of the original gear wheel without modification. Ultrascale and Markits use 1/8” axles,

which means that if these wheels are used, the gear wheel will require drilling out (a relatively easy task and can be done using

hand tools). If using Ultrascale or Markits wheels, the bearings in the kit will need to be returned to Brassmasters, who will

replace them with a 1/8” set.

2 General Notes

2.1 There is just one etch for the EasiChas and detail. Numbers shown in square brackets [ ] in the instructions refer to the

etch. The part number appears on the etch diagram at the end of these instructions. Certain parts, e.g. bolts, wire, springs, are

not numbered.

2.2 Some of the parts are small and easily damaged, so do please take care. Parts should be removed from the sheets as

and when needed by use of a small scalpel etc., and the tabs and etch cusp removed with a small fine-cut file.

2.3 All folds and bends are made with the half-etched line on the inside unless otherwise stated.

2.4 On some parts it is necessary to emboss rivet / bolt heads from the reverse sides by use of a punch.

2.5 There are half-etched test rivet holes on the back of the etch edging strip. Use these to get used to forming uniform

rivets.

2.6 You should look at instruction 5.1 regarding pre-preparing the wheels before commencing building.

2.7 User guide

We have created a user guide on our website –www.brassmasters.co.uk. In which we have taken advantage of the medium to

provide more detail than we can include in traditional paper-based Instructions. In particular, it includes selected prototype

photographs which are quick and easy to view. We hope you will find this new way of presenting our instructions helpful when

building your model, and welcome your comments on it. It is an excellent way to familiarise yourself with the kit, particularly

since the constructional photographs are reproduced to a much larger size than those included below. The close-up pictures of

the preserved 41708 should be particularly helepful.

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -2- September 2016

3 Before you start

3.1 Tools Required

A selection of cross head and normal miniature screwdrivers

Small pliers

Small plastic bags and labels to identify parts and screws when dismantling

Small files

Soldering iron (for electrical connections)

A steel rule

Back to Back wheel gauge

Plastic solvent, superglue and epoxy resin (24 hour and 5 minute)

3.2 In all cases bag and label all small parts and source of screws as soon as removed (they are all different) - trust us on

this one!

4 Dismantling the Locomotive

4.1 Unscrew the front and rear screws, pull the chassis vertically to remove it from the body.

4.2 To remove the keeper plate (with brakes attached), remove the remaining screws to allow the keeper plate to be

removed and remove the wheels. Remove the glued-on sandboxes (by twisting with pliers) and sand pipes from the keeper

plate. Store these for use later.

4.3 With the wheels removed from the chassis,

unscrew the machine screws from the wheels and

remove the coupling rods. Put the screws back into

the wheels for safekeeping. The chassis should now

look like the photo. De-grease the chassis sides.

4.4 Hold the centre wheels and with a twisting

pulling motion pull off the wheels from the axle. Also,

slide off the brass bush.

4.5 Place the axle with centre gear in a vice

such that the gear wheel is supported on the vice sides but the axle is loose, tap the axle with a hammer or similar and the gear

wheel will slide off the axle. If you do not have a vice use a pair of pliers on one side of the gear wheel, gently slide the plastic

gear down and off the axle by holding the axle vertical and pressing down. It is very important not to damage this gear.

4.6 You will now have a box of bits and an invalid Bachmann guarantee!

5 Basic loco conversion

5.1 If you are using Alan Gibson wheels you may need to drill

the crankpin holes using a 0.65mm drill. The hole must be

perpendicular to the wheel. The following will prevent problems with

loose crankpins. Countersink the rear of the crankpin screw holes

using a 3mm drill and half screw the 12BA screws home. Using 24

hour epoxy smear the remaining thread and screw the 12BA screws

home. Smear a little epoxy over the head for additional security but

there should not be a big blob that will catch on wheel rotation. Leave

in a warm place for 24 hours to set. This will retain the screws and

stop them from rotating. See photo (before the epoxy was applied) of

a larger diameter but similar wheel.

5.2 Identify all the items within the main frame

[L1], remove them and store them safely. Remove

the loco mainframes [L1] and clean up the residual

tabs with a small file.

