Blichmann Engineering Fermenator G4 Instructions d'installation

Fermenator G4 V2© Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2021

For replacement parts, visit: blichmannengineering.com/genuine-replacement-parts 1

Fermenator™G4

Assembly, Operation, & Maintenance

Congratulations on your purchase and thank you for selecting the

Fermenator™ G4 from Blichmann Engineering™. We are condent that

it will provide you years of service and many gallons of outstanding beer.

This manual will familiarize you with the use, assembly, and the sanita-

tion procedures for the product.

Sections labeled “Warning” can lead to serious injury or death if not followed. Please thoroughly read these sections and

understand them completely before use. If you do not understand them or have any questions, contact your retailer or Blichmann

Engineering (www.BlichmannEngineering.com) before use.

Sections labeled “Caution” can lead to equipment damage or unsatisfactory performance of the equipment. Please read these

sections thoroughly. If you have any questions, contact your retailer or Blichmann Engineering (www.BlichmannEngineering.com)

before use.

Sections labeled “Important” should specically be followed to ensure satisfactory results with the product.

WARNING:

CAUTION:

IMPORTANT:

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

PLEASE READ AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL PRIOR TO USE

FOR IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION!

ABOUT THIS MANUAL

This manual is for the G4-7 gallon, 14 gallon, 19 gallon, and 1 BBL tri-clamp models.

This manual is broken down into the following sections:

Assembly: Proper assembly procedures to ensure reliable, safe, leak-free operation of your G4 Fermenator™. Be sure to read the sanitizing

section before the rst use your Fermenator™since most parts are sanitized before assembly. We recommend an initial assembly

to familiarize you with the process prior to your rst use.

Sanitation: Steps to properly sanitize your fermentor before each use.

Operation: Techniques to get the most out of your fermentor.

Storage & Maintenance: Get years of service by properly maintaining and storing your fermentor.

Fermenator G4 V2© Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2021

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CLEANING AND SANITATION

After you have received your new equipment and removed it from the box it is very important that you properly clean the

equipment thoroughly with a general detergent such as Dawn dish soap. This will remove any debris and oils that may have been

left behind from shipping and the manufacturing processes.

Cleaning and sanitizing all your home brew equipment before every use is an important aspect of brewing. Using good cleaners

and sanitizers can make the diﬀerence between having a great beer and a spoiled one. Good preparation for your upcoming

brew day is key. Make a checklist of the equipment you will be using and note whether it needs to be sanitized or only cleaned. In

prepping for your brew day, always make sure your equipment is ready to go when you are.

What’s In the Box? Item Number Description Quantity

G4 Fermenator™ 1

BE-001740-00 Tri-Clamp Thermometer 1

FV-065-00 Racking Arm 1

BE-001797-00 Aseptic Valve Assembly 1

BE-001717-00 #8 Stopper 1

BE-500019-00 Airlock 1

FV-029-00 4”x 1.5”Adapter 1

BE-000863-00 1.5”TC Elbow 1

BE-000865-00 1.5”TC Buttery Valve 1

BE-000630-00 1.5”TC Cap 3

BE-000627-00 1”x 1”Barb 1

BE-000633-00 1.5”TC Clamp 8

BE-000868-00 1.5”Gasket 8

BE-001739-00 4”TC Clamp 1

BE-001738-00 4”TC Gasket 1

BE-001758-00 Foot 3

BE-001782-00 Squirt Bottle 1

Please check your box to make sure you have

received all parts.

NOTE: Some parts will be partially assembled

to protect them during shipment.

ALWAYS START WITH A CLEANING AGENT

Before you do any sanitizing, you need to thoroughly clean your equipment. Sanitizers do not work on equipment with soils on

the surface, and bacteria and wild yeasts will remain. It is always best to immediately wash your equipment after use while the

soils are soft and easier to remove.

There are a number of good cleaning agents on the market. One Step™, Straight-A™, and Powdered Brewery Wash™ (PBW) are

three of the most popular. These products may be used on bottles, fermenters, and other equipment. Cleansers should be rinsed

after use. Don’t soak your equipment in a cleansing solutions for longer than the time recommended on the packaging or you can

damage your equipment.

As with ALL chemicals, ALWAYS thoroughly read the instructions, material compatibility, and safety warnings. Never use more

than the recommended concentrations or soaking times or you may damage your equipment.

