Bernina Overlocker Plus Instructions de fonctionnement

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Overlocker Plus

For current BERNINA models

Overlocker Workbook 2

BERNINA

27/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Presser Feet and Accessories..................................................................................... 3

Elasticator: Attaching Elastic .......................................................................................4

Gathering Foot: Simple Gathering............................................................................... 5

Gathering Foot: Fabric to Fabric.................................................................................. 6

Multi-Purpose Foot: Piping ..........................................................................................7

Multi-Purpose Foot: Inserted Piping ............................................................................8

Multi-Purpose Foot + Gathering ..................................................................................9

Multi-purpose Foot: Beading ......................................................................................10

Blindstitch Foot: Blind Hem ........................................................................................11

Blindstitch Foot: Decorative Tucks .............................................................................12

Blindstitch Foot: Joining Lace to Lace ........................................................................13

Cording Foot: Shaped Edges ....................................................................................14

Cording Foot: Wired Edges ........................................................................................15

The remainder of the exercises are for models 1300MDC and L 220 only:

3-Needle Coverstitch..................................................................................................16

2-Needle Coverstitch..................................................................................................17

Coverstitch Hem.........................................................................................................18

Chainstitch .................................................................................................................19

Decorative Chainstitch ...............................................................................................20

Color-Coded Threading Charts .................................................................................. 21

Table of Contents

The information in this work-

book applies to the current line

of BERNINA Overlockers.

Note: Some exercises apply

only to certain models

equipped with the feature

being highlighted.

Overlocker Plus

37/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Presser Feet & Accessories

The following presser feet and accessories are available for BERNINA overlockers except the L 220. Some

attachments are included with the purchase of the overlocker and others are optional depending on the

model. Each presser foot snaps onto the shank of the overlocker, easy to change without the use of addi-

tional tools. The Gathering Attachment, the Guide for the Multi-Purpose Foot, and the Right & Left Seam

Guides are attachments used in conjunction with a presser foot.

47/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Elasticator: Attaching Elastic

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 14” and

12” length of ½” nylon or cotton braid elastic

Needle: 75/11 Stretch or Ballpoint

Thread: 2 cones of overlocker thread and 2 cones of Woolly Nylon

Presser Foot: Elasticator

Stitch: 4-thread overlock

Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock using Woolly Nylon in

the upper and lower loopers. Adjust settings as directed below.

Attach the Elasticator to the overlocker.

Locate and raise the roller guide in the front of the presser foot. Turn

the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the feed dog.)

Raise the presser foot and insert the elastic through the slot and under

the presser foot until it touches the needles.

Lower the presser foot and overlock a few stitches to catch and

straighten the elastic along the right edge of the slot. Turn the hand-

wheel to lower the needles.

Lower the roller guide. Using the small screwdriver, loosen the set

screw on the front of the elasticator and adjust the guide plate to the

width of the elastic; tighten the set screw.

Locate the pressure adjustment set screw (on the top of the roller

guide) and turn the screw counterclockwise to completely loosen the

pressure on the roller.

Place the fabric under the presser foot and begin stitching. Slowly

tighten the pressure adjustment set screw to increase the pressure

on the roller and stretch the elastic. Note: Do not over tighten the

screw. Excessive pressure on the elastic will bind the fabric.

Stitch the elastic onto the fabric letting the presser foot stretch the

elastic for you.

Return all settings to normal.

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 3-5

Lower Looper 3-5 3-5

Left Needle 3-5 3-5

Right Needle 3-5 3-5

Stitch Length 2.5 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 6

Differential Feed N 1

57/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Differential = 2

Stitch Length = 2.5

Needle tensions = 5

Differential = 2

Stitch Length = 4

Needle tensions = 5

Differential = 2

Stitch Length = 4

Needle tensions = 7

Gathering Foot: Simple Gathering

Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings

as directed below, starting with a stitch length of 2.5mm and

needle tensions of 5.

Attach the Gathering Foot to the overlocker.

Using a fabric marker, divide fabric into 3 sections along one

14” edge.

Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers

the feed dog.) Insert the fabric under the Gathering Foot, up

against the needles. The fabric should be on the stitch plate.

Lower the presser foot and overlock to the first mark.

Adjust the stitch length to 4mm and overlock to the second

mark.

Increase the tension on both needles to 7. Overlock to the end

of the fabric.

Mark the sample as shown.

Return all settings to normal.

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 14”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread

Presser Foot: Gathering Foot

Stitch: 4-thread overlock

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 3-5

Lower Looper 3-5 3-5

Left Needle 3-5 3-5

Right Needle 3-5 3-5

Stitch Length 2.5 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 6

Differential Feed N 1

67/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Gathering Foot: Fabric to Fabric

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 14” and

Medium weight cotton, 3” x 8”

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread

Presser Foot: Gathering Foot

Stitch: 4-thread overlock

Thread the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as

directed below.

Attach the Gathering Foot to the Overlocker.

Raise the presser foot and insert the 14” strip of fabric (right side

up) under the Gathering Foot with the fabric on the stitch plate.

Lower presser foot. Sew several stitches until the fabric is under

the needles.

Turn the handwheel to lower the needles. (This also lowers the

feed dog.) Place the 8” strip of fabric (right side down) on top of

the flap on the Gathering Foot, touching the needles.

Overlock the two strips together; the lower strip will gather as

you sew.