5.3 Place the frames flat on the bench and with

a thin metal rule fold to produce a ‘U’ section. Either

again using a ruler or using a strong pair of pliers,

fold up the small sections along the edge of the main

frames at 90 degrees. File off the ‘cusp’ at the end of these top fold sections. Then fold up both end sections making

sure that the bends are at right angles. See Photo

5.4 Ensure the mainframes fit over the original Bachmann

chassis. The frames should sit parallel to the Bachmann frames

and not be ‘splayed’ out at the top. If necessary, file the top strips

back to ensure this. See Photo. Remove the mainframes.

5.5 Check the fit of the brass bearings into the slots in the

mainframes. If tight, using a smooth sharp file lightly file away

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -3- September 2016

the cusp equally on both of the edges of the slots until the bearing slides up and down with no binding. It is very important that

too much metal is not removed resulting in a sloppy fit –no side play whatsoever is the aim, just a smooth sliding fit.

5.6 Fold up the front mounting bracket [L2] and the rear mounting bracket [L3]. Check that they fit in the recess at each

end of the Bachmann chassis and that the bottom edges will fit flush with the bottom of the chassis block.

5.7 Identify all the items within and

attached to the outside of the keep plate

[L4], remove them and store them

safely. Remove the keep plate [L4].

Fold down the three dummy springs

along each side of the keep plate and

then fold up the two sections between

the leading and middle axles. Finally,

fold the four ashpan tabs down until

they are at 45 degrees to the keep

plate.

5.7 Test fit the keeper plate and the frames to the Bachmann chassis, and then put the two mounting brackets in place and

ensure that the holes line up with those in the frames and keeper plate. Put a 10 BA screw through the holes nearest to the

chassis in the front and back brackets and fit a nut from the bottom. Now fit the assembly to the Bachmann body and make sure

that the holes in the assembly match up with the holes in the body. Any misalignment can be corrected with slight adjustment to

the bends in the brackets, frames and keep plate. The original Bachmann screws are used to mount the body on the frames.

5.8 Unless you are using the replacement etched brake gear, fold up the ‘cups’ on the frame sides and keep plate front

that will hold the Bachmann plastic brake hangers so that they form a flat bottom gentle ‘L’ shape with a slight sloping upright.

IMPORTANT - Carefully examine the bearings as they are not symmetrical. It can be seen that the flange on one side of the

slot is wider than the other side. For EM gauge, the bearings need to be mounted in the frames with the thicker flange towards

the centre of the frames. For P4 gauge, the bearings need to be mounted with the thinner flange towards the centre of the

frames. Increased side-play on the drivers can be obtained by having the thin side of the bearings on the outside or rubbing off

the circular beading round the axle hole. For EM gauge, it will be necessary to file off the raised rim on the inside face of the

bearings to ensure the bearings move up and down freely.

5.9 Again fit the mainframes and

brackets to the Bachmann chassis, place the

bearings in the slots and check for easy

movement. See Photo in section 5.4.

5.10 Temporarily fit the keep plate, using

the 10BA screws and nuts. Ensure the

bearings slide to the bottom of each slot in the

keep plate.

5.11 It is now time to fit the front and rear

brackets to the chassis. Firstly, attach the 10BA nuts over the tops of the holes holding them in place using the 10BA screws (if

soldering, put oil on the threads to prevent the screws being soldered as well). Apply a smear of epoxy or cyocryanolate to the

mating face on the bracket and place in position so that the bottom of the bracket is flush with the bottom on the chassis

(remember, any more than a smear will displace the bracket holes for lining up with the frames and keep plate). (We actually did

this with the frames mounted on the chassis to hold the brackets in the correct position)

The front 10BA screw will foul the screw on the Bachmann body. Either shorten the front

screw level with the top of the nut or remove the Bachmann screw (there are four others

holding the body to the footplate.

5.12 Take the new 3mm axles and test fit them,

firstly in the axleboxes (if tight ream them out to

3mm using a reamer or, if you do not have one, a

small round file, a precision drill or a broach), then

place each through the axleboxes and through the

“slots” in the Bachmann chassis block. If the axles

catch the side of the chassis block, file away the

offending part of the block.

