Baby Lock BL4-428 Manuel utilisateur

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L4 424

Four-Thread,, Three-Thread, & Two-Thread, Oaerlock,.

INSTRUCT¡ON BOOKLET

CONGRATULATIONS!

You are now part of an exciting new era in sewing. As owner of a Baby Lock BL4-428 you have become part of the serger sewing revolutiori,

opening the door to new possibilities in your creativity.

Professional appearance. The Baby Lock gives the quality finish to your garments that you find in even the most

expensive ready-to-wear.

Faster sewing. Because of Baby Lock's high speed capability - up to 1500 stitches per minute - and its ability to

trim, seam and overcast the fabric all in one operation, you will be completing more sewing projects in far less

time.

lncreased sewinq abilitv Difficult-to-handle fabrics and troublesome sewing techniques will no longer pose a chal

lenge. The Baby Lock handles all types of fabric with case.

Your Baby Lock is a high quality, dependable machine, and with proper care will give you many years of sewing enjoyment. We suggest

that you follow your instruction manual as a step-by-step guide io serger sewing. Later, as you become more confident, the manual will

become a handy reference for expanding your ability.

CONTENTS

1. Parts of the machine

2. Accessories

3. How your Baby Lock operates

4. Getting ready to sew

4-1 Setting up your machine

4-2 Needles

4-3 Thread

5. Threading method A - Tying on

6. Threading method B - Manual threading

7. Knives

7-1 Disengaging the upper knife . . . .

8. Start serging

9. Stitch length adjustment

10. Stitch wldth adjustment . . .

10-1 To make stitch width

10-2 To make stitch narrower

1 1. Four-thread serg¡ng

12. Overcasting...

13. Turning an outside corner

14. Turning an inside corner

15. Serging curves

16. Seaming

17. Locking ends . .

18. Three-thread serging

't4

't6

't8

19. Two-thread serging

19-1 To return from two-thread to three-thread serging

19-2 To return from two-thread to four-thread serging

20. Flatlock seam

21. Flatlocktucks.

22. Blind hemming

23. Narrow rolled edging

23-1 Three-thread narrow rolled edging

23-2 Two-thread narrow rolled edging

24. Seaming sheers with rolled edge

25. Lettuce edge .

26. Resetting from narrow rolled edge to four-thread serging

27. Specialty thread .

28. Specialty thread guide

29. Oiling

30. Replacing a needle

31. Replacing a light bulb . .

32. Replacing a knife blade .

33. Replacing the upper knife

34. Presser foot pressure adjustment

35. Machine specifications

36. Trouble shooting guide .

37. Chart for tension adjustment

38. Do's and Don'ts

1 PARTS OF THE MACHINE

Pressure adjuster

Thread guide switch

Needle

Presser foot

Stitch width

adjusting dial

Side cover

Telescopic thread guide

Left needle thread tensíon

adjuster (Orange)

Right needle thread

tension adjuster (Yellow)

Upper looper thread

tension ad.iuster (Green)

Lower looper thread

tension adjuster (Blue)

Handwheel

Power/Lamp switch

2 ACCESSORIES

lnstruction manual

Curved tweezers

oit ...

Lint brush

Screwdrivers

Spool caps

Thread nets .

N eed les

Lower knife replacement blade

Machine cover

Lower knife clamping screw

Stitch width adjusting dial

Upper looper

Subsidiary

looper

Subsidiary looper

brass screw

Front cover Stitch finger holder

3 HOW YOUR BABY LOCK OPERATES

A serger (or overlock, as it is sometimes called) is quite different from a conventional sewing machine. Understanding its simple operation will help you use it more

effectively. \

The Baby Lock BL4-428 stitches with one or two needles, but no bobbins. lnstead the lower threads are carried by two metal arms called "loopers". (Figure 1)

As the needles move up and down through the fabric, the loopers carry their threads side to side interlocking them with the needle thread at the seamline. The

looper threads interlock with one another at the edge of the fabric to complete the stitch.

