ALAVs Transitional Species Blubber Bot Manuel utilisateur
Part of a family of Transitional Species™,
Blubber Bots are floating DIY robotic species
that navigate autonomously and intelligently.
They playfully interact with their environment,
people and each other.
www.transitionalspecies.com | Assembly document version 1.2 - Oct 15, 2007
1
Blubber Bots are oating DIY robotic species that navigate autonomously and intelligently. Blubber Bots oat, dance,
seek and sing. They are light-seeking hellium-lled balloons that graze the landscape in search of light and cellphone sig-
nals. Designed into the inatable form is a set of light sensors enabling them to seek out the brightest light source.
They are also equipped with a phone asher and can recognize cellphone activity. You can interact with a Blubber Bot by
making a call and waving your phone near it. In response, it will go into a ocking dance or sing you a special tune.
Social and friendly in nature, Blubber Bots like to play. You can invite other Blubber Bots over for a party to watch a
roomful ock and mingle. They propel themselves using helium buoyancy and two directional motors. They are a little
clumsy though and bump into things. Fortunately, Blubber Bots are born with a feeler (bump switch) to help them out
of tricky situations. At a ick of a “feeler”, they back up and head in a new direction.
Not only do they like to play, but they love to sing. Blubber Bots have a unique voice generated from a vibrating motor
and a small piezo speaker attached to its mylar body. They bellow sounds similar to a whale’s song and serenade you
with melodies. When not being played with, they rest while tooting periodic sounds in their sleep, dreaming until they
once again are awakened.
Blubber Bots are part of a family of “Transitional Species,” a body of networked sculptures that interact with their en-
vironment, people and each other. The Blubber Bots are offspring of the Autonomous Light Air Vessels (ALAVs).
www.alavs.com
INTRODUCTION_
_WHAT IS A BLUBBER BOT?
The Blubber Bot has a set of light sensors (eyes) that direct it to graze the landscape in search of the brightest light
source. In brightly lit environments (during the day), the Blubber Bot is in an excited state: It is active and its blue LED
is constantly on. In darker environments (at night) , the Blubber Bot becomes less active, trolling around more slowly
and blinking its blue LED on and off.
The Blubber Bot is equipped with a feeler (bump switch) that allows it to change directions when encountering an
obstacle i.e. people or one another.
The default state of the Blubber Bot is its rest state with the red LED blinking approximately every 7 seconds. After you
complete assembling your Blubber Bot, you can ick the feeler or use your cellphone to wake it up.
You can interact with the Blubber Bot by making a call with a cellphone, placing the phone near the asher. When a
Blubber Bot senses mobile phone activity, it begins to dance and sing, spinning counter-clockwise and playing a song.
A second call causes the Blubber Bot to play a melody and ash its red and blue LEDs in rhythm. If you don’t have a
cellphone or the asher batteries are dead, you can shine a bright light source (i.e. keychain ashlight) at the asher
(at the end of the shrink tube).
If you don’t interact with the Blubber Bot for approximately 7 minutes, it will go into its rest state. It will remain in its
rest state for 30 minutes and then wake again seeking activity and interaction.
_HOW IT WORKS
Disclaimer of Liability
By using this product you expressly waive any claims, causes of action or liability against Jed Berk that arise from your assembly or use of the product in any manner, and is not liable for any direct
or indirect or consequential damages or losses arising therefrom.