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CLEANING STAINLESS STEEL

For general cleaning of stainless steel, mild unscented detergents, PBW, or percarbonate-based cleaners are

excellent choices. Bleach should not be used to clean or sanitize stainless steel as it will corrode and pit them.

SANITIZING

Only when your equipment is clean, can you sanitize it.

All items that contact the wort or beer below 140F need to be sanitized.This includes the fermentor (including the lid), airlock,

rubber stopper, yeast rehydration or starter container, thermometer, funnel, spoon, and siphon etc. On bottling day, bottles,

caps, hoses etc. also need to be sanitized. Chemical sanitizers can be prepared in a bucket and used throughout the brew day.

Chemical sanitizers are by far the most common. Most can be used on metal, plastics and glass. Most do not require rinsing; a

good feature since your tap water, particularly well water, may contain small amounts of bacteria. Again, always follow the

manufacturer’s recommendations for concentration, contact time, and the need to rinse before use.

Five Star Chemical’s™ StarSan™ is one of the most popular sanitizers on the market. Always use according to the

manufacturer’s directions.

If you have a particularly tough stain, liked burned malt extract, stains, or other buildup, Barkeepers Friend (oxalic acid) works

very well to remove them from metallic surfaces.This product is available at your local grocery store.

AFTER USE CLEANING

For keeping your equipment clean and looking new, we strongly recommend cleaning immediately after brewing as soils and

residue will be much easier to remove before it dries. Never toss components in a bucket of cleaning agents“to clean tomorrow”

as these chemicals may damage the product if you exceed the recommended contact time.

Once you’ve thoroughly cleaned your stainless products, wipe them dry with a towel and let them air dry thoroughly. A clean

surface will instantly passivate once it is dry, leaving a durable corrosion resistant surface.

CLEAN IN PLACE (CIP)

The Blichmann CIP Spray Ball was speciﬁcally designed for use with homebrewing pumps and works great to quickly remove

heavy soil from the fermentor after fermentation. Please refer to the product’s manual for more information. Some surfaces and

components, like the lid seal and upper tri-clamp gaskets may need to be sanitized individually after a sanitizer wash is circulated.

Other attachments, including valves, carb stones, thermo-wells, and caps will need to be cleaned and sanitized individually by

soaking/scrubbing as needed.

WARNING: Do NOT use any cleaner or sanitizer containing chlorine such as bleach.This will pit and erode stainless steel.

If the ball valves ever begin to drip, remove the handle and tighten the packing nut under the handle. If this persists, replacement

valve seal kits are available through your retailer.

PASSIVATION

Passivation is a natural chemical reaction with the chromium used in stainless steel and oxygen in the air. As long as stainless steel

can react with oxygen, a‘passive’chromium oxide will form on the surface protecting the metal from corrosion. All of our products

have been passivated, but common manufacturing processes may leave free iron and an isolated area of corrosion may form. If

this happens, it is recommended to passivate the tank. This can be as easy as scrubbing the eﬀected area with a scouring pad or

household chemicals can be used. Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) is very eﬀective at maintaining a passive surface on stainless steel. It

aids in passivation of stainless steel and will help remove iron oxides. A routine scrub with BKF will keep the surface prepped for

years to come.

Thoroughly dry all seals and o-rings and store them in a plastic bag and place inside the tank for the next use. Be sure to remove

all the o-rings from the ﬁttings to prevent from taking a“set”. Install the lid and V-band clamp (without seal) to prevent dust from

settling inside the unit during storage.

John Palmer also has a more in depth discussion about removing rust and how to passivate stainless steel at this link -

https://tinyurl.com/passivation

Fermenator G4 V2© Blichmann Engineering, LLC 2021

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NOTE: We recommend a trial assembly of your new Fermenator™ G4 before using it to ferment so you are familiar with the procedures

and are sure you have all the parts. When you are ready to use the fermentor for an actual brewing session, read the sanitizing

procedures before assembling your Fermenator™since many parts are sanitized before assembly.

NOTE: Some of the components have not been pre-assembled at the factory to prevent shipping damage.