The stitches form around two small metal prongs called "stitch fingers". (Figure 2) These stitch fingers support the edge of the fabric and prevent it from curling

or puckering under the stitches. The stitch fingers can be moved together or apart to vary the stitch width.

As the fabric moves under the presser foot, two cutting knives move in a scissor-like action to trim the edge of the fabric just ahead of the stitches. (Figure 3)

After setting up your machine for the first time, take a few minutes to watch how it sews. Remove the presser foot to get a closer view. Turn the handwheel away

from you and watch the movement of the needles, loopers and knives. Don't worry about stitching on fabric yet. lt does not hurt your Baby Lock serger to stitch

without any fabric.

Upper looper

Lower looper

Figure 1

Upper knife

Lower knife

Figure 3

sNeedle plate

fi ngers

SÕAdjustable

stitch finger

Figure 2

4 GETTING READY TO SEW

4-1 Setting up your machine

After removing the styrofoam packing materials from the box, gently liftyour Baby Lock serger by grasp-

ing the handle on the top of the machine. Place the machine on a serger table or other level work surface.

Please protect fine furniture surfaces to avoid scratches or stains.

Raise the telescopic thread guide to its highest position. (Figure 4) You will find that the shaft can be

rotated left and right. Do so at each stopper level until each section '1clicks" into locked position.

Place the foot control on the floor under the sewing table. First plug the terminal into the machine, then

insert the plug into a wall outlet. The on/off sw¡tch is located on the lower right side of the machine.

Make sure power is always off when the machine is not in use. (Figure 5)

To open the front cover. place your thumb into the indentation at the lower right corner and slide the

cover to the right. Then rotate the cover forward to provide access to the loopers, knives and thread guides.

(Figure 6)

The side cover is opened by gently pushing its front edge toward the left. lt is hinged in back and will

swing open for easy cleaning and for stitch length adjustment (Figure 6)

4-2 Needles

Your Baby Lock serger is fitted with a size 1 1 industrial sewing machine needle (Organ DC x 1F) which is

suitable for all light-to medium-weight fabrics. To sew very heavy fabrics you will want to change to a size

14 needle. (See page 37 for instruction to change needles)

The semi-ballpoint design of the industrial needle allows you to use the same needle for sewing knits as

well as wovens. lts quality and strength are specifically designed for high-speed sewing. An industrial needle

will give perfect stitch formation through many hours of sewing.

Telescopic

thread stand

Stopper

Stopper Figure 4

Front cover @Figure 6

Terminal box

Power/Lamp Switch

Power

supPlY Figure 5

iil,llij\J\i

4-3 Thread

Many types of good quality thread can be used on your Baby Lock serger, but 100% long-staple polyester thread cross-wound on a conewill consistently provide

the best stitch performance. Because the threads pass through many thread guides at a high speed, it is important that the thread be high strength, uniform in

thickness and produce a minimum of lint.

Good quality cotton or cotton-covered polyester threads sew well, though they d'o produce more lint and create the need to clean the machine more frequently.

They work well for overedging and seaming. For narrow rolled edging, this thread may be too weak or loo fuzzy for the desired effect. Poor grades of these threads

can result in frequent fraying and breaking.

Threads of other fiber content and weight may be used as well, especially for decorative effects. Keep in mind their thickness and strength, because these factors

determine the ease w¡th which thread passes through the thread guides, tensions, needles and loopers. For more information on sewing with specialty thread. see

page 34 and 35.

* Cone thread

When using cone thread, place each cone securely over the cone holders on the thread stand of the machine.

You may need to place one hand under the thread while positioning the cone, in order to prevent bending the

stand. These cone holders keep the cone from spinning and allow the thread to feed off evenly.

* Spool thread

Spool caps are provided for use with spool thread. These caps cover any notches or serrated edges on the spool

itself, and allow the thread to feed off evenly. Snap a spool cap into the hole on the top of the thread spool.

