BIC Muro M-50 Manuel utilisateur

MuroTM

M-50, M-60, M-80 and M-8.3

VenturiTM

VI-38

In-Wall Speaker Systems

CONGRATULATIONS TABLE OF CONTENTS

What you need to do the job

Speaker system parts inventory

on selecting

B.IC

Wall-Mounted

Speakers. Like all

B.IC

speakers, they

combine advanced acoustic technology

with durability and will provide years of

musical enjoyment.

This

manual is designed to make your

M-50, M-60, M-80, M-8.3 or VI-38

speakers as easy to install as they are to

listen to. If you’ve had any home

“do-it-

yourself

”

experience, you should find

installation of your new speakers a

simple job.

However, we suggest you read through

this

manual before starting out. If you

then decide that installing your

B+IC

In-

Wall Speakers is a bit beyond your skills,

we’ve included suggestions for locating

sources of affordable outside help.

mounting

template

mounting

bracket

masking

Tools for installation

.......................................

Speaker wire.

............................................

Amplifier considerations

....................................

Where to put your speakers

Varioususes.............................................

Stereo imaging

..........................................

Other acoustic considerations

................................

Wall

ceiling surfaces

....................................

Speaker wire paths

.......................................

Painting your speakers.

.......................................

Cutting holes for the speakers

..................................

Running connecting wires

.....................................

Hooking up your speakers

At the speaker end

.......................................

At the amplifier end..

Final assembly.

..........................................

short “test drive”

..........................................

A quick troubleshooting guide.

..............................

More on amplifiers and impedances

..........................

Installing

Be1.C

Muro speakers during new construction

............

B+C

Muro M-50, M-60, M-80, M-8.3 and Venturi VI-38 descriptions

and specifications.

.....................................

Outside help

............................................

grille

DRAWING 1

NOT SHOWN: packet of acoustic damping material

WHAT YOU NEED

TO DO THE JOB

SPEAKER SYSTEM

PARTS INVENTORY

Before you get involved in the actual

installation process, it’s a good idea to

check for possible shipping damage and

identify parts and hardware.

You should have the parts shown in

Drawing 1:

‘ho (2)

B+IC

In-wall loudspeaker

systems with attached grilles

Iho

(2) metal brackets

Eight (8) black metal screws (in

their own little zip-top bag)

Another clear plastic bag with little

rectangles of a black substance

wrapped in white paper (we’ll

explain this one later!)

l’wo

(2) white cardboard mounting

templates

‘Iwo

(2) white cardboard masking

templates for painting

If anything is missing after a thorough

search of the box and packing materials,

contact the dealer where you bought your

speakers.

Although BIG In-Wall Systems are

extremely well packed to withstand the

rigors of shipping, you should still

inspect them closely, especially if there

is any damage to the outside cartons. If

you find anything wrong, contact your

dealer or the shipper who delivered

the speakers.

TOOLS FOR INSTALLATION

IN EXISTING WALLS

It doesn’t take a whole workshop to

install your new speakers, just a few

simple tools:

A pencil

drill with a l-inch flat bit

A retractable utility knife or

keyhole saw

A length of stiff wire about 3 feet

long (a straightened wire coat

hanger works fine)

Phillips-head screw driver which

will fit the black screws included

with your speakers

A pair of diagonal pliers or wire

strippers

Some of the following may also be

needed, depending on the application.

0 A stud finder

Drill bit just slightly larger than

the diameter of one speaker wire

Plumb bob or small weight on a

string

Insulated staples for securing

speaker wire

Masking tape or foam

“double-

stick” tape

Paint and applicator for changing

grille

#and

outer frame finish

0 A bubble level

SPEAKER WIRE

The amount of wire you’re going to

need will of course vary with speaker

placement (which we cover next). But

we’re covering the subject of wire now

because it’s something you may have to

go out and obtain along with whatever

tools you don’t already have.

What

kind to use

We recommend using inexpensive,

multi-stranded “zip-cord” for

amplifier-

to-speaker connections. Also called lamp

cord, it’s sold in pre-packed rolls and in

bulk displays at hardware, lighting and

home improvement stores. Zip-cord’s

outside covering (insulation) can be

transparent, black, brown, white, etc.

Color doesn’t matter. Thickness does.

Selecting the proper gauge

Wire is measured in “gauges.” For no

particularly good reason, the bigger the

number, the smaller the wire. For exam-

ple,

18-gauge

is thinner than

14-gauge.