BOTTOM DUMP

Assemble the bottom dump assembly as shown in Figure 1 using a 1.5”gasket between each ﬂange. Orient the clamps and valve as

shown so that they clear the ﬂoor and tank and do not interfere with the rotation of the valve handle. Be sure the handle of the valve

faces up, and that the handle rotates outward. Then attach the assembly onto the tank, again using a 1.5”gasket.

ASSEMBLY

1.5”Tri-Clamp

1.5”Tri-Clamp Gasket 1.5”Tri-Clamp Cap

Figure 1 NOTE: Before each use soak all ﬁttings, valves, o-rings

and lid seal in a sanitizing solution. To ensure that the

inside of the aseptic valve is sanitized, disassemble and

soak in sanitizer.

NOTE: If you are using the optional leg extensions, it is

not necessary to use the elbow, and this will allow the

trub and yeast to ﬂow more freely. Simply install the

valve directly on to the bottom dump ﬁtting. You’ll be

pressure testing all the ﬁttings during the sanitation

process, so if a leak is present you’ll be able to tighten it

then.

ASEPTIC VALVE AND ROTATING RACKING ARM

Install the 2 QuickConnect™ caps onto the ends of the aseptic valve. Mount the aseptic valve to the rotating racking arm as shown in

Figure 2 with a tri-clamp and gasket. Install the racking arm and aseptic valve to the tank with a tri-clamp and gasket as shown in Figure

3(leg lock)

Figure 3

1.5”Tri-Clamp

1.5”Tri-Clamp Gasket

QuickConnector™

Cap

Figure 2

QuickConnector™

Cap

Retaining Clip

Aseptic Valve

During operation, install the racking arm horizontally to

keep this from ﬁlling with sediment.

Tip: The racking valve will always face the handles direction.

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If using the included airlock, install the 4”cap with gasket on

the lid with the 4”tri-clamp. Install the #8 stopper with air

lock as shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6

4”Tri-Clamp

4”Tri-Clamp Cap

4”Tri-Clamp Gasket

LID ASSEMBLY

Assemble the Brass Tee-Handle and the Bolt as shown. Place around the lid and ﬂange and engage the latch over the bolt. Initially tighten

the clamp to about 1/2”(13mm) of gap between the band segments (Figure 5).

NOTE: ALWAYS apply a dab ofVaseline or drop of oil on the threads of the draw bolt before each use to prevent wear and galling of the

threads. Galled or worn threads are NOT covered under warranty.

BEFORE USE, SPRAY ALL SURFACES WITH STARSAN AND ASSEMBLE

Less than 1/4”

(6.4mm)

Figure 5

If using the blowoﬀ or spunding valves, see those man-

uals for assembly and operation.

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PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (PRV)

Before inserting the sanitized PRV (Figure 7) into the lid (Figure 8), verify that the PRV cavity is clean and free of debris and

foreign material. Sanitize the cavity and insert the PRV. Do not over tighten the cap. Pull on the ring to verify that operation is

smooth and the PRV fully extends. Install the spring type ﬁlter to the boss on the underside of the PRV port (Figure 9). This is

requried to prevent debris from passing through the PRV.

WARNING:

•Release all pressure and remove the PRV from the lid before removing the lid clamp

•NEVER tamper with the PRV

•The PRV is an emergency pressure release ONLY

•Use ONLY genuine Blichmann replacement parts and seals

•NEVER use this product without an airlock, blowoﬀ tube, or spunding valve

Figure 7 Figure 8

Figure 9

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MAXIMUM FERMENTABLES CAPACITY

Beer

7 Gallon 5.5 US Gal

14 Gallon 11 US Gal

19 Gallon 16 US Gal

1 BBL 34 US Gal

OPERATION

WARNING: Exceeding these capacities can cause the fermentation material (krausen) to clog

the pressure relief valve and airlock causing a dangerous overpressure of the fermentor. Approx-

imately 20% excess capacity is required for krausen space for beer. The use of Ferm Cap additive

is highly recommended. In addition to greatly reducing krausen, it improves head retention.

DRY HOPPING

Do not use loose whole leaf hops for dry-hopping! Not only will they possibly clog the pressure relief valve, the leaves tend to

clog the racking arm. If you use whole hops be sure to use a hop bag. Pellet hops can be used with or without a hop bag. In all

cases, using a hop bag will reduce the carry-over of hop particles in the ﬁnished beer and harvested yeast and leave you with

more ﬁnished beer. Boiling the bag before placing the hops inside is an easy way to reduce the risk of introducing bacteria in

to the fermentor from the bag. In practice, pre-boiling of the hops is not needed due to the natural bacterial inhabitation from

hops, and the low pH of the beer. This will also preserve the volatile aromatic compounds from being lost.