Place the thread on the spindle. The cap may cause the thread to be suspended from the top of the spindle.

Do not try to force the cap down onto the spindle itself. (NOTE: lt is not necessary to remove the cone holders

when using spool threads.) (Figure 7)

* Thread nets

The nets can be placed over cones or spools when the thread has a tendency to "drop off" its holder while

sewing. For most threads the nets are not necessary, but they are helpful with nylon, rayon or silk threads.

(Figure 8)

Spool cap

I thread

Cone holder

Figure 7

Cone spool thread Thread net

Figure 8

5 THREADING METHOD A-TYING ON

The fastest and easiest way to thread your Baby Lock serger is to cut off the unwanted thread and

tie its end to the beginning of the new thread, as follows:

1. Clip the existing thread strands just above each cone/spool. (Figure g)

2. Remove the old thread cones and position the new ones on the stand. Make a square knot to tie

each old thread end to its corresponding new thread.

3. Clip the needle thread(s) just above the eye of the needle(s). Attempting to pull the knot through

the eye can bend or break the needle. (Figure 9)

4. Make a few stitches to separate the thread chain and discard the needle thread tails. Gently pull

the looper threads - one at a time - until each knot passes through the entire threading path

of the machine. Snip off the knots and discard the old thread ends.

(HINT: As you pull each thread with your left hand, use your right hand to pull the tension

ring forward slightly, making it easier for the knot to pass through) (Figure 10)

5. Pull the needle thread(s) through in the same manner and use the curved tweezers to rethread

the needle(s).

6. Place all threads under the back of the presser foot, lower the foot and sew a few stitches to

start the chain. (Figure 1 1 )

Figure 9

Figure 1 0

Tension disc

ìl'

Figure 1 1

lf thread breaks or run out, it will be necessary to rethread manually. The thread guides are marked with color coding, and a color-coded thread chart is located

on the backside of the front cover. lt is important that the threadinq be done in the following sequence'

Plabe the first thread on the third spindle of the thread holder, the one colored

green. Beginning with its corresponding eye on the telescopic thread guide, thread

.tt grr.n color-coded guide, including the tension discs and end with the upper

2. Place the next thread on the far-right (blue) spindle and thread in the same

manner, following the blue color-coded thread path and end with the lower looper

(Figure 12)

NOTE: To use the convenient self-threading looper,

turn the handwheel away from you to bring the

looper to its far-lef.t Position'

Hook the thread through guide "4". (Figure 14)

Slide the thread along the left arm of the looper,

catching it in the metal clip. Pull up any slack thread.

Turn the handwheel to bring the looper to the far

right.

Thread the lower looper eye and bring the thread

under the upper looper and under the back of the

presser foot. (Figure 15)

looper. (Figure 12)

NOTE: Be sure to pull each thread securely between

the discs of its tension adjuster. (Figure 13)

Figure 13

Figure 15

AFigure 14

6 THREADING METHOD B.MANUAL THREADING

qS\Y{L

ðs

Figure 12

3. Place thread on the second (yellow) spindle and follow the yellow-colored path,

ending with the right needle. Thread the eye of the needle front to back. (Figure

16)

4. Place thread on the far left (orange) spindle and follow the orange color-coded

path, ending with the left needle. Thread the eye of the needle front to back.

(Figure 16)

Figure 16

NOTE: Each needle thread must catch in its respec-

tive guide and under one side of the thread plate.

(Figure '17)

Figure 17

b. Place all threads under and to the left of the presser foot and make a few stitches

to begin the chain. (Figure 18)

IMPORTANT: lf a looper thread breaks or runs out, while the other threads re-

maln intact, it is necessary to follow this rethreading sequence:

'l . Unthread the eyes of the needles.

2. Rethread the looper.

3. Rethread needle eyes.

lf you forget to unthread/rethread the needle eye, thread will be wrapped around

the lower looper out of sequence and, when you begin to sew, the looper thread will

break. The needles must alwavs be threaded last.

9Figure l8

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