5.13 If you are using Alan Gibson wheels you may

find the axles are slightly over length for P4. They need

to be approximately 22.1 mm long. You will also need to

re-use the Bachmann axle gear wheel. Fit the worm

wheel onto the new axle by gentle pushing the

gearwheel onto the axle, ensuring that the gear wheel is

offset on the axle preferably with the larger shoulder

towards the centreline of the chassis. It is essential that the same amount of axle should be

protruding each side of the chassis when it is fitted because clearances behind the splashers

are small. See photo.

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -4- September 2016

5.14 Take the axles and file the sharp edges off the end to a rounded profile. Use a drill bit of around 5mm diameter to

chamfer the rear of each wheel axle hole. These two actions help the axle to ‘centre’ in the wheel when they are pressed on.

Mount the bearings on all axles the correct way round, adding any spacing washers required (there will be about 1.2mm

lateral movement on an axle with no washers in 18.83 gauge –so not many washers are required). For both EM and P4 we

suggest one full washer on each side of the leading and trailing wheels. Finally, press the wheels on the axles.

5.15 Press the wheels home with a back-to-back gauge between the wheels. This gauge should be an interference fit

between the wheel backs with no ‘slop’. Ensure this is so by turning each wheel through 90 degrees to check for wobble, and, if

present, twist the wheel. The Gibson axles are a little shorter than the distance between wheel bosses (about 0.25mm each

side) so do not press them fully home. Quarter the wheels with the right hand wheel leading the left hand wheel by 90 degrees.

We do this by setting the driven axle first so a wheel spoke is horizontal on one side and vertical at the other, then each other

wheelset fitted is lined up with the horizontal spoke, the

chassis turned over very carefully, and the spoke on the other

side lined up by eye against those on the driven axle.

5.16 Place the bearing springs over the tongues on the

frames (a small dab of grease on the spring will keep it in

place). Fit the wheelsets into the main frames and attach the

keep plate. See Photo. Check that the motor turns the middle

wheelset with no sign of any binding by applying power to the

motor. Check the wheels spring freely with no binding and

test fit to the plastic body. Remove the springs and put them

safe while working on the rods and checking for free running.

5.17 Glue or solder the two brake shaft

brackets [L5]to the outside of the frame

using a piece of 0.6mm wire to ensure

alignment.

5.18 Push through the four rivets in each

guard iron [L6] and [L7] for the front, [L8]

and [L9] for the rear and form to a slight ‘S’

shape. Glue or solder the front ones inside

the frames at the front (there is a mark on the frames) with the curved face towards

the rear, and the rear ones at the back (again there is a mark on the frames) with the

curved face towards the front.

5.19 Using about a 3mm diameter rod (or an axle or even the shank

of a jeweller’s screwdriver) as a former, curve up the half-etched sides

of the ash pan [L10] and [L11] with the half-etch to the inside.

5.20 If you are going to fit the fully etched version of the brake

blocks and hangers it is easiest to do this now so jump to section 7.3.

Coupling rods

5.21 Fit the Bachmann coupling rods with the six bushes provided.

This will require each hole to be opened up to with a rat-tail round file to

accept the bushes, if you are careful, these can be an interference fit. If

not, the bushes have to be soldered or glued with epoxy centrally in

place and if needed reamed out to take the Gibson crankpin bushes

(see photo).

A finer scale solution is to solder up a new set of coupling rods, but this of course takes longer (see section 7.1).

5.22 Fit the rods and temporarily secure with a piece of

electrical wire sleeve (this does not come unscrewed unlike a

proper 14BA nut! We couldn’t find any for the photo so it had to be

the 14BA nuts) The rod with the joint (as Photo) is the trailing rod

on both sides. Check that all the wheels now turn without binding

when power is applied to the motor and are quartered correctly.

5.23 Fit the six springs above the axleboxes to achieve a fully

sprung chassis. Even though theoretically impossible, the front

springs can disappear from a completed loco. A drop of 5 minute

epoxy at their extreme top where they bear onto the chassis will

secure them –trust us on this one!