AFTER USE CLEANING AND STORAGE

After use, rinse with hot water and completely disassemble the fermentor and ﬁttings. Soak the ﬁttings and seals in hot PBW

solution. Scrub the fermentor and lid with a soft scouring pad and ordinary dish detergent (or your favorite non-chlorine cleans-

er such as PBW) and rinse and dry thoroughly.

MAINTENANCE

Inspect lid seal and o-rings before each use. If they have cuts, abrasion or have taken a permanent set replace them. Never scrub

the seals or o-rings with an abrasive pad or cleanser.

After installing the aseptic valve, angle it so that the ﬁttings are vertical. Install the bottom QuickConnect™ cap. Using the

included squeeze bottle, ﬁll the inside of the aseptic valve with Star San™ or vodka through the top and install the top

QuickConnect™ cap. Keeping this full ensures every sample with be sanitary.

WARNING: When using pressure to sample or drain the unit, a few PSI is all that is needed. If counter pressure ﬁlling into the keg,

it is highly recommened to use a spunding valve. The PRV is NOT to be used as a normal pressure control!

IMPORTANT: Open the pressure relief valve on the lid prior to draining beer/wort from the tank or you will suck the liquid out

of the airlock and into the fermentor! The CO₂ from the actively fermenting beer is generally suﬃcient to purge any ingested air

from the tank.

WORT SAMPLE

1. Remove bottom cap of the aseptic valve and let liquid drain.

2. Open valve slowly and take sample

3. Replace bottom cap.

4. Remove top cap, ﬁll with sanitizer/vodka and replace top cap.

Alternatively, the unit can be sealed and a few PSI of pressure can be applied prior to sampling to keep O2 from entering.

ASEPTIC VALVE OPERATION

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RACKING AND SERVING FINISHED BEER

Transferring beer out the G4 Fermenator can be done with either gravity or using CO2 pressure to transfer into a bottling bucket

or keg. To pressurize the fermentor, you can use either the Blichmann Tri-Clamp Spunding Valve or our 1-1/2”Tri-Clamp to Keg

post adaptor. Simply attach the device to the top port on the lid and pressurize the tank to the desired pressure. Do not attempt

to exceed 15 PSI.

The other method is gravity transfer. Simply elevate the vessel and drain into a keg or bottling bucket. Oxygen contact with the

beer is minimized by purging the vessel prior to transfer. Purge the keg with CO2 after transferring to eliminate any residual O2

in the headspace. Purge the keg prior to ﬁlling through the liquid out post to ensure all O2 is displaced from the bottom up as

CO2 is heavier than air. After ﬁlling, pressurize the keg through the CO2 post and pull the keg vent/PRV valve 4-5 times to ensure

all O2 has been removed form the head space.

WARNING: THE PRV IS NEVER TO BE USED AS A PRESSURE CONTROL FOR FERMENTATION!

RELEASE ALL PRESSURE AND REMOVE THE PRV FROM THE LID BEFORE REMOVING THE LID CLAMP!

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: SPUNDING VALVE TO REGULATE THE FERMENTATION PRESSURE AT THE DESIRED PRESSURE.

Pressure fermentation up to 15 PSI (1 BAR) is one of the key new features of the Fermenator G4 conical fermentor. Fermenting

under pressure suppresses the formation of esters by the yeast (fruity character) and allows the brewer to product lager-like

beer at room temperature, and in less time. In addition to ester reduction, diacetyl precursor production by the yeast is also

signiﬁcantly reduced. Blichmann Engineering and White Labs have done extensive research on various pressures and the eﬀect

on quantitative ester and diacetyl production. In addition, qualitative testing was done through National and Master ranked

BJCP judges. While pressure fermenting at higher pressure such at 30 PSI (2 BAR) does reduce esters even further, it also gives a

perceived thinner body, and also a harsher presentation of the hop bitterness. The panel found the traditional lager method to

produce the best overall ﬂavor, but the 15 PSI at room temperature produced the best balance of ester reduction and hop ﬂavor

quality. While esters are reduced, also is diacetyl. Not from the pressure, rather from the higher fermentation temperature. At

low levels that are appropriate for the style, diacetyl does add a perceived roundness to the malt character and the tasting panel

noted that this was missing from the pressure fermented beer. In summary, pressure fermentation produces a lager-like beer. Is

best done at approximately 15 PSI. But is not as rounded as a beer that is lagered in the traditional style.