Return all settings to normal.

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 3-5

Lower Looper 3-5 3-5

Left Needle 3-5 3-5

Right Needle 3-5 3-5

Stitch Length 2.5 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 6

Differential Feed N 1

77/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Multi-Purpose Foot: Piping

Fabric: Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”

12” length of ⅜” cotton filler cord

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread

Presser Foot: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Stitch: 4-thread overlock

Set the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as

directed below.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions

in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.

Note: 700D and 800DL need the Attachment Base to accommo-

date the Guide.

Insert the filler cord into the guide from front to back.

Raise the Multi-Purpose Foot and insert the filler cord into the

guide on the left side of the foot. Feed the filler cord under the

foot. Lower the foot and overlock a few stitches to stabilize the

cord.

Wrap the bias strip around the plastic portion of the guide under

the wire that goes over the guide.

Overlock slowly, guiding the fabric and the cord simultaneously;

continue stitching until the cord is covered. It is now ready to be

inserted into a seam as it is sewn.

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 3-5

Lower Looper 3-5 3-5

Left Needle 3-5 3-5

Right Needle 3-5 3-5

Stitch Length 2.5 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 6

Differential Feed N 1

87/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Multi-Purpose Foot: Inserted Piping

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 8”, 2 pieces

Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”

12” length of ⅜” cotton filler cord

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread

Presser Foot: Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide

Stitch: 4-thread overlock

Set the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as

directed below.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot and Guide following the directions in

the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide.

Note: 700D and 800DL need the Attachment Base to accommodate

the Guide.

Place one of the 3” x 8” pieces of fabric under the foot, right side up.

Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped cord in

the groove under the foot and on top of the other fabric.

Position the second piece of fabric, right side down, on top of the

first with the wrapped piping between them.

Overlock, making the covered cord and attaching it to the fabric strip

in one stitching.

Press the seam allowance to the wrong side of the fabric strip.

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 3-5

Lower Looper 3-5 3-5

Left Needle 3-5 3-5

Right Needle 3-5 3-5

Stitch Length 2.5 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 6

Differential Feed N 1

97/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Multi-Purpose Foot + Gathering

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 3” x 18”

Medium weight cotton bias strip, 2” x 8”

12” length of ⅜” cotton filler cord

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 4 cones of overlocker thread

Presser Foot: Multi-Purpose Foot + Gathering Attachment

Stitch: 4-thread overlock

Set the overlocker for a 4-thread overlock. Adjust settings as

directed below.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot only (no guide), following the

directions in the instruction manual for the Multi-Purpose Foot

with Guide.

Slip the Gathering Attachment on to the fixing screw and metal

post directly behind the fixing screw. Hint: Place the horseshoe

-shaped slot over the screw, then rotate the attachment to lock

over the metal post. Tighten fixing screw. Note: 700D and

800DL also need the Attachment Base.

Wrap the bias strip around the cord and place the wrapped

cord in the groove under the foot with the raw edges to the

right.

Take 2 or 3 stitches into the fabric and lower the needles into

the fabric.

Place the 3” x 18” fabric under the Gathering Attachment and

next to the needles.

Overlock, covering the cord, gathering the fabric strip and

seaming all layers together.

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 3-5

Lower Looper 3-5 3-5

Left Needle 3-5 3-5

Right Needle 3-5 3-5

Stitch Length 2.5 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 6

Differential Feed N 1

107/01/16

BERNINA

Overlocker Workbook 2

Multi-Purpose Foot: Beading

Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 4” x 8”

10” length of 4mm, plastic, pre-strung beads

Needle: 80/12 Universal

Thread: 3 cones of overlocker thread

Presser Foot: Multi-Purpose Foot

Stitch: 3-thread flatlock (narrow)

Set the overlocker for a 3-thread flatlock using the right needle.

Adjust settings as directed below.

Fabric will not be cut for this technique and the upper knife needs

to be disengaged. On the 1300MDC, 1150MDA, 800DL & 700D,

raise the upper knife and lock it in the “up” position to disengage.

On the L 460 and L 450, disengage the knife by opening sewing

table and looper cover; press knob in and turn clockwise until knife

engages at lower position.

Attach the Multi-Purpose Foot only (no guide), following the

directions in the instruction leaflet for the Multi-Purpose Foot

with Guide.

Lay the pre-strung beads in the channel on the right side of the

foot, threading them under the rear guide (see instruction leaflet

for the Multi-Purpose Foot with Guide).

Turn the handwheel to encase the first beads inside the thread

chain.

Fold the fabric in half to 2” x 8” and place the fabric under the foot

with the fold halfway between the needle and the stitch finger or

against the right seam guide.

Slowly flatlock the beads to the folded fabric.

Gently pull the fabric flat.

To reset and activate the knife:

On the 1300MDC, 1150MDA, 800DL & 700D, rotate the knife to

the down position until it clicks. On the 1300MDC, there is a button

to depress to lower the arm down before rotating the blade. On the

L460 & L 450, press the knob in and turn counter-clockwise until

knife engages at the upper position.

Suggested Settings

Others L 460/L 450

Upper Looper 3-5 4

Lower Looper 7-9 7

Left Needle NA NA

Right Needle 1-2 2.5

Stitch Length 1.75 2.5

Cutting Width 2-3 7

Differential Feed N 1

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