Bernina L 890 Instructions de fonctionnement

For BERNINA Overlocker L 890

WORKBOOK #1 – BASIC SERGER USE

OVERLOCKER

MASTERY

BOOK

SERIES

BERNINA

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BERNINA OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION �� 4

PREPARING TO STITCH �� 5

BASIC NAVIGATION�� 6

PERSONALIZE THE MACHINE�� 8

SELECTING A STITCH (DIRECT STITCH SELECTION) �� 9

MANUAL SETTINGS �� 10

STITCH VIEW�� 11

BALANCED STITCH �� 14

TENSION SETTINGS: UPPER LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS �� 15

TENSION SETTINGS: LOWER LOOPER THREAD TENSIONS �� 16

TENSION SETTINGS: RIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS �� 17

TENSION SETTINGS: LEFT NEEDLE THREAD TENSIONS�� 18

STITCH LENGTH �� 19

CUTTING WIDTH�� 20

UNDERSTANDING DIFFERENTIAL FEED �� 21

DIFFERENTIAL FEED: STRETCHY FABRICS�� 22

PERSONAL MEMORY�� 23

3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH-WIDE�� 24

3-THREAD FLATLOCK - WIDE�� 25

3-THREAD OVERLOCK STITCH NARROW �� 26

3-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW �� 27

3-THREAD ROLLED HEM �� 28

2-THREAD ROLLED HEM �� 29

2-THREAD FLATLOCK - NARROW �� 30

2-THREAD BLANKET STITCH NARROW �� 31

OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: SECURING SEAMS�� 32

OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: INSIDE CORNER �� 33

L 890

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BERNINA OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK

TABLE OF CONTENTS

The information in this workbook applies to the BERNINA Overlocker Machine model shown above�

L 890

OVERLOCKER TECHNIQUES: OUTSIDE CORNER �� 34

REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER NEEDLES�� 35

REFERENCE - OVERLOCKER THREADS�� 36

SUPPLIES�� 37

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BERNINA OVERLOCKER WORKBOOK

INTRODUCTION

Congratulations on the purchase of your new BERNINA

overlocker. Learning to use your new machine to its fullest

capabilities will let you enjoy your machine for many years.

Understanding your machine’s features will maximize

your creativity. You'll learn the essentials to help you be

successful with any project.

Your overlocker will speed your sewing in many ways,

letting you produce more in less time. The speed of the

overlocker is faster because it performs several operations

(trimming, seaming, and overcasting) at the same time, so

your project is nished faster and will produce neater and

more professional results.

Even though the workings of the overlocker may appear be

more complex than a sewing machine, it doesn’t take long

to learn the basics. The stitching exercises in this workbook

use four, three, and two thread stitch formations.

Once you have completed the exercises designated for

your BERNINA overlock machine, attach the sewn samples

to the indicated pages, insert the pages into plastic page

protectors and store them in a 3-ring binder. Use this

workbook as a reference tool in the future as you learn to

use your overlocker in new ways.

For more information on the BERNINA line of sewing

machines and overlockers, as well as sewing projects, visit:

www.bernina.com

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CLEANING AND OILING

Keeping your overlocker clean will keep your machine running smoothly and is a crucial component for successful stitches.

Serging creates a lot of lint which will build up in the machine, and oil will attract this lint to the moving parts of the

machine—so it is important to not over-oil the overlocker. Your machine manual will also give you detailed cleaning and oiling

suggestions..

PRESSER FOOT

The L 890 comes with two presser feet. Standard Combo Foot #C11 is the standard foot and can be used for all basic overlock

stitch groups and the Combo stitches. This foot can also be used for Cover-and Chainstitches. Chainstitch Foot #C13 is the cover-

and chainstitch foot and provides a narrower prole for optimal coverstitches and chainstitching.

NEEDLES

The L 8 Series overlockers are specied to needle system ELX705 needles. These needles have a grove on the front and

back of the needle which reduces the friction on the thread, especially at high speeds. Other needles can be used in these

machines, but tension adjustments may be required to achieve the desired stitch. Refer to Page 35 Reference - Overlocker

Needles for more information.

THREADING (Refer to Page 36 Reference -Overlocker Threads for additional information about threads.)

Due to the One-Step BERNINA Air Threader, no specic sequence is required for threading the machine.

Thread with the presser foot raised, and the retractable thread guide fully extended.

Make sure needles are in the highest position—they are staggered.

• Follow the color-coded path for threading the desired stitch.

• To engage the air threader, turn the air threader connection to the left. Then press the foot control to activate the threading

motor.

• If the air threading pipes do not close in the proper position, turn the handwheel before engaging the air threader. Now

when you press on the foot control, the pulse-drive feature will slowly move the pipes into the correct position to close.

• Tools for changing needles are located conveniently inside the threading cover of the machine.

PREPARING TO STITCH

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BASIC NAVIGATION

Main Functions

Touch the Home button to switch between the Home Screen and the Sewing Screen (stitch view).