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PART LIST & TOOLS_
No. 24
Qty:
helium envelope
1
No. 01
Qty:
IR photocell
3
No. 02
Qty:
phone flasher
1
No. 04
Qty:
DC motor
2
No. 03
Qty:
10 pin header
2.5 (25 pins)
No. 05
Qty:
LED (red & blue)
2
No. 06
Qty:
shrink tube 3/32
1
No. 07
Qty:
shrink tube 1/8
1
No. 08
Qty:
30 gauge wire (white)
1
No. 09
Qty:
white putty
1
No. 10
Qty:
propeller
2
No. 11
Qty:
nylon rivet
8
No. 12
Qty:
nylon washer
8
No. 13
Qty:
paper clip
1
No. 14
Qty:
pom pom
1
No. 15
Qty:
cable tie holder
1
No. 18
Qty:
1.5V 384/SR41/K
(2)
No. 19
Qty:
piano wire (7 inches)
1
No. 17
Qty:
battery holder
1
No. 16
Qty:
piezo speaker
1
No. 20
Qty:
vibrator
1
No. 21
Qty:
cable tie
3
No. 22
Qty:
3V CR123
(1)
NOT INCLUDED
No. 23
Qty:
Sticky Foam Square
2
_MECHANICAL PARTS
3
_ELECTRONIC PCB PARTS
No. S1
Qty:
slider switch
1
No. S2
Qty:
reset switch
1
No. C7
Qty:
capacitor .22µF (224)
1
No. C3
Qty:
capacitor 1µF tantalum
1
No. C2,C6
Qty:
capacitor 22PF (220j)
2
No. C1
Qty:
capacitor 10µF radial
1
No. C4,C5
Qty:
capacitor .1µF (104m)
2
No. Q1
Qty:
transistor 2N7000
1
No. A1
Qty:
Printed Circuit Board
1
No. X1
Qty:
crystal 4mhz
1
No. U3
Qty:
28 pin DIP socket
1
No. U1,U2
Qty:
motor driver LB1630
2
No. U4
Qty:
ATmega168v
1
No. R4,R5
Qty:
resistor 1.5K
2
color code:
( brown, green, red )
No. R7,R8
Qty:
resistor 47K
2
color code:
( yellow, purple, orange )
No. R1,R6
Qty:
resistor 10K
2
color code:
( brown, black, orange )
No. R2,R3
Qty:
resistor 33ohm
2
color code:
( orange, orange, black )
No. 29
Qty:
feeler (bump support)
1
No. 26
Qty:
PCB, motor mounts and battery holder (carriage)
2
No. 27
Qty:
envelope attachment
2
No. 28
Qty:
eyelid
2
TIP
It is highly recommended to inventory the parts in your kit before you start assem-
bly. If anything is missing please contact us.
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_TOOLS YOU NEED
Needle nose pliers
Helium tank
Red marker
Wire stripers (30 gauge setting)
Wire cutters
Double sided Scotch tape
(permanent)
Tape measure or ruler
Soldering iron
Rosin core solder (60/40)
Duct tape
Hot glue gun (OPTIONAL BUT RECOMMENDED)
Tack (INCLUDED)
Scissors
Putty (INCLUDED)
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1. PCB ASSEMBLY_
12 (C6, 22PF)
17 (C1,10uF)
*polarized
20 (U1,LB1630)
*polarized
11 (C2, 22PF)
14 (X1,4mhz)
13 (C7, .22µF (224))
8 (R8,47k)
5 (R4,1.5k)
6 (R5,1.5k)
7 (R7,47k)
10 (C5, 1µF (104m))
9 (C4, .1µF (104m))
3 (R2, 33ohm)
4 (R3,33ohm)
15 (S2)
21 (U2, LB1630)
*polarized
1 (R1, 10k) 2 (R6, 10k)
22 (U3, 20pin)
*polarized
16 (S1)
18 (Q1, 2N7000)
*polarized
19 (C3, 1µF tantalum)
*polarized
23 (VIB, 2 pin header)
24 (SPK, 2 pin header)
25 (REY, 2 pin header)
26 (LEY, 2 pin header)
27 (BUM, 2 pin header)
example
*polarized components must be inserted into the PCB
in the right direction
The circled numbers designate the order the components should be assembled onto the PCB.
28 (FLA, 2 pin header)
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1. Using a pair of needle-nose pliers, bend
the leads of the resistors at a 90º angle.
2. (A) Slip the resistor leads in the through-
holes. (B) Bend the leads on the backside of
the PCB away from each other, securing them
in place for soldering. (C) Solder the leads into
place. (D) Clip the leads after soldering.
3. Radial capacitors are polarized and their
leads MUST be inserted into the appropriate
through-hole in order for the circuit to operate
properly. (A) For capacitor “C1”, insert the
longer lead (the positive) into the through-hole
marked with a “+”.