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -5- September 2016

Electrical pick-ups

5.24 It is not possible to re-use the Bachmann pick-ups so you will

need to fabricate your own. Many modellers have their own ideas on

pick-ups; this is how we do it. Using a copperclad sleeper (cut to fit

between the keeper plate springs) and 33 swg phosphor bronze wire (not

supplied but available from Eileen’s Emporium), wind a ‘spring’ shape

with extended end. We clamp a fine screwdriver in the vice and, holding

the wire one end in the fingers and the other in a pair of round nose

pliers, form the spring round the screw driver shaft. Note one pickup is wound clockwise, one anti-clockwise. Solder to the

copperclad (gapping it after soldering) as per the photo.

5.25 Glue the pick-ups to the chassis keeper plate

in the position shown in the photo so they gently press

onto the wheel flanges. Test the polarity and direction

of travel with another loco and connect together with

brass wire and to the motor with wire. Test run with and

without the body fitted. When happy, remove the

temporary crank pins, shorten the bushes and fit the

crankpin bushes (note, if you are going to fit new

coupling rods as per section 7.1 do NOT shorten the

bushes). Note: the photo is of a similar arrangement

on a different loco.

5.26 Re-fit the loco body.

Brakes

5.27 There are several options for the brakes. The simplest is to re-use the

plastic brake blocks, brake pull rods and the brake shaft. The next is to use the

plastic brake blocks with the etched pull rods and brake shaft components, or

finally the replacement etched brake gear. For the second or third options please

see section 7.3. The simplest method is shown below.

5.28 Carefully cut the brake blocks and brake shaft, complete with pull rods,

off the Bachmann keeper plate by sawing next to the main part of the centre solid

section. See photo.

5.29 Clean up the cut line on the plastic brake hangers to ensure there are

no raised edges and if necessary shorten the plastic hanger back ‘studs’ (that fit in the ‘cups’) so they line up with the wheel

treads. Remember the chassis is sprung and the wheels will move upwards under the loco weight. Drill a 0.6mm hole in the

centre of the brake shaft part way through from the cut edge.

5.30 The brake shaft can be

assembled as detailed in 7.2 or simply a

piece of 0.6mm wire threaded through

the holes in the brake shaft brackets

and fixed in place, so that about 3mm

protrudes each side.

5.31 Attach the front brakes only

to the brake hanger saddles on the keep

plate using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy

resin.

5.32 Carefully fit the keep plate to

the frames flexing the rigging so that the

middle and trailing brake blocks rest in

their saddles on the frames, and push

the plastic brake shafts over the

protruding 0.6mm wire through the

brake shaft brackets.

Balance weights

5.33 There two types of wheel balance weights, a block type and a crescent type. Check photographs of your chosen loco

and decide which type are fitted to which wheel (they were mixed on some locos).

5.34 Carefully remove and clean up with a file the required balance weights (block type driving wheel [L12], block type

leading and trailing [L13], crescent type driving [L14], crescent type leading and trailing [L15]) and then attach these to the

wheels using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin, again using photos as a positioning guide (see www.rail-online.co.uk for a

selection of photos).

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -6- September 2016

Sandboxes

5.35 The Bachmann sandboxes are the correct shape, although the fillers should be offset

towards the wheels slightly (0.3 mm). These can be simply refitted to the frames or, if fitting the

buffer beam brackets (see section 7.4), fitted to these.

5.36 Grip the sand pipes with a pair of pliers and remove them from the sandboxes. Straighten

the end where it went into the sandbox. Drill a 0.7 mm hole in the bottom of the box 2 mm from the

rear edge and on the centre line for the sand pipe.

5.37 The sandboxes need spacing off the frames. Cut a piece of 0.4 mm plastic strip and a

piece of 0.25 mm plastic strip 6 mm long and attach to the back of the Bachmann sandboxes using

cyanoacrylate glue, epoxy resin or butanone. File the plastic spacer to the same shape as the

Bachmann sandboxes.

5.38 Attach the sandboxes to the frame using cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy resin. They are positioned so that the top of the

sandbox is level with the bottom of the slots in the frame, the front box being 2 mm from the front edge of the frames and rear

box being just under 4 mm from the back edge of the frame. Note: the plastic strip will need cutting back on the rear boxes

to clear the brake shaft bracket.

5.39 Refit the Bachmann sand pipes or make new ones from 0.7mm wire.

5.40 Fit the frames to the loco chassis and then screw the keep plate into place using the 10BA screws, then fit the

assembly to the loco body and screw into place using the original Bachmann screws.