The gauge of wire you need is deter-

mined by the distance between your

amplifier/receiver and the speakers. Use

the following chart as a guide:

Length

Minimum Gauge

Less than 10 ft.

10 to 50 ft.

Over 50 ft.

If in doubt, be safe and get a smaller

gauge (i.e. thicker wire). Using too thin

a gauge over a long distance can compro-

mise sound quality. And besides, there

isn’t a vast cost difference between

gauges, anyway.

How much to buy

Basically, more than you think you

need. As we noted earlier, a discussion of

lengths is sort of premature until you’ve

decided on exact placement, so you may

want to skip to page 4 and read the sec-

tion on “‘Where to

put your speakers.”

But if you have a rough idea of the dis-

tance from your

ampfier

to the speak-

ers, here are a few tips:

Because of the complicated paths

which are often required to route

wires, you’ll definitely need more

than the amount derived from

simple measurements.

Even if one speaker is a lot closer

to the amp than the other speaker,

you should use the same length of

wire for both paths. This insures

that both speakers will play at

equal volume.

Professional installers often use

the following rule of thumb:

“As

the crow flies” amp to speaker

distance TIMES FIVE. That allows

enough for both speaker paths plus

a very healthy margin for unplanned

detours. Remember the electrician’s

favorite

adage: “You

can

always

cut

off extra wire, but

they

don’t stretch

worth a ah.

”

AMPLIFIER

CONSIDERATIONS

Virtually any receiver, power amplifier

or integrated amplifier can be used with

your

BIG

Ceiling Speakers. Although

Muro

M-50’s

are rated at 100 watts maxi-

mum input power, M-60’s at 110 watts,

M-80’s

at 120 watts,

M-8.3’s

at 120 watts,

and

V&38’s

at 125 watts, it’s OK to use a

more powerful amplifier if you take some

simple precautions, which we cover on

page 13 (‘Taking care

of your new

B-1-C

In-wall speakers”).

A more serious consideration is

whether or not you intend to power more

than one set of speakers with the same

amplifier or receiver. If you intend to

hook speakers to both “A” and

“B”

receiver outputs and then play both sets

of speakers at the same time, you should

read the section starting on page 14 of

this manual

(“More on amplifiers

and impedances”),

to avoid potential

problems.

WHERE TO PUT

YOUR SPEAKERS

Placement can make all the difference

in how your

B.1,C

In-wal.l

speaker systems

sound

and how easy they are to

install. There are at least three

“WHERE’S” and a “HOW” to factor into

your layout;

HOW you intend to use your speakers

WHERE they’ll sound best (stereo

imaging and acoustic considerations)

WHERE it’s possible to install

them (wall and ceiling surfaces)

WHERE they can be installed that

makes it easy to get wire to them

without remodeling your entire

house.

VARIOUS USES

BaIX

In-Wall Speakers can be

used for background music, as a

prlmar)

listening system or as built-in rear

surround speakers in an audio/video

home theater.

!!I@,

(

a,,

r---7

c----

DRAWING 2

B-1-C

in-wall speakers may be used

for rear surround sound channels

by placing them (1) behind, (2) on

each side of the viewing position or

(3) in the ceiling just behind the

viewers.

8.1.C

In-wall speakers also

make excellent, unobtrusive front

channel home video theater speak-

ers (4).

EXCELLENT

for stereo imaging

EXCELLENT

for stereo imaging

U’

‘D/

OK for background

music; not good

for stereo imaglng

Asymmetrilcsl

response; more bass

from right speaker

Both speakers aren’t

in line wlth listener

Not recommended

for either:

Too close together

n3n

DRAWING 3

Background music

you

lust

want low-volume back-

ground music to

5oat

through a room,

placement for best acoustics and imaging

is not particularly critical. You can pretty

well ignore all our diagrams and tips on

imaging and other acoustical matters.

Just

put

your

speakers where it’s

conve-

nlent

and non-intrusive to room decor

but without grouping both speakers

too

close together

You

can even place the

speakers in

adjoinmg

rooms, such as a

living room that flows into a formal din-

ing room, or in a kitchen and breakfast

nook.

you’re going to place the speakers

high up on a wall, flip the speaker upside

down when

mountmg

it so that the

tweeter

on the bottom. This will insure

better treble dispersion

(see

Drawing 4).

Surround sound

B+C

In-Wall Speakers make excellent

surround sound speakers. They can be

mounted at ear level in any of the posi-

tions shown in Drawing 2 including from

the ceiling.