4. The grey strip should be facing “C1” on
the PCB. It should NOT BE REVERSED.
5. The transistor should be placed in the
same direction as printed on the PCB.
6. Capacitor “C3” is also polarized. Position
the capacitor as pictured above, with the
longer positive lead inserted into the through-
hole closest to transistor “Q1”. The upside
down “K” on the capacitor should be facing
outward toward the edge of the PCB as
pictured. Make sure you can see the “K” from
this view point with the transistor to the left.
7. You may need to bend the leads of the
motor driver chips so they t into the through-
holes on the PCB. Make sure you place both
of the these chips with the circle on top facing
each other.
8. You can use the putty to hold components
in place while you solder.
9. Using needle-nose pliers, grip and gently
snap off the header pins into pairs.
_TIPS AND TRICKS
K
7
10. Look for the PCB locations marked
“VIB”, “SPK”, “REY”, “LEY”, and “BUM”. (A)
Starting with the through-hole marked “VIB,”
insert a pin header from the back side of the
PCB. (B) Repeat for the rest of the locations.
The “SPK” and “LEY” should have the header
pins on the front side of the PCB. (C) “FLA”
is located on the opposite end of the PCB. It
should be inserted and soldered on the front.
11. You will need to bend the leads of the
Atmega168v inwards on both sides to t it
into the DIP socket. Grip the ends of the chip
and gently apply even pressure, bending all
the leads evenly on both sides.
12. Make sure you place both the DIP sock-
et and the Atmega168v chip in the correct
direction on the PCB. Place the DIP socket
and chip with the notch in the same direction
as illustrated on the PCB.
(When looking at the front of the PCB verti-
cally all the notches should be on the right
side.) The Atmega168v chip should be the
last component you insert onto the PCB.
_TIPS AND TRICKS
1.Don’t handle the chips without grounding yourself by touching a
grounded metal appliance.
2. Keep your ngers off the pins, as much as possible.
3. Avoid static electricity producing environments.
4. Use only 60/40 rosin core solder.
5. Use thin solder, such as 0.025” diameter.
6. To conserve energy and save money, you can use a rechargeable
CR123 battery. You can use up to a 3.6V rechargeable battery.
8
2. WIRING SENSORS & ACTUATORS_
_2.1 MOTORS
1. Using wire cutters, cut four 4 1/4” lengths
of wire.
2. Using wire strippers, strip one end of the
wire about 3/4”. Strip the other end about
1/4”. Repeat for three wires.
3. Loop the longer side (3/4”) of the stripped
wire through the motor’s lead.
4.Pinch the looped end of the wire while
twisting the motor a few times. This will
tighten the wire snug to the motor lead.
Repeat this process attaching the remaining
three wires to the leads of each motor.
5.Using a soldering iron, solder all the wires
to the motor’s leads.
Making sure you create a solid joint between
the wires and the leads. The wires should be
securely soldered to the leads.
_2.2 LEDs
1. You should have two LEDs, one red and
one blue. Look for the one marked with red
rst.
NOTE: LEDS ARE POLARIZED WHICH MEANS THAT
THEY HAVE ONE POSITIVE (THE LONGER LEAD) AND
ONE NEGATIVE (THE SHORTER LEAD) SIDE. ANOTHER
WAY OF DISTINGUISHING THE POLARITY IS BY LOOK-
ING AT THE LED PLASTIC HOUSING. THE NEGATIVE
(SHORT) LEAD ALSO HAS A FLATTENED EDGE ON THE
PLASTIC HOUSING.
2. (A) Cut two 11” lengths of wire. (B) Strip 1/2” off
of one end of each wire. (C) Wrap a wire around the
positive lead of the red LED as close to the plastic
housing as possible. (D) Mark the opposite end of
the wire with a red marker. This will later help guide
you in attaching it to the PCB. (E) Wrap the other
wire around the negative lead in the same way. (F)
Solder the wires to the leads. (G) Trim the leads to
3/8” in length.
3. Cut two pieces of shrink tubing just long
enough to shield the metal on each lead.
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