5.41 And that is the basic EasiChas complete.

6 Not used

7 Additional components

The following additional items are provided in the kit and may be used if the builder requires.

7.1 Replacement coupling rods

7.1.1 Each side is manufactured from four etches and hinged behind the centre crank pin. There are also overlays for the

bosses. The left hand side and right hand side rods are the same.

7.1.2 Cut one pair of leading coupling rods from fret [L16 & L17].

7.1.3 Open the crankpin holes using a 1.5 mm drill. When complete drill a hole using

the same size drill perpendicular in a scrap piece of wood. Leave the drill in the hole in

the wood. Tin the mating surfaces of a pair of coupling rods and place over the drill. This

holds one end of the rods accurately ready for soldering. It is critical to align the two

halves exactly in order to make one rod so take some time tweaking. See photo.

7.1.4 Place a little flux along the top surface of the rod and apply heat; the solder on

the soldering iron will run down between the rods and join them. The secret is to apply

only a little solder at a time. Solder will fill the “cusp” and give the impression of a solid

rod. See photo left. Repeat for the whole length of the rod.

7.1.5 Next cut one pair of trailing coupling rods [L18} and [L19] and assemble in the

same way keeping the forked end clear of solder.

7.1.6 Repeat for the other leading and trailing rods.

7.1.7 There are two different boss overlays for the front rods and another two for the rear rods. Working from the front of the

locomotive, half-etched boss overlays [L20] are fitted to both the inside and outside of the front coupling rod boss and half-

etched large bosses [L21] are fitted to the inside and outside of the front of the centre boss. The half-etched fork overlays [L22]

are fitted to the inside and outside of the forked end of the back rod. Finally, half-etched boss overlays [L20] are fitted to the

inside and outside of the trailing end boss. Using the appropriate bosses, apply each boss holding it in place with a cocktail stick

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -7- September 2016

and solder in place using the same technique as for joining the rods. Clean up each rod with files. Carefully blend the bosses

into the front face of the rods.

7.1.8 The rear length of each rod has a knuckle joint to be manufactured.

The front and rear rods are joined with a short length of 0.9 mm nickel silver

wire pushed through from the front and then cropped back on the rear.

leaving about 0.5 mm proud. See photo.

7.1.9 To stop solder flooding the joint apply a little oil to the surfaces not

to be soldered - this will prevent the solder running into the joint. Keep the rear of the rod clean. Solder can then be quickly

applied with a very hot iron to the back of the rod to fix the wire in place. Clean off excess solder leaving enough to keep a

strong joint. See photo above of completed rods.

7.1.10 Repeat for the other rods on the other side of the loco, using the same part numbers.

7.1.11 Open up the crankpin

holes so that the crankpin bushes

will rotate in the rod. This can be

done with a reamer, broach or a

fine Swiss file

7.1.12 Fit the rods to the wheels

and test run. A comparison

between the Bachmann rods

(lower) and the replacements is

shown in the photo.

7.2 Brake shaft

Note: it is possible to remove the keep plate if the fitting brake shaft as the bends in the frames and keep plate have

been designed to allow this.

7.2.1 The brake shaft can be made up with or without the handbrake lever and the steam brake lever between the frames,

and either with the original Bachmann outer brake shaft and brake pull rod levers or replacement ones.

7.2.2 Cut a piece of 0.6 mm wire 22 mm long.

7.2.3 If not fitting the handbrake lever and steam brake lever, cut a piece of 1.2 mm

tube to fit between the brake shaft brackets on the frames. Insert between the frames,

feed the 0.6 mm wire through one frame, through the tube and through the other frame,

soldering all in place with an equal amount of 0.6 mm wire protruding each side.

7.2.4 If fitting the hand brake lever, cut two pieces of 1.2 mm tube 11 mm and 2 mm

long.

7.2.5 Starting from the brake shaft bracket on the left hand side looking forwards, put

the piece of 0.6 mm wire through the bracket, then slide over the inner end of the wire the

spacing washer [L23], then the half-etched washer [L24], then the handbrake lever [L25],

then the 11 mm length of 1.2 mm tube, then the steam brake lever [L26]. File the 2mm length of tube to fit between the steam

brake lever and the other brake shaft bracket. Finally push the 0.6 mm wire through the short length of tube, and then through

the brake shaft bracket on the other side of the frame. Ensure the steam brake lever is the correct way up.