STEREO IMAGING

If your

B.1.C

In-Wall Speakers are

going to be your primary listening source

in a room, you need to consider some

other factors to insure proper imaging.

The term “stereo imaging” refers to a

speaker system’s ability to project music

so that it sounds like the performers are

in a

3-dimensional

space between the

speakers. It’s the whole point of having a

stereo instead of monophonic system.

Drawing

shows some possible place-

ments as well as some situations to avoid.

rotated

down

OTHER ACOUSTIC

CONSIDERATIONS

For best fidelity, there are several

other factors to keep in mind before you

start actual installation.

Vertical placement

Treble frequencies are quite

directional.

While

the

dome tweeters

B-1-C

Muro M-50, M-60 and M-80

speakers are designed to disperse high

frequencies over a wide area, they will

give you

the

best sound when positioned

so that they are at least at ear level, as

shown in Drawing 4.

If you have M-8.3’s or VI-38’s, the

tweeter can be swivelled to direct the

high frequencies toward the listening

position. See drawing 4A.

of course, if the speakers are being

installed in an area where listeners usu-

ally stand up (such as a kitchen or

hallway), “ear level”

will

be higher on

the wall than for rooms where listeners

are often seated.

DRAWING 4

DRAWING 4A

Corners and reflections

When an in-wail speaker is placed

close to the comer of a room, bass

frequencies are emphasized. This can

be OK if both speakers are mounted

near comers (while maintaining stereo

imaging). But try to avoid placing just

one speaker in a corner and another on

a long flat wall.

Treble is emphasized when it

reflects back from reflective surfaces

such as large windows. Conversely,

highs tend to be muffled by soft

surfaces such as drapes, rugs,

upholstered furniture, carpeted steps

and even textured fabric wall paper.

In general, the best acoustic

performance will result if both speakers

face a similar type of surface and are

placed in similar positions on the same

type of wall.

WALL AND CEILING

SURFACES

Now that we’ve covered where you

should put your speakers, let’s consider

where you CAN put them.

B+I,C

Muro

M-SO’s

require at least

2’/(

of wall depth;

M-GO’s

require at least

3’/4”;

M-80 and M-8.3’s require

351~”

;

VI-38 requires

3’/4#

of wall depth (all

measured from the outside surface of

the wall).

This means that they can be installed in

any wallboard-and-2x4 stud wall. In fact,

the dense, rigid nature of plasterboard

(or lath and plaster in older homes) acts

as a superb speaker

baMe.

You can also

install

B.1.C

In-wall

speak-

VI-38

Push on rim of

tweeter to rotate

M8.3

ers in stud walls covered with thick wood

paneling or in wallboard/plaster ceilings.

However, avoid:

Stud

walls covered only with thin

veneer paneling

the surface

isn’t rigid enough and can cause

annoying vibrations and buzzing.

T-bar “drop ceilings with very

thin fiberboard panels which can

buzz and vibrate. If you suspect

this

will happen, reinforce the’

drop-in panel with wood or particle

board.

Any wall which can’t provide

proper depth (clearance) for

the

back of the Muro speaker to

protrude. This includes brick or

concrete walls where the

wallboard or paneling is attached

to thin furring strips.

Walls where you know that there

are pipes, heating ducts and

ESPECIALLY AC wiring in the

general vicinity. For example, if

there is an outlet along the

baseboard, there is often a live

wire running partly up

the

wall at

SPEAKER WIRE PATHS

The last consideration is the obstacle

course that lies between the speakers’

hoped-for mounting positions and your

stereo system.

Wires can be run through crawl spaces

that lie above your ceiling or below the

floor, through basements or second

stories, or simply along the perimeter

of your listening room. We cover each

of these options in detail in the

“Running connecting wires”

section

of this manual.

general, you should pay particular

attention to the following areas:

lAvoid running speaker wires close

to house electrical wiring for any

distance. If you have to run them

parallel, make sure to space the

speaker wires at least two feet from

the AC line. It is, however, OK for

speaker wires to cross paths with AC

line or go through the same hole

together with house wiring if they

separate before and after.

lMake sure that the entire path

between speakers and amplifier is

clear and not obstructed by a major

floor or ceiling joist or masonry wall

which you won’t be able to drill

through.

Remember that the other end of the

wires has to come out somewhere

to connect with the amplifier.

Confirm ahead of time that you can

drill an outlet hole easily and in an

unobtrusive spot.