The button works like a toggle. Additional main screen functions are the Help and clr.

1. Touch the <?> button to activate the Help Function.

2. Touch the icon on the screen that you need more

information on.

3. A text box with explanation will appear on screen.

4. Close the box to resume.

Help Function

clr

The <clr> button will reset any changed setting back to the default settings by simply tapping the button.

Settings and Help Functions

The Home Screen has four buttons that allow you to launch the Setup

Program and Help functions for the machine.

Select User Mode

Additionally, from the Home Screen you can select two user modes:

Guided and Expert. The Guided Mode will automatically prompt

through a Setup Wizard for each step, eventually landing at the Stitch

View screen. The Expert Mode shortens the operating steps and begins

with the Manual Settings screen from which the Setup Wizard can be

launched at any time. The user mode is selected based on preference.

For this class we will operate in the Expert Mode.

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BASIC NAVIGATION

Tutorials

The Tutorials button will open a built-in menu of basic machine operations with written descriptions and

sometimes animations. This is like having the machine manual at your ngertips.

You can use the Creative Consultant as a way to directly select a stitch with pre-determined stitch setting

adjustments for specic textiles and techniques. Follow the menu prompts and use the Help Function to further

identify materials and techniques for desired stitch. The Creative Consultant will recommend the optimal stitch

in combination with needle, thread and presser foot based on the selections made

Creative Consultant

Breadcrumbs

Learn to navigate within menus using the breadcrumb icons rather than using

the Close box to exit. This is a time-saving feature when moving from textile and

technique in Creative Consultant.

Eco Mode

Eco Mode is a power saving option that will lock the screen and turn off the lights without totally powering

off the machine. It is a great option if you need to move to another task like ironing or using a regular

sewing machine and do not want to leave the overlocker on. Simply tap the button when you return and

the machine picks up where you left off.

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PERSONALIZE THE MACHINE

Personalize the Screen (Setup Menu)

You can personalize the display and wallpaper color to suit your individual tastes for each user mode, Guided

and Expert. The default color for Guided Mode is blue and for Expert Mode it is purple. Change the color as

well as the texture in the Setup Program. A welcome text can also be programmed.

You can customize the sewing speed of the L 890 for both top speed and low speed.

In addition to sewing speed, you can also change and personalize the brightness of the

screen, turn off the LED machine lights, change or turn off the audio touchscreen sound,

and turn off the presser foot warning monitor.

Program the Sewing Speed

Machine Settings

There is other helpful information found in the Setup Menu under the machine Settings icon. Here you can

set the language, check rmware version, recalibrate the touchscreen, restore factory settings, and launch

a software update.

1. Touch the Setup icon.

2. Select Personal Settings and a display appears.

3. Select the color and texture.

4. Close the screen (or use the setup breadcrumb to navigate

back to Setup).

1. Touch the Setup icon.

2. Select Sewing Speed icon.

3. Adjust the slider controls to the desired maximum and

minimum speed.

• Changes are highlighted by yellow.

• To reset to default speed select clr.

• Sewing speeds have direct inuence on the machine,

regardless of the stitch selection.

4. Close the screen (or use the setup breadcrumb to navigate

back to Setup).

Tip: If you accidentally recalibrate the touch screen so that the

touch sensation is incorrect, you may automatically launch the

calibration by turning the machine off. Then touch and hold

on the screen as you turn the machine back on. The calibration

screen will show up and you can correct the touch points

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SELECTING A STITCH (DIRECT STITCH SELECTION)

Stitch Selection

There are three different ways to select a stitch on the L 890 Navigation; direct selections, via Creative

Consultant or from Personal Memory. We will begin by learning the Direct Stitch Selection that will take you

to the Sewing Screen.

1. Select stitches by touching the Stitch Selection tab.

2. Select the stitch using the Search by Number or from Stitch Group Folder.

3. Select the folder for the stitch group and all stitches for that category will appear.

4. Touch the image of the stitch you want to select.

5. Change the view to Schematic View or True View (based on your preference).

6. Show stitches as tiles or as a list with names.

7. Once selected, the machine will prompt you to either the Manual Settings Screen (Expert Mode) or the Setup Wizard

(Guided Mode).

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MANUAL SETTINGS

The Manual Settings Mode is prompted directly after a stitch is selected when in Expert Mode. This is the

screen that outlines all the physical changes that need to be made to the machine when setting up the stitch.

We will use a 4-thread overlock as our example.

The Wizard can be launched at any time from this screen by selecting the icon. This will walk you step-by-step

through all the changes that need to be made for the stitch selected.

Tip: The L 890 will remember the last stitch sewn, and the prompts work from these assumptions for the

suggested stitch changes.

Once all manual settings have been checked or changed, select the green check mark and the machine will move to the Stitch

View Screen.

Manual Setting Icons

Presser Foot

Recommendation

Looper Converter

Knife On/Off

Cutting Width

Micro Thread Control

Presser Foot Pressure

Upper Looper Position

Looper Insert

Rolled Hem Selection Lever

Needle Position

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