7.2.6 Take the two handbrake pull rods [L27] and [L28] and open out the

holes to clear 0.5 mm wire. Then fold the half-etched top piece of [L27] back on

itself on the opposite side to the full etched piece. Drill a 0.5 mm drill vertically

into a piece of scrap wood then first place [L28] over the drill with the full etched

piece upwards and then [L27] with the full etched piece downwards, align the

two on top of each other and solder together.

7.2.7 With the handbrake lever orientated so that the fold over top section is

adjacent to the nearest frame, put an over length piece of 0.6 mm wire through

the handbrake pull rods and the hand brake lever, adjust the rod and lever angle

as shown in the diagram and attach the handbrake lever to the frame (the top of

the lever should be level with the bottom edge of the slots in the frame for the

buffer beam brackets and should rest against the edge of the guard iron).

7.2.8 Attach the steam brake lever to the underside of the frame cross

piece.

7.2.9 Ensuring that an equal amount of 0.6 mm wire is protruding either side

of the frames, solder the wire, tube and levers in place. Solder the wire through

the joint in the handbrake lever and trim back both sides.

7.2.10 Open out the holes in the pull rod levers [L29] and pull rod lever spacers [L30] to 0.6 mm.

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -8- September 2016

7.2.11 Drill a 0.6 mm hole vertically in a piece of scrap wood. Insert a piece of 0.6 mm wire and then place over the wire a pull

rod lever [L29], a pull rod lever spacer [L30] and another pull rod lever [L29]. Using a piece of 0.6 mm wire in the smaller hole to

align the two parts of the lever, solder the pull rod lever together. Repeat for the second lever.

7.3 Replacement brake blocks and hangers

7.3.1 The plastic brakes are rather nicely moulded. However metal replacement brake hangers can be fitted if the Bachmann

brake hangers are lost or a metal replacement is preferred. Remember plastic does not produce an electrical short and the

wheels are sprung., so move vertically!

7.3.2 If fitting the etched replacement brake hangers/blocks, the brake gear needs to be removable otherwise it is impossible

to remove the wheels.

7.3.3 Take the brake hangers [L31] and the left hand brake block overlays [L32]. Open up the holes in the top, middle and

bottom of the brake hangers, the top to clear 0.5 mm wire, the middle to clear 0.7 mm wire and the bottom to clear 0.6 mm wire.

7.3.4 Solder together the brake hangers [L31] and the left hand brake block overlays [L32], utilising a short piece of 0.7mm

wire in the centre hole to assist alignment. Trim the wire to length. Repeat for the right hand brake hangers using parts [L31]

and [L33].

7.3.5 Remove the wheels and EasiChas from the Bachmann chassis

block. Cut and file off the ‘saddles’ that would have been used to re-fit the

plastic Bachmann brakes on the frames and remove the two forward

extensions that support the saddles on the front of the keeper plate.

7.3.6 Attach three pieces of 0.5 mm wire to form the support wires across

the mainframes using the holes provided protruding and equal amount (at

least 5 mm) beyond the frames on both sides. If using the later type of brake

hanger bracket, slide the brake hanger bracket inner etches, [L34] for left

hand side, [L35] for the right hand side, over the wire and solder to the

frames with the vertical longer face leading (see photo in 7.3.23).

7.3.7 Cut six short pieces (around 1.0 –1.5 mm) of 1.0 mm tube. Slide

one piece onto either side of the leading support wire

7.3.8 Place a brake hanger/block on each side of the leading wire and

position them the correct distance in to suit the wheels you are using. Slide

the tube up to the brake hanger/block. Remove the brake hangers and solder the tube to the wire. Repeat for the centre and

trailing wheels.

7.3.9 Cut three pieces of 0.6 mm wire 28 mm long to form the brake tie

bars.

7.3.10 There are two ways now to attach the brake hanger assemblies to

the brake tie bars (not the support wires).

7.3.11 The easiest is to make up a jig from a piece of wood, plastikard etc.

the same distance across as the outside measurement of the tube soldered

to the support wires in 7.3.8.