PAINTING YOUR

CUTTING HOLES

If you like the designer

white

finish

which has been applied to your

Bg1.C

In-Wall Speakers, you can skip to Step D,

next column. But if you want your speak-

ers to completely blend in with a colored

wall or accent the surface, now is the

time to paint your

Bs1.C

In-wall speakers’

outer frames and perforated grilles.

FOR THE

SPEAKERS

Wallboard is an easy surface in which

to make a relatively neat hole. Actually,

the hole doesn’t even have to be that neat,

since the speaker’s outer frame will cover

it. Just make sure you don’t make it any

bigger than the template. In the following

steps, you’re going to locate a section of

wall between two studs, mark the outer

boundaries of the hole, drill a small hole

in the center toco&rm your

location and then cut the main hole.

The speaker’s outer surfaces are

primed to accept ordinary latex wall paint

or aerosol spray paint. Because the sur-

face behind the perforated grille should

remain black, you will need to mask this

area off before you begin painting.

01.

03.

04.

05.

First the speakers’ grille must be

removed, From the back of the

speaker, insert a mounting screw

and push on the

mside

of the grille

to loosen it so you can pull it off.

Attach loops of

maskmg

tape or

double-stick tape to the cardboard

masking cards which have been

included with your speakers.

Press a masking card onto each

speakers’ surface to cover the

woofer and tweeter.

Paint the outer speaker frame and

grille separately. A roller with a

short or medium nap will work

much better than a brush. If you’re

using spray paint, make sure that

you achieve the same coverage on

both grille and frame.

After the paint has thoroughly

dried, remove the cardboard

masking plate.

There’s no need to replace the grille at

this time since you will need access to the

inner speaker surface during installation.

02.

First you must determine the

location of your wall studs so that

the speaker can be approximately

centered between them. There are

several ways to go about this:

l Tap on the wall and listen to

the resulting “THUMP”. When it’s

deeper, you’re between studs.

When it’s sharper and more

flat-

sounding, you’re close to a stud.

l Use a stud-finder, a simple little

magnetic device which works by

locating the lines of nails ham-

mered into the stud.

l Identify studs by the position

of electrical outlets or switches,

There’ll be a stud either directly to

the left or right of an electrical

fixture. This gives you a point of

measurement, since studs are

either 18 or 16 inches apart in

newer houses,

inches apart on

pre-W&2

homes.

When you’re reasonably sure of

where the wall stud 2x4’s are

(and are TOTALLY sure that there

isn’t an electrical cable, water pipe

or heating duct in that vicinity of

wall), position

one of the card

board mounting templates and

draw around the inside outline

with a pencil. If you don’t trust

your eye, use a level to make sure

the hole will be straight.

Repeat for the other speaker position.

03.

04.

05.

06.

Drill

a l-inch hole in the center of

the pencil outline which you have

just drawn.

07.

obtain a length of stiff wire such as

an unwound, totally un-bent coat

hanger, Bend it so that the last 12

inches is at a right angle to the rest.

Insert the angled part into the

l-inch hole you just drilled and

probe to left and right to confirm

that a stud is not close on either

08.

side.

there is a close stud on one

side, just re-position the cardboard

09.

template a few inches in the

opposite direction and re-draw

your pencil outline, keeping the

l-inch hole within the pencil out-

line’s inner boundaries.

If there are no obstructions, cut

the hole along the pencil outline. If

the surface is wallboard, simply cut

it increasingly deeper with a utility

knife until it gives way and then

pull

it out by grasping the cut-out

through the l-inch hole.

you’re dealing with lath and

plaster or thick paneling, you need

to use a different technique. Drill

l-inch holes at the comers of the

pencil outline. Then use a keyhole

saw or even a hacksaw blade with

VERY slow strokes to saw through

and remove the inner surface.

Temporarily place a

B.1.C

In-wall

speaker into the cut-out to insure

that it fits properly. It’s OK if the

hole is slightly large, since it

wilI

be covered by the. speaker’s outside

frame.

Actual

installation will hap-

pen later, after you’ve routed the

speaker wires.

Repeat steps 1 through 7 for the

other speaker.

Now it’s time to drill the hole on

the OTHER end

at the point

where the wires from the speakers

will exit to the amplifier/receiver.

l Use the same l-inch drill bit as

before.

l If you want a totally finished job,

install an outlet box against a stud

and cover it with a TV cable or

single outlet plate which has one

hole in the middle for the wires to

exit from.