TIP: Do not use pressure fermentation when producing ales or you will not achieve the fruity character and balance necessary

in these styles. If you are unable to control temperatures of your ales to 66-72F, it may be necessary to apply 7-8 PSI to suppress

enough esters to achieve desired levels for the style. Experimentation with this is highly advised.

WARNING:

• Do not exceed 15 PSI

• Do not remove the lid clamp before releasing all pressure and removing the PRV from the lid

• Do not tamper with or press on the PRV stem

• Do not leave the fermentor unattended during transferring

• Do not use loose whole hops, wood chips, or other similar material in the fermentor. Use a hop or grain bag to prevent loose

material from plugging the pressure relief valve or airlock causing a dangerous overpressure of the fermentor.

• Ensure that the surfaces of the pressure relief valve and seat are free from fermentables or other material prior to pressurization.

Clean as needed. Failure to do so may cause sticking and subsequent malfunction of the relief valve system.

WARNING: Use a hop bag when using whole hops, wood chips, and other similar materials in the fermentor to prevent loose

material from plugging the pressure relief valve or airlock, which may cause a dangerous overpressure of the fermentor. In

addition, these materials will clog the racking tube making draining the ﬁnished beer/wine diﬃcult. It is highly recommended

that you use a blow-oﬀ tube for primary fermentation! The optional tri-clamp blow-oﬀ assembly makes this very easy.

PRESSURE FERMENTATION

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BOTTOM DUMP OPERATION

Now you’re about to see the real beneﬁt to a conical fermentor: the ease of trub (cold break) and yeast removal for secondary

fermentation or yeast harvesting and quick and sanitary removal of wort samples. Typically, cold break is removed just after wort

chilling, but prior to pitching the yeast (allow time for settling to the bottom of the tank). Remaining trub and ﬂocculated yeast

can be removed after primary fermentation. To prevent air from entering the fermentor, a few PSI of CO2 can be applied to the

fermentor to displace the volume of liquid removed from the bottom dump.

If you’re harvesting the yeast, you’ll need to sanitize the hose and ﬁttings ﬁrst. The valve threads can easily be sanitized by a

spray bottle of sanitizer a few minutes prior to installing the barbed ﬁtting. Allow the trub to pass ﬁrst, and collect the cream

colored yeast. A wide mouthed glass jar 8-16 oz works well. If you have CO₂ available, purge the jar of oxygen before use.

With proper sanitation techniques, yeast can be stored for 1-2 months and harvested up to 4 times in a typical homebrew

environment. Since you’ll have plenty of yeast to pitch (reactivate in a starter if more than 2 weeks old) you’ll ﬁnd your ferments

starting faster and progressing much more quickly.

PROCEDURE: Connect a clear 1”ID X 24” long hose to the bottom dump valve with the hose barb ﬁtting provided and place

the other end into a suitable container. If you are not harvesting the yeast the hose and ﬁtting do not need to be sanitized. If

you have a large amount of sediment or it has compacted over time, it may take one to two minutes for the ﬂow to begin. Over

time, yeast takes on the consistency of toothpaste (as opposed to molasses) and even commercial breweries have trouble with

plugging. More frequent dumping earlier in the fermentation process will alleviate this. It is recommended to dump when

primary fermentation has slowed, and then every few days until the yeast has all been removed. Use proper techniques to leave

trub in the boil kettle. Consult any homebrewing text for recommended procedures. If you are still having trouble with yeast

cake compaction it is permissible to use pressure to provide additional force to remove the yeast. This is a common procedure

in commercial breweries. See the“Racking ﬁnished beer – pressure transferring”section for instructions and warnings before

attempting this!

Slowly open the valve until you have removed the trub or yeast. Watch the ﬂow through the hose and close the valve when the

trub and yeast have been drained. That’s it!

YEAST HARVESTING

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