(We used a piece of wood with the ends squared off, with the brake hangers

held in place with blu-tac).

7.3.11.1 One of each hand of brake block is then attached to each side of the jig with the bottom end protruding beyond the jig.

7.3.11.2 A length of 0.6 mm wire is then put through the holes in the bottom of the brake block assembly, with an equal amount

protruding each side. Solder the wire in place.

7.3.11.3 Repeat for the other two brake block/tie bar assemblies.

7.3.12 The less easy way is to assemble the brake block/tie bar assemblies in position.

7.3.12.1 This is done with the wheels in place. If you get flux on the treads of the wheels they will rust –we protect them with a

thin piece of masking tape during this process.

7.3.12.2 With the frames upside down, position the two brake hangers on the leading support wire. Slide a piece of 0.6 mm

wire through the bottom hole of both brake hangers.

7.3.12.3 Holding one of the leading brake hangers vertically resting against the wheel, solder it to the 0.6 mm wire (not to the

brake hanger cross wire). Repeat for the other side.

7.3.12.4 Repeat for the other two brake block/tie bar assemblies.

7.3.13 Check that the brake hangers are in the correct position across the face of the wheels. If not, adjust either the 0.6 mm

tie bar or the small piece of tube on the cross wire, or both.

Brassmasters Bachmann 1F EasiChas –v 1.0 -9- September 2016

7.3.14 Having made sure that there is a good soldered joint between the cross wire and the frames, with a piercing saw cut

the brake hanger wire between the frames. As long as the first cut is made with a saw, the wires can then be trimmed back with

cutters. Note –the first cut must not be made with cutters.

7.3.15 Take the two brake pull rods [L36]

and [L37] and attach the leading and centre

pull rod overlays [L38] to the inside of the pull

rod (the inside is the side which has a part

half-etched at the rear end). Attach a rear pull

rod inner overlay [L39] to the inside of the pull

rods and a rear pull rod outer overlay [L40] to

the outside of the pull rods. Drill out all the

holes 0.6 mm.

7.3.16 Place the two brake pull rods

over the tie rods on each side of the

brake blocks and adjust sideways to give

sufficient clearance so as not to touch the

wheels when they are at the limit of their

sideplay. Pull the leading tie rod forwards

to give sufficient clearance between the

brake block and the wheel and solder

one of the pull rods to the tie rods.

Repeat for the other side pull rod. If you

are still happy with the clearances, solder

the pull rods to all the other tie rods.

7.3.17 Measure the distance between the frames and the inside of the pull rods.

Cut two pieces of 1.2 mm tube to these lengths less 0.4 mm if no brake shaft

bracket overlays are fitted, or less 0.6 mm if they are.

7.3.18 Take the pull rod levers and cut the 0.6 mm wire to half the length of the

of the 1.2 mm tube and solder the pull rod levers into the tube. Trim the out wire

back flush with the outside of the levers.

7.3.19 Cut back the 0.6 mm wire through the brake shaft to just short of the same

length so that the tube and pull rod levers fit over the wire and but up to the face of

the brake shaft bracket on the frames.

7.3.20 Using two short pieces of 0.5 mm wire, mount the pull rod ends [L41] in the fork of the pull rod lever so that the half

etch part of the pull rod ends are outwards.

7.3.21 Adjust the angle of the pull rod

levers to approximately 15 degrees (see

photos). Solder the half-etched sections

of the pull rod end to the pull rod, then

solder the wire through the joint between

the pull rod end and the pull rod lever.

Do not solder the tube to the frames.

Repeat for the other side.

7.3.22 The early type brake hanger

brackets (outer only) were not included

on the main etch. These will be provided

on an additional etch.

7.3.23 Finally attach the brake hanger bracket outer etches. For the early type, [E1] for the

left hand front and rear, [E2] for the left hand middle, [E3] for the right hand front and rear

and [E4] for the right hand middle. For the later type, [L42] for left hand side, [L43] for the

right hand side. Place over the wire on the outside of the brake hangers and solder in place.

Trim back and file the support wire to the outside of the brake hanger. The brake hangers

should just clip off the ends of the cross wires.

The photo shows the position of the later type brake hanger brackets on a similar loco.

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