RUNNING

CONNECTING

Now you know were the wires have to

run. It’s time to actually route

them. As

mentioned before, there are several

pos-

sibilities.

1. DOWN, ACROSS

BACK

up.

you

have a crawl space under your house

or a relatively unfinished basement,

your job is broken into three parts:

1) Down from the amplifier to the crawl

space; 2) Across the crawl space to the

wall(s) with the speakers; 3) Up the wall

to the speaker.

OVER.

you

have an attic or

overhead

crawi

space, your three steps

are: 1) Up from the amplifier to the

crawi

space; 2) Across the crawl space to the

wall(s) with the speakers; 3) Down the

wall to the speaker.

3. OVERLAND. If the speakers and

amplifier are in the same room and it is

carpeted, you can route the wires along

the baseboard. This method results in

just two

VERY

short lengths of wire being

possibly visible.

DRAWING 5

Use whichever method (or combina-

tion) is most applicable, but read each

over before undertaking it.

DOWN, ACROSS AND

BACK UP (BASEMENT OR

LOWER CRAWL SPACE)

If you have an unfinished basement or

crawl space under your home, you can

avoid having to run wires in the room.

Working from underneath is sometimes

trickier since there are often more pipes,

ducts, electrical and cable lines already

in place.

01.

Make sure you have the following:

0 Tape measure

0 Cordless drill (or regular

model with long extension cord)

with a l-INCH BIT

0 A VERY long roll of speaker

wire

0 Wire cutters

either diagonal

pliers or wire strippers which

include a cutting surface

0 Length of stiff wire such as coat

hanger at least 3 feet long

0 Tape

any kind will do

0 It’s also convenient to have

another person upstairs helping

you.

The

person’s job will be to

grab the cables as you push them

Gem

below.

02.

03.

Enter the basement or crawl space

and proceed to a spot directly

below where one of

the

in-wall

speakers will be.

After carefully measuring to make

sure you’re in the right place, drill

a hole up through the horizontal

2x4 directly below the speaker.

04~.

If you haven’t encountered in-wall

insulation (sometimes present on

outside walls), have your assistant

drop a plumb bob or weight string

down until you can reach it. Tape

the cable to it and let them pull it

UP.

04B. If you have run into insulation,

there’s another approach: Get out

your long roll of speaker cable and

tape the end to the stiff wire or

bent coat hanger. Push the stiff

wire with speaker cable attached

up through one of the holes far

enough that your assistant can

grasp it through the speaker cut-

out above. Have him or her pull

out at least 8 feet of cable (as

measured from your position

downstairs).

Making sure that the end doesn’t

get pulled back down through the

hole, reel out wire while moving

across the basement.&& space until

you reach a location below the amplifier,

06.

07.

08.

09.

Extend at least

(TEN)_

extra

feet

of cable and cut the end off the

roll.

Grab your coil/roll of cable and

move over to the hole that’s been

drilled below the other speaker.

Again, have your assistant drop a

plumb bob or weight and string

down until you can reach it. Tape

the cable to it and let him or her

pull

it up, extending at least 8 feet

of wire up through this hole. Or

use the

stiff

wire method if the

wall has insulation or obstructions

in it.

Making sure the end doesn’t get

pulled back down through the

hole, reel out cable until you reach

the space under the amplifier.

Extend at least

10 (TEN) extra

feet

of cable and cut the end off the

roll. You’ve now run wires from

both speakers to a point directly

below where the amplifier will be.

l-inc

hol

DRAWING 6

DOWN, ACROSS AND BACK UP

010.

011.

012,

Drill a l-inch hole through the

horizontal 2x4 directly below the

amplifier wall outlet hole.

Because of the small diameter of

the hole, the plumb bob/string

method may not work on the

amplifier end. If so, tape the two

cable ends (which come from the

speakers) to a stiff wire and push

them up through the hole. Since

there’s only a l-inch hole upstairs,

you’ll probably need to wiggle the

wire around until your helper can

locate it and snag the wires taped

to the end. They, too may need to

use a length of stiff wire with a

hook in it to grab the cables

through the small hole.

Have your helper pull the cable

up until most of the slack has

been taken up down in the crawl

space or basement. If you want,

you can secure the cable runs to

the floor joists or beams using

insulated staples.

You’ve done it! Skip to the next section

titled

“Hooking up your speakers.”

UP AND OVER

(ATTIC CRAWL SPACE)

0 1. You’re about to ascend into your

attic. Grab

the

following:

02.

03.

04.

0 Tape measure

0 Cordless drill with a

I-INCH

BIT

(or non-cordless model with

long extension cord)

0 A VERY long roll of speaker wire

0 Wire cutters

either diagonal

pliers or wire strippers which

include a cutting surface.

0 Plumb bob or string with a

smcall

weight (such as a metal nut)

on the end

0 Tape

any kind will do

Crawl up into the attic with all

the

aforementioned stuff and proceed

to a spot that’s directly over one of

the

speaker cut-out holes.

After carefully measuring to make

sure you’re in the right place, drill

a hole through the horizontal

2x4

directly ABOVE the SPEAKER. Then

drill a hole for

the

other speaker.

Time to use that roll of cable. Push

the cable end through one of the

holes

you

just drilled until it

extends at least 8 feet. If you

encounter insulation, such as an

outside wall, tape the speaker cable

to a stiff wire and poke it down

until it can be located at the

speaker cut-out.

Making sure the end doesn’t get

pulled back up through the hole,

06.

07.

08.

09.

Extend at least 10 (TEN) more feet

of cable and cut it. You now have

cables running from both speakers.

Time to get them down the wall to

where the amplifier will be.

010.

011

Drilla l-inch hole through the

horizontal 2x4 directly above the

amplifier wall outlet.

Now you’re going to guide cables

down to where they’ll emerge

from the wall. Since this hole isn’t

very big, just

stuffmg

them down

and grabbing them won’t work.

reel out cable while moving across.

the attic/crawl space until you

reach the location above your

amplifier.

Extend at least 10 (TEN) more feet

of cable for the roll and cut it.

Grab your coil/roll of wire and

move over to the hole that’s been

drilled above the other speaker.

Extend at least 8 feet of wire down

through this hole

Again, making sure that the end

doesn’t get pulled back up through

the hole, reel out cable

until

you

reach the space above the amplifier.

l-Inch

hole

wire

“runs”

from each speaker

(thickness exaggerated

for

clarity)

DRAWING 7

UP AND OVER

012

013

014

015,

Instead, it’s time for the plumb

bob or string-with-weight (or wire

if there’s insulation to contend

with). Tape the two cable ends

(which come from the speakers)

to the plumb bob string just above

the

weight and lower the whole

thing down through the I-inch

hole above

the

amplifier. You’ll

probably have to “feed out” the

attached cable to get the weight to

descend.

Continue “paying out” both

cables until they and the weight

hit bottom.

‘lie

the free end of the

plumb bob string to something so

that it doesn’t fall down the hole.

Exit

the

attic crawl space and

stretch for a moment.

Go over to the l-inch amplifier

wire hole and look for the

extended string/plumb bob and

attached cables. If they’re not

visible, fish around for them with

your

stiffwire/unbent

coat hanger

and pull them through the hole.

Then rescue the plumb bob from

the attic.

At the speaker holes, things are

much

easier.

You can just reach

through and grab the cables.

Pull

their whole free length out the cut

speaker hole. You’ve done it! Skip

to the next section, titled

*‘Hooking up your speakers.”

OVERLAND

If, for a variety of reasons, it’s

impossible to route cables above or

below, you can still achieve a relatively

invisible job, assuming your amplifier

can be located in the same room. The

only visible cable will be a

I”-2”segment

on the baseboard below each speaker.

01.

02.

03.

04.

On the wallboard directly-below

each speaker cut-out hole, measure

up 2 inches from the

floor

and

mark the spot with a pencil dot.

Drill a small hole just large enough

to admit a speaker cable.

Insert one end of your speaker wire

through the small drilled hole and

use a stiff hooked wire to fish out

the speaker cable from above.

Repeat for both speakers.

When a room is carpeted, the

baseboard moldings are elevated

slightly to clear the carpet and pad.

This creates a hollow space

DRAWING 8

OVERLAND

between the bottom of the molding

and the floor which can be used to

conceal your speaker cable along

the perimeter of the room. Use a

screwdriver to

stuff

the cable under

until you reach the spot where your

amplifier will be.

To secure the cable so that it

doesn’t get pulled out during

vacuuming, add insulated staples

at the points where the cable enters

and exits the baseboard.

Note:

your baseboards are taller than

normal, you can drill the hole behind the

baseboard and avoid the

sh.ort

length of

visible cable. You may have to chisel a

shallow channel in the back of the base-

board for clearance.

DRAWING 9

Ce manuel convient aux modèles